Ice Caves, Erupting Volcanoes and Trolls-Iceland

November 2024: Iceland’s wild beauty and rich folklore make it a captivating destination. It’s a land of erupting volcanoes, vast lava fields, dramatic mountain ranges shaped by massive ice caps, and endless Arctic coastlines. The Viking legends of hidden people, trolls, and gnomes living beneath rocks add a magical layer to the experience.

I’ve visited Iceland twice, though not as a primary destination, as I was initially put off by the large number of tourists. Iceland is especially popular with American visitors due to its accessibility, which is both a blessing and a curse. On the downside, millions of tourists flock there annually. However, most tend to stick to a few well-known spots, leaving much of the country’s pristine wilderness undisturbed and ripe for exploration.

This year, I decided to give Iceland the attention it deserves by spending a week traveling along the southern coast with Paula and Indie. Iceland is a perfect destination to visit with a baby—it’s both safe and exotic. By traveling in November, I hoped to encounter fewer tourists and finally experience one of the last types of caves I’ve yet to explore: the glacial ice cave.

Our five-day trip to Iceland began with an unforgettable sight: an erupting volcano visible from the airplane window as we approached the island. In all my travels, this was the first time I had ever witnessed such a dramatic natural event from above. After landing at Keflavík Airport, we picked up our rental car from Blue Car Rentals and were generously upgraded to a Land Cruiser, setting the tone for an adventure-packed trip. Over the next five days, we explored the stunning south of Iceland according to the following itinerary:

Day 1: Drive to Vík.
We spent our first day traveling to the picturesque town of Vík, known for its black sand beaches and dramatic cliffs.

Days 2-3: Drive to Jökulsárlón Lagoon and explore ice caves.
The highlight of these days was Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, with its stunning blue icebergs floating serenely in the water. I also ventured into mesmerizing ice caves, a truly otherworldly experience.

Day 4: Return to Vík and explore more ice caves.
Back in Vík, I continued my exploration of Iceland’s breathtaking ice caves, marveling at the intricate frozen formations.

Day 5: Visit Viking Cave and depart.
On our final day, we visited a Viking Cave before heading back to Keflavík for our afternoon flight to Minneapolis.

The route of the current trip and my previous trips to Iceland are highlighted in yellow below

Iceland’s history is as rugged and fascinating as its landscape. Long forgotten due to its isolation in the far northern Atlantic, the frozen island remained untouched by humans until the 800s when Norwegian Vikings began to settle there. Before the Vikings, wandering Irish monks were the first to set foot on its shores, drawn to its solitude for meditation. However, their peace was short-lived as the Vikings arrived, seeking refuge from poverty, feudalism, heavy taxes, and the bloody feuds of Norway. For the Vikings, Iceland represented a new promised land.

Few other cultures of the time possessed the seafaring skills or resilience required to conquer the treacherous North Atlantic, but the Vikings were uniquely equipped. Still, Iceland was a harsh and unforgiving place to settle, and taming its wild landscape proved an immense challenge. Even today, Iceland remains far from “tame.”

The island’s early settlers and their descendants have endured countless hardships: brutal winters leading to starvation, devastating volcanic eruptions, destructive earthquakes, and catastrophic glacial floods, known as jökulhlaups, which have wiped out entire villages. Yet, the people of Iceland have displayed remarkable perseverance, adapting to the land’s natural forces.

In recent years, Iceland has thrived, thanks to its robust fishing industry and a booming tourism sector that attracts millions of visitors eager to experience its unique natural wonders. The country’s success is a testament to the resilience of its people, shaped by centuries of overcoming the odds.

Almost half of Icelandic people believe in the possibility of hidden people. These mythical beings—such as trolls, gnomes, or elves—are said to live beneath rocks or mountains. According to Icelandic folklore, which is rooted in Norwegian traditions, hidden people coexist with humans in the natural world.

For most, these stories are likely just fun to entertain, but there are still those who genuinely believe. During our trip, we noticed signs of these folkloric beliefs, such as small houses built to signify areas where elves are thought to reside. These structures are meant to alert passersby to their presence and prevent offense to the elves, as offending them is believed to bring bad luck. In fact, these beliefs are taken so seriously that some new roads have been diverted to avoid disturbing “elven areas.”

Icelanders have a deep fondness for their trolls and gnomes. Troll and gnome dolls are especially popular during Christmas, and we saw many festive gnome decorations in the restaurants where we dined. We even purchased some beautifully handcrafted gnome figurines as souvenirs to bring home.

Drangurinn is a giant boulder, located on Drangshlíð farm. According to Icelandic folklore, its caves are believed to be home to elves protecting livestock

Indie with her troll face next to a Christmas troll in a restaurant we ate at in Hofn

In addition to stories about hidden people, Iceland is rich with tales of ghosts and haunted places. Norwegians, of which Icelanders are descended, have a deep love for ghost stories, and my grandpa was no exception. I was told he loved sharing spooky tales around the bonfire on the shores of Lake Superior.

Many places in Iceland are believed to be haunted, like the cave we visited on the road to Vík. This particular cave is said to be haunted by the spirits of sailors who drowned in the nearby ocean. Adding to its eerie reputation, the ferns growing inside the cave are believed to bring bad luck—or even death—to anyone who picks them. Naturally, I made sure Indie kept her hands away from those ferns!

Indie and Paula inside the haunted Steinahellir Cave

In Minnesota, a state with a large Scandinavian population, black licorice is a popular treat and was one of my favorite childhood candies. In Iceland, black licorice is equally beloved, but they’ve taken it a step further. We noticed it being sold everywhere, especially in gas stations, but what stood out was its unique presentation—black licorice inside a chocolate bar.

This combination is a popular snack in Iceland, as I later learned, and something I don’t recall encountering anywhere else in my travels. It’s a surprising yet delicious twist on a classic treat!

I had previously been to Iceland twice, both times in the late summer month of September—first in 2012 and then in 2018. Both trips were only one or two days long and didn’t give Iceland the attention it deserved. My first visit was part of an adventure boat trip from Greenland and Svalbard, where I first laid eyes on Iceland via its tallest cliffs, the Látrabjarg Cliffs, which rise 1,447 feet high. Afterward, we docked for the night outside of Reykjavík. The next morning, I rented a car and explored the stark, empty beauty of the Reykjanes Peninsula, with its geothermal activity and endless lava fields.

During my second visit in 2018, I spent two days in Iceland as part of a longer trip to the Faroe Islands with my friend Frank. Like my previous trip, I rented a car and drove to Reykjavík to explore some of its highlights and sample Icelandic cuisine, including pickled Greenland shark and whale meat. From there, I continued to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula and parts of the Golden Circle.

A highlight of this trip was visiting the otherworldly, Lord of the Rings-like Krýsuvíkurberg lava cliffs at night. The extended twilight allowed us to take in the dramatic landscape completely alone—there wasn’t another soul in sight. The lava fields stretched endlessly, with no houses or lights to break the horizon. While these cliffs are normally populated by puffins, we didn’t spot any during our visit.

From there, we drove all night to see as much of the Golden Circle as possible, taking advantage of the long hours of twilight and the lack of tourists during off-peak hours. We visited Geysir, the powerful Gullfoss Falls, and the Kerið volcanic crater. As with my first visit, I also tried to visit the Blue Lagoon but decided against it, finding the entry fee too expensive.

I left Iceland both times wishing I had more time to explore. Its stark, rugged beauty and unique landscapes deserve far more attention than I was able to give them during these short visits.

Bow of my boat before the Latrabjarg Cliffs-tallest cliffs in Iceland

Reykjavik cathedral with Giant Statue of Viking Founder and discoverer of North America, Leif Erickson

Volcanic scenery mosses and lichens growing on lava rock along the Reykjanes Peninsula

Otherworldly scenery of Reykjanes Peninsula/hot springs

Desolation of the Krysuvikurbjarg lava cliffs

Famous geyser that all other geysers are named after

Gullfoss Falls

Me at Gullfoss Falls

As always, I found a way to combine international travel with other aspects of life, and this time was no different. I wanted to visit my family in Minneapolis, Minnesota, so they could spend time with our daughter, Indie, during Thanksgiving break. Since Icelandair offers a direct flight from Minneapolis that’s only 5-6 hours long, we decided to turn our Minnesota trip into an opportunity for a five-day adventure in Iceland.

I had some reservations about visiting Iceland in late November, given the potential for severe winter weather and the limited daylight hours. However, I’d been wanting to return to Iceland to see the glacial ice caves, a sight that can only be explored safely in the winter. This was the perfect opportunity to check it off my list.

Our trip was almost canceled when a volcano near the airport erupted just days before our departure. A river of lava from the eruption destroyed the parking lot of the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most iconic attraction, forcing it to close indefinitely. Fortunately, the volcano posed no threat to air travel or the airport itself, so we were able to continue with our plans.

The added thrill of seeing an erupting volcano—even from a mile or so away—was an unforgettable experience. While we couldn’t get closer, the sight of molten lava flowing against Iceland’s icy landscape made our trip all the more special.

Newly erupting volcano

In recent years, the Reykjanes Peninsula has become a hotspot for volcanic activity, with new eruptions occurring every year or so. These eruptions often emerge from previously unknown fissures, spewing lava into the air and sometimes threatening towns like Grindavík or cutting off roads across the peninsula. While they’ve caused evacuations and earthquakes that have tormented local residents, the eruptions have also been a boon for tourism. Helicopter tours of the active volcanoes have been selling like hotcakes.

We would have booked one of these tours ourselves, but most did not allow infants. Instead, we stopped to watch the eruption from a highway turnoff near the former road to the Blue Lagoon, which authorities had closed due to the lava flow. We weren’t alone—many others had gathered to witness the mesmerizing sight of lava erupting into the sky.

I desperately wanted to go beyond the barricades and hike a few miles over the lava rocks to reach a closer viewpoint, but this was, of course, both risky and illegal. More importantly, it wasn’t the kind of adventure suitable for a trip with a baby. However, it’s exactly the sort of thing I would have done during a solo trip.

Newly erupting volcano

Iceland is both remote and known for its severe winter weather, so the key to a successful trip—especially when traveling with a baby in winter—is thorough preparation. I knew from the start that even in summer, Iceland can be freezing, so it would undoubtedly be cold in late November. Snow, whiteout conditions on remote roads, strong winds capable of ripping a vehicle door off its hinges, and freezing rain creating slick surfaces were all possibilities we had to consider.

To prepare, I booked an SUV with all-wheel drive and studded tires. We were fortunate to be upgraded to a Land Cruiser with 4-wheel drive, which was the best-case scenario for winter driving. I also opted for portable Wi-Fi and free roadside assistance, ensuring we would always have internet access, GPS, and help in case of car trouble.

We packed our suitcases to the brim with warm clothes, thermal layers, and a warm sleeping bag in case of a prolonged breakdown. As a final backup, I brought my Garmin GPS, which I activated before the trip. This allowed us to send an SOS for assistance if our car flipped over or veered off-road into an inaccessible location.

Thankfully, we experienced relatively mild weather during the trip—freezing but manageable—and the driving went smoothly.

Paula and Indie bundled up for winter travel

From the airport, it’s a three-hour drive to the southernmost town of Vík, a small community with only a few thousand residents. Nestled on the shoreline beneath the looming heights of the ice-capped and cloud-shrouded Katla Volcano, Vík feels both remote and awe-inspiring.

Along the way, there were plenty of places to visit, waterfalls, historical sites, elven houses, and volcanic landscapes but I had to be selective with our stops due to the limited daylight hours (9:30 AM to 3:30 PM) and the sheer abundance of sights to see. The further south we drove, the more desolate the scenery became, with dramatic mountains rising starkly against the rugged landscape. More often than not, we would just see something amazing on the side of the road and stop to take a few photos.

Majestic Icelandic horses that look more like ponies because they are smaller, a common site on the side of the road. These ponies are purebred. 

Majestic Icelandic horses that look more like ponies because they are smaller, a common site on the side of the road. These ponies are purebred. 

View of Westmen islands, where a few decades a a surprise volcanic eruption in the middle of the biggest town of the island decimating this town and its people

Seljalandsfoss

Skógafoss falls

Dyrholaey Cliffs

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

Small  Church

Village at the base of Katla Volcano

Behind the town of Vík, beneath the massive Mýrdalsjökull glacier, lurks the colossal volcano Katla. Towering at 5,000 feet with a caldera spanning six miles, Katla has a long and violent history of eruptions. It has erupted, on average, every 60 years and is now considered about 40 years overdue for another.

The last major eruption occurred in the early 1900s, unleashing a catastrophic flood of glacial meltwater that swept through Vík and the surrounding areas with tsunami-like force, claiming many lives. Experts fear that when Katla erupts again, history will repeat itself. With a larger population and a growing influx of tourists in the region, the loss of life could be devastating.

The drive from Vík to Jökulsárlón Lagoon was my favorite part of the trip. This stretch was both desolate and awe-inspiring, offering constant views of majestic mountains, rugged lava fields, a dramatic coastline, and two massive ice caps. The first ice cap crowns the Katla volcano, while the second, Vatnajökull, is the largest in Iceland, covering nearly one-tenth of the island.

Along the way, the green moss-covered lava rocks of Eldhraun served as a somber reminder of the cataclysmic eruption in the 1700s. This devastating event nearly wiped out Iceland’s population and forever altered the landscape.

With so much breathtaking scenery, the day felt far too short to take in all the potential stops. We had to choose carefully and ultimately decided to hike in Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, a stunning location that made the journey even more unforgettable.

Village at the base of Katla Volcano

Eldhraun lava field 

Eldhraun lava field 

Fjadrargljufur canyon

Fjadrargljufur canyon

In the southeast of Iceland lies the massive Vatnajökull ice cap, which also covers another active volcanic giant. Vatnajökull is enormous, spanning approximately one-tenth of the country and stretching over 100 miles in length. Surrounding it are towering, majestic mountains, with glaciers cascading over their peaks in breathtaking displays.

One of the best places to experience the grandeur of Vatnajökull is Jökulsárlón Lagoon. Here, massive icebergs that have calved from the glaciers float serenely in the lagoon, creating a surreal and otherworldly landscape. Nearby, the black volcanic sand beaches glisten with diamond-like ice formations, offering a striking contrast that makes this area a true wonder of nature.

We stayed at a hotel near Jökulsárlón Lagoon, less than 10 kilometers away, set in a majestic and remote location overlooking the glacier. The hotel featured two outdoor hot tubs, where I sat with fellow travelers, enjoying a beer while exchanging stories about our shared love for Iceland. The sweeping views during the day were incredible, and at night, we were treated to the ethereal dance of the northern lights—a truly unforgettable experience.

Paula and Indie at sunset looking at the lagoon

Icebergs at sunset

Glacial icebergs

Paula, Indie and I

Indie sitting on a large chunk of ice on the volcanic ash beach

Great Glacier Viewpoint at Svínafellsjökull útsýnisstaður

Our hotel room with a great view

I have been exploring caves of all types around the world for decades, venturing into some of the planet’s wildest places. My adventures have taken me scuba diving in underwater caves, rappelling over a thousand feet into pit caves, exploring caves rumored to have been carved by aliens, and trekking through mud and volcanic caves. Yet one type of cave had always eluded me: a glacial ice cave.

Glacial ice caves are rare, often inaccessible, and typically illegal or too dangerous to explore. However, Iceland is home to some of the most accessible ice caves in the world. This relatively new phenomenon began only about 15 years ago, when an ice-climbing guide started taking professional photographers into these dazzling formations. Initially deemed too hazardous for mainstream tourism, the caves gained attention through social media, sparking widespread interest. It wasn’t long before guided tours became available, and today, Iceland’s ice caves are among the country’s most popular attractions.

These natural wonders are unpredictable and must be respected, as they can turn deadly in an instant. Tragically, this was demonstrated last summer when an ice wall collapsed, killing a man and nearly taking the life of his pregnant wife. Winter is the only relatively safe time to visit ice caves, and I planned my trip accordingly. Another consequence of the fatal accident is that Iceland’s ice caves are now more strictly regulated by the government. Only ice caves inspected by Vatnajökull National Park authorities and deemed safe can be entered by tourists. According to guides I spoke to, this regulation has made it challenging for them to take visitors to more remote caves. As a result, the same caves are often visited by multiple groups, making them more crowded.

I was fortunate to visit ice caves in both the Katla region and the Vatnajökull glacier within Vatnajökull National Park. While both types of caves are formed in glaciers, they are remarkably different. The Katla ice caves are embedded with volcanic ash from past eruptions of the Katla volcano. This ash gives the caves a striking, ash-gray hue and stabilizes the ice, allowing these caves to remain open even during the summer months.

In contrast, the ice caves in the Vatnajökull glacier are composed of pure, untainted ice, resulting in vivid, spectacular blue hues. Constantly reshaped by rainwater, glacial meltwater, and wind, these caves evolve every year. Entrances and exits shift, and the internal structures transform after every rainy season. 

Climbing the glacier/Vatnajökull National park 

I chose a day-long trip to the ice caves in Vatnajökull National Park that included exploring multiple caves and hiking with crampons across a glacier. This turned out to be a great choice, as it allowed for more time on the ice while other tourists started heading back to their hotels. My small group had the rare privilege of enjoying two caves entirely to ourselves and shared a large cave with only one other small group—an excellent way to immerse in nature and avoid the crowds.

Me in a small canyon on the glacier/Vatnajökull National Park 

My guide in the ice cave/Vatnajökull National park 

Guide preparing rope in the ice cave

My group entering one of the larger ice caves/Vatnajökull National park 

Top of the ice cave

Me in the ice cave/Vatnajökull National park 

Inside an ice cave 

Guide Inspecting the ice

Ice cave exploring Vatnajökull National park 

My group exiting one of the larger ice caves/Vatnajökull National park 

For the Katla ice cave, I booked the last trip of the day, which also turned out to be an excellent decision. My small group had the entire cave to ourselves, creating an eerie and serene experience. To make the adventure even more memorable, we had the chance to feed a wild Arctic fox that our guide mentioned only visits at night after the tourists leave. Surprisingly, the fox’s favorite treat was bananas, which our guide regularly feeds it.

Driving over volcanic ash to get to katla Ice Cave

Guide at katla

Katla Ice Cave

Katla Ice Cave

On our last day, we visited one of Iceland’s few man-made caves, located in the town of Hella on our way back to Reykjavik. These caves, dating back to Iceland’s early settlement years, are relatively small, consisting of just a few rooms carved into the rock.

One particularly fascinating room featured a cross etched into the wall. Historians believe this room served as a Christian place of worship, possibly used by Irish monks. These monks, thought to be among the first people to land in Iceland, are said to have sought the island’s solitude for meditation and devotion to God.

Exploring these caves offered a quiet glimpse into the spiritual history of Iceland’s earliest inhabitants and was a unique contrast to the natural wonders we had experienced throughout the trip.

One of the cave chambers sued as a church during ancient times

Indie and I in the cave