Exploring the High Arctic and Abandoned Soviet Era Mining Towns-Svalbard Arctic Islands

September 2012: As part of a nearly three-week icebreaker adventure through northeastern Greenland and Iceland, I also traveled to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard. Svalbard is a remote Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean, situated between mainland Norway and the North Pole. Known for its dramatic landscapes of glaciers, rugged mountains, and tundra, it is sparsely populated, with Longyearbyen as its main settlement. The region experiences extreme Arctic conditions, including polar nights in winter and midnight sun in summer. It is home to iconic wildlife such as polar bears, Arctic foxes, and reindeer, as well as diverse seabirds, making it a haven for nature enthusiasts and researchers.

Governed by Norway under the Svalbard Treaty of 1920, the islands allow access to citizens of treaty nations and require strict environmental regulations to preserve their fragile ecosystem. Historically a hub for coal mining, Svalbard’s economy now focuses on tourism and scientific research, including the Global Seed Vault on Spitsbergen. Popular activities include glacier hiking, wildlife safaris, and exploring its pristine wilderness, where travelers must carry firearms for protection against polar bears.

The journey began in Longyearbyen, the only settlement on Spitsbergen Island that resembles a city—though it feels more like a village under siege from polar bears and the relentless cold.

Before embarking on the boat trip, I spent a few days in Longyearbyen camping in a tent near the airport, exploring the rugged surroundings on foot, and taking a day trip to Pyramiden, an abandoned Soviet-era mining town. The stark beauty and haunting remnants of human habitation in this remote Arctic frontier left a lasting impression.

Location of Spitsbergen

One Week in Svalbard: My Itinerary

Day 1
Arrived in Longyearbyen from Tromsø and set up camp in a tent near the airport. Spent the day exploring the area, taking in the unique atmosphere of this Arctic settlement.

Day 2
Took a day trip to Pyramiden, an abandoned Soviet-era mining town. Returned to the campsite near the airport for another night under the Arctic sky.

Days 3–5
Boarded a ship to explore a portion of the western coast of Spitsbergen. The days were filled with kayaking in icy waters, hiking through rugged terrain, and spotting wildlife like walruses, Arctic foxes, whales, polar bears, and caribou. Each night, I slept aboard the ship before setting sail across the Greenland Sea toward Greenland.

Warning signs on the main road into town

Spitsbergen isn’t exactly budget-friendly when it comes to accommodations, so I opted for my usual cost-saving strategy: camping. I stayed at a low-cost campsite near the airport, conveniently within walking distance of the runway. The campsite had established canvas tents and an indoor heated common area with couches, a kitchen, and bathrooms—a cozy reprieve from the Arctic chill.

Even in September, the nights were brisk, but I came prepared with my cold-weather camping gear. One thing that crossed my mind was the potential danger of polar bears, given Svalbard’s reputation for wildlife. When I asked, the camp staff reassured me that polar bears weren’t a concern in the airport area. Tragically, though, a few years after my visit, a polar bear entered the campground and killed a camper—a sobering reminder of the risks that come with exploring the Arctic wilderness.

My tent at the airport

From the campground, I would brave the couple-mile walk into town without a rifle, constantly scanning for polar bears and planning escape routes in case one appeared. While polar bears posed a potential threat, the most immediate danger came from diving petrel birds protecting their young. These fiercely territorial birds would swoop down, their wings brushing the sides of my head in sharp warning.

Interestingly, these birds hold the record for the world’s greatest migration, traveling annually from one pole to the other. Their incredible journey spans thousands of miles, showcasing their resilience and adaptability, even as they fiercely defend their nests in the Arctic.

Walking into town

Beind dive bombed by petrols was my biggest risk on the walk

Ideal mode of travel on the island

I booked a day trip by boat to Pyramiden, an abandoned coal mining town that was part of the Soviet Union. Pyramiden was active from 1927 until 1998, but it became a ghost town following the collapse of the Soviet Union and a tragic plane crash that claimed the lives of many of its residents. The crash marked a turning point, as the town’s spirit never fully recovered from the loss.

Today, Pyramiden is mostly abandoned, though a couple of Russians remain there year-round to maintain the site. The boat trip, shared with a group of other travelers, was surprisingly affordable. Upon arrival, we were escorted into the ghost town by a guide carrying a rifle, as polar bears are known to frequent the area. Wandering through the remnants of this Soviet-era settlement, with its haunting emptiness and echoes of history, was both eerie and fascinating.

Me eating lunch on the boat to Pyramiden

Pyramiden-Lenin Statue overlooking the abandoned city

Pyramiden

Pyramiden-Lenin Statue

Pyramiden-Mining Ramparts

Pyramiden

Pyramiden

Pyramiden-Abandoned Apartment Complex Now Inhabited by Biirds

Pyramiden

Pyramiden

Pyramiden

Pyramiden

Pyramiden

Pyramiden isn’t entirely abandoned; a small group of Russian caretakers still resides in one of the buildings, maintaining the site to prevent it from falling entirely into ruin. Their presence adds a faint pulse of life to this otherwise eerie and desolate Soviet-era mining town.

During my visit, I shared a few vodka shots with the caretakers to toast the memory of Pyramiden’s former glory. Their stories and hospitality offered a glimpse into the past, making the experience feel like stepping back into a frozen moment of history, preserved against the harsh Arctic backdrop.

Common sight of Soviet murals all over town

Pyramiden

Pyramiden

At the start of the G-Adventures expedition boat trip, we explored the Spitsbergen islands, stopping at various locations to hike and kayak. The untouched landscapes were breathtaking, and the wildlife encounters were nothing short of incredible. From walruses lounging on ice floes to Arctic foxes darting across the tundra, and even glimpses of polar bears and whales, the experience felt like stepping into a nature documentary. Each stop offered its own unique glimpse into the raw beauty and rich biodiversity of the Arctic.

Traveling by boat around the north of the archipelago

Puffin

Wild reindeer

Glacier

Arctic fox

ring seal

Humpback whale

Whale bones

Petrol flying

Bearded seal

Me on the glacier after kayaking to it

Kayaking

Glacier bay

Walrus Encounter

My favorite wildlife encounter in Svalbard was with a pod of walruses, which we were fortunate to spot in just one location. Seeing these massive creatures was a truly exotic experience. As the largest of seals, they were fascinating to watch—cantankerous and comical, constantly bickering, and letting out thunderous belches and farting sounds that echoed across the icy landscape.

To avoid disturbing them, we kept a respectful distance of 100 yards, but even from afar, their sheer size and quirky behavior made the encounter unforgettable. Watching them interact in their natural habitat felt like witnessing a scene from a prehistoric world.

Walrus

Walrus

I always feel incredibly blessed to witness a true wilderness, one that few people will ever have the chance to see. Svalbard, with its cold and forbidding landscapes, felt like a paradise to me for precisely this reason—a place where nature reigns supreme, untouched and raw in its beauty.

From Svalbard, our journey continued across the vast, open waters of the Arctic Ocean. For over one day, we traveled through the frigid expanse, eventually reaching the remote and rugged northeastern coast of Greenland, a land just as wild and awe-inspiring.