February 2024: For years, I envisioned this exact moment—visiting my final United Nations-recognized country, completing my journey to all 197 countries. I wanted this special milestone to coincide with my six-month-old daughter Indie’s very first country visit. As a fitting twist, Indie’s first destination turned out to be in the Caribbean’s West Indies—a perfect namesake! It’s still hard to believe that my plan worked out so seamlessly.
With my wife Paula, her mom, my nephew, and some good friends, we spent nearly a week in Saint Kitts and Nevis, mostly on the serene island of Nevis. It was a memorable time of celebration, exploration, and shared milestones as I completed a lifelong goal while introducing Indie to the world for the very first time.
About Saint Kitts and Nevis
Saint Kitts and Nevis consist of two distinct islands, each with its own government, yet united as a single nation. Formerly a British colony established in the 1600s, Saint Kitts and Nevis was once among England’s most prosperous colonies, primarily due to sugar plantations worked by African slaves. Now an independent country, its population is predominantly made up of the descendants of these slaves. Both islands are geographically characterized by dormant volcanoes enveloped in rainforests at their core.
Location of Saint Kitts and Nevis
Rough Public Ferry from Saint Kitts to Nevis
Getting to Nevis from Saint Kitts offers two options: the public ferry from Basseterre, which is the cheapest but takes about an hour on the rough sea, or the 10-minute water taxi from the far end of Saint Kitts, which is calmer but requires a 40-minute drive across the island. Unfortunately, I opted for the public ferry, a decision I soon regretted.
My nephew and I had flown in from Saint Lucia, meeting up with Paula, her mom, and Indie in Saint Kitts. With all our luggage—far more than we ever traveled with before having a baby—we took a taxi to the ferry terminal in Basseterre. Waiting for the ferry, reggae music playing in the background, we could see the rough waves and exchanged uneasy glances with other passengers. Though we considered switching to a taxi for the water taxi, moving all our luggage again felt like more trouble than it was worth. But once we set off, it was clear we’d made the wrong call. The ferry, named Mark Twain, struggled against the towering waves. Locals screamed each time we hit a wave crest and plummeted down, with the captain cutting the engine each time we dropped.
Ten minutes in, the engine overheated, and we had to return to port to switch boats. The Filipino captain reassured me, saying the new boat was “safer”—which left me wondering why we hadn’t taken the safer boat in the first place. I couldn’t help but think about the Nevis ferry that sank decades ago, now a dive site, though I decided to keep that to myself.
The rest of the journey was a true ordeal. Indie became seasick and vomited, which left me worried she might choke, and soon enough, I got sick as well. Thankfully, a kind passenger handed me a plastic bag and peppermint, which helped a bit. After an hour of relentless waves, we finally arrived at Nevis, and I’d never been happier to be on solid ground. We immediately decided: the return trip would be on the quick, eight-minute water taxi.
Public ferry
Family on the ferry
Rough seas
My Favorite Air BnB of All Time
We found a beautiful house rental on an old plantation dating back to the 1700s, perched high on the island with stunning views of the ocean and nearby islands, including the volcanic island of Montserrat. Behind the house, the lush Nevis volcano towered, covered in dense rainforest. The house itself was perfect for us, especially the spacious deck with sweeping views, and the pool added an extra touch of relaxation.
The property was beautifully maintained by a kind landscaper who visited daily to tend to the plants and trees. We even had a regular troop of wild monkeys visiting the trees nearby, adding to the charm of the place. An incredibly friendly housekeeper also came by each day to keep the house immaculate, which made our stay feel like a true retreat. Amazingly, this rental was more affordable than any hotel on the island, and for the same cost, a hotel room would have been far less appealing.
We enjoyed the house so much that we often found it difficult to leave. Some days, we spent nearly the entire day just lounging around, soaking up the peace and views from this incredible spot.
Our Home for the week
My favorite place the porch
Our pool
Nevis Volcano behind our house
Nevis Volcano behind our house
Indie exploring the house
Indie exploring the house
Waking up in the morning to the amazing view outside our bedroom
Being visited every day by one of the wild monkeys that came over on slave ships from Africa hundreds of years ago. This one locked eyes with Indie and for a good 30 seconds they stared intently at each other from only a few feet away.
Celebrating 197/197
Reaching the goal of visiting every United Nations-recognized country was an incredible feeling—one that had been nearly 28 years in the making. It felt surreal to stand on Nevis Island and realize I had finally completed this journey, a dream I’d carried and worked toward over decades of travel. Sharing this accomplishment with my family, friends, and especially with Indie for her very first country, made it even more special. The celebration was filled with joy, pride, and a real sense of fulfillment that only deepened with the presence of those closest to me.
Celebrating at a local restaraunt
Dan drinking local rum
Paula, Indie and I
Exploring Nevis
Despite the unseasonable tropical storm that rolled through, bringing heavy rain and lightning, we still found ways to explore Nevis. My plans for scuba diving, renting a catamaran, and hiking the volcano fell through due to the weather, but we were determined to see as much of the island as possible. Renting a car turned out to be a great decision. The owner even delivered it to the ferry port, escorted us to our rental house, and set me up with a Nevis driver’s license for $20—conveniently skipping the usual process through the police department.
Each day, we ventured out to explore, visiting the charming capital of Charlestown and historical sites like the old Hamilton Plantation. Unfortunately, the stormy weather left the beaches covered in seaweed, flies, and poor water visibility, dampening my hopes of reaching one remote beach in particular. In the end, my attempt left us stuck in thick mud on a side road. But before we could worry, several locals stopped to help, kindly towing us out without expecting anything in return. Their generosity was heartwarming and a testament to the spirit of the island, despite the less-than-ideal conditions.
Charlestown
House where American founding father,Alexandar Hamilton was borne
Exploring Nevis’s historic sites was one of the highlights of our trip, especially the eerie beauty of the abandoned British Fort Charles on the town’s outskirts. This crumbling fort, with its ancient, rusted cannons still pointed toward the sea, has a storied past, having changed hands multiple times between the British and French during turbulent colonial conflicts. Standing there, we could imagine the history it had witnessed—likely a place of intense battles and bloodshed.
The setting was stunning, with panoramic views of the coastline and the towering Nevis Volcano in the background, and we had the entire place to ourselves. This solitude made the visit feel even more special and allowed us to appreciate the quiet, almost sacred atmosphere. In addition to Fort Charles, we came across other eerie, abandoned structures nearby—a factory building and an empty condo complex that seemed frozen in time. These haunting remnants of the past gave the area an unforgettable, almost ghostly charm that added to Nevis’s unique appeal.
Paula and Indie by an old cannon in the abandoned old British Fort Charles
Derelict british building in the abandoned old British Fort Charles
Paula and Indie admiring the view
While driving around Nevis, we stumbled upon a cluster of old, abandoned brick buildings that immediately piqued our curiosity. Deciding to stop and explore, we soon discovered these ruins were remnants of the historic Hamilton family’s sugar plantation. The plantation had been an integral part of Nevis’s colonial history, and it was fascinating to walk among the ruins, imagining the lives of those who once worked and lived there.
These weathered structures had a raw, almost timeless feel, with vines and greenery slowly reclaiming the bricks. It felt like stepping back in time, as though the land itself was preserving memories of a different era. Standing in the ruins, surrounded by the quietness of the landscape, gave us a deep sense of the island’s layered history and a unique insight into the world Alexander Hamilton was born into. This unplanned exploration turned out to be one of our most memorable discoveries on Nevis.
Abandoned house by the Nevis Volcano
Paula and Indie by one of the old brick sugar silo buildings
Brick sugar silo
Paula and Indie in one of the old sugar mill buildings
Our time in Nevis was everything I could have hoped for—not only because we celebrated a personal milestone, visiting my last country, but because it was our first international trip together as a family with Indie. Watching her take in the sights, sounds, and experiences of this new place made the journey all the more meaningful. Sharing this milestone with Paula, Indie, and our extended family added a layer of joy that made the achievement feel complete. This trip was more than a celebration of travel; it was a celebration of togetherness, and I’m excited for all the future adventures we’ll share as a family. Here’s to this being just the beginning of many more explorations to come.