Volcanic Hill Top Villages and Friendly People of My Final African Country 54/54-Cabo Verde

Cabo Verde & the Azores: A Birthday Trip and a Milestone

January 2023 – Celebrating Paula and Completing My African Journey

For Paula’s birthday, we traveled to the stunning Portuguese-speaking islands of Cabo Verde and the Azores—a seamless trip made possible by direct SATA Airlines flights from Boston and between the islands. Beyond the celebration, this journey marked a personal milestone: Cabo Verde became my 54th and final African country.

20 Years, 54 Countries, One Incredible Continent

My journey through Africa began in 2002 with a trip to Egypt. At the time, I never imagined I’d one day explore every nation on the continent—from Saharan deserts to equatorial jungles, savannas, and tribal heartlands.

Each country brought unforgettable moments, deep lessons, and encounters that changed how I see the world.

Grateful for the Journey

As I stood on the beach in Cabo Verde, I reflected on two decades of travel. Africa has given me more than adventure—it’s given me perspective, purpose, and connection.

This chapter is complete, but my African travels with never end.

Cabo Verde: Where Africa Meets the Atlantic

A Cultural Crossroads Born of Volcanic Islands and Colonial History

Located about 600 miles off the west coast of Africa, Cabo Verde is a striking volcanic archipelago with no indigenous population prior to its Portuguese discovery in the 1460s. Soon after settlement, the islands became a critical transatlantic slave trade stopover, funneling enslaved Africans to Brazil and other Portuguese colonies. While most were transported onward, many remained to labor on the islands’ plantations.

Over generations, Cabo Verde’s people emerged as a unique blend of African and Portuguese ancestry. Today, most are descendants of those enslaved Africans, with others tracing lineage to European settlers or a mix of both—mestizos.

This cultural fusion has shaped Cabo Verde’s language, music, cuisine, and identity, making it a vibrant crossroads of African and European traditions.

Location of Cabo Verde

Route we took on Santiago Island

From Praia to Tarrafal: A Scenic Drive Through Santiago Island

January 2023 – Cabo Verde’s Rugged Beauty Unfolds

After arriving in Praia, the capital of Santiago Island, Paula, her mother, and I picked up our rental car and began our journey north to Tarrafal, a peaceful beachside village tucked along the island’s northern coast.

Challenges of Renting a Car in Cabo Verde

Renting a car wasn’t cheap, and options were limited. Ours resembled a tiny Geo Metro, comically outfitted with four spare tires—a clear warning. As a result, I kept to paved roads to avoid a blowout, though traffic was light and the drive relatively calm.

Along the way, we passed:

Half-built concrete homes in rural villages
Rugged volcanic peaks, reminiscent of a drier Hawaii
Scenic stretches of coast and quiet hillsides

The humble charm of the villages and the untouched natural scenery made the slow journey feel like a gentle unfolding of the island’s soul.

Typical Village

Hawaii Looking Volcanic Mountains

Santiago Island’s Mountain Roads and Missed Trails

Winding Through Volcanic Peaks and Dreams of Antonia Peak

As we ascended through the high mountain ridges of Santiago Island, I found myself pulling over time and time again—each bend in the road revealed a new, jaw-dropping view. The island’s rugged volcanic peaks, plunging valleys, and endless ridges created a landscape that felt both otherworldly and untouched.

It was unlike anything I had ever seen—wild, raw, and endlessly photogenic.

A Hiker’s Paradise Left for Next Time

Santiago is known for its incredible hiking trails, and I had one in particular on my list: Antonia Peak—the highest point on the island at 4,566 feet. Reaching the summit promises sweeping 360-degree views of the entire island and the surrounding Atlantic Ocean.

But with limited time, I had to let the trail go…

No summit attempt
No boots on the volcanic path
Just a mental bookmark for a return visit

Still, even from the roadside, the island’s natural grandeur was unforgettable. Every twist in the road felt like its own scenic reward, and while I didn’t reach the summit, I left with a deep appreciation for Santiago’s wild heart.

Antonia Peak-Highest Mountain in Santiago Island

Mountain Scenery

Villages Precaariously clinging to mountains

Paula admiring the view of Serra Malagueta Natural Park

Typical Village in the mountains

Paula in front of a cross along the route

Volcanic Mountain Tops

Arrival in Tarrafal

Tranquility, Then Unexpected Craziness

Eventually, we reached Tarrafal, a tranquil seaside town where the soft breeze, golden sands, and laid-back vibe welcomed us warmly. Nestled in a protected cove and surrounded by hills, it felt like the perfect place to relax and soak in the peaceful beauty of Cabo Verde.

But just as we were settling into that calm rhythm, our entry into town took a sudden and chaotic turn.

We were caught in a traffic jam—not from congestion, but from a vibrant local celebration in honor of Saint Amro, a revered Portuguese Catholic saint. The streets were packed with people in their finest clothes, the air filled with the smell of grilled food, music, and cheerful noise. Locals lined the roads, drinking, dancing, and honoring the saint with deep spiritual reverence.

What began as a quiet arrival turned into a moment of unexpected madness, bursting with culture, faith, and community spirit.

It was a wild contrast to the serenity we had expected—but in the best way. A reminder that even the most laid-back places can surprise you with their vibrant pulse and deep traditions.

Faith, Food, and Festivity

The streets were alive with color and community. Hundreds of locals, dressed in their finest church attire, filled the town in celebration. The air was thick with the aroma of grilled meats from roadside barbecues, the sound of laughter, and the clink of bottles as people enjoyed cold beers under the afternoon sun.

It was a scene that blended Catholic tradition with West African warmth, and it welcomed us into something deeply authentic and personal.

A Touch of the Sacred

At the heart of the celebration stood a small statue of Saint Amro. I watched as locals approached with reverence—some touched it gently, others kissed it, whispering prayers and hopes for blessings in the year ahead.

It was a moving reminder of Cabo Verde’s deep Catholic roots, and how faith remains central to daily life on the islands.

What struck me most wasn’t just the ritual, but the sincerity—the quiet power of belief, and the joy of a community coming together in devotion and celebration.

Praying to Saint Amro

Praying to Saint Amro

Tarrafal: Cabo Verde’s Coastal Hideaway

Where Mountains Meet the Sea and Time Slows Down

After the energy of Praia and the unexpected Saint Amro festival, Tarrafal was the perfect place to unwind and experience the slower, more soulful side of Cabo Verde.

A Cove of Calm

Nestled in a picturesque crescent-shaped cove, Tarrafal’s crystal-clear waters gently lapped against a quiet, sandy beach. Towering hills surrounded the town, giving it a protected, tucked-away feeling—like a natural refuge from the outside world.

The pace of life was slow, almost meditative. A handful of street cafés served freshly grilled seafood and ice-cold Caipirinhas made with local sugar cane liquor—a delicious reminder of Cabo Verde’s historic ties to Brazil.

A Town of Contrasts and Character

Tarrafal’s charm lay in its mix of rustic African spirit and faded Portuguese colonial elegance. Along the streets, concrete modern homes stood beside weathered colonial-era buildings, some with cracked paint and timeworn shutters—but full of character and history.

The town clearly took pride in its beach, which was well-kept and clean, reflecting a community that cares about its space—for both locals and visitors.

A Room with a View

Our hotel was unexpectedly modern—a touch of luxury in an otherwise humble town. From our balcony, we watched the sun dip into the Atlantic, painting the sky in soft pastels while the sea shimmered below.

It was everything I’d hoped Tarrafal would be—quiet, scenic, and full of understated charm.

A Place to Pause

Despite its size, Tarrafal didn’t feel empty—it felt intentional, like a destination for those seeking authenticity over activity. As we prepared for the next leg of our journey, I left with a deep appreciation for this hidden gem on Santiago Island.

Colonial era Portuguese building

Tarrafal Seaside

Tarrafal beach

Paula on the Tarrafal beach

Concentration Camp in Tarrafal

Tarrafal’s Hidden Shadows

From Tranquil Beach Town to Site of Suffering

As serene and beautiful as Tarrafal may appear today, it carries a deeply painful history—a reminder that even the most idyllic places are not immune to the scars of human cruelty.

The Camp of Death: A Legacy of Oppression

In the mid-20th century, under Portuguese colonial rule, Tarrafal became the site of a concentration camp used to imprison political dissidents, including many African independence fighters. Known by survivors as the “Camp of Death”, it stood as a symbol of the brutal repression carried out by the Portuguese dictatorship.

Conditions inside the camp were horrific:

Forced labor under the hot sun
Starvation and disease due to inadequate food and medical care
Torture, abuse, and death for those who dared to resist colonialism

Hundreds of men were incarcerated here over several decades, enduring unimaginable suffering simply for opposing authoritarian rule—both in Portugal and across its African colonies.

A Museum of Memory and Resistance

Today, the camp has been preserved as a museum, honoring the memory of those who lived, suffered, and died behind its walls. The exhibits are stark and emotional—concrete cells, rusted chains, and stories that speak of both pain and resilience.

Walking through the site was humbling—a sobering contrast to the peaceful beach just a short distance away.

The Land Holds Its History

Tarrafal’s beauty is undeniable, but it is layered with history—both joyful and tragic. Visiting the concentration camp was a reminder that the past is not easily buried, and that the landscapes we admire can also carry the weight of suffering.

Even in paradise, we must remember the past. It’s how we honor those who endured it—and how we ensure it is never repeated.

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp prison Cell

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp Walls