May 2016: I visited Brunei as part of a larger two-week adventure that included tracking cobras in Bali, staying with the Korowai Tribe in Papua, and crossing a remote border into Papua New Guinea. Since I was already in the region, I decided it would be a missed opportunity not to visit Brunei, even if my stay had to be short. I deliberately planned a stopover on my way to Bali from Los Angeles.
The stopover lasted one night and almost a full day, just enough time for me to experience what intrigued me most about Brunei: seeing the bizarre-looking proboscis monkey, known for its distinctive, penis-shaped nose. These unique monkeys inhabit the mangrove jungles just outside the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, making it relatively easy to arrange a trip. I hired a boatman to track them during my short stay.
Proboscis monkeys are endemic to Borneo, and I had missed my chance to see them during a previous visit to Sabah. This stopover was my opportunity to make up for that. Witnessing these strange and fascinating creatures in their natural habitat was a highlight of my trip and a rewarding way to experience Brunei’s rich biodiversity, even on a tight schedule.
Location of Brunei
Brunei, a tiny, oil-rich nation the size of Delaware, is ruled by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, one of the world’s wealthiest leaders and the longest-serving current monarch. Its vast oil and gas reserves fund a high standard of living for its citizens.
Under strict Islamic law, Brunei enforces a Sharia Penal Code with severe punishments, including death by stoning for homosexuality, drawing global criticism. Despite its conservative governance, the nation is known for its modern infrastructure and the Sultan’s extravagant lifestyle, reflecting its immense wealth.
Tracking Proboscis Monkeys
Planning the trip was straightforward. After researching likely habitats for proboscis monkeys near the capital, I set out early, leaving my hotel before sunrise and heading to Kianggeh Jetty along the Brunei River. The jetty was bustling with fishing boats for hire, and I negotiated a price with a boatman to take me into the mangroves where the monkeys live. To confirm our destination, I even showed him a photo of a proboscis monkey, and he assured me they were easy to spot.
The boat ride itself was fascinating. We passed a section of the city where people live in stilted homes, creating a striking contrast to the modern cityscape. Along the way, we also glimpsed the Sultan’s palace, with its massive golden dome rising above the forest canopy. At 2.15 million square feet, it is the largest residential palace in the world—a testament to the Sultan’s wealth and status.
Boat man who took me into the mangroves in the customary headwrap for men in the region
My boat heading into the mangroves
Stilted city
Sultans palace
The mangrove was a shadowy, dense jungle teeming with life. Though I caught glimpses of massive crocodiles and lizards in the water, they proved too elusive to photograph. Among the wildlife, I also spotted rhesus macaque monkeys, but the highlight was, of course, the proboscis monkeys—the reason for my visit.
Male proboscis monkeys are particularly fascinating, with their oversized beer belly-like physique and their distinctive, floppy, nose resembling a cartoonishly exaggerated human feature. These unique primates are sadly becoming increasingly endangered as mangrove habitats across Borneo are lost to development.
Thankfully, Brunei’s wealth from oil has allowed the country to set aside significant portions of its rainforests for conservation. This makes Brunei one of the best places to see proboscis monkeys in the wild. I was fortunate to encounter dozens of them, a truly unforgettable experience.
Mangrove forest
Young proboscis monkey
Large male proboscis monkey
After a successful morning exploring the mangroves and spotting plenty of wildlife, I returned to the city to visit the local market and soak in its vibrant atmosphere. The tropical humidity had me drenched in sweat, so I took some time to cool off in my hotel room with the much-needed relief of air conditioning. Later that evening, I boarded a Royal Brunei Airlines flight and departed for Bali, marking the end of my short but memorable stopover in Brunei.