January 2023: As part of a memorable birthday trip for my wife, Paula, the three of us—Paula, her mom, and I—spent three days exploring the Azores Islands before continuing to Cabo Verde, which marked my final African country to visit. The Azores are conveniently accessible via a direct flight from Boston on SATA Airlines, with inter-island flights making it easy to explore multiple islands. I was especially excited to visit the Azores because so many of my friends who had been there couldn’t stop raving about the islands’ natural beauty and charm.
Where are the Azores Islands
The Portuguese-speaking Azores Islands, a semi-autonomous territory of Portugal, are located about 1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal in the Mid-Atlantic Ocean. These islands enjoy a temperate climate, thanks to the Gulf Stream, with significant rainfall, especially in the winter, which keeps the landscape lush and verdant year-round. Colonized by the Portuguese in the 1400s, the Azores had no known prior inhabitants, though evidence suggests that Vikings and even Phoenicians may have visited the islands long before the Portuguese claimed them.
The Azores are volcanic in origin, with striking geological features such as geothermal hot springs and volcanic crater lakes. Of all the islands, São Miguel stands out for its active geothermal activity, making it both a geological marvel and a potential “ticking time bomb” due to the risk of future eruptions.
Location of Azores
Route we took driving across Sao Miguel island
Caldeira Velha Natural Hot Springs
We arrived early in the morning, around 6 a.m., in Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores located on the main island, São Miguel. After picking up our rental car at the airport, we set off to explore the island right away. Our first destination was the natural hot springs of Caldeira Velha. Nestled in a lush, green forest surrounded by ferns, a gentle stream, and a picturesque waterfall, the hot springs felt like a slice of heaven—especially since we had the entire place to ourselves. It was the perfect, serene way to start our Azorean adventure.
Caldeira Velha Waterfall
Paula’s mom, Cienne
Paula in the hot springs
Paula and her mom in the hot springs
Exploring the Countryside
Visiting the Azores in winter comes with its risks. The islands experience frequent rain and stormy weather during this season, which can make it challenging to see many of the attractions. However, the upside is the lack of crowds—you’ll often feel like you have the islands to yourself. During our two days on São Miguel Island, we experienced a mix of weather. The first day brought relatively good conditions in the lower elevations, but heavy fog in the mountains meant visibility was limited to about 10 feet, leaving us with no views of Fogo Lake—a stunning green volcanic crater lake that we were excited to see.
On the second day, the weather turned for the worse, with heavy downpours making driving dangerous and significantly limiting our activities. When the weather was cooperative, we made the most of it by exploring as much as possible and squeezing in some hiking. I was captivated by the island’s lush vegetation and the unique, abandoned old Portuguese churches and buildings we came across during our journey. Despite the challenges, the natural beauty and charm of São Miguel made it a memorable experience.
Abandoned old Portuguese farmhose
Abandoned old Portuguese farmhose
Abandoned church
Old factory building now abandoned
Farmbuilding overgrown by vegetation in a fog laden field
An old Portuguese church on a lake
Sea Cliffs viewed from our guesthouse
Old Portuguese House
Village House
Geothermal Activity in Furnas Town
We stayed near the geothermally active town of Furnas, located at the base of an ancient volcanic crater. The area is alive with geothermal activity, featuring steaming mud pots, bubbling hot springs, and fumaroles venting clouds of steam. The surreal, otherworldly landscape combined with the lush greenery surrounding the town made it a fascinating place to explore.
Boiling hot springs
Paula sitting by the hot springs
Cow grazing by an Old farmhouse
The Azores are renowned for their prized dairy cows and the exceptional cheese and milk they produce. This is hardly surprising given the island’s verdant pastures and abundant grazing land, which create ideal conditions for dairy farming.
After our visit to Furnas, we headed to the charming seaside town of Povoação for dinner. That evening, we stayed in a cozy, old guest house perched atop the sea cliffs. The guest house was run by a kind and hospitable Portuguese man, who made us feel right at home. As the only guests, we enjoyed the quiet and warmth of his home, with breathtaking views of the ocean stretching out below. It was a peaceful and memorable way to end our day.
Sea Cliffs from Povocao Town
Portugese Old Town-Povoacao
Lava Cave in Punta Delgado
On our last day in the Azores, we celebrated Paula’s birthday with a meal at a local diner in Ponta Delgada, enjoying some authentic Portuguese cuisine. Since the rain persisted, we opted for one of the few indoor activities available—a visit to a nearby lava cave. While the touristy section of the cave wasn’t particularly impressive, it was still a unique experience and a welcome alternative to being out in the rain. Despite the weather, we made the most of our time, ending the trip with some memorable moments.
Paula in the lava cave
The Azores are undeniably beautiful, and our short visit left me yearning to experience more of their charm. Despite the challenges with the weather, the islands’ lush landscapes, geothermal wonders, and tranquil atmosphere captivated us. We’re already looking forward to returning someday to explore the Azores at a more relaxed pace and truly immerse ourselves in everything they have to offer.