Trying to Flee Covid Shutdowns in Mozambique

November 2021 – A Layover Gone Long in Maputo

When Omicron Changed the Plan

My original plan was simple: a one-night layover in Maputo, Mozambique’s capital, en route from Botswana to Angola. But as was so often the case during the pandemic, Covid—and the newly emerging Omicron variant—had other plans.

Arrival in Maputo

Delays, Visas, and No Negotiating Power

I landed at Maputo’s small airport, where getting my visa on arrival turned out to be more of an ordeal than expected. What had once been an automatic process was now delayed by long deliberation among the immigration staff—another reminder that, during Covid times, nothing could be taken for granted.

Eventually, the visa was granted. But by the time I exited the terminal, I was the last passenger in the airport. Only two taxis remained, leaving me with zero negotiating power and a hefty fare to my hotel.

A Night at the Polana Serena

Colonial Elegance, Modern Disappointment

With just one night in Maputo, I decided to treat myself to something memorable: a room at the Polana Serena Hotel, one of the city’s most historic and luxurious landmarks. Built in 1922 during the Portuguese colonial era, the hotel is a grand piece of architectural heritage, with lush gardens, a sweeping ocean view, and an elegant pool. I was lucky to snag a room at one-third of the usual rate, thanks to the ongoing travel slowdown.

My plan was to enjoy the old-world bar, sip a cocktail, and soak in the hotel’s colonial charm. Instead, my evening took a dramatic turn.

The Email That Changed Everything

Flights Canceled, Borders Closing, and a New Escape Plan

That night, I received an email: my flight to Angola was canceled due to tightening Covid restrictions triggered by Omicron. I stayed up most of the night scrambling to reconfigure my travel plans.

With Angola off the table, I was stuck in a region quickly becoming taboo to the rest of the world. Countries were red-listing southern Africa, borders were closing, and I realized that I needed to exit Mozambique quickly before flights disappeared entirely.

Though part of me wanted to explore more of Mozambique—especially the remote, untouched north—this wasn’t the time for adventure. I needed a way out. My backup plan became the Comoros Islands, a place I’d long wanted to visit and one of the few countries I still hadn’t been to.

Ethiopian Airlines: The Pandemic Lifeline

The World’s New Escape Route

To get there, I turned to Ethiopian Airlines—one of the last reliable international carriers still flying during the pandemic. But I wasn’t alone. Judging by the sudden spike in ticket prices, many travelers were trying the same escape route, using Ethiopian as a launchpad back to Europe or the USA.

The next few days in Mozambique would be a waiting game—not for sightseeing, but for a reasonably priced seat out. It wasn’t what I planned, but in a world shaped by Covid, flexibility was the only constant.

Map of Mozambique

Mozambique: A Land of Beauty and Turbulence

From Colonial Past to Post-War Recovery

Mozambique’s story is one of resilience. The country fell under Portuguese influence in the early 1500s and remained a colony until the 1970s, when a hard-fought war of independence finally brought an end to colonial rule. But victory was bittersweet.

Shortly after independence, the country descended into a brutal civil war, one that lasted from the late 1970s into the early 1990s. During this time, communist and anti-communist factions tore the country apart. By the time peace was reached, thousands had died, and the land was littered with millions of landmines, leaving a long legacy of danger and destruction.

A Country on the Mend—But Still on Edge

In more recent years, violence has returned to the north, where Islamic insurgents have waged attacks in isolated regions. Despite these flare-ups, much of Mozambique remains peaceful and welcoming, particularly in the south and along the coast.

Mozambique is a vast and geographically rich country, blessed with over a thousand miles of stunning Indian Ocean coastline. Dotted with idyllic beaches, remote islands, and coral reefs, it also boasts countless national parks and wildlife reserves—many of which are just beginning to recover from decades of conflict.

The country is still finding its footing, but the natural beauty and cultural depth here are undeniable—and for the adventurous traveler, Mozambique offers something truly rare.

The lobby

A Luxurious Hotel, A Restless Mind

Beauty Overshadowed by Uncertainty

While I genuinely enjoyed the ambiance of the Polana Serena Hotel—its colonial elegance, ocean views, and serene gardens—I never truly got to relax.

Instead of unwinding by the pool or exploring more of Maputo, I spent most of my time glued to news updates, checking border restrictions, and trying to stay one step ahead of constantly shifting Covid regulations.

It was hard to appreciate the moment when the uncertainty of travel during a global pandemic hung over everything like a shadow. Despite being in one of Mozambique’s most luxurious hotels, I felt restless, distracted, and unable to immerse myself fully in the experience.

The Bar

Grand Pool

Discovering Maputo

A City That Defied Expectations

I arrived in Maputo expecting a city that would be gritty, chaotic, and unwelcoming. Instead, I found myself pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed it.

Situated on the Indian Ocean, Maputo has a laid-back coastal vibe that reminded me of some of Brazil’s lesser-known gems—Maceió, Fortaleza—where life flows at its own rhythm, and the scent of salt lingers in the air. Despite its political scars and urban sprawl, Maputo has pockets of beauty and charm that are easy to overlook but rewarding to those who linger.

Layers of Architecture and Memory

From Portuguese Grandeur to North Korean Bronze

What fascinated me most was the blend of architectural styles: colonial Portuguese villas, art deco buildings, and stark Communist-era brutalist structures—a visual timeline of Mozambique’s layered past.

The streets are dotted with revolutionary murals, graffiti, and an abundance of monuments to the country’s post-independence leaders. In one particularly surreal twist, I learned that many of these bronze statues were commissioned from North Korea, whose government has a niche business in manufacturing oversized, grandiose sculptures—an unexpected intersection of African nationalism and Korean propaganda artistry.

A Darker Undercurrent

Navigating Police Corruption and Finding a Guide

Of course, Maputo has its shadows. Other travelers warned me of rampant police corruption—including shakedowns, and even occasional reports of police kidnappings. I remained extremely cautious, particularly when moving around on foot or engaging with anyone in uniform.

Thankfully, I met Alfonzo, a hotel taxi driver who became both a friend and an unofficial guide. With his help, I was able to explore the city more confidently—and even ventured north to Macaneta Beach, a stunning, seemingly endless stretch of sand about an hour from Maputo. His presence likely shielded me from trouble, and made my short time in Mozambique far more enjoyable than I’d imagined.

Old Portuguese red Light District

A Walk on the Gritty Side

Beers, Stories, and a Forgotten Quarter

On my last day in Maputo, Alfonzo and I explored the city together, diving deeper into its lesser-seen corners. We ended up at a few bars in what was once the Portuguese colonial red-light district—a neighborhood now faded and rough around the edges, but still full of character.

We sipped beers while listening to obscure 80s tracks rattling through old speakers. The atmosphere was surreal—flickering lights, cracked tiles, and a crowd that told stories with every glance. We struck up conversations with a few working women, who were surprisingly open, offering glimpses into their lives and the daily realities of navigating a city that’s both vibrant and unforgiving.

Curfews and Goodbyes

A Quiet End to a Surprising Stay

By 7 p.m., the Covid curfew kicked in. Like a switch, the city emptied out. Bars shuttered, streets fell silent, and a stillness settled over Maputo.

I returned to the hotel, grateful for the day and the unexpected friendship with Alfonzo. We said our goodbyes, and I reflected on how, despite the uncertainty, anxiety, and changing plans, Maputo had left a real impression—gritty, warm, layered, and deeply human.

The old Market place

Maputo Statue of a Mozambican General who Fought for Independence Against the Portuguese. The statue was constructed in North Korea.

Revolutionary Murals in Maputo

Echoes of the Past

Colonial Beauty, Haunted Legacy

Maputo is full of history, much of it dark, complex, and hauntingly fascinating. Like so much of Africa, its streets carry the weight of colonial exploitation, struggles for independence, and the long shadows of oppression.

One building in particular struck me—a once-beautiful Portuguese colonial-era mansion, now derelict and crumbling, tucked into the fabric of the city like a forgotten relic. With its grand arches, faded façade, and prime location, the mansion looks like the kind of place that could be restored into something incredible. But it remains abandoned and untouched.

The Mansion No One Wants

Haunted by History

Locals avoid it, and no one wants to invest in its renovation. The reason is chilling: the mansion was once used by the Portuguese secret police as a torture and execution site during the colonial era. It’s said that political prisoners were interrogated, brutalized, and killed within its walls.

Today, the mansion is believed to be haunted, its silence carrying the screams of the past. Even in daylight, it holds a palpable tension, as though the building itself remembers too much to ever be at peace.

In many ways, it’s a symbol of Mozambique’s complicated relationship with its history—a striking blend of beauty, pain, and unfinished healing.

Old Portuguese Mansion Converted to Secret Police HQ During War

Old Portuguese Mansion Converted to Secret Police HQ During War

Stones That Still Speak

The Portuguese Castle and the Shadow of Empire

In downtown Maputo stands a formidable relic of Mozambique’s colonial past—a Portuguese castle originally built in the 1700s. Over the centuries, it was razed and rebuilt multiple times, scarred by battles with foreign powers and the tides of shifting empires.

Today, the castle no longer serves a military purpose. Instead, it stands as a somber monument, a reminder to future generations of the horrors and cruelty of colonial rule.

Inside the castle lies an elaborately carved coffin containing the remains of the last dynastic king of Mozambique, who was kidnapped by the Portuguese in the 1800s. In a bitter twist of irony, just outside his tomb stands a statue of the Portuguese general who captured him.

The statue was once publicly displayed in a city square, but has since been relocated inside the castle walls. I asked my local friend why it hadn’t simply been destroyed. His answer was powerful:

“It’s kept here so the children will remember what their elders endured—so that it’s never forgotten.”

A Queen and a Snake

Remembering Mozambique’s Role in a Global War

Just a few hundred feet from the castle stands what I found to be the most beautiful statue in Maputo—the one featured in the cover photo of this post.

It’s a striking figure of a queen with a snake coiled around her, a statue built 100 years ago after World War I to commemorate the Mozambicans who died in the conflict. Though often overlooked, WWI reached far beyond Europe’s borders. Its battlefields extended deep into Africa, and Mozambique became caught in the colonial crossfire—its people drafted, exploited, and killed in a war that was never theirs to begin with.

This statue, like so much of Maputo, is layered with beauty and sorrow, pride and pain—a city where the past isn’t buried, but carved in stone for all to see.

Old Portuguese Fort in the middle of downtown Maputo

Statue of a Portuguese general who fought for Portugal during the revolution. 

70s era church

Revolutionary Murals in Maputo

A Final Day by the Sea

Escaping the City to Macaneta Beach

On my last full day in Mozambique, Alfonzo—my ever-reliable driver and now friend—took me to Macaneta Beach, a wide, undeveloped stretch of coastline an hour north of Maputo. After the stress of navigating travel disruptions and pandemic uncertainties, it was the perfect way to unwind.

Slowing Down, Finally

Time to Breathe

I’m not usually one to linger on beaches—I prefer movement, exploration, and discovery. But on this day, I did something rare for me: I stayed still. I walked the shore, listened to the waves, and let the hours pass without an agenda.

For a moment, the weight of canceled flights, closed borders, and global chaos faded with the tide. Macaneta offered exactly what I hadn’t realized I needed—stillness, simplicity, and space to reflect.

Macaneta Beach

Fishing Boats

Unexpected Companions on an Empty Shore

Solitude, a Nap, and a Surprise Encounter

As I sat on Macaneta Beach, the scene was surreal—miles of coastline, untouched and completely deserted. I was the only person in sight, and for once, I allowed myself to do something I rarely do while traveling: relax and take a nap.

I closed my eyes for what must have been barely a minute when I suddenly felt something licking my head. Alarmed, I shot up—only to find two small wiener dogs staring at me with tails wagging and tongues out.

My New Pack

Crabs, Loyalty, and Beach Towels

Apparently, I had just been adopted. For the rest of the afternoon, these two little dogs followed me everywhere, refusing to leave my side. They chased crabs up and down the beach, proudly presenting their catches by dropping them onto my beach towel like prized offerings to their new pack leader.

The moment was absurd and oddly heartwarming—there I was, on a remote beach in Mozambique, napping under the sun and being guarded by two crab-hunting dachshunds.

The Perfect Ending

Mozambique at Its Most Unexpected

It wasn’t how I imagined my time in Mozambique would end—but in some ways, it was perfect. That day on Macaneta Beach, with the sea breeze, the empty horizon, and my two unlikely companions, offered me a rare kind of peace: unexpected, lighthearted, and deeply memorable.

Me relaxing on beach

One of my little canine friends

Macaneta Beach Today

Untouched Shores and Wild Beauty

Macaneta Beach is still, for now, a place of raw natural beauty—a stretch of untamed coastline where sand dunes, scrub jungle, and the occasional troop of wild monkeys line the shore. Aside from a few laid-back beach lodges, the area remains largely undeveloped, giving it an atmosphere that feels quiet, remote, and rare in today’s world.

The Future Is Already on the Way

Development and the End of Solitude

But change is coming. The 4WD track that once kept Macaneta isolated is now being paved, and large-scale development projects are already underway. Plans for new hotels, golf courses, and resorts threaten to transform this sleepy, unspoiled paradise into just another packaged beach destination.

As I sat on the sand that day—alone, surrounded by dunes, sea breeze, and wild dogs turned companions—I felt lucky to see Macaneta as it still is. But I also knew it was likely a farewell glimpse of a vanishing version of the place.

Whatever replaces it, I doubt it will have quite the same magic.

My canine friends leading me through the monkey forest