November 2022: In early 2022, I first learned about the Cave of the Tayos when my brother, Jesse, tagged me in a Facebook post from Outdoor Magazine with the message, “Let’s do this.” According to the article, the cave is not only filled with tarantulas, scorpions, and screaming oil birds but is also rumored to contain an ancient golden library—tablets engraved with alien-like symbols that may hold the secrets to the origins of civilization. Even Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon, was lured to the cave on an expedition in 1976 in pursuit of its legends.

I initially worried that reaching the cave would be too expensive and dangerous, but I was determined to try. So, I responded to Jesse: “Yes, let’s do it.” My motivation only grew stronger when strangers in the Facebook forum chimed in, insisting the trip was impossible and that we would die if we attempted it. My only response to the naysayers was, “I’ll tell you how it was when we return.” And I made sure to follow through on that promise.

About Tayos Cave

In the 1960s and ’70s, the southeastern region of Ecuador remained an uncharted expanse of dense rainforest. Even today, it remains wild, but during that era, it was a place where few outsiders dared to venture. The land belongs to the Shuar people, a warrior-like tribe known for resisting both Incan and Spanish invasions. Historically, the Shuar were feared for their headhunting practices, cannibalism, and the ritual of keeping shrunken heads as war trophies.

Deep in the Shuar jungle, where the Amazon rainforest meets the foothills of the Andes, lies the Cave of Tayos—an extensive underground network of tunnels that remains largely unexplored. For generations, the Shuar have descended into the cave using vine ladders to hunt tayos, or oil birds. The cave has always been sacred to them, believed to be home to the spirits of giants.

The outside world first became aware of the cave through Father Crespi, a priest who lived among the Shuar and earned their trust. Over time, they gifted him a collection of mysterious artifacts—some made of gold and engraved with symbols resembling pyramids, Mesopotamian-like writings, and designs similar to ancient artifacts found in the Middle East and North Africa. Some believed these artifacts came from the depths of Tayos Cave. Unfortunately, Crespi’s collection was stolen before archaeologists could properly study it.

In the 1960s, Hungarian-Argentine explorer Juan Moritz, inspired by Crespi’s artifacts, ventured deep into the Shuar jungle in search of their origin. He claimed to have discovered the cave and descended into its depths, where he allegedly found tunnels carved by unknown methods, crystal sarcophagi containing the skeletons of giants, and a vast library of golden books inscribed with alien-like symbols. The books, however, were too heavy to remove, and his expedition lacked cameras to document them.

Upon returning, Moritz pleaded with the Ecuadorian government for permission to lead an official expedition to retrieve the golden library. He was granted access and returned with the Ecuadorian military, but the expedition ran out of funding before it could locate the library. Frustrated, Moritz refused to cooperate with future expeditions, and he never returned to the cave.

For a decade, Tayos Cave was largely forgotten until Scottish treasure hunter Stan Hall traveled to Ecuador to examine Father Crespi’s remaining artifacts. Convinced of their significance, Hall launched one of the largest cave expeditions in history in 1976, enlisting the Ecuadorian military and none other than Neil Armstrong, the first man to walk on the moon. Some speculate that Armstrong, who was rumored to have witnessed something unexplainable on the lunar surface, was drawn to the cave by its alleged connection to extraterrestrial mysteries.

The Hall expedition explored the cave and uncovered ancient artifacts, including evidence of a sophisticated prehistoric culture. However, no golden library or crystal sarcophagi were found. The local Shuar insisted that the explorers had entered the cave from the wrong entrance and that the true location of the metal library remained a guarded secret. Despite the expedition’s failure to find the fabled treasure, Armstrong later remarked that his time in Tayos Cave rivaled his experience on the moon.

Hall remained determined to locate the library and even convinced Armstrong to join a second expedition. However, the mission was ultimately canceled due to political instability in Ecuador.

With time, the mystery of the golden library seemed destined to fade into legend. Moritz and other key figures who had claimed knowledge of the cave’s secrets passed away. Another man, who once claimed to have inscribed his name onto one of the metal books, insisted that the true entrance was in a different location. He was collaborating with Hall to pinpoint its whereabouts when he was mysteriously murdered before revealing any substantial information.

Subsequent expeditions have continued to explore the cave, but none have uncovered evidence of the golden library. Geologists now assert that the cave’s tunnels were naturally formed rather than artificially carved by unknown forces. As scientific interest in the cave shifted from its supposed alien origins to its ecological and archaeological significance, the legends of extraterrestrial artifacts faded into the background.

Despite its sacred status, the Shuar have recently allowed limited tourist expeditions into the cave as a means of generating income. However, Tayos Cave has not become a mainstream attraction, and only a handful of visitors enter each year. Many Shuar remain uneasy about outsiders disturbing the cave, believing their presence has angered its spirits. For now, access to the cave is permitted—but whether it will remain open, or if its fabled treasures will ever be found, remains uncertain.

The Cave of Tayos is located near the border of Peru where the Amazon rainforest meets the foothills of the Andes. 

Getting There

My search for information about the Cave of the Tayos yielded little beyond scientific expeditions and articles about aliens. While I had read that tourists could now visit the cave, concrete details were scarce. To navigate this uncertainty, I reached out to Robert Vaca, owner of Amazon Tours, who had previously organized my trip to visit the Huaorani Tribe in Yasuni National Park. Well-connected with Ecuador’s Indigenous cultures, I hoped he could help make the expedition a reality.

After a month, Robert confirmed that the trip was possible. He had secured contacts who coordinated with the Shuar and could guide us into the cave. Over the next six months, we finalized the logistics, including costs and travel details. Our expedition team would consist of an Ecuadorian climbing expert, a sergeant in the Ecuadorian Special Forces, a soldier trained in jungle medicine, a cook, and a Shuar guide.

From Quito, we would travel overland to Macas, a gold-mining town near the Peruvian border, where we’d meet our team. From there, we’d drive deeper into the jungle along a newly paved road, constructed to secure Ecuador’s border with Peru—a region contested in a short war during the 1980s due to its oil and mineral wealth.

Next, we’d take a Shuar boat to a remote village accessible only by river, then trek four to five hours uphill through dense, muddy rainforest to reach the cave entrance. The cave has only two known entrances, both requiring a rope descent into a deep pit. Our plan was to spend two nights camping and exploring inside before retracing our route back.

To begin the journey, I flew into Quito, Ecuador’s capital, perched high in the Andes at 9,000 feet, where I met my travel companions, Wes and Jimmie. From there, we set off toward Macas, ready to embark on the adventure.

Quito Old Town/view of largest neo-Gothic church in the world built in the 1800’s-Basilica of the National Vow

My guesthouse, an old Spanish home dating back to the 1700’s also sits on top of Spanish Inquisition tunnels where prisoners were tortured and executed, which is now the location where guests eat breakfast in mornings. 

The Amazon Rainforest Meets the Andes

After a long eight-hour drive that took us over a mountain pass at 11,500 feet, past the towering 20,000-foot snowcapped Cotopaxi—one of the world’s highest active volcanoes—and through a series of winding mountain tunnels, we finally arrived in Macas. My brother and his girlfriend were already there, staying in a house they had rented from a local family on the outskirts of town.

That evening, we met our guide, Sergeant Yaco, along with the rest of our caving crew. Together, we sorted through our expedition gear—tents, sleeping bags, cave lights, food, and mud boots—while discussing the details of the journey ahead. Afterward, we celebrated my brother’s 40th birthday with dinner, cake, and a few well-earned beers for making it this far in life.

The next morning, we piled into a van for a two-hour drive into the dense jungle of Puerto Yukianza, a hilly, rainforest-covered region. We knew we had officially entered the Amazon when we stopped at a small roadside shop to use the restroom, and a live vampire bat nearly dropped onto my brother’s head.

That morning, heavy rain poured down relentlessly, leaving me worried that we’d be trekking through deep mud. But as we reached Puerto Yukianza, the skies cleared, and the rain stopped—a stroke of luck. There, we boarded a small open-top boat operated by the Shuar government, used primarily to transport Shuar villagers to their remote jungle settlements, accessible only by river.

View of Namangosa River, where we caught our boat

Lexie Overlooking the Namangosa River

We were given life jackets before boarding, and it quickly became clear why. As we set off onto the river, raging rapids—fueled by the region’s relentless rains—pounded against our small boat. It was obvious that one wrong move by the operator could easily capsize us.

For the next 30 minutes, we traveled down the Namangosa, Zamora, and Santiago Rivers, navigating the turbulent waters while dropping off various Shuar passengers on remote riverbanks. Strangely, there were no visible signs of villages nearby—just endless jungle. Along the way, we passed deep rainforests and towering cliffs where roaring waterfalls crashed down into the river, a breathtaking yet humbling reminder of the raw power of the Amazon.

The Shuar public ferry boat

Us traveling down river in the boat

Then it was our turn to be dropped off. As we stepped onto the riverbank, we were greeted by our Shuar guide, Alfonzo. From there, we began our ascent—straight up a steep, muddy jungle trail leading to a remote Shuar village. The air was thick with humidity, and within minutes, sweat poured from my skin, soaking my clothes. The relentless heat and the demanding climb made every step a challenge, but the thrill of venturing deeper into the Amazon kept us moving forward.

Jungle clad hills we hiked through

About the Shuar Indians

After a grueling hour-long hike up the steep jungle trail, we passed a Shuar graveyard. Unlike Western cemeteries, the bodies here were buried directly in the earth without coffins, placed in family plots with no visible markers to identify individuals. The rainforest surrounding us remained pristine, with only a few clearings and little evidence of agriculture.

Arriving at the Shuar village, we found a small cluster of huts where a few children played in an open field. Though the Shuar now wear modern clothing and hairstyles, their way of life remains deeply rooted in tradition. They practice subsistence farming and live in close harmony with the rainforest. With the arrival of Christianity, the Shuar abandoned their once-infamous customs of headhunting and shrinking heads. However, their reputation as warriors endures, and they are highly regarded for their jungle combat skills, often serving in the military. Despite converting to Christianity, many Shuar have blended their new faith with traditional animistic beliefs, continuing to honor the spirits of the land.

As the traditional guardians of the cave, not all Shuar approve of outsiders being led into its depths for tourism. While we saw no overt signs of resentment, we also encountered very few villagers—only a few dozen people lived there, and most kept out of sight. However, I had read reports of past expeditions where cavers, upon exiting the cave, were met by furious Shuar women who whipped them with vines, despite having guides and permission to enter.

After resting in the village for an hour and eating lunch, we set off on the next leg of our journey—a grueling 3–4-hour hike deeper into the rainforest, climbing even higher toward the cave entrance.

Shuar village with a recent installation of electrical powerlines

Our Shuar guide, Alfonzo showing us cannibal tools he found inside the cave

A rickety Suspension bridge missing some of its wooden boards hanging 100′ above the river below that swung as we crossed

Descent into Tayos Cave

We reached the cave in the early afternoon, drenched in sweat and utterly exhausted. But there was no time to rest—before us lay our next challenge: a nearly 200-foot descent by rope into the gaping, dark pit. From within, an eerie chorus of shrieks echoed up toward us, sounding like tormented souls trapped in the abyss. In reality, these were the cries of the Tayos birds, the cave’s elusive winged inhabitants.

We suited up in harnesses and helmets, securing our packs for the descent. Lexie volunteered to go first, followed by my brother, then the rest of us one by one, vanishing into the darkness below.

Even though I had rappelled into caves before—in Mexico and elsewhere—the first step off the cliff is always the hardest. Letting go of solid ground and trusting a single rope to hold your life in the balance is a test of both nerve and faith.

I leaned back to begin my descent, but my pack, tied to the rope below me, became tangled. I spun awkwardly, flipping sideways, momentarily losing control. The guide yelled for me to reposition the rope between my legs. I quickly adjusted, and my balance was restored. From there, I was able to sit back and take in the surreal experience—the slow, controlled drop into the depths of the Earth, the shrill cries of the birds echoing around me, the immense limestone walls swallowing the last glimmers of daylight.

By the time my feet touched the cave floor, I was in an entirely different world. The sunlight above was nothing more than a distant pinprick, and all around me, massive rock formations stretched upward like the walls of an ancient cathedral. The air was thick, damp, and filled with the sounds of unseen creatures. The descent was over—but our true adventure had just begun.

My brother, Jesse before his descent 

Jesse descending into the cave

Jesse descending to Tayos Cave

View of the descent from the bottom of the cave

View of the descent from the bottom of the cave

Creatures of the Underworld

Once at the bottom of the cave, we had entered an entirely different world—one where we were at the mercy of the creatures that thrived in the darkness. And it quickly became clear that there were many.

Like most cave ecosystems, life here revolved around a cycle of decay and predation. The Tayos birds roosted in the high ceilings, and their droppings accumulated on the cave floor, forming thick layers of guano. This nutrient-rich waste provided food for an army of bottom feeders—cockroaches, beetles, and cave crickets—which in turn attracted predators. Massive tarantulas, whip scorpions, centipedes, and various venomous spiders lurked in the crevices. We didn’t see any snakes, but with so many birds as potential prey, we had no doubt they were there, watching from the shadows.

For the first hour of our journey deeper into the cave, we trudged through ankle-deep guano, stirring up swarms of insects with every step. Cockroaches scattered beneath our lights, while spiders and scorpions clung to the damp rock walls. The tarantulas and whip scorpions were massive and menacing, but their bites, while painful, weren’t lethal. The smaller scorpions and certain spiders, however, carried venom that could cause serious harm—something we desperately wanted to avoid. A medical evacuation from deep within the cave, especially at night, would be nearly impossible.

To protect ourselves, we wore thick mud boots, long pants, and gloves. One crucial rule was drilled into us: never place your hand, foot, or backside on a rock until you shine your flashlight on it first. That rule saved us more than once.

At one point, someone sat down on a rock near the makeshift toilet, only to jump up when a scorpion scurried away inches from their leg. Later, I instinctively placed my hand down for support while adjusting my camera, only to spot a venomous scorpion inches away, poised and ready to strike. These encounters were stark reminders that in this cave, even the smallest mistake could have painful consequences.

Tayos or oil bird that live on ledge along the walls of the cave

Giant whip scorpions which are pretty much huge spiders

Posion dart frog found at the bottom of the descent. We were very careful not to touch this little guy, whose venom from his skin can potentially pass through human skin or from skin via amucous membrane causing instant death 

Transparent giant cave cockroach. These cockroaches have little pigment since they live in darkness and their internal organs are visible

Giant Goliath Tarantula size of my hand with blue limbs. These guys were massive but hard to pohotgraph since they usually escaped to their burrows when detecting us

Scorpion-this is maybe the most venemous creature in the cave and the most dangerous

Cave Spider

Introduction to Tayos Cave

We had about an hour of hiking through the cave before reaching our campsite, which required a 20-foot rope descent. As we navigated deeper, it became clear why some explorers believed the cave had been forged by giant machines. The flat ceilings, meeting the walls at perfect right angles, gave an eerie, unnatural appearance—as if the cave had been sculpted by human hands. But geologists who have studied the formation agree that these features are entirely natural, shaped by the slow but powerful forces of erosion over time.

Every step required careful attention. The uneven terrain of boulders and loose rocks made a single misstep potentially dangerous—an ankle sprain or worse could be disastrous so far underground. The cave was humid, dusty, and muddy, and within minutes, we were drenched in sweat and covered in grime.

We inspected every handhold carefully before gripping it, wary of the creatures lurking in the shadows. Fortunately, most insects scurried away from our lights, retreating into the darkness. But the thought of blindly reaching for a ledge only to grab a hidden scorpion or spider kept us on edge. The cave demanded absolute focus, and as we pressed forward, the air grew heavier, the silence broken only by the distant echoes of dripping water and the occasional rustling of unseen creatures.

Wes Looking into the Depths of the Cave

Rapelling a 20′ wall on the way to our campsite

Our Campsite in the Cave

Our campsite was a flat expanse of dusty rock in the middle of a vast, pitch-black cavern with a towering ceiling. Without our flashlights, the darkness was absolute, swallowing everything around us. The Tayos birds, perched on ledges high above, voiced their disapproval with constant squawking, their eerie calls echoing through the chamber.

To shield ourselves from the countless insects scuttling across the ground, we laid down a plastic tarp before setting up our tents, creating a thin but reassuring barrier. With no chairs, we sat on nearby rocks to rest, often sharing space with scorpions and spiders. Thankfully, an unspoken truce seemed to exist—most of the time, they stayed on their side of the rock, and we stayed on ours.

About 20 minutes deeper into the cave was our only source of water—a small trickle seeping from the ceiling above, forming a tiny waterfall just large enough for us to bathe in and collect drinking water. Though the limestone naturally filtered the water, we took no chances and purified it before drinking. The trek to the washing area was no easy feat, and by the time I returned to camp after rinsing off, I was already drenched in sweat again.

On one occasion, I made the return trip alone, assuming our camp was just around the corner, only to take a wrong turn. I soon found myself in a maze of treacherous boulders, each step leading me deeper into unfamiliar terrain. Realizing my mistake, I retraced my steps, heart pounding as I searched for familiar landmarks. When I finally stumbled back into camp, relieved but exhausted, I discovered Jimmie and Wes had made the same mistake—getting lost in the very same area before eventually finding their way back.

Our campsite

Jesse and Lexi at our campsite

To protect the delicate cave ecosystem, the Shuar had set up a portable wooden toilet a few hundred yards from our campsite, strategically placed in an area where mounds of guano covered the ground. This location was chosen because of the abundance of scavenging insects, which rapidly decomposed any organic material, including human waste. After our trip, the toilet would be moved a few feet away, and the waste would be buried with a nearby shovel, allowing it to break down naturally under the thick layer of guano.

To say that this area was unpleasant would be an understatement. Giant venomous purple centipedes scuttled across the damp ground, a scorpion had taken up residence on the toilet seat, and the earth itself seemed to pulse with the movement of countless feeding cockroaches. This was not a place to linger. Business was conducted swiftly and with extreme vigilance—one wrong move, and you’d have more to worry about than just the smell.

The area where our bathroom was in a guano pile that the oil seeds discarded from Tayos birds are germinating into small stalks that only grow a few feet tall. 

Our toilet, a small block places over the guano piles to help keep the cave clean. A scorpion on the toilet is a reminder to always shine your flash light before sitting or touching

View of where the toilet area is located from our tent. It is probably the most adventerous toilet experience on Earth. 

Next to our tents was the dining area, where our cook prepared our meals. Despite being deep underground in the heart of the jungle, this spot was surprisingly welcoming, illuminated by candlelight and accompanied by music from a small radio. After long, exhausting days of hiking and climbing through the cave, we eagerly gathered here, finding a small sense of comfort in the flickering light and familiar sounds.

Our meals were simple but hearty—plates of pasta, potatoes, and other starchy, energy-packed dishes that we devoured without hesitation. The long days of physical exertion made every bite taste better than it probably was. To top it off, we shared sips of strong rum.

Our campsite and dining area

We were shocked to spot a possum near our dining area, its beady eyes reflecting the glow of our flashlights. I never expected to see a mammal this deep inside the cave, but there it was, cautiously scurrying across the rocks. It didn’t seem afraid of us, just wary, as if it knew this place better than we did.

We figured it was likely after the Tayos bird eggs, sneaking through the darkness to raid nests hidden along the cave walls. It was a strange sight—this lone creature surviving in such a harsh, alien world, thriving in a place where few mammals besides bats dared to venture.

Possum by our campsite

Night in the Cave

Sleeping in a cave is not for everyone, and it quickly became clear why. The ground was hard, and without sleeping pads, we had no comfort to cushion the rough, jagged rocks beneath us. I used my sweaty backpack as a makeshift pillow and slept on top of my sleeping bag since the temperature in the cave remained warm, except during the early morning hours when it would dip low enough to force me into the bag for warmth. The total absence of natural light only added to the discomfort—no sunrise, no sunset, not even stars, just endless, inescapable darkness.

Then there were the Tayos birds. Their shrieking calls filled the cave throughout the night, a sound so eerie it was best described by one traveler as “demons murdering babies.” The birds nested all around our campsite, and some even left the cave at night to harvest oil nuts, which they’d bring back to consume. Their constant presence and noise were a source of frustration and disorientation.

Lying awake for most of the night, I started to study the different calls of the birds. They weren’t all the same. There was one call that sounded almost like an annoyance directed at us, perhaps at our flashlights disturbing the darkness. Another call was used for echolocation, as they flapped their wings loudly to navigate the pitch-black cave. Tayos birds are unique in that they are the only fruit-eating, nocturnal birds known to use echolocation. And then, in the dead of night, there was a sound so strange it almost felt like a giant Pterodactyl was swooping through the cave. Needless to say, sleep was elusive during our time in the cave, as the eerie sounds and constant disturbance from the birds made rest nearly impossible.

Sounds of night in the cave from our tents

Venturing Deeper into the Cave

The next morning, we had breakfast, gathered our gear, and set off with our crew to continue exploring the cave. While only 5 kilometers of caverns were known, many believed this was just a small section of a much larger cave system that stretched far beyond what had been discovered. Our guide set one key rule for the day: “Don’t go off alone anywhere and stay together.” This was especially crucial in a cave as vast as this one. If someone were to fall, hit their head and lose consciousness, or get lost, it would be easy to disappear in a place like this, where every tunnel and passage looked the same.

We began the day’s journey by hiking to the second entrance of the cave, a massive pit with a 200-foot drop from the jungle above. Hundreds of Tayos birds roosted along the steep walls of the pit, their shrieks echoing through the cavern. Our guide explained that no one enters the cave from this entrance to avoid disturbing the birds, which are sensitive to human activity. This area was also significant in the history of cave exploration. It was here that the Stan Hall expedition uncovered ancient artifacts, which they believed came from a burial area beneath where a beam of sunlight strikes the ground.  

My brother standing in the 2nd cave Entrance. Angry Taos birds shriek in the background

My brother Jesse and I on another one of our many adventures

Many of the cave rocks appeared to be carved in blocks some geometrical symmetrical

Jimmie looking into a cave shaft

For the most part, we didn’t have to crawl into small spaces, but there were a few occasions when we had to squeeze through tight gaps between boulders. Fortunately, these areas were free of Tayos birds, so there were fewer insects to contend with. The absence of the birds made those tight squeezes a bit more bearable, as we could move more freely without having to worry about disturbing the creatures around us. However, it was still a bit unnerving at times, with the tight spaces and the sense of being deep within the cave’s dark, unfamiliar labyrinth.

Jesse ducking down below a ledge 

Stalagtite formations

Lexie posing by some flat smooth rocks

Wes posing on a boulder with his shadow cast behind him like a giant

There are almost 5 km of known cave tunnels, but it’s widely believed that there are many more branches extending into other cave networks connected to Tayos Cave. Every now and then, we’d come across small offshoot tunnels and wonder where they might lead. Some of these tunnels were narrow and uncharted, and while curiosity tugged at us to explore them, the risks of getting lost or trapped made it clear why we stuck to the known paths. It was easy to imagine a vast, hidden underground world just waiting to be discovered in the deeper, unexplored parts of the cave system.

Jesse inspecting a small offshoot tunnel 

Exploring the cave was definitely a highlight of the trip, and knowing that fewer than 500 people, including us, have ever set foot inside makes it feel even more like a rare privilege. It’s not every day you get to experience something so remote, mysterious, and untouched by the vast majority of the world. That sense of exclusivity and connection to something so ancient and unexplored.  

Jesse inspecting some interesting shaped rocks

Some sections of the cave were definitely intense, requiring rope to navigate and some seriously delicate footwork to avoid slipping off a ledge. It felt like every step had to be carefully planned, especially with the sheer drop-offs and uneven surfaces. 

Negotiating a steep section of rock with ropes

After a long stretch of narrow tunnels, slippery rocks, and negotiating ropes, we reached the trophy spot: a waterfall with a small pool of water where we took turns swimming in its cool, refreshing waters. We even spotted cave lobsters and parasitic worms hanging from some of the cave arches, waiting for any insects to cross their path. The worms would ensnare them, then digest them with their digestive juices.

Jesse in the waterfall

I kept thinking how amazing it was that I was walking in the same footsteps of one of the greatest explorers to have ever lived, Neil Armstrong. Then, when we came across the stalagmite where he had taken a photo of himself in the cave, we all took turns posing in the same spot as he did, sharing a moment of connection with the legendary astronaut.

Neil Armstrong posed for a photo in 1976

Me posing next to where Neil Armstrong posed for a photo in 1976 (see left photo)

We stopped to have lunch in one giant amphitheater, a magical room with massive tiered limestone stones stretching back hundreds of feet to the rear of the space. While we were there, in one of the deepest sections of the cave, we decided to turn off our flashlights and immerse ourselves in complete darkness and silence for a few minutes. The silence was so profound, it almost felt like it had a sound of its own, and the darkness was suddenly broken by a small glowing ball of blue light that floated in the air, drifting from one section of the room to the other. It was so faint I thought I might be hallucinating, but others confirmed they saw it too. We never did figure out what it was—likely some kind of bioluminescent bug, though this part of the cave didn’t seem to have any visible insects.

Another strange occurrence happened when my brother, while exploring a random dead-end tunnel we had passed on our way back to camp, discovered something unusual. In a small tarantula hole on the side of a wall, he found a peculiar stone. It was round, polished, and quartz-like, but what made it truly remarkable was that it glowed bright blue in the dark. It looked unlike any other stone we had seen in the cave. Even our guides were perplexed by it.

Jimmie in the amphitheatre

Exploring the amphithetre

Is the Legend of the Cave True

We didn’t find, nor did we expect to find, any signs of a golden metal library of alien books. But if such a treasure exists, it’s possible it could remain hidden somewhere deep within the elaborate network of tunnels in Tayos Cave. I asked our Shuar guide if he believed the library was real, and he said no, but he did share a strange piece of history. His father had been part of the Armstrong expedition in the 70s, and he had witnessed the Ecuadorian military hauling out mysterious artifacts from the cave. If the metal library had been discovered and removed, there has been no sign of it resurfacing, nor has it appeared in any private antique collections or auctions. So, in all likelihood, it never existed, and was simply a tall tale created by Mauritz. But why? Mauritz was a wealthy businessman who didn’t need more money. He seemed genuinely dedicated to proving his hypothesis—that Europeans and Asians were descended from the Americas or that underground tunnels connected the continents. Why would he risk his reputation to return to the cave and be exposed as a fraud if the library didn’t exist? There were also others who claimed to have seen the library, and their stories aligned with each other. This mystery, much like many others, will likely remain unsolved.

But the Tayos Cave holds more than just the story of the metal library. There are other mysteries too, like the mysterious glowing lights seen by some visitors. We, too, saw a floating blue light deep within the cave’s darkness, though it could easily be an insect with bioluminescence. There are still many insects in the cave that remain unknown to scientists. The Shuar believe the cave is inhabited by the spirits of giant cave dwellers, and on one expedition, oversized, human-like footprints were found in a corridor few visitors have access to. Some have even heard strange thundering sounds echoing through the cave. For the Shuar, these are just more signs of the giants they believe live inside the cave.

Exiting the Cave

On our last morning, after spending two nights in the cave, we packed up all of our gear after breakfast and hiked back to the same entrance where we had arrived. Our rope was still in place, ready for us to exit. Our Shuar guide had arranged for a group of Shuar village men to be waiting at the entrance to help pull us out using the rope, so none of us—except the guides—would have to go through the more exhausting manual abseil technique. The guide was the first to go up, making the manual technique look effortless. He was at the top in just 10 minutes. Once on top, the guides set up a pulley system to raise us all out of the cave.

We were lucky that the weather was cooperating—reports from previous expeditions had mentioned tropical downpours flooding the cave, making it impossible to ascend. Thankfully, it wasn’t raining that day. One by one, we were hoisted to the top by a group of five strong Shuar boys, who pulled us up in about 10 minutes each. I was the first to go up, as I was the heaviest, and the guide decided it was better to raise me while the pullers were still feeling strong. As I was pulled up, I bounced up and down, the bungee-like sensation a little unnerving, though it was nothing compared to the experience in the Cave of the Swallows, a cave I had visited a few years back.

Once everyone was up, we made our way back to the Shuar village and the riverbank, where we were picked up by a Shuar water taxi. It took us back to where our van was waiting on the road. We then had one last dinner together, parting ways for different cities on the way back to Quito. Some of us spent our final day in Ecuador before heading home. It was a long, full day—hard to believe I had started it in the depths of a cave and ended it in a hotel in Quito.

Recommendations for the Cave

Here are a few tips I recommend to improve your trip to Tayos Cave:

  • Stay Hydrated and Acclimatized – Make sure you’re well-hydrated and acclimatized before starting the hike. Dehydration can be a killer, and you’ll need to be prepared for the long, grueling uphill, humid hike.
  • Hiking Stick – Bring a hiking stick or walking stick for extra support during the hike.
  • Pack Light – Bring a day pack with just one clean set of clothing for sleeping. Keeping it light will make the trek much easier.
  • Porters or Horses – Porters are available for hire in the Shuar village, or you can request to have a horse carry your gear. This will take some of the load off your back.
  • Mud Boots – Initially, I thought the mud boots would be a hindrance since the trail had mostly dried up. However, inside the cave, where guano and mud can be thick, they proved to be very helpful. Make sure to get boots with good traction to avoid slipping on muddy surfaces.
  • Climbing Gloves – Bring a pair of climbing gloves to help with maneuvering inside the cave. You’ll often be grabbing onto rocks, which may have venomous insects or sharp edges.
  • Earplugs – Bring earplugs to block out the constant screeching of the Tayos birds so that you can sleep at night. The noise can be overwhelming.
  • Sleeping Pad – The rock surface in the cave is hard and uncomfortable, so definitely bring a sleeping pad for a better night’s rest.
  • Caving Lights and Backup Batteries – A good caving light is essential, and don’t forget to bring backup batteries. If you have a way to recharge them, bring a charger. A small flashlight for reading in your tent or walking around camp will also be helpful.
  • Camp Shoes – Bring flip-flops or a comfortable pair of shoes for walking around camp. Be mindful, as scorpions may be present, so always check where you step.
  • Insect Repellent – The sand flies can be horrendous, and most of us were bitten up badly. Be sure to bring a lot of insect repellent to keep them at bay.

These tips will help ensure a safer, more enjoyable adventure in the Tayos Cave.