March 2017: Exploring Eritrea
In March 2017, I spent four days in Eritrea with my friend Richard as part of a 10-day trip that also included southern Iraq. Eritrea was one of my last “Badland” countries—a place infamous for having one of the most repressive governments in the world, where 40,000 people flee every year to escape forced national service, often likened to slavery.
Yet, what drew me to Eritrea wasn’t its politics, but rather its unique ability to preserve the past. In my experience, harsh governments often have the unintended side effect of freezing a country in time, keeping it largely unchanged from the era before the regime took over.
Asmara: A Glimpse of Italy in Africa
Eritrea’s Italian colonial influence is unmistakable, particularly in Asmara, the capital. The city is a time capsule of Art Deco architecture, filled with wide boulevards, pastel-colored buildings, and vintage Fiat cars. Walking through Asmara, I felt like I had stepped into a forgotten 1930s Italian city, untouched by globalization or modern development.
Beyond Asmara: Ottoman Influence and Tribal Traditions
While Asmara preserves its Italian past, the rest of Eritrea reflects an older Ottoman influence, particularly in the port city of Massawa and the surrounding regions. However, what fascinated me most was Eritrea’s tribal cultures, some of the most intact and well-preserved in all of Africa.
This was the Eritrea I came to see—and I definitely found it.
About Eritrea
Eritrea: Africa’s Hermit Kingdom
Eritrea is a country born from a brutal 30-year war with Ethiopia, a conflict that ultimately saw Ethiopia lose its access to the Red Sea. Today, Eritrea is often dubbed “the North Korea of Africa” due to its severe human rights abuses, oppressive government, and extreme isolation from the outside world.
Since gaining independence, Eritrea has been ruled by a dictatorship under President Isaias Afwerki and his PFDJ (People’s Front for Democracy and Justice) party, which evolved from the rebel group that led the fight against Ethiopia. Under Afwerki’s rule, the country has remained one of the most tightly controlled and repressive nations on Earth.
A Country That Shuts the World Out
Eritrea has a notorious reputation for being one of the hardest countries in the world to visit. Obtaining a tourist visa is extremely difficult, with many applications simply ignored or rejected. Worse still, some applicants have had their passports withheld by Eritrean embassies, adding to the anxiety of even attempting a visit.
For those who do manage to get a visa, travel is heavily restricted.
- Most of the country is off-limits to foreigners.
- Checkpoints are common.
- All movement outside the capital requires special permits.
- Tourists must book their visit through a government-approved travel agency.
A Nation Fleeing Itself
Eritrea is one of the top ten refugee-producing countries in the world, which is staggering given its small population. The primary reason? National service, which is essentially state-sanctioned slavery.
Every citizen is forced into mandatory military or civil service, which can last not just for months, but indefinitely. This ranges from administrative work to grueling hard labor. There is no choice, no escape—except to flee. Thousands risk their lives crossing the border every year, but those who are caught face imprisonment in one of the country’s 200 prison camps.
Silence is Survival
For a foreigner, Eritrea is a country where every word and action is observed. The state maintains a tight web of informants, making it unwise to discuss politics at any time. Even casual conversations can be reported, and the consequences for locals can be severe.
Eritrea remains one of the most closed-off, controlled, and repressive nations in the world—a place where history has stood still, but at an unimaginable cost.
Location of Eritrea
Eritrea: A Country Frozen in Ideology
Eritrea’s revolutionary government still clings to a Marxist ideology, and propaganda murals celebrating the PFDJ regime, revolutionary struggle, and anti-Western sentiment are common throughout the country. While internet access is expanding across much of Africa, in Eritrea, it is deliberately throttled to ensure that it remains virtually non-functional—just one of many tools used by the government to control information and limit dissent.
There is no political opposition, no free press, and no space for independent thought. Speech is heavily regulated, and criticism of the government can lead to imprisonment—or worse.
Navigating the Visa Process
Despite Eritrea’s reputation for being one of the hardest countries to visit, the visa process had slightly improved by the time of my trip. It had become possible to obtain a visa on arrival, but only with prior authorization from Asmara.
To secure this, I had to work with an Eritrean travel agency based in Asmara. The agency owner, a former military general, claimed to have connections within the government. Still, it took a full month to receive my visa authorization.
Once approved, I flew from Dubai to Asmara, where I met up with my friend Richard—ready to experience one of the most isolated countries in the world firsthand.
Revolution Murals
Revolution Murals
Revolution Murals
Asmara
Arrival in Asmara: A City Frozen in Time
Upon landing in Asmara, I met up with Richard and our driver to begin our journey through one of Africa’s most isolated countries. However, before we could travel beyond the capital, we had to spend the night and process our permits—a requirement for all foreigners wanting to leave the city.
Asmara was unlike any other place I had seen in Africa. It felt frozen in time, its Art Deco Italian architecture a remnant of Eritrea’s colonial past. The city was uncrowded, quiet, and easy to explore, with gracefully decaying buildings that gave it an old-world charm.
Despite Eritrea’s reputation for secrecy and isolation, the people were friendly and welcoming. Unaccustomed to seeing many foreigners, they were curious yet warm, and many were more than happy to pose for photos, eager to share a glimpse of their world with an outsider.
Asmara Movie Theatre
Eritrea’s World War II Legacy
During World War II, Italy’s Benito Mussolini sought to expand his colonial empire by invading Ethiopia, which at the time included modern-day Eritrea. As a result, Eritrea became a battleground for some of the largest WWII conflicts in Africa.
One of the most somber reminders of this history is the war cemeteries scattered across the country, where many of the fallen soldiers—both Axis and Allied—remain buried. These cemeteries stand as silent witnesses to the fierce battles fought on Eritrean soil, a chapter of history often overshadowed by the country’s more recent struggles.
WWII Cemetary
A Warm Welcome from Eritrea’s Children
Everywhere we went in Eritrea, we were greeted by friendly, curious children. Unaccustomed to seeing many foreigners, they would run up to us with wide smiles, eager to interact. Some were shy at first, watching us from a distance, while others were bold and excited, asking for photos or simply wanting to chat.
Eritrea kids
Eritrea’s Resourcefulness: A Market of Recycled Ingenuity
In a country as poor and isolated as Eritrea, even garbage holds value. With heavy sanctions limiting imports and the government striving for self-sufficiency, Eritreans have mastered the art of recycling—turning discarded materials into useful, everyday items.
We visited a market where scrap metal, old tires, and broken appliances were refashioned into tools, household goods, and machinery. Walking through, we saw everything from handmade cooking stoves to repurposed engine parts, all crafted from salvaged materials.
This wasn’t just recycling—it was survival. In a place where resources are scarce and nothing goes to waste, Eritreans have developed an ingenuity born from necessity, proving that even the most unexpected materials can be given new life.
Recycling market
Recycling market
Recycling market
Bowling in the 1940s: A Time Capsule in Eritrea
Of all the experiences in Eritrea, the bowling alley was an absolute highlight—easily my favorite bowling experience ever.
Stepping inside felt like entering a time capsule from the 1940s. The bar, the decor, the music—everything was frozen in time. Old-school blues played over the radio, while elderly men gathered around the pool tables, engaged in slow, deliberate games. Meanwhile, the bowling lanes were packed with local Eritreans, enjoying a rare leisure activity in a country where entertainment options are limited.
The entire setup was manual. Small children were stationed at the end of the lanes, retrieving the bowling balls and rolling them back by hand. There were no automatic pinsetters, just pure, old-school mechanics.
Richard and I played a couple of games against some Eritreans, sharing laughs and a few beers from the bar that hadn’t changed in decades.
I could have spent all day there—and then some. It wasn’t just bowling; it was a glimpse into a world long forgotten everywhere else, preserved in Eritrea’s frozen-in-time charm.
Asmara Bowling Alley
Asmara Bowling Alley
Asmara Bowling Alley
Asmara Bowling Alley
Exploring Asmara’s Military Junkyard: A Relic of War
Another fascinating highlight in Asmara was the military equipment junkyard, a vast graveyard of tanks, artillery, and other remnants of war from Eritrea’s long and brutal conflict with Ethiopia.
To visit, we needed a special permit, which was strictly checked at the gate—a reminder that even abandoned military relics are carefully controlled by the government.
Inside, the scene was both surreal and eerie. Rows of rusting tanks, decommissioned weaponry, and mangled military vehicles stretched as far as we could see—silent testaments to decades of war and struggle. Some of the equipment was Soviet-made, while others bore Western markings, reflecting the mix of global powers that had influenced the conflict.
Standing among these rusted war machines, I couldn’t help but reflect on the cost of war—not just in terms of equipment, but in human lives and a nation’s future. This junkyard of destruction was now a museum of resilience, where Eritrea’s past remained frozen in time.
Military equipment junkyard
Military equipment junkyard
Military equipment junkyard
Military equipment junkyard
Asmara: One of My Favorite Cities in Africa
Asmara quickly became one of my favorite cities in Africa—a place unlike any other on the continent. With its Art Deco architecture, old Italian influence, and time-capsule atmosphere, it felt like stepping into a forgotten era.
I stayed two nights at the Serena Hotel, Asmara’s only so-called five-star hotel—though in reality, it felt closer to a 2- or 3-star. That said, it was comfortable and one of the best options available. In a country where modern development is nearly nonexistent, luxury is relative.
Despite its limitations, Asmara’s charm more than made up for it. The city’s calm, relaxed atmosphere, lack of crowds, and welcoming locals made it a place I won’t forget.
marketplace
A Shadowy Encounter at the Post Office
Richard and I spent the day wandering through Asmara, soaking in its Italian Art Deco charm at our own pace. One of our stops was the beautifully preserved post office, a striking relic of Eritrea’s colonial past. The building was mostly empty, and I snapped a quick photo, not thinking much of it.
That was enough to draw attention.
A random man began following us, and when he finally caught up, his questioning began:
“Where is your guide? What are you foreigners doing here? Are you photographing?”
His sudden and intense curiosity immediately set off red flags. In a country as tightly controlled as Eritrea, shadowy government informants are everywhere, watching what people say and do.
I stayed polite but vague, not wanting to escalate the situation. I told him that our guide had our permits in the car and that he was welcome to speak with him. Without stopping, we simply kept walking.
Thankfully, he didn’t follow us any further, but it was a reminder of Eritrea’s ever-present surveillance culture—where even something as simple as a photo of a post office could be seen as suspicious.
Post office
A Mountain Descent to Keren
Leaving Asmara, we descended the winding mountain roads, passing through rugged landscapes and steep cliffs. Along the way, we encountered huge mountain baboons, perched along the roadside, accustomed to being fed by travelers. These baboons weren’t shy—they were bold, aggressive, and persistent in seeking handouts, sometimes even trying to get into the car.
The road itself was in rough shape—riddled with potholes, making for a bumpy and slow journey. However, one advantage of traveling in Eritrea is that traffic is almost nonexistent—most people simply can’t afford cars.
After 4-5 hours of driving, we arrived in Keren at night, a predominantly Muslim town known for its lively markets and distinct cultural atmosphere. In the darkness, the town felt quiet and mysterious, a stark contrast to the Italian-influenced Asmara we had left behind.
Karen bus
View from mountains
Mountain baboons
Mountain baboons
Mountain baboons
Sunset over mountains enroute to karen
Karen
A Morning in Keren: Eritrea’s Rural Heartland
After spending the night in a modest guesthouse in Keren, I woke early and wandered the town, taking in the sights of this conservative Islamic community. Unlike the Italian-influenced Asmara, Keren felt deeply rural, its economy centered around agriculture and trade.
The streets were alive with nomads arriving on camels, their silhouettes striking against the dusty morning light. They had come to trade livestock, grains, and other goods, reinforcing the town’s role as a vital market hub in this part of Eritrea.
Unlike in Asmara, where locals were often happy to pose for photos, the people here were more reserved, even camera-shy. In a town rooted in traditional customs and conservative values, it was clear that outside attention was less welcome.
Still, observing Keren’s daily life unfold—from the bustling market stalls to the slow-moving camel caravans—offered an authentic glimpse into the rhythms of rural Eritrea.
man walking to a mosque
Camel market
Friendly man posing for a photo
Nomad on his camel
Friendly school kids
A Journey to Massawa: Hospitality Along the Way
In the afternoon, we departed Keren and made our way to Massawa, an ancient Red Sea port town with deep Ottoman influences. The drive took us through arid landscapes and remote villages, offering a stark contrast to the cool mountain air of Asmara.
Along the way, we stopped in a small village, where we were welcomed into the home of an elderly blind man and his wife. Despite having little, their hospitality was unwavering—they invited us in and served sweet, spiced tea, a gesture of warmth and generosity that transcended language and cultural barriers.
Sitting with them in their simple home, sharing tea and conversation, was a humbling reminder of the kindness and resilience of Eritrea’s people, even in the face of hardship. These spontaneous encounters—unplanned and unscripted—often turn out to be the most memorable moments of travel.
Drinking tea with an elderly blind man in his village
Exploring a Forgotten WWII Italian Fort in the Desert
As we drove through the scorching Eritrean desert, a lonely fort appeared in the distance, perched atop a rugged hill. Curious, I asked if we could stop and climb it.
With temperatures soaring past 100°F, there was no road leading to the fort, meaning I’d have to scramble up the rocky terrain under the blistering sun. I later learned that this was a WWII-era Italian fort, once built to suppress the Eritrean people during Italy’s colonial rule.
Determined to explore, I raced up the mountain toward the abandoned structure, sweat pouring as the heat radiated off the rocks. Reaching the top, I discovered an entrance through a network of tunnels, remnants of an era when Italian forces fought to maintain control of Eritrea.
The fort had clearly been abandoned for decades—its walls crumbling, its history slowly fading into the desert winds. Yet, standing there alone, with no tourists, no signs, and no barriers, it felt like stepping back in time—a silent relic of colonial ambitions long forgotten.
WWII Era Italian Fort
WWII Era Italian Fort
A Nomadic Wedding Procession in the Eritrean Desert
One of the most unforgettable moments of the drive was encountering nomadic families traveling by camel, their silhouettes moving slowly across the vast, sunbaked landscape. Among them, I spotted a wedding party—a truly special sight.
Curious, I asked to stop and visit. The new bride, veiled and adorned, sat atop her husband’s camel, a tradition that signified her journey into a new life. The family, dressed in their finest traditional attire, walked alongside, guiding the caravan through the arid expanse.
Their hospitality was instant and genuine—they welcomed me warmly, eager to share their customs. It was a rare and authentic glimpse into nomadic life, a scene that felt timeless and untouched by modernity. Moments like these—unscripted and deeply human—are what make travel truly extraordinary.
Nomads on side of road
Nomad man
Massawa
Massawa: A City of Decay and Beauty
Besides the Asmara bowling alley, my favorite place in Eritrea was Massawa, a hauntingly beautiful Red Sea port city steeped in Ottoman history and colonial-era charm.
We arrived just as the sun was setting, casting a golden glow over the city’s crumbling facades. Unable to resist, I immediately set off on foot, eager to explore the maze of ancient alleyways, weaving between some of the most breathtakingly decayed Ottoman buildings I had ever seen.
Many structures still bore the scars of Eritrea’s war with Ethiopia—bombed-out shells, crumbling archways, and bullet-ridden walls. Yet despite the destruction, Massawa still felt alive.
Locals gathered outside charming but weathered cafés, sipping sweet tea in the warm evening air. As Richard and I passed by, they smiled, waved, and greeted us, their warmth and friendliness standing in stark contrast to the city’s war-torn appearance.
Massawa felt like a place frozen in time, a forgotten jewel of the Red Sea, where beauty and ruin coexisted in perfect, melancholic harmony.
Ottoman era buildings
Massawa
Massawa
Massawa
Massawa
massawa
Massawa’s “Five-Star” Hotel – A Reality Check
The only hotel in town had marketed itself online as a luxurious seaside retreat, boasting a sparkling pool overlooking the Red Sea. In reality, the pool resembled a sewer pit, its murky waters filled with naked village kids joyfully swimming in it.
Like most things in Eritrea, the hotel’s self-proclaimed five-star status was wildly optimistic—it was, at best, a 1- or 2-star establishment. The A/C didn’t work, and at night, the ceiling fan failed when the city’s frequent blackouts hit, leaving the room stiflingly hot and nearly unbearable.
The humidity in Massawa was relentless, clinging to my skin even in the dead of night. Despite the discomfort, I still loved this little town. There was something magical about its decaying beauty, its quiet resilience, and the warmth of its people.
Even if the hotel didn’t live up to expectations, Massawa itself did.
Our hotel
Searching for the Rashida Nomads
One of my goals in Eritrea was to meet the Rashida nomads, a Bedouin Arab tribe known for their prized camel breeding and the intricate embroidered head veils worn by their women.
In a remote desert village, we met a local chief who offered to take us to visit a Rashida encampment—for a small fee, of course. We set off, driving through the barren landscape, eventually coming across a group of tents.
But the welcome was less than warm. The Rashida women were visibly uncomfortable with male visitors and refused to be photographed. They explained that if any men in their family found out they had been photographed, they could be killed. Despite this, they still demanded $150 per photo, an absurd price in a country where most people have almost nothing.
We declined and settled for a photo of their tent and the chief. While the experience was interesting, the Rashida were probably my least favorite people in Eritrea—not because they were unfriendly, but because there was no real exchange, just an immediate demand for money.
Still, seeing their nomadic way of life firsthand, even for a brief moment, offered a glimpse into one of the most isolated and traditional communities in Eritrea.
Rashaida Nomad tent
Rashiada cheif
The Final Stretch: Back to Asmara and Onward to Dubai
After our time in Massawa and the remote desert villages, we drove back to Asmara for one final night in Eritrea’s frozen-in-time capital. The return journey felt familiar yet surreal, passing through the same rugged landscapes, baboon-filled mountain roads, and crumbling colonial relics that had defined our journey.
The next morning, we departed Asmara, leaving behind one of the world’s most isolated and enigmatic countries. From there, we flew onward to Dubai, a city that couldn’t be more different—a stark contrast of modern excess and technological innovation compared to Eritrea’s decaying, time-warped beauty.
Though short, our time in Eritrea had been unforgettable. From Asmara’s Art Deco streets to Massawa’s crumbling Ottoman charm, the nomadic tribes, and the eerie military junkyards, this was a country that felt like a relic of another era, where history lingers and change comes at a glacial pace.