January 2023: For Paula’s birthday trip, we embarked on an unforgettable journey to the beautiful Portuguese-speaking islands of Cabo Verde and the Azores. The accessibility between these two stunning archipelagos made it a seamless trip, with direct flights offered by Sata Airlines from Boston and between the islands themselves. Cabo Verde, in particular, marked a monumental milestone for me—my final African country, making it 54 out of 54.

Reflecting on my journey through Africa, it’s incredible to think back to 2002 when I first set foot on the continent in Egypt. Back then, Africa felt mysterious and vast, and the idea of traveling to every country was beyond my imagination. At the time, I thought just visiting Egypt would be enough to say I’d experienced a part of Africa. Yet here I am, twenty years later, incredibly blessed to have seen all its nations, from the deserts of the north to the lush jungles of the equator, and the vast savannas in between. It’s been a journey filled with unforgettable experiences, countless lessons, and incredible landscapes and cultures.

Cabo Verde, an archipelago of volcanic islands, is located about 600 miles off the west coast of Africa. It was discovered and settled by the Portuguese in the 1460s, though there were no indigenous inhabitants prior to their arrival. The islands became a key stopover for the transatlantic slave trade, serving as a transit point for enslaved Africans being shipped to Brazil and other Portuguese colonies in the Americas. While the majority of slaves were sent to the Americas, a portion of them remained on the islands to work on Portuguese plantations.

Over time, Cabo Verde’s population became a unique blend of African and Portuguese ancestry. The majority of the population is descended from these African slaves, while many others have Portuguese heritage or are a mixture of both, known as mestizos. This mix of cultures has given Cabo Verde a rich, diverse heritage, with influences from both African and European traditions that shape the country’s culture, language, and identity today.

Route we took on Santiago Island

Arriving in Cabo Verde, Paula, her mother, and I flew directly into Praia, the capital city of Santiago Island, after our previous stop in the Azores. We rented a car upon arrival and set off for Tarrafal, a charming village located on a beautiful beach in the northern part of the island. The drive, while short in distance—about 30 miles—proved to be a lengthy journey due to the island’s mountainous terrain. The winding roads, constantly climbing and turning, were breathtaking, and I found myself stopping frequently to capture the stunning scenery.

Renting a car in Cabo Verde wasn’t cheap, and the selection was quite limited. The car we had resembled a small Geo Metro and came equipped with four spare tires, which made me cautious, limiting my driving to paved roads to avoid the risk of flat tires. Despite this, driving across the island was relatively stress-free, with light traffic since most locals do not own cars. Along the way, we passed through rural villages made up of half-built concrete homes and picturesque volcanic mountains, which reminded me of a drier version of Hawaii. The villages, while humble, had a certain charm, and the rugged beauty of the landscape was mesmerizing.

It was a wonderful, albeit slow, journey to Tarrafal, where we finally arrived at the idyllic beachside village to relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

Typical Village

Hawaii Looking Volcanic Mountains

As we drove through the high mountain ridges of Santiago Island, I couldn’t help but stop frequently to snap photos of the stunning views. The island’s dramatic topography was unlike anything I had seen before. Rugged volcanic peaks and deep valleys created a landscape that seemed to stretch on endlessly, each turn in the road revealing a new, breathtaking vista. Santiago Island is known for its wealth of hiking trails, and the one I had my eye on was the hike to the top of Antonia Peak, the highest point on the island at 4,566 feet.

Unfortunately, with limited time, I had to forgo this hike, but it remained at the top of my list for the future. Reaching the summit would have offered a panoramic view of the island and surrounding ocean, an experience that I knew would be worth the effort. Though I didn’t get the chance to explore Santiago’s trails in the way I had hoped, the beauty of the island from the road was enough to leave me with a deep appreciation for its natural splendor.

Antonia Peak-Highest Mountain in Santiago Island

Mountain Scenery

Villages Precaariously clinging to mountains

Paula admiring the view of Serra Malagueta Natural Park

Typical Village in the mountains

Paula in front of a cross along the route

Volcanic Mountain Tops

As we neared Tarrafal, we were unexpectedly caught in a traffic jam. The cause was a vibrant local festival in honor of Saint Amro, a Portuguese saint that the people of Cabo Verde revere. The streets were alive with the energy of hundreds of Cabo Verdeans dressed in their finest church clothes, celebrating in a traditional Catholic way. There were barbecues set up along the roads, with the tantalizing smells of grilled food filling the air, and people enjoying beers and socializing in the warm afternoon sun.

What stood out the most was the reverence people showed for the saint. I watched as one by one, locals approached a small statue of Saint Amro, touching it gently and offering prayers. Some kissed the statue, seeking blessings and hoping for good fortune in the coming year. It was a powerful reminder of the deep Catholic traditions that have shaped the culture of Cabo Verde, and it felt like we had stumbled upon an important moment in the life of this island community. The sincerity and faith of the people, as well as their willingness to celebrate together, left a lasting impression on me.

Praying to Saint Amro

Praying to Saint Amro

Tarrafal was the perfect spot to unwind and soak in the serene atmosphere of Cabo Verde. The small seaside town was set in a picturesque cove, with crystal-clear waters lapping against a gentle sandy beach. Surrounded by towering hills, the town felt like a peaceful retreat from the more bustling cities. The pace of life here was slow and relaxed, with only a few lively street cafes serving up fresh seafood and refreshing drinks like the enormous sugar-cane Caipirinhas, which were a delicious reminder of the country’s Brazilian ties.

The beach was well-kept, and I could tell the town put effort into maintaining it, cleaning up after both locals and visitors. The vibe of the place had an interesting blend of rustic African and colonial Portuguese influences, and the architecture reflected that mix. There were modern concrete buildings interspersed with older colonial-era structures, some of which showed signs of wear but still held their charm.

Our hotel was a bit of an anomaly—much more modern and luxurious compared to the town’s laid-back vibe—but it offered an incredible view from our balcony that overlooked the beach and the town. The setting sun cast beautiful colors over the sea, creating the kind of peaceful atmosphere I’d hoped for. Despite the quiet nature of Tarrafal, it felt like a place with real character, and it was a perfect retreat before our next adventure.

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Colonial era Portuguese building

Tarrafal Seaside

Tarrafal beach

Paula on the Tarrafal beach

It’s a sobering realization that even the most beautiful, remote places in the world have not been immune to the scars of human cruelty and conflict. Tarrafal is no exception to this tragic history. In the mid-1900s, during the Portuguese colonial era, the town became a symbol of the brutal repression exercised by the dictatorship of the time. Tarrafal was home to a concentration camp where political prisoners, including African independence fighters, were subjected to horrific conditions.

The camp, known as the “Camp of Death” by some of the survivors, saw many prisoners suffer and die in unimaginable ways due to forced labor, inadequate food, and brutal treatment. Over the course of several decades, hundreds of men were incarcerated there, enduring physical and mental torture, all for their opposition to Portuguese colonial rule. The prisoners included not just those fighting for independence, but also others who opposed the authoritarian regime, making it a site of immense human suffering.

Today, the concentration camp has been preserved as a museum to honor the memory of those who lived and died there. The museum is an important reminder of the resilience of the human spirit, but also a painful reflection on the dark chapters of history that still haunt many places around the world. Visiting this site was a humbling and deeply emotional experience, a stark contrast to the tranquil beauty of Tarrafal’s beach and peaceful atmosphere. It was a powerful reminder of how history can be intertwined with the land and how places, no matter how beautiful, can hold painful memories of the past.

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp prison Cell

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp Walls

Tarrafal Portuguese Concentration Camp

We spent our last night in Praia, the capital, in the old Portuguese part of town. Our stay in Cabo Verde was far too short, and if I return someday, I definitely want to trek in the highlands and visit some of the other islands, especially Fogo Island with its active volcano.