Puerto Rico: The Island That Was Missing
After visiting every independent country in the Caribbean and numerous other unique islands, I felt like I couldn’t say my journey in the Caribbean was complete without visiting one of its largest islands — the U.S. territory of Puerto Rico.
A Familiar Yet Different Destination
Puerto Rico has had an enormous influence on American culture, from music and food to language and migration. Despite that connection, it still felt like an important piece of the Caribbean I hadn’t yet experienced firsthand.
One thing that felt strange about the trip was how easy it was to get there. Flying deep into the Caribbean without needing a passport felt unusual after years of international travel.
All I needed to board the flight was my driver’s license.
Location of the Bio Bay
A Long Weekend in Puerto Rico
With an expiring airline credit, I decided to fly out to Puerto Rico for a long weekend with one main goal in mind: to see the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay on Vieques — something I had wanted to experience for nearly two decades.
Two Places I Had to See
The first was Mosquito Bay, famous for being the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. Tiny organisms in the water glow bright blue when disturbed, creating an almost surreal effect as paddles, fish, or even hands move through the water.
The second place on my list was Old San Juan, one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the Americas. With its colorful colonial buildings, cobblestone streets, and massive Spanish fortresses overlooking the Atlantic, it represents centuries of Caribbean history.
Vieques Island
Abandoned boat on Vieques island
Journey to Vieques
To reach Vieques, I first took an Uber across Puerto Rico and then boarded a public ferry for the short crossing to the island.
Vieques immediately felt different from the mainland — quieter, more rugged, and far less developed.
Exploring by ATV
Once on the island, I rented a motorized ATV so I could explore the rough interior. Large parts of the island were once controlled by the U.S. military and used as a bombing and training range for decades, from the 1940s until the Navy withdrew in 2003.
At one point, the military controlled roughly two-thirds of the island, using the eastern side for live bombing exercises and weapons training.
Driving through the interior on the ATV, the landscape felt wild and remote — dirt roads winding through scrub forest, empty beaches, and old restricted areas that only recently reopened after the military left.
It gave the island a unique feeling: beautiful Caribbean scenery layered with a complex and sometimes dark history.
My ATV rental
Rugged beauty of the island
Oldest Spanish lighthouse in Puerto Rico
Oldest Spanish lighthouse in Puerto Rico
The Bioluminescent Bay
At 9:30 p.m., the moon finally set, and it was time to head out for the bio bay tour on Mosquito Bay on the island of Vieques.
The lagoon is connected to the ocean but remains mostly isolated, creating the perfect environment for bioluminescent plankton to thrive. These tiny organisms — called dinoflagellates — glow bright blue whenever the water around them is disturbed.
Kayaking Through the Light
I joined a kayaking trip that ran from 9:30 p.m. until midnight. We paddled through the calm lagoon in transparent kayaks, gliding quietly through the darkness.
Every movement of the paddle ignited the water beneath us. Trails of electric blue light followed each stroke, and small fish darting below the surface left glowing streaks behind them.
Looking down through the clear kayak, it felt as if we were floating above a sky full of stars — except the stars were in the water, sparkling bright blue beneath us.
It was every bit as magical as I had imagined after wanting to see it for nearly twenty years.
Kayaking in the Bio-Bay
Return to Old San Juan
After one night on Vieques, I returned by ferry to San Juan.
I stayed in Old San Juan, checking into a beautiful old hotel set inside a historic building overlooking the ocean and the massive stone fortress walls that protect the city.
A City Steeped in History
Old San Juan is one of the oldest European-founded cities in the Americas, with colorful colonial buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and centuries-old fortifications rising above the Atlantic. Walking through the old town feels like stepping into another era, where Spanish colonial architecture and Caribbean life blend together along the edge of the sea.
Old Spanish Fort
Pro-Puerto Rican Independence Street Art
Puerto Ricans flying kites and having picnics on a Sunday near the old fort
Old Fort
Old Fort
Old Fort
Old Fort
A Unique Hotel in the Old City
My hotel was especially unique, blending Spanish colonial character with touches of French charm in the heart of Old San Juan.
The building itself felt historic — thick walls, old balconies, and tall windows looking out toward the ocean and the ancient fortress walls that surround San Juan. Inside, the décor mixed Caribbean colors with elegant European touches, giving the place a relaxed but timeless feel.
Staying there made it easy to imagine what life in the old city might have been like centuries ago, when ships sailed into the harbor and the fortifications protected one of Spain’s most important ports in the Caribbean.
Hotel Garden
One of the many creepy statues at my hotel
A Morning Walk to the Graveyard
On the morning of my final day, before flying home, I woke up early to explore the old graveyard just outside the historic walls of Old San Juan.
A Cemetery Above the Ocean
The cemetery, Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, sits dramatically on a narrow strip of land overlooking the Atlantic Ocean beside the massive stone walls of Castillo San Felipe del Morro.
Rows of white tombs and mausoleums stretch out toward the sea, many decorated with crosses and statues weathered by centuries of salty wind. Walking through the cemetery in the quiet morning light, with waves crashing below the cliffs, felt peaceful and reflective — a calm final moment before beginning the journey home.
Roosters in the graveyard
Old Graveyard
Old graveyard
Reflections on Puerto Rico
I really enjoyed my time in Puerto Rico, especially San Juan, and the island exceeded my expectations in many ways. The combination of history, culture, and beautiful scenery made it a fascinating place to explore.
Comparing the Caribbean’s Great Latin Islands
That said, if I had to compare Puerto Rico with the other two major Latin islands in the Caribbean — Dominican Republic and Cuba — I would still choose Cuba as my personal favorite.
There is something about Cuba’s atmosphere, history, and character that feels especially unique in the Caribbean. Still, Puerto Rico was a memorable experience and an important island to finally visit after so many years of traveling through the region.