Arrival in Bahrain: A Gulf Journey Through Contrasts
September 2022: After wrapping up an intense two-week journey through Qatar and Taliban-controlled Afghanistan, my friend John and I arrived in Bahrain. Despite its proximity to Qatar—another oil-rich Gulf kingdom—traveling directly between the two was impossible due to a longstanding territorial dispute over an island. The fallout from this disagreement severed diplomatic ties, halting direct flights, ferries, and even the construction of a proposed bridge between the nations. As a result, we had to route through Dubai, flying into Bahrain on Gulf Air.
As our plane descended toward Manama, the aerial view was stunning. Below us, untouched white-sand islands shimmered in the Persian Gulf, surrounded by vibrant coral reefs, completely devoid of development. In stark contrast, we also saw the sprawling artificial islands Bahrain has created through extensive dredging, a common practice among Gulf nations to reclaim land from the sea. As we drew closer to the capital, the landscape shifted—miles of refineries, oil cargo ship docks, and industrial complexes lined the coast, a testament to Bahrain’s role in the global oil industry.
First Impressions: A Military Assumption
Upon clearing immigration, we were immediately met with an unexpected question: “Are you in the U.S. Navy?” The officer’s assumption wasn’t entirely unfounded—Bahrain is home to one of the largest U.S. Navy bases overseas, and foreign visitors outside of business travelers are still a rarity. It was clear that young Western men traveling independently were more often military personnel than tourists in their eyes.
Manama’s Heat and the Oasis of a Mall
We checked into the Hilton, a sleek waterfront hotel offering views of the ocean and the downtown harbor. Thanks to the strength of the U.S. dollar, even luxury hotels in the Gulf were surprisingly affordable. Eager to explore, we stepped outside—only to be immediately overwhelmed by the suffocating, humid heat. The sun was relentless, and the streets were empty, as if the entire city had retreated indoors.
Seeking refuge, we found ourselves inside a massive, air-conditioned shopping mall connected to our hotel. Normally, I avoid malls when traveling, preferring the pulse of street life and local markets. But this was different. The mall was more than just a place to shop—it was a social hub, an architectural marvel of polished marble floors, dazzling storefronts, and exotic luxury. In the Gulf, malls aren’t just about consumerism; they are gathering places where locals escape the brutal climate, strolling the grand hallways in flowing abayas and thobes.
Despite my usual aversion to shopping malls, I found myself genuinely enamored by the scene. It was a glimpse into modern Gulf culture—an intersection of wealth, leisure, and climate-driven adaptation.
Location of Bahrain
Bahrain: The Island Kingdom of Contrasts
Bahrain, a cluster of islands with a landmass slightly larger than Singapore, is one of the world’s smallest countries—and the smallest in the Persian Gulf. Unlike some of its oil-rich neighbors, Bahrain’s prosperity isn’t derived from vast petroleum reserves but rather from its crude oil refining industry and a thriving financial sector. It was also the final country I visited in Asia to complete my United Nations country list.
Ruled by a king, Bahrain leaves little room for forgetfulness on that front—his portraits are omnipresent, adorning hotels, government buildings, and even the sides of skyscrapers. With a high per capita income, the country relies heavily on foreign labor, a trend common across the Gulf. While its ruling class is Sunni, the majority of its Arab citizens belong to the Shi’a sect of Islam, a demographic divide that has shaped much of its political and social landscape.
Manama: A City of Rising Ambitions
The capital, Manama, is a sprawling, meticulously clean city—refreshingly free of the litter that plagues many urban centers in the Middle East. Sleek high-rises with striking architectural designs continue to reshape its skyline as Bahrain aggressively seeks foreign investment to diversify its economy beyond oil.
Manama’s setting along the shores of the Persian Gulf is undeniably beautiful. The waters shimmer in shades of blue and green, warm year-round in this sun-scorched region. But by day, the city can feel unwelcoming, its streets blanketed in dust and battered by an almost surreal level of heat—especially in the long summer months when the temperatures defy human tolerance.
By night, however, Manama transforms. The city lights flicker to life, casting reflections on the waterfront, and the oppressive heat softens into a warm breeze. The streets fill with energy, and the once-harsh landscape takes on a magical allure, offering a glimpse into the modern and ambitious Bahrain that continues to carve out its place in the Gulf.
A Glimpse into Bahraini Life at the Mall
Walking through the sprawling shopping mall, I found it to be more than just an escape from the heat—it was a window into Bahraini daily life. Local men in crisp white dishdashas and women in flowing hijabs strolled leisurely, their presence a seamless blend of tradition and modernity. The air was thick with the intoxicating scent of high-end perfumes, sold at kiosks manned mostly by Filipinos, a reminder of the Gulf’s dependence on foreign labor. Alongside the perfume, the warm, rich aroma of burning incense filled the corridors, creating an ambiance that was uniquely Middle Eastern.
In the center of it all, a small passenger toy train wound its way through the mall, ferrying delighted children past storefronts of luxury brands and international chains. Suddenly, the call to prayer echoed over the intercom, a serene reminder of Bahrain’s deep-rooted Islamic culture—a stark contrast to the commercial buzz surrounding us.
Despite being in a conservative Middle Eastern country, I was surprised to see a lingerie boutique nestled among high-end fashion stores and designer purse shops. Most of the retail staff were Filipino, a common sight in the Gulf’s retail and service industries. American fast-food chains were abundant, offering everything from pizza to fried chicken, but after ten days in Afghanistan, John and I gravitated toward the comforting indulgence of Shake Shack. Burgers, fries, and thick milkshakes had never tasted so good.
Inside of the cool large halls with blasting cool A/C of a shopping mall
Inside an Elegant Store that appeared more like the inside of the Versailles Palace instead of a retail store
A Ride to Ancient History
Refreshed and refueled, we hailed a taxi to visit Bahrain Fort, or Qal’at al-Bahrain, an 3,000-year-old ancient stronghold built by the Dilmun civilization. Little is known about the Dilmun people beyond references in ancient Sumerian records, making their history a mystery shrouded in time.
Our driver was a fast-talking hustler, eager to upsell us on additional sightseeing stops along the way. But the rush hour traffic was brutal, turning what should have been a short ride into a stop-and-go crawl.
Located near the waterfront, Bahrain Fort stood in stark contrast to the gleaming skyline of modern Manama. The towering stone walls, bathed in the golden hues of the setting sun, were a reminder of Bahrain’s long and layered history—one that stretches far beyond its current role as a financial hub of the Gulf.
John in front of the skyline
Qal’at al-Bahrain-Bahrain Fort
Me Inside an Archway in the Fort
Sunset at Bahrain Fort
The present fort, dating back to 600 AD, has seen countless rulers—from the Kassites and Greeks to the Persians and Portuguese—each leaving their mark on Bahrain’s history.
As we walked the fort’s grounds, we noticed it was mostly locals enjoying the cooler late afternoon temperatures. From the weathered stone walls, we watched the sun dip below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the landscape.
Returning to our hotel, we took a stroll along the harbor, admiring Manama’s striking skyline—its modern, uniquely designed towers reflecting beautifully over the calm waters of the Gulf.
Fort Walls
Sunset Over the Fort Walls
Downtown Skyline
Farewell to Bahrain
The next morning, we wrapped up our two-week journey—mostly spent in Afghanistan and Pakistan, with brief stops in Bahrain, Qatar, and Dubai—and boarded our long flight home on Saudi Airlines.
Manama’s airport, like the city itself, was spotless and well-organized, reflecting the country’s polished and modern appeal. Though my time in Bahrain was short, I left impressed by its beauty, tranquility, and effortless blend of tradition and progress.