A Birthday Stop in the Azores
January 2023 – Islands of Charm Before the Final African Frontier
As part of a memorable birthday trip for my wife Paula, the three of us—Paula, her mom, and I—spent three wonderful days exploring the Azores Islands before continuing on to Cabo Verde, which marked a personal milestone: my final African country visited.
The Azores, a Portuguese archipelago in the North Atlantic, are easily reached via direct flights from Boston on SATA Airlines, with inter-island flights making it simple to hop between the islands.
I had long been eager to visit, especially after hearing countless glowing reviews from friends. They spoke of lush volcanic landscapes, natural hot springs, crater lakes, and an undeniable charm that sets the Azores apart. It didn’t disappoint—this scenic, under-the-radar paradise made for the perfect gateway to the final leg of our Atlantic adventure.
The Azores: Volcanic Isles of the Mid-Atlantic
A Portuguese Paradise of Green Hills and Geothermal Wonders
The Azores Islands, a Portuguese-speaking, semi-autonomous territory, lie about 1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal in the heart of the Mid-Atlantic Ocean. Shaped by their volcanic origins and nurtured by the Gulf Stream, the islands enjoy a temperate, oceanic climate with heavy rainfall—especially in winter—which keeps the landscape lush, green, and vibrant year-round.
A History Rooted in Exploration
First colonized by the Portuguese in the 1400s, the Azores had no known indigenous population. However, scattered evidence suggests earlier visits by seafaring civilizations, including Vikings and possibly even Phoenicians, long before Portugal laid its claim.
Geology on Display
The islands’ volcanic heritage is visible everywhere—from geothermal hot springs and steaming fumaroles to dramatic crater lakes tucked into green calderas.
São Miguel: The Showstopper
Of the nine islands, São Miguel is the most geologically active. Its bubbling hot springs, volcanic vents, and crater lakes make it a natural wonder—but also a reminder of the region’s seismic unpredictability. Some experts even refer to the island as a “ticking time bomb”, due to its potential for future volcanic eruptions.
Location of Azores
Route we took driving across Sao Miguel island
Arrival in São Miguel
A Serene Start in the Heart of the Azores
We landed in Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, just after 6 a.m. The island still felt sleepy in the early morning light as we picked up our rental car at the airport and hit the road—eager to make the most of our first day on São Miguel, the largest and most geothermally active island in the archipelago.
Caldeira Velha: Hot Springs in a Rainforest Paradise
Our first stop was Caldeira Velha, a set of natural hot springs tucked into the verdant, misty slopes of São Miguel’s central highlands. Surrounded by lush rainforest, ferns, and a small cascading waterfall, the springs offered a dreamlike setting—steamy, serene, and completely peaceful.
To our surprise and delight, we had the entire place to ourselves.
Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters, enveloped by nature and silence, was the perfect way to begin our Azorean journey—tranquil, rejuvenating, and unforgettable.
Caldeira Velha Waterfall
Paula’s mom, Cienne
Paula in the hot springs
Paula and her mom in the hot springs
Winter in the Azores: Beauty Beneath the Clouds
São Miguel in January – Storms, Solitude, and Scenic Surprises
Visiting the Azores in winter is a bit of a gamble. The islands are known for their frequent rain, heavy fog, and unpredictable storms during this season, which can make sightseeing a challenge. But there’s a big upside—no crowds. In winter, it often feels like you have the entire island to yourself.
Day One: Fog and Fleeting Views
On our first day exploring São Miguel, we were met with decent weather at lower elevations, allowing us to get out and explore comfortably. But as we ascended into the mountains, we were swallowed by dense fog—visibility dropped to about 10 feet, completely obscuring the views we had hoped for.
Our biggest disappointment was Fogo Lake, a stunning green crater lake nestled in a volcanic caldera. We had been excited to see it, but all we could do was imagine it beyond the white wall of mist.
Day Two: Storms and Stillness
The second day brought heavy rain and strong winds, making driving difficult and limiting outdoor activities. Still, we took advantage of every window of clear weather, hiking where we could and stopping to explore the island’s abandoned Portuguese churches and crumbling old buildings—eerie, beautiful reminders of the past slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Nature’s Moody Masterpiece
Despite the unpredictable weather, São Miguel left a strong impression. The lush, rain-fed vegetation, the mist-shrouded hills, and the moments of stillness between storms made the island feel wild and untamed, yet deeply peaceful.
Visiting in winter may have meant missing some views, but it gave us an intimate, raw version of the Azores—and that made it unforgettable.
Abandoned old Portuguese farmhose
Abandoned old Portuguese farmhose
Abandoned church
Old factory building now abandoned
Farm building overgrown by vegetation in a fog laden field
An old Portuguese church on a lake
Sea Cliffs viewed from our guesthouse
Old Portuguese House
Village House
Staying in Furnas: Where the Earth Breathes
Volcanic Energy in the Heart of São Miguel
During our stay on São Miguel, we based ourselves near Furnas, a small town nestled in the heart of an ancient volcanic crater. Known for its intense geothermal activity, Furnas felt like a place where the earth was very much alive.
Steam, Sulfur, and Surreal Landscapes
The area is teeming with natural phenomena:
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Steaming mud pots burble and bubble across the landscape
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Hot springs of all sizes offer therapeutic soaking spots
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Fumaroles vent clouds of steam into the humid air, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere
The combination of active geothermal energy and the surrounding lush greenery made Furnas not only visually fascinating but deeply immersive—a place where you can see, smell, and feel the power of nature all around you.
Walking through town felt like stepping into a living laboratory, where the ground breathes and the air carries the scent of sulfur.
Boiling hot springs
Paula sitting by the hot springs
Cow grazing by an Old farmhouse
Pastures, Cheese, and Cliffside Charm
A Taste of the Azores’ Quiet Coastal Life
The Azores are renowned for their prized dairy cows, which dot the island’s lush, green hillsides. With abundant rainfall and verdant pastures, the islands offer ideal conditions for dairy farming—a fact that becomes clear in the exceptional quality of local milk and cheese, often served fresh and unpasteurized, full of flavor and richness.
Dinner in Povoação: A Seaside Escape
After exploring the geothermal wonders of Furnas, we continued on to the quiet seaside town of Povoação for dinner. Tucked between steep cliffs and the Atlantic, the town had a simple, coastal charm that felt worlds away from the tourist trail.
A Cliffside Stay to Remember
That night, we stayed in a cozy old guesthouse perched high on the sea cliffs. The home was run by a kind and welcoming Portuguese man, whose warmth and hospitality made us feel like we were staying with an old friend.
As the only guests, we had the entire house to ourselves, enjoying the quiet solitude, warm hospitality, and breathtaking views of the ocean stretching endlessly below.
It was a peaceful, memorable end to a day filled with volcanic steam, green pastures, and the timeless rhythm of the sea.
Sea Cliffs from Povocao Town
Portugese Old Town-Povoacao
Lava Cave in Punta Delgado
A Rainy Farewell and a Birthday to Remember
Celebrating Paula’s Special Day in Ponta Delgada
On our last day in the Azores, we celebrated Paula’s birthday with a cozy meal at a local diner in Ponta Delgada, savoring comforting Portuguese cuisine while the rain continued to fall outside. It wasn’t fancy, but it was authentic and heartfelt, the kind of meal that feels just right on a gray day.
Underground Adventure in the Rain
With most outdoor activities off the table, we turned to one of the island’s few indoor options—a visit to a nearby lava cave formed by ancient volcanic flows. While the tourist-accessible section of the cave was relatively modest, it was still an interesting and educational stop—and a welcome escape from the weather.
Making the Most of It
Despite the persistent rain, we found joy in the simple moments: warm meals, cozy guesthouses, misty views, and the chance to be together in one of the most unique corners of the Atlantic.
It wasn’t perfect weather, but it was a perfect memory—a quiet, meaningful end to our time in the Azores, and a beautiful beginning to the next chapter of the trip.
Paula in the lava cave
Reflections on the Azores
A Brief Encounter with Lasting Impact
The Azores are undeniably beautiful, and even during our short, rain-soaked visit, their magic wasn’t lost on us. From steaming hot springs and volcanic landscapes to misty mountains and cliffside villages, the islands offered a glimpse into a world that felt both untamed and peaceful.
Looking Ahead
Despite the weather challenges, we were captivated by the Azores’ lush scenery, geothermal wonders, and tranquil rhythm of life. It was enough to make one thing clear:
We’ll be back.
We’re already dreaming of a return trip—one where we can take our time, dive deeper into the islands’ culture and nature, and truly immerse ourselves in all that the Azores have to offer.