Reevaluating the UAE: Beyond the Glitz and Glamour
I admit that the United Arab Emirates (UAE) has never been my favorite destination in the Gulf. Compared to Oman, Saudi Arabia, or Yemen, it always felt too decadent, too artificial, and lacking the deeper cultural authenticity that I seek in my travels. For years, I struggled to look past the superficiality of its towering skyscrapers and luxury-driven lifestyle.
However, over time, I’ve learned to appreciate the UAE for what it is—a country that, while vastly different from its neighbors, has its own unique appeal. Beneath the opulence, there are pockets of tradition, innovation, and unexpected charm, making it a place that, while not my first choice, still offers something worth experiencing.
Location of United Arab Emirates
Finding Value in the UAE: A Gateway and a Destination
Despite my initial reservations about the UAE, I’ve come to appreciate what it offers, especially after more rugged travels—like my recent 10-day journey through Afghanistan. One of the biggest draws? Unmatched amenities at incredibly affordable prices, making it a comfortable place to recharge before heading back into more challenging destinations.
Additionally, Dubai’s role as a major transportation hub makes it an essential launching point into Asia and Africa. For decades, I’ve used it as a stopover or base, taking advantage of its well-connected airports, modern infrastructure, and convenience.
As a result, I’ve visited Dubai multiple times. Rather than detailing every trip, I’ll highlight a few extraordinary places I’ve explored in the UAE—experiences that have helped me see the country in a different light.
Best Infinity Pool
Luxury and Views: My Stay at SLS Dubai
On my most recent trip to Dubai in August 2022, I stayed at SLS Dubai, a five-star hotel boasting an infinity pool on the 75th floor with breathtaking 360-degree views of the city skyline, including the iconic Burj Khalifa.
I’ve always been a sucker for infinity pools, and the moment I saw this one, I knew it was the perfect place to recover after my long journey through Afghanistan. In fact, I chose the hotel primarily for the pool—a well-deserved reward after weeks of rugged travel.
The only downside? No DSLR photography allowed. The staff informed me that a permit was required, restricting guests to cell phone photography only—a minor annoyance, but nothing that could take away from the unmatched views and relaxation the pool provided.
Me Swimming in the Infinity Pool on Top of the SLS Dubai Hotel
1st Alcoholic Drinks in Weeks After Afghanistan and Pakistan
Me Swimming laps in with a View
Surfing in a Wave Generating Pool in the Desert City of Al Ain
Desert Surfing in Al Ain: Catching Perfect Waves in the UAE
In November 2012, a friend—an Emirates pilot living in Dubai—and I set off on a road trip across the UAE and into Oman. One of our favorite stops was the desert oasis city of Al Ain, where we couldn’t resist visiting Wadi Adventure, a newly opened wave pool capable of generating head-high waves.
As surfers, the opportunity to book the pool for three hours at an unbelievably affordable rate was too good to pass up. The package included surfboard rentals, but before hitting the waves, we had to take a mandatory lesson—ironically, from a young Filipina instructor who had only recently learned to surf herself.
The Perfect Wave—Again and Again
Once cleared, we had two full hours to catch as many waves as we wanted. Since each wave was identical in size and timing—and we had zero competition in the water—we surfed dozens of waves back-to-back until we were completely exhausted but exhilarated. Surprisingly, despite being artificial, the experience was far more fun than I had expected.
Surfing Under the Desert Night Sky
As a bonus, we got to surf at night, with the rugged desert mountains forming a dramatic, almost surreal backdrop. It was one of those only-in-the-Middle-East experiences—riding waves deep in the desert under the stars.
The Only Downside? An Ear Infection from Hell
Unfortunately, I left with more than just good memories. Water got trapped in my left ear, refusing to drain for weeks. This led to a nasty ear infection, which wouldn’t have been a big deal—except I had a two-week journey across East Africa ahead of me. Surfing in the desert? Amazing. Traveling with an ear infection? Absolutely miserable.
Surfing the Wave Pool
View of the Wave Pool from the Distance
Al Ain: A Glimpse into the Traditional UAE
Beyond surfing, Al Ain is one of the most interesting places to visit in the UAE. Situated on the edge of a vast desert, it offers a stark contrast to the glitz and modernity of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Here, you can experience a more traditional side of the Emirates, with opportunities to explore local markets, historic sites, and daily life away from the tourist hotspots.
One of my most memorable experiences in Al Ain was visiting a local market, where Emiratis in traditional clothing gathered to buy food and daily essentials. It was one of the few places in the UAE where I saw a significant number of native Emiratis out in public, giving me a rare and authentic glimpse into their everyday lives.
In a country where expats vastly outnumber locals, these moments felt like a true window into the culture of the Emirates, making Al Ain a destination worth exploring—beyond just the waves.
Market Place-Souq
Beduin Women with the Traditional Beak on her Hijab to conceal the Shape of Her Face
View Over Al Ain from the Tallest peak in the Area
Skiing Indoors in a Shopping Mall
Snow Skiing in the Desert: The Surreal Experience of Ski Dubai
Ski Dubai is undoubtedly one of the most surreal experiences in the UAE. The idea of skiing inside a shopping mall while it’s scorching hot outside is something that could only exist in Dubai, where abundant energy and limitless ambition make such extravagance possible.
Surprisingly, the indoor ski hill is quite large, complete with a ski lift, artificial snowfall, and a slope long enough to actually feel like a real ski run. It’s not the Alps, but for an artificial mountain inside a mall, it’s impressive.
What stood out most was how well-equipped the facility is—everything from skis to jackets is available for rent on-site, which makes sense since no one packs winter gear for a trip to the Middle East. The result? A hilariously uniformed army of skiers, all dressed in identical rental outfits, navigating the artificial slopes in the middle of the desert.
It was bizarre, unnecessary, and completely over-the-top—and yet, somehow, exactly what you’d expect from Dubai.
Me Skiing in Ski Dubai on My First Trip to Dubai-11/2007
View of Ski Hill from Outside the Mall of Emirates
My friends Dan and Tim on a different trip at ski Dubai-3/2017
Some local girls I met in the Mall of Emirates during one ski trip
Manmade Palm Tree Shaped Islands and the 6 Star Burj Al Arab Hotel
Staying on Palm Jumeirah: A Front-Row View of Dubai’s Luxury
In November 2012, during our UAE and Oman road trip, I stayed with my Emirates pilot friend, Evan, who was based in Dubai at the time. His home was located on Palm Jumeirah, the man-made island shaped like a palm tree—one of Dubai’s most ambitious and extravagant developments.
From his place, he had an incredible view of the Burj Al Arab, the world-famous sail-shaped hotel, often dubbed a “six-star” luxury destination. Even in a city known for opulence, the Burj Al Arab stands out as a symbol of Dubai’s over-the-top ambition, and waking up to that iconic view was a surreal reminder of just how excessive and futuristic this place can be.
View from my friend’s place on the manmade Palm Jumeirah-palm tree shaped island
Palm Tree Shaped Manmade Island view from above
Burj Al Arab Hotel-too expensive for me