Visiting Bangui, Central African Republic, Just Months After Being Under Siege from Rebels

May 2021: A Visit to the Central African Republic

Curiosity, Chaos, and the Allure of the Unstable

I wanted to visit the Central African Republic (CAR) to see for myself whether it was as dysfunctional and volatile as its reputation suggested. My fascination with the country began years earlier after watching a documentary about a Danish journalist who, in a bizarre but revealing stunt, hired a pygmy assistant and bought a CAR diplomatic post to Liberia, just to prove how easily diamonds could be smuggled via diplomatic pouches. The audacity of the story captured the wild absurdity of CAR’s reality—and I was hooked.

Wealth Without Stability

A Land of Riches That Serves Everyone but Its People

CAR is rich in natural resources—diamonds, gold, timber—and has a small population, giving it all the ingredients for prosperity. Yet it remains one of the five poorest countries on Earth. The causes are no mystery: corruption, chronic misrule, and foreign interference have plagued the nation since independence.

The most recent chapter in its instability stems from religious conflict, which erupted in 2013 between the Muslim Seleka militias and the mostly Christian anti-Balaka forces. In January 2021, Seleka fighters launched an assault on the capital, Bangui, trying to unseat the newly inaugurated president. The attack failed, repelled by government troops, U.N. peacekeepers, and Russian mercenaries. In exchange, Russia was granted access to lucrative mining concessions.

A Delayed Dream

Two Attempts to Reach Dzanga-Sangha

I had originally planned to visit the Dzanga-Sangha Rainforest Reserve, a remote and wildlife-rich section of the Congo Basin protected by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). Unfortunately, the reserve was still closed due to COVID until the end of the year.

This wasn’t my first attempt. Fourteen years earlier, some friends and I tried to reach Dzanga-Sangha from Cameroon. We hired a motorized pirogue and headed down the Sangha River, only to be caught in a thunderstorm that left us stranded mid-river during a lightning storm when our engine failed. The trip was aborted, and we never reached the park.

Instead, we ended up in a remote CAR village deep in the rainforest, likely one that had never seen foreign visitors before. To our surprise, the entire village welcomed us like rockstars, cheering, smiling, and showing us around. It was one of the most unexpected and heartwarming encounters I’ve ever had.

A Fragile Calm in Bangui

Planning with Security in Mind

Now, years later, I had a second chance to enter CAR—this time to explore the capital, Bangui. Though it was relatively calm at the time, I knew better than to take that for granted. The CAR remains one of the world’s most volatile countries, where sporadic fighting can break out at any moment. And even in the absence of war, corrupt police and military officials can pose as much danger to travelers as rebel groups.

With that in mind, security was our top priority for the trip. Every move had to be calculated, with contingency plans and reliable local contacts in place.

Random village along the Sangha River that my friends and I visited in 2007

Map of CAR

U.N Troops standing guard in Bangui. 

A Country of Contradictions, Starting with the Visa

Bureaucracy or Guesswork?

The disorderly nature of the Central African Republic revealed itself even before I arrived. Trying to determine whether a visa was required felt like navigating a maze of contradiction and rumor.

I called the CAR Embassy in Washington, D.C., and was told unequivocally that a visa was required. Yet, several American travelers I spoke to claimed no visa was necessary—and even shared a “secret” CAR government document that had been circulating among adventurous visitors.

Visa Uncertainty and Last-Minute Fixes

Paperwork as Disordered as the Country Itself

The scribbled-up visa exemption document, dated 2015, looked more like a photocopied high school assignment than an official government memo. It was poorly formatted, riddled with inconsistencies, and certainly didn’t inspire much confidence.

Still, I kept searching. Stories from fellow travelers about airlines refusing boarding, regardless of visa status, kept me on edge. Even getting to CAR felt like navigating a fog of vague rules and conflicting policies—a fitting prelude to the unpredictable journey ahead.

Eventually, I reached out to a CAR-based fixer, who assured me that Americans didn’t need a visa. Still, to play it safe, I had him arrange an immigration approval letter, also known as a “Message-Port”, which cost just $30 USD. It felt like a small price to pay for a bit of extra security and peace of mind.

Day 1 – Into Bangui

Rainforest, Runways, and a City on the Edge

We flew ASKY Airlines on a multi-stop route: Lagos → Lomé → Douala → Bangui. As we neared our final destination, the view from the window revealed an endless expanse of rainforest, stretching to the horizon—lush, green, and untouched.

Eventually, the trees gave way to the outskirts of Bangui, where ramshackle houses were scattered across a chaotic web of dusty roads. From above, the capital looked more like a sprawling, half-forgotten village than a functioning city.

Bangui sits along the Ubangi River, directly across from the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). We arrived just before sunset—thankfully, because the airport lacks functioning runway lights and closes by dark. As we taxied, we passed dozens of aircraft skeletons, rusting and abandoned beside the runway, a grim welcome to one of the world’s most fragile states.

The Ledger Hotel-the kind of place where guests are presumed to be a journalist, NGO, corrupt government official, shady business man dealing blood diamonds or in the security industry

Arrival in Bangui

A Cash-Only Luxury Fortress

To avoid any uncertainty on arrival, I had pre-arranged a driver to meet us at the airport and take us directly to our hotel—The Ledger Hotel, considered the fanciest and most secure hotel in the country. It is also part of a chain of hotels in Central and West Africa, built by ex-Libyan dictator Muammar Gaddafi. 

The Ledger is still Libyan-owned, surrounded by high walls and armed security, catering mostly to diplomats, NGO staff, and the rare adventurous traveler. Despite its upscale reputation, it operated in true Central African fashion—no way to contact them by phone or email, and cash-only payments were accepted. No credit cards, no guarantees—just show up and hope for the best.

Fortunately, we had a reservation through the fixer, and our driver got us there without issue, giving us a first glimpse at the contradictions of Bangui: a city caught between collapse and survival.

Checking In with Clean Cash

A Hotel Stay, the Hard Way

Check-in at the Ledger Hotel turned out to be more complicated than expected. Although we had a reservation, paying was another story. Many of our U.S. dollars were rejected—some for minor creases, others due to “unacceptable” serial numbers. In CAR, only pristine bills are accepted for major transactions, especially in higher-end establishments.

Our goal was to get checked in and meet up with an expat friend who lived in Bangui, all before the city’s strict early evening curfew.

Life Under Curfew

Empty Streets and Russian Messaging

At the time, Bangui was under curfew because rebel militias were known to infiltrate the capital at night, sometimes launching attacks or sowing unrest. The government responded by clearing the streets after dark, claiming it would be easier to spot outsiders and troublemakers. Violators could be arrested—or worse, shot.

Ironically, on the night we arrived, the curfew had been temporarily extended to allow citizens to attend a Russian propaganda film screening at a soccer stadium.

The Russians, now a dominant foreign force in CAR, were investing in “hearts and minds” campaigns, attempting to portray themselves as the stabilizers and protectors of the nation. The message was everywhere—billboards, public messaging, and even free propaganda T-shirts handed out to locals. My expat friend, already savvy to the political landscape, managed to secure one of the shirts for me—a strange but fitting souvenir of modern-day Bangui.

Propaganda shirt the Russians were handing out to Bangui citizens. The shirt depicts a Russian soldier as a valorous angel of death. 

One of the many billboards in Bangui depicting security forces from Russia and France assisting CAR government forces

Street scene in Bangui

Day 2 – Escaping the Streets of Bangui

Caution and a Change of Scenery

The next day, we hired a vehicle and driver to explore outside the city. Based on warnings from my expat friend, who had traveled extensively across Africa, we didn’t linger long in the streets of Bangui. He told me that Bangui was the place where he’d received the most death threats and faced multiple attempted pickpocketings—not a comforting endorsement.

Instead of testing our luck in the capital, we set our sights on a safer and more scenic destination: Boali Falls.

Boali Falls – Beauty, Power, and a Recent Battlefield

Located about 1.5 hours from Bangui, Boali Falls is one of the largest waterfalls in the Central African Republic, and home to a hydroelectric plant that supplies much of the city’s electricity. The drive was surprisingly smooth, with a well-maintained paved road—a rare treat in this part of the world.

While the falls are a natural wonder, they also hold a more recent history. Just a few months earlier, in January, the area was the scene of intense fighting between rebel forces and Russian mercenaries. At the time of our visit, the region had only recently been secured and reopened to travelers. We felt fortunate to arrive during a rare window of calm.

Military truck carrying Russian security forces

Along the Road to Boali

Mercenaries, Militias, and Uneasy Control

As we rumbled along the road, we encountered massive military-grade trucks, packed with Russian mercenary types, armed and stone-faced. It was a surreal but expected sight in today’s CAR, where Russian forces now play a dominant role in securing territory and backing the central government.

The Russians, with their advanced weaponry, military vehicles, drones, and heavy artillery, clearly held the upper hand. In contrast, the rebel forces were scattered and poorly equipped, armed with little more than small arms and the occasional pickup truck. The disparity in firepower was obvious.

A New and Deadly Threat

But while I was in CAR, the rebels began using a weapon that changed the dynamics—IEDs. Crude but effective, these improvised explosive devices had reportedly killed several Russian and CAR soldiers, revealing a new vulnerability in an otherwise one-sided conflict.

In response to mounting casualties, the Russians took drastic action. According to local accounts, they evacuated the main hospital in Bangui, removing all civilian patients to make room for their own wounded. It was a sobering reminder of how deeply entangled foreign forces had become in the country’s internal struggles—and how ordinary citizens often bear the consequences.

Photo of a local man standing before Boali Falls

Boali Falls – A Moment of Calm

Nature in a Nation of Chaos

Boali Falls offered a brief but welcome respite from the tension and unpredictability of the Central African Republic. The rushing water, open sky, and fresh air made it one of the more relaxing moments of the trip—a chance to pause and appreciate the natural beauty CAR still holds, even amid its instability.

The Real Show: Bangui’s Taxi “Brusses”

Organized Chaos on Four Wheels

But if there was one sight in CAR that truly blew us away, it wasn’t a waterfall, monument, or battlefield—it was the country’s legendary shared taxis, known as “taxi brusses.”

These vehicles redefined the concept of “full.” They were packed to the gills—not just inside, but on the roof, bumpers, hood, and even the trunk. In one unforgettable scene, we saw a car speeding down the road with passengers sitting on the windshield, legs spread just wide enough to give the driver a sliver of visibility.

I’ve seen overloaded vehicles all over the world, but nothing quite like this. It was part transportation, part acrobatics, part miracle, and a perfect snapshot of the creative resilience and improvised chaos that defines daily life in CAR.

Taxibruss packed with passengers

Taxibruss packed with passengers

Taxibruss loaded with passengers and cargo. Sadly in impoverished countries like the CAR safety doesn’t sit very high on the priority list 

Never a boring vehicle in CAR

Day 3 – The Final Hurdle/No Covid Test Results

A Last-Minute Surprise at Departure

On the morning of our departure, the Central African Republic delivered one final reminder of just how unpredictable it is.

Our same-day COVID test results never arrived in my email inbox. Without them, we wouldn’t be allowed to board our flight out of the country. I wasn’t too concerned about being positive—we had all tested negative just days earlier in Nigeria. But this was CAR, where logistics and communication operate on their own chaotic timeline—if they operate at all.

And more importantly, there was no way I was going to miss my upcoming Republic of Congo expedition to Lac Télé, a trip I had spent months planning. I was certain we’d find a way out. One way or another, I wasn’t getting stuck in Bangui.

A Creative Exit Strategy

Doing What You Have to Do

In typical CAR fashion, we improvised a solution. With a bit of effort—and some local help—we forged test results using a legitimate-looking template from a friend in Bangui. The document looked official enough to convince airport officials, and we were waved through.

It wasn’t ideal, but in CAR, it was good enough.

In a place where rules are fluid, systems barely function, and bureaucracy is more theater than process, sometimes getting out takes just as much creativity as getting in.