September 2012: As part of a three-week journey, I embarked from Svalbard, traveling along the northeastern coast of Greenland before finishing in Iceland. The adventure was aboard an impressive icebreaker operated by G-Adventures, with a Norwegian crew. Alongside about 70 other travelers, I journeyed through the wilds of northeastern Greenland, exploring one of its majestic fjords, kayaking, and hiking across rugged mountains in search of polar bears, muskoxen, marine life, and pure adventure. This remote area is part of Northeast Greenland National Park, the world’s largest and one of its most pristine wildernesses.
In this vast, untouched region, where muskoxen outnumber humans and the only inhabitants are Inuit, I finally saw the Greenland I had always dreamed of. Although the only feasible way to access this part of Greenland was by adventure boat, the experience was worth every penny, offering a rare glimpse into one of the planet’s last true wildernesses.
Route of my three week trip
Traveling on a boat with other tourists isn’t usually my preferred way to explore, but to reach this remote part of Greenland, it was the only option. This, however, wasn’t your typical cruise. The ship was an icebreaker, capable of cutting through thick ice, allowing it to venture deep into the fjords of Northeast Greenland National Park where other ships couldn’t reach. The spirit of the trip was all about adventure. The guides emphasized that our goal was to discover new trails and kayaking routes, and every day brought fresh opportunities for wildlife viewing and exploration. I truly believe this is one of the most beautiful and wild places on the planet.
This was the general itinerary of my weeklong trip in Greenland:
Day 1/2: Cross the Greenland Sea from northern Svalbard to northeastern Greenland in the Arctic Ocean in a southwest current along the coast of Northeast Greenland. Often, drifting pack ice is pushed along the coast. We will attempt to approach and follow the pack ice edge to explore the polar seascape. Keep a lookout for sea mammals like seals and whales and also sea birds such as kittiwakes and fulmars.
Day 3-6: Sail through and land in some of the most spectacular fjord country in the world along down the coast of Greenland, while exploring rarely visited glaciers, bays and inlets. This is the largest national park in the world, nearly impossible to reach except on expedition ships. Spectacular geology combined with glacial features create steep mountains raising directly from the sea. Look out for picturesque scenery, wildlife and other interesting landing sites in this unspoiled wilderness. Depending on ice, spend these days exploring the massive fjord system of Northeast Greenland National Park, which includes portions of Scoresbysund. These intricate fjord systems are everything from wide and unimaginable to narrow and steeply spectacular with some of the best mountain scenery in the world. Walking over lush stands of colorful autumn tundra may lead to opportunities to see musk oxen grazing nearby.
Day 7/8: Enjoy the lecture series while watching the seas for whales. Head towards Iceland and the steaming hot springs of Reykjavík. The view is often complemented by soaring fulmars, kittiwakes, gannets, guillemots, and razorbills. Once in Reykivic, disembark and explore Iceland independantly.
Size of my boat at bottom in comparison to giant icebergs that broke of from the Greenland ice shield that covers most of its territory. I took this photo from a hike over the mountain.
Midnight from our boat
I was lucky to be surrounded by like-minded passengers, many around my age, all sharing a similar sense of adventure. We quickly bonded over the uniqueness of the experience, and I was grateful that there was no drama—just a great group of people who got along well. I shared a room with three other strangers in a small cabin with two bunk beds, and by the end of the trip, we were able to call one another friends. Having that camaraderie made the journey even more memorable.
Me on the right with some friends I met on the boat. We spent a lot of time on deck since the weather was pretty mild and sometimes we would even have dinner on deck so we could have more time to soak in the incredible views.
In this part of Greenland, I was told the weather tends to be clearer and sunnier due to high-pressure systems created by the vast ice sheet covering most of the island. This also creates ideal conditions for viewing the northern lights, especially in September. At night, when the lights appeared, the guides would make an announcement, and everyone would eagerly jump from mid-sleep, pull on their winter jackets, and rush to the ship’s deck. The dancing glow of the aurora was mesmerizing, but after a few minutes of taking in their beauty, I was more than ready to return to my warm bed.
Northern lights
The main attraction in Greenland was the breathtaking mountains, dramatically carved by the force of moving glaciers. Towering peaks surrounded bays filled with massive, floating icebergs—freshly calved from the glaciers that descended from the ice cap beyond the mountain ridges. These ice giants, some larger than our ship, floated in the bay, creating an unforgettable, awe-inspiring scene.
Greenland fjords
Entering a glacial bay
Kayaking in Greenland
Each day offered two optional kayaking trips, allowing us to explore fresh landscapes—some dotted with icebergs, others lined with secluded beaches and rugged shorelines. Our kayak guide continually scouted new routes, adding an extra element of exploration to each outing. We were always on alert for polar bears, which added both excitement and a bit of suspense to each journey. Ironically, on the one trip I chose to hike over a mountain instead of kayaking, the group encountered a polar bear swimming nearby. Though I missed that thrilling sighting, the overall adventure remained unforgettable.
Kayaking
Me and a friend from the boat kayaking
Me kayaking
Kayaking among icebergs
Thankfully, we kept our distance from a massive iceberg while kayaking, as we’d been warned not to get too close. Just minutes after we passed, the iceberg suddenly flipped over, creating a small wave that sent a surge toward us and threw shards of ice into the air. It was a dramatic reminder of the power of nature and the importance of respecting these icy giants from a safe distance.
Under an iceberg that flipped an hour later
Musk Oxen
The woolly mammoth-like muskoxen, adapted to the extreme northern latitudes, are unique to the Arctic regions of Canada and Greenland. In the mountain valleys of Northeast Greenland National Park, they find an ideal habitat, and spotting them grazing or moving through these rugged landscapes was a trip highlight. Their thick, woolly coats and impressive horns made them seem like ancient relics thriving in one of the world’s last true wildernesses.
On one unforgettable hike, a guide picked out a challenging mountain route using a topographical map, gathering a small team of experienced hikers—including myself—for an adventurous climb. We were dropped off by Zodiac on one side of the mountain, with the plan to bushwhack over the summit through muskoxen herds and potential polar bear territory, meeting the boat on the other side. This half-day expedition was as thrilling as I’d hoped. The scenery was spectacular, and at one point, we paused from a safe distance to watch bull muskoxen charge and crash their great, helmeted heads together in a raw display of power. We always maintained a respectful distance from these mighty creatures, well aware that if they felt threatened, they’d charge without hesitation.
Muskoxen
Muskoxen
Muskoxen
We spotted plenty of other wildlife as well, including snow hares already donning their winter-white fur, Arctic foxes, seals and an abundance of bird species. One of my favorites was the loon, which also happens to be Minnesota’s state bird. I recognized its solitary call instantly, and soon after, I was able to spot a few while kayaking. Interestingly, loons migrate as far north as Greenland during the summer before heading back south for winter.
Snowhare
Me on a hike overlooking the valley
One of our stops on the trip was to a Nazi listening post that had been destroyed during World War II. It was a stark reminder that no place in the world, no matter how remote, is untouched by the events of history. Even in the isolated wilderness of Greenland, remnants of past wars remain, and the ruins of this once-strategic site stood as a haunting testament to the far-reaching consequences of global conflict. It was a poignant moment on our journey, emphasizing the contrast between the peaceful, untouched beauty of the landscape and the dark history that had once impacted it.
A ruined Nazi spy outpost from WWII
Here are some more photos of the spectacular scenery in Greenland that I was fortunate enough to experience.
More scenery
Iceberg
Glacial Valley
Glacial Valley
Glacial Valley
Incredible scenery
World’s Most Isolated Village, Ittoqqortoormiit
During my week-long stay in Greenland, the only human settlement I encountered was the incredibly isolated Inuit village of Ittoqqortoormiit, one of the most remote villages in the world. Accessible only by boat during the summer months before ice blocks its path, this small, colorful wooden village felt like a foreign invasion when we arrived. It was clear that hunting was the heart of survival here. Polar bear and seal pelts hung outside homes to dry, making the most of the fading sunlight before winter. Wooden boats and dog sleds were common sights in front of houses, essential for hunting seals and bears.
The village seemed barely separated from the wilds of Northeast Greenland National Park, with glaciers spilling ice almost into people’s backyards. During our visit, a polar bear wandered into the corner of the village, and one of the villagers took a few passengers via ATV to see it. I was disappointed to miss that moment—I had been too busy walking around, taking photos, and observing the Inuit way of life. A highlight, however, was visiting a small church and a man’s home where he was raising dozens of huskies used for dog sledding in the winter. It was a fascinating glimpse into a lifestyle so closely tied to the harsh environment.
Ittoqqortoormiit-world’s most remote village
Ittoqqortoormiit -typical home. Houses are painted bright colors toto makemake them more visible in winter
Ittoqqortoormiit graveyard where the crosses all face towards the lifeblood of the people, the sea
Ittoqqortoormiit-polar bear pelt drying in sun
Ittoqqortoormiit -husky dog
Inuit man I met inside the local church
Ittoqqortoormiit -Inuit boy playing with his dog
As we left Ittoqqortoormiit on the boat, the entire crew had the chance to catch a glimpse of the polar bear that had been lingering at the edge of the village. The bear was smart enough to stay out of the village—knowing it would mean certain death—but seemed hungry enough to venture close to the settlement. From the ship, the bear appeared small, just a white dot moving across the rocky shoreline. Sadly, despite the hundreds of polar bears living in Northeast Greenland National Park, this would be the only one I would see on my trip—both in Greenland and Spitsbergen, two of the world’s top polar bear habitats. It was a bittersweet moment, knowing how elusive these creatures can be in such vast and wild landscapes.
Crossing to Iceland
Once the boat completed its journey in Iceland, I bid farewell to the new friends I had made during the adventure and rented a car to explore as much of the island as I could in one day before heading home. I was eager to see Iceland’s iconic landscapes—its dramatic waterfalls, volcanic terrain, and otherworldly scenery—knowing I had limited time but wanting to experience as much as possible. It was a whirlwind day, but a perfect way to cap off my incredible trip.
How Does Greenland Compare to Antarctica
It’s hard not to compare Greenland and Antarctica-Antarctica-Crossing the Violent Seas of the Drake Passage to Visit the World’s Last True Wilderness, An Icy Paradise Where Penguins, Seals and Whales Have No Fear of Humans | Venture The Planet—they’re both at the polar extremes of the Earth, frozen and remote, and yet they each offer a unique kind of beauty and a haven for rare wildlife. Greenland, unlike Antarctica, is part of Denmark, though it claims a significant degree of sovereignty. It’s an autonomous territory with control over many aspects of its governance, while still being part of the Kingdom of Denmark. In contrast, Antarctica is not claimed by any one country, and only scientists are allowed to live there, residing in research bases under the Antarctic Treaty.
The two regions are indeed very different, but if I had to choose which one is more beautiful, I would lean towards Greenland. It has a more varied landscape, with parts not entirely covered in ice, offering a blend of ice, rock, and Arctic greenery. The wildlife in Greenland, like polar bears, foxes, and muskoxen, is more diverse than in Antarctica, where the only mammals are marine animals such as leopard seals and killer whales.
Antarctica is incredibly remote, but northeastern Greenland is just as isolated. For days, we didn’t see another soul or even an airplane, since we were far above the usual flight paths between North America and Europe.
Choosing one over the other is difficult, as both places are stunning in their own right. I’m just grateful to have had the chance to visit both.