Saudi Arabia: The Once-Impossible Journey
December 2018: For years, Saudi Arabia topped my list of must-visit destinations, but as a country closed off to tourists, it remained an impossible dream. The birthplace of Islam, home to Mecca, and ruled by the powerful Saud family, the kingdom had long resisted foreign tourism, fearing outside influence that could threaten its religious and political structure. Entry was strictly limited to those with work permits, leaving me searching for any loophole to visit.
In 2014, I tried my luck by booking a Saudi Airlines transit flight through Jeddah, hoping to convince immigration to grant me a short stay. The airline itself was an experience—segregated cabins for families and single men, a countdown to Mecca on every seat monitor, and even a prayer room in the middle of the plane. Despite my hopes, Saudi immigration was firm yet polite—they simply would not let me in. Instead, feeling bad for me and my friend, a kind immigration officer offered us free business lounge passes while we waited for our next flight.
Undeterred, I pursued other options. I attempted to convince the Saudi Embassy in the U.S. to grant me a visa—denied. I looked into obtaining a business visa, but the $1,000 price tag was hard to justify. The closest I came to entry was through an American teacher working at a prestigious school in Saudi Arabia. With the backing of a Saudi dean, I was invited to give a presentation to students about my travels. The proposal went all the way to the highest levels of Saudi immigration, only to be denied at the final stage—a crushing disappointment.
Then, out of nowhere, everything changed.
Under the leadership of Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (MBS), Saudi Arabia made an unexpected shift toward opening up. Following the UAE’s tourism model, MBS sought to rebrand Saudi Arabia, preparing the country for a future beyond oil. As a test run, the kingdom launched a temporary tourist visa program—but only for those attending a Formula One event.
The visa process, once impossible, became laughably easy. Seeing this as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, I immediately booked a ticket—just two weeks after returning from the region on a separate trip. Thankfully, I had an understanding boss.
But I had no intention of attending a Formula One race. Instead, I used the visa to explore Jeddah’s old city, dive into the Red Sea’s coral reefs, and—most importantly—pursue a long-held dream: exploring Saudi Arabia’s remote desert caves.
Through social media, I connected with a group of Saudi rock climbers eager to explore the desert caves east of Riyadh. My friend Jimmie and I funded the vehicle rental, while the Saudis provided ropes, camping gear, and climbing equipment. Before the trip, we researched a long list of potential caves, many of which had little to no online documentation—hidden and almost unknown to foreigners.
This is the story of our five-day journey through Saudi Arabia.
My route in Saudi Arabia
About Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia: Beyond the Stereotypes
I was excited to finally visit Saudi Arabia—not just to see its landscapes and history but to meet its real people and discover its realities firsthand. For years, Saudi Arabia had been portrayed in Western media largely through a negative lens, often associated with terrorism, Wahhabism, and the extravagant lifestyles of its ruling elite.
Of course, there is some truth to these perceptions. Wahhabism, one of the strictest branches of Islam, has long been enforced by religious police, who dictate gender segregation, ensure women wear black abayas covering their faces (sometimes even their eyes), and oversee public executions by beheading, carried out under Sharia law.
The daily rhythm of life is also shaped by Islamic traditions. Saudis are strict about prayer time, which occurs five times a day, beginning before sunrise and ending just before sunset. During these moments, the streets empty, businesses close, and the country briefly pauses as people turn to prayer.
Yet, beneath these well-known aspects of Saudi life, I was eager to look beyond the headlines, experience the true nature of the country, and understand its people, culture, and traditions for myself.
Fast food restaraunt with entrance separated for men and women by a curtain. Most of the pick-ups where of South indian descent workers picking up food for the families they worked for.
Saudi Arabia at a Crossroads: Reform and Control
At the time of my trip, Saudi Arabia was on a new path. Under Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (MBS), the kingdom was shifting from isolation to global engagement, positioning itself as more than just an oil powerhouse. MBS aimed to make Saudi Arabia a regional leader in tourism, technology, and finance, modernizing the country in ways that would have been unthinkable a decade earlier.
One of the most visible reforms was the loosening of strict religious laws, signaling a move toward a more moderate version of Islam. Women were finally granted the right to drive, though during my visit, I didn’t see any behind the wheel. Changes were happening, but at their own pace.
Yet, despite these reforms, MBS remained a ruthless Middle Eastern dictator, consolidating his power with brutal efficiency. His father was king, but to secure his succession, MBS had several royal family members arrested or detained under various charges, eliminating any rivals.
Dissent remained extremely dangerous. Just months before my visit, Saudi journalist and U.S. resident Jamal Khashoggi was lured into the Saudi consulate in Turkey, where he was tortured and murdered by Saudi agents—allegedly under MBS’s direct orders. The incident caused international outrage, but within Saudi Arabia, support for MBS remained strong.
Every Saudi I spoke with admired MBS. In a region where authoritarian rule is the norm, people weren’t focused on human rights abuses—they were simply happy that he was modernizing the country and boosting the economy. For many Saudis, the promise of a better future was enough to overlook his more sinister actions.
King Saud and MBS murals common across the country
Jeddah
A Stop in London Before Jeddah to Pay Respects to the Grave of a Great British Arabian Explorer
I flew into Jeddah via British Airways, with a layover in London—a layover that turned into an unexpected historical detour.
With just enough time, I rushed into the city to visit the grave of Sir Richard Burton, one of the greatest Victorian-era British explorers. Burton was a man of many contradictions—a polyglot, soldier, adventurer, and writer who disguised himself as a Muslim to secretly enter Mecca, a place forbidden to non-Muslims at the time.
Fittingly, his tomb reflects his lifelong fascination with Arabia—it is shaped like a Bedouin tent, an ironic resting place in an English graveyard. Sneaking into the cemetery to pay my respects before catching my next flight to Saudi Arabia felt like a fitting tribute to one of history’s most daring travelers.
Snorkeling the Red Sea & Exploring Old Jeddah
We spent the day snorkeling at a local coral reef, one of the hidden gems of the Red Sea, accessible only via a private beach club. The club was mostly filled with foreign expats, a stark contrast to the conservative image of Saudi Arabia. Here, the atmosphere was more relaxed, with women swimming freely—something rarely seen in public spaces elsewhere in the country.
Afterward, we explored Jeddah’s old town, a UNESCO-listed historic district known for its ancient coral stone houses, narrow alleyways, and intricate wooden balconies. Our cheap guesthouse was located nearby, allowing us to wander the souks and crumbling streets, soaking in the authentic charm of one of Saudi Arabia’s most historic cities.
Jeddah on the Red Sea
Nightfall in Old Jeddah
We explored Jeddah’s old town mostly at night, when the humid air cooled and the narrow streets fell silent, allowing the city’s past to come to life in the flickering shadows. The ancient coral-stone buildings, with their weathered wooden balconies, stood as silent witnesses to centuries of trade, culture, and history.
As we wandered, the hauntingly beautiful call to prayer echoed through the alleyways, the muezzin’s voice carrying across the quiet streets in praise of Allah. The moment was mystical, a reminder of Jeddah’s deep-rooted traditions and its place as the historic gateway to Mecca.
We stayed in a cheap guesthouse in the heart of the old town, fully immersed in the atmosphere of the city’s past, where time seemed to stand still under the glow of dimly lit lanterns.
Muezzin calling Muslims to prayer in the mosque.
Walking the streets of Old Jeddah at night
Old Wooden Windows of Jeddah Old Town
Ornate wooden doors of Jeddah Old Town
Walking the Alleys of Old Jeddah
Jimmie and I wandered for miles through the narrow alleys of Jeddah’s old town, soaking in its historic atmosphere. As we explored, we stumbled upon outdoor gathering areas where groups of African migrants congregated, a sobering reminder of the hidden realities of migration in the Middle East.
Saudi Arabia—and the wider Gulf region—has long been a major migration hub, drawing in thousands of desperate workers from Africa and South Asia, many of whom enter illegally in search of opportunities. But for many, the dream quickly turns into exploitation. Migrants in Saudi Arabia often face harsh working conditions, poor treatment, and little legal protection, a stark contrast to the kingdom’s opulent wealth and modern ambitions.
Walking through these spaces, we saw a different side of Saudi Arabia, one rarely talked about—a place where hope and hardship coexist, hidden in the shadows of a rapidly changing nation.
African migrants playing pool in Jeddah Old Town
African migrants playing outdoor video games in Jeddah
The Magic of Old Jeddah
I loved exploring Old Jeddah, where crumbling wooden facades adorned the centuries-old buildings, some made of stone, others of coral. The most striking feature was the Rawashin—intricately carved wooden lattice balconies that have stood for up to 500 years. Designed to let light in while preserving privacy, these structures allowed the occupants to see outside without being seen, especially by men—an architectural testament to cultural traditions that valued both aesthetics and modesty.
A few Saudi friends I had connected with on social media met up with us to show us around the old city and introduce us to traditional Saudi cuisine. We enjoyed incredible local meals while discussing Jeddah’s past and future.
They shared that the Saudi government has ambitious plans to restore and modernize Old Jeddah, aiming to transform it into a key tourist attraction. While investment in preserving history is exciting, I couldn’t help but hope that the renovations wouldn’t strip the city of its magic, replacing its authentic character with the kind of sterile, artificial tourist districts that have become common in the Gulf States. Jeddah’s raw, lived-in beauty is what makes it special, and I hoped it would remain untouched by over-commercialization.
Rawashin-Old wooden window patios
Old Jeddah
Riyadh
From Jeddah to Riyadh: A Modern Desert Capital
From Jeddah, we took a domestic flight to Riyadh, the modern-looking capital of Saudi Arabia, set deep in the country’s desert interior. Upon arrival, we were greeted at the airport by my Saudi rock-climbing friends, who had generously planned to host us during our stay.
Before heading out to the remote desert caves, we spent time exploring some of Riyadh’s historical sites, including the Masmak Fortress. This fortress holds immense significance in Saudi history—it was here, in the early 1900s, that the ancestors of the current ruling family launched a revolt to seize power, an event that ultimately shaped the modern Saudi state.
But Riyadh, for the most part, felt like a modern metropolis—a stark contrast to the historic streets of Old Jeddah. Glass-and-steel skyscrapers dominated the skyline, some featuring ingenious designs, like one that resembled the Eye of Sauron from The Lord of the Rings.
Driving through the city, we also got a chilling reminder of the region’s ongoing conflicts. Along the highway, we pulled over to stare at a row of Patriot missile batteries, their launchers pointed skyward, standing as a silent yet ominous defense system. These missiles were on high alert, ready to intercept any incoming drone or missile attacks from Yemen’s Houthi rebels, who were aligned with Iran—Saudi Arabia’s greatest geopolitical rival.
The sight was a stark reminder that, despite Saudi Arabia’s rapid modernization, it remains at the heart of one of the world’s most volatile regions.
Masmak Fortress
Antique market
End of the World
The End of the World: A Breathtaking Desert Escape
A few hours outside of Riyadh, we drove to one of Saudi Arabia’s most stunning desert landscapes—a place fittingly named the “End of the World.” Here, sheer 1,000-foot cliffs drop abruptly from a flat rocky escarpment into a vast desert valley, creating one of the most dramatic vistas in the country.
However, reaching the site wasn’t as simple as expected. The End of the World is located on a military base, and during our visit, training exercises were underway, with helicopters conducting drills and explosions echoing across the desert—likely preparations for the ongoing war in Yemen. Initially, the military refused us entry, restricting both rock climbing and access to certain roads. But thanks to a military contact one of my Saudi friends had, we managed to secure permission to visit.
The 4WD road leading to the cliffs was rough and long, but when we finally arrived, the views were astonishing. There was no one else in sight—just endless desert stretching to the horizon and the howling desert wind, chilling despite the heat.
We spent hours exploring the cliffs, scrambling over rock formations, and admiring the endless expanse below. The place had a raw, untouched beauty, the kind of landscape that makes you feel small against the vastness of nature.
My Saudi friend mentioned that the government plans to develop the site—potentially turning it into a tourist attraction with a shopping mall and theme park. While investment in tourism is exciting, I couldn’t help but feel grateful we visited before that transformation. The End of the World is special because of its isolation—and I hoped it would stay that way.
Jimmie and my Saudi friend standing on the top of the cliff
Jimmie
Me, the little dot standing on the top edge of the cliff
Me and the middle, my Saudi friends and Jimmie
The Desert Caves
Into the Desert: Searching for the Ma’aqala Sinkhole Caves
Our journey into the Ma’aqala desert plateau, known for its vast network of sinkhole caves, took us four hours deep into the desert. Our mission was to find and explore as many caves as possible, though we weren’t certain if we would locate them all or what condition they would be in. Recent record rainfall had hit Saudi Arabia, and we had no idea if the storms had flooded or damaged the caves.
The drive was long and desolate, with endless stretches of parched land and almost no sign of life. However, deep in the desert, we came across a striking contrast—a lush green oasis village.
Here, Saudi families had gathered for weekend picnics, setting up portable grills and blankets on the ground, enjoying barbecues in the shade of overgrown desert brush. We also spotted a hunting lodge belonging to the king, a reminder that even in the remotest corners of the desert, royalty and wealth still left their mark.
After a few brief stops in an oasis park and some markets, we continued on—our adventure into the unknown caves of Saudi Arabia had only just begun.
Saudi family having a picnic in a desert oasis park
Saudi family picnic in a desert oasis
Desert Roadside Markets: Camels, Tea, and Snacks
As we journeyed deeper into the Ma’aqala desert, we occasionally passed small roadside tents, where local vendors had set up makeshift stalls. These humble desert markets offered everything from snacks and hot tea to, surprisingly, live camels for sale.
Some vendors had small fires burning, preparing freshly brewed tea for passing travelers, while others displayed baskets of dates and local treats. The most striking were the camel sellers, standing beside their animals, waiting for buyers.
It was a reminder that, despite the vast emptiness of the desert, life still found a way to thrive—through the age-old traditions of trade and hospitality.
Woman selling food at a roadside stand
Traditional toothbrushes for sale at a roadside stand used to pick teeth clean
Camel seller at a roadside stand who invited us in for free tea and to talk to us
Meeting the Bedouins at a Desert Gas Station
At one of the few gas stations along our route, I had an unexpected and memorable encounter with a group of young Bedouin men. They were curious about me, likely surprised to see a foreigner in such a remote part of Saudi Arabia.
We struck up a conversation, and despite the language barrier, their enthusiasm and hospitality were evident. After some laughter and handshakes, we took photos together and exchanged Instagram information—a modern twist to a traditional Bedouin encounter.
It was a small but meaningful moment, reflecting the openness and friendliness of the desert people, who, despite their remote lifestyle, were just as connected to the world as anyone else.
Friendly beduin at a gas station
Camels wandering alone throughout the desert were a common sight
Hunting for Caves in the Saudi Desert
Finding the Ma’aqala caves wasn’t straightforward. We had no guide, no official maps—just online research, tips from other cavers and climbers, and conversations with local Bedouins. Most of the caves were far off-road, so our only strategy was to drive into the middle of nowhere and hope we were on the right track.
To navigate the desert, we had two vehicles—a necessary precaution in case one broke down. But it wasn’t all careful planning—we had a blast off-roading, racing up and down massive sand dunes at exhilarating speeds. Saudi drivers love desert off-roading, and I could feel their excitement every time we sped over a crest or drifted through soft sand.
Our first discovery was a small sinkhole, barely large enough to squeeze through. The entrance dropped 50 feet straight down, leading into a network of narrow tunnels. As we geared up to explore, we noticed a Bedouin family nearby, gathered with their prized falcons.
Falconry is a deep-rooted Saudi tradition, especially among the Bedouin, who capture wild falcons and train them to hunt. We stopped to chat about the caves, exchanging stories and information. The family was welcoming and proud of their falcons, allowing us to pose for photos with them—a moment that perfectly blended adventure, culture, and the timeless traditions of the desert.
Beduin father with his Falcon
Beduin son with his falcom
Beduin son with traditional head wrap for protection in desert
Me with a falcon
Ghosts, Genies, and a Cave Descent
As we prepared to descend into the sinkhole, the Bedouin family watched in shock. They warned us not to enter, explaining that the pit was full of ghosts, or jinn, and that at night, they could hear whispers and voices trying to lure people inside. They insisted that no one had ever dared go in before.
Ignoring the warnings, we carefully lowered ourselves into the pit, feeling a mix of excitement and curiosity. Once inside, we crawled through several narrow tunnels, though we didn’t uncover anything particularly remarkable. The air was cool and still, adding an eerie touch to the experience, as we remembered the Bedouins’ warnings about supernatural forces lurking below.
These kinds of caves are known to harbor snakes, so we were constantly on alert, shining our headlamps into every crevice. We didn’t encounter any, but the idea that something—or someone—could be lurking just out of sight made the exploration even more thrilling.
As we climbed back out, the Bedouin greeted us with wide eyes, clearly amazed that we had emerged unharmed. Whether it was luck, skill, or simply that the ghosts had chosen to stay silent that day, we’ll never know.
Jimmie setting up his rope to rapell into the pit
Me rapelling into the pit
Beduin looking down at us with curiosity
Beduin fascinated with us
Camping in the Saudi Desert
After exploring the cave, we set out to find a campsite in the vast desert. As night fell, we drove deeper into the sand dunes, eventually pulling over in a remote stretch of wilderness to set up camp.
The temperature dropped drastically, and the once blazing desert heat turned into a bone-chilling cold. To keep warm, we gathered desert brush for a large bonfire, its crackling flames casting flickering shadows across the dunes. As we barbecued under the stars, we sipped on non-alcoholic Saudi beer, laughing and sharing stories about our adventure.
The next morning, I woke at sunrise, the first light of day illuminating the endless waves of golden sand. I took some time to wander alone, soaking in the vastness and silence of the desert. With no other soul in sight, I felt a rare sense of peace and solitude, surrounded by the timeless beauty of the Arabian wilderness.
Small desert village we drove passed with a lonely mosque in the middle of nowhere on the way to locate a campsite
Camping in desert
Morning walk
Desert eagle hunting
Desert plants
Desert plants
Cave Hunting in the Saudi Desert
From our campsite deep in the dunes, we set off across the roadless desert, using GPS coordinates to track down more caves. Sometimes, we’d spot an opening in the sand, pull over, and explore, while other times, we’d peer into a pit only to be met with the overwhelming stench of death.
Many of these caves had become makeshift burial sites for Bedouins’ dead camels and goats, their decaying bodies filling the air with a putrid smell. The sight of skeletons and rotting carcasses served as a grim reminder of how harsh life in the desert can be.
One of the largest and most famous caves we hoped to explore was called the “Father of Fears”, named for its sheer 300-foot drop, which can only be entered via abseiling. However, recent rains had completely flooded the cave, making entry impossible. It was a huge disappointment, but rather than dwell on it, we pressed on, determined to explore as many caves as we could find.
Me rapelling into a cave
Desert caves
Me crawling through a small passageway in a desert cave
Crawling through a small passageway in a desert cave
Exploring the Depths of Dhal Shawyah Cave
The largest and most spectacular cave we explored was Dhal Shawyah Cave, which descended hundreds of feet into the cool depths of the desert. Inside, we discovered hidden chambers adorned with shimmering crystals, their surfaces catching the dim light and glowing like something out of a fantasy novel. Other rooms had immense domed ceilings, creating an almost cathedral-like atmosphere deep beneath the earth.
This was my favorite cave by far, and I suspect that one day, it will be turned into a show cave, as it can be walked into without the need for abseiling. However, the terrain was treacherous, with steep and unstable rock and sand, forcing us to tie ropes for support in certain sections to avoid slipping.
As we ventured deeper, we came across old bones scattered throughout the cave—some that appeared to be human. It was hard to say how they got there. They could have been dragged in by predators such as hyenas, foxes, or wolves, or perhaps victims—human or animal—had sought shelter inside the cave, only to become lost or trapped, ultimately perishing in the darkness.
The local Bedouins fear these caves, believing them to be haunted by ghosts and evil spirits, and few dare to enter. While the Saudi government has plans to develop some of these caves into tourist attractions, I worry that turning them into show caves will destroy their delicate ecosystem, erasing the mystery and natural beauty that makes them so special.
Us eating lunch in Dhal Shawyah Cave
In a room full of crystals
Me in one of the larger cave rooms with a domed ceiling in Dhal Shawyah Cave
Wrapping Up the Adventure in Saudi Arabia
After days of exploring the mystical desert caves, we drove back toward Riyadh and spent the night at a tent camp owned by one of the Saudi friends traveling with us. It was the perfect way to end our time in the desert, sitting around a fire, reflecting on the journey, and sharing stories under the vast, star-filled Saudi sky.
The next day, we did some final exploration of Riyadh, taking in more of the city’s history and culture before enjoying a traditional dinner as a farewell feast. Later that night, Jimmie and I boarded our British Airways flight back home, carrying with us the unforgettable memories of ancient caves, towering desert cliffs, and the unique hospitality of the Saudi people.
Saudi Arabia had once been off-limits to travelers, but after this trip, I knew it was only the beginning of the country’s new chapter—one that I had been lucky enough to witness at the very start.