Trip to Bamiyan, Afghanistan in Winter Two Years Before the Taliban Takeover

A Return to Afghanistan: February 2019

This trip was part of a 10-day round-the-world journey, departing from Los Angeles and traveling through Myanmar, Thailand, and Afghanistan, before flying home across the Atlantic—a full loop around the world.

After my first visit to the Wakhan Valley, I knew Afghanistan was a country I needed to experience again. Its immense natural beauty, rich history, and hospitable people kept drawing me back. This time, I set my sights on Kabul, Bamiyan, and Band-e Amir Lakes National Park—one of the few regions deemed relatively safe during the ongoing war.

At the time, the Taliban controlled nearly three-quarters of the country, locked in conflict with both the U.S. military and the Afghan government. Travel outside of government-held territories was incredibly risky, restricting my options to areas under firm government control. Bamiyan Province was one of those places—or so I thought.

But as I would soon learn, even the so-called “safe zones” in Afghanistan were anything but predictable. And my trip nearly didn’t happen at all.

The Nightmare of Getting an Afghan Visa

One of the main reasons I delayed my return to Afghanistan for so long was the infamously difficult visa process. While many travelers opted to secure their visa in Dubai, I refused to spend time there and instead took my chances with the Afghan consulate in Washington, D.C.

This turned out to be one of the worst visa experiences of my life—a process so frustrating and unprofessional that outright rejection would have been less painful than the mind games they played.

Chaos at the Consulate

I applied for visas for myself and two friends, two months before our trip. What followed was a bureaucratic nightmare:

• The consulate was erratic and unpredictable—one official threw my passport at the visa courier I had hired.
• I spent endless hours on the phone with both the visa handling company and the Afghan travel agency sponsoring our visas.
• Despite weeks of waiting, there was no clear answer—just constant delays and contradictions.

With just days before my flight, the owner of my Afghan travel agency and the president of the visa handling company personally visited the consulate to push for approval.

A Last-Minute Miracle (for Me, at Least)

One friend received his visa weeks in advance, but my other friend and I were left in limbo. The day before departure, I was told my visa was denied—only to get a call five minutes later saying it had actually been approved. My friend, however, was not so lucky.

• I had my passport FedExed overnight directly to LAX airport, where I picked it up just hours before my flight.
• With my documents in hand, I boarded my flight—alone.

What should have been a trip with friends turned into a solo adventure—all because of the chaos of Afghan bureaucracy.

American military equipment at Kabul Airport

My security escort who confessed to me his gun was only good for hunting birds

Exploring Kabul: A City on Edge

I spent a few days exploring Kabul, a city that at the time was in a constant state of tension—with regular bombings, shootings, and kidnappings. Despite the looming threat, daily life continued, and the city had an unexpected energy:

• Cafés and restaurants were packed with people sipping tea and chatting.
• Afghan music played loudly in markets and streets.
• Shoppers filled the bazaars, going about their routines with a surprising sense of normalcy.

Historical and Cultural Sites in Kabul

I made sure to visit some of Kabul’s most important landmarks, including:

• The Bird Market – A centuries-old bazaar where vendors sell exotic birds, a cherished tradition in Afghan culture.
• King Babur’s Tomb – The final resting place of the Mughal Empire’s founder, built in the 1550s, offering sweeping views of the city.
• The National Museum – Once looted during the wars, it still houses remarkable artifacts from Afghanistan’s rich history.
• Hilltop Viewpoints – Climbing to one of Kabul’s hills gave me a panoramic view of the sprawling city, framed by rugged mountains.

Despite the security risks, Kabul felt alive, with its people determined to keep their traditions and daily joys intact—even as war loomed over them.

View of Kabul from a hill top

Kids flying homemade kites from hilltop

The Legacy of Massoud in Kabul

During my time in Kabul, the presence of Ahmad Shah Massoud, the legendary Northern Alliance commander and fierce enemy of the Taliban, was everywhere. His image adorned posters, billboards, and murals throughout the city.

One of the most striking tributes to Massoud was a huge mural painted on a hilltop, overlooking a dusty field where kids played cricket below. The scene was symbolic—a war hero watching over the next generation in a city that had seen too much conflict.

Massoud, revered as one of Afghanistan’s greatest military leaders, played a key role in resisting both the Soviet invasion and later the Taliban’s rule. Many Afghans consider him one of the true founders of the modern nation, and his assassination in 2001, just two days before 9/11, remains one of the most significant events in Afghanistan’s recent history.

Even in a city gripped by uncertainty and war, Massoud’s memory was very much alive—a reminder of both Afghanistan’s struggles and its resilience.

Kids playing cricket before mural of Massoud

Kabul’s Markets and Museum: A Glimpse into Daily Life

Despite being heavily looted, Kabul’s National Museum still offered a glimpse into Afghanistan’s rich history. But the true highlight was the bustling markets, where daily life unfolded in a way no exhibit could capture.

The bird market, a narrow alley lined with cages of pigeons, songbirds, and falcons, was especially fascinating. Afghan men gathered to barter and chat, keeping birds as pets—an enduring tradition despite decades of war.

Amid the city’s tensions, these markets reflected Kabul’s resilience, where life carried on despite uncertainty.

King Baburs Tomb

Ice cream parlour with separate sections for men and women.

Burka clad woman holding her child in the market. I would never take this photo in the open which potentially could incite a riot. Instead I snuk this photo from a passing car with a zoom lense. 

Eating Like a Local & Exploring Kabul’s Markets

We dined at local eateries, which were always packed with men, while women remained absent from public dining spaces—an unmistakable reflection of Afghan social norms. The restaurants were lively, filled with aromatic spices, sizzling meats, and the chatter of locals, offering a true taste of daily life in Kabul.

Wandering through the markets, we absorbed the chaotic yet captivating energy. The bird market stood out, selling everything from songbirds, prized for their melodies, to massive, well-fed fighting pigeons, used in high-stakes gambling matches. Some birds were also sold for food, reinforcing the practical and cultural role they played in Afghan society.

Despite the ever-present tension in the city, the markets buzzed with life, a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of Kabul’s people.

Bird Market

Bird market

Walking through bird market with my security guard.

Reaching Bamiyan: The Safer Alternative

Despite Bamiyan being only 5–6 hours away, the most direct route passed through Wardak Province, a Taliban stronghold infamous for ambushes, kidnappings, and attacks.

Some foreign travelers reportedly reached Bamiyan disguised in burqas, blending in with local women to avoid detection. However, at 6’1″ and 220 lbs., this was not an option for me.

The safest and most feasible alternative was to fly. Aboard a small turboprop, we soared over the rugged, snow-covered Hindu Kush mountains, the landscape below both stunning and foreboding. The flight path zigzagged away from Taliban-controlled villages to minimize the risk of an RPG attack—a stark reminder of Afghanistan’s reality.

In the end, I reached one of the country’s most historic and breathtaking regions without incident, eager to explore the remnants of Bamiyan’s ancient past.

Hindu Kush Mountains

Signs of the Soviet war

Me with local kids on a Soviet tank

Me with my new turban I bought in the market

The Lost Kingdom of Bamiyan

The Bamiyan Buddhas were carved into the mountainside 1,500 years ago, during a time when Bamiyan was a thriving Buddhist kingdom, enriched by its strategic location along the Silk Road. For centuries, these massive statues stood as silent witnesses to the passage of traders, pilgrims, and invading armies. Even the Mongols, infamous for their brutal conquests, spared the Buddhas when they razed the city and slaughtered its inhabitants.

It wasn’t until 2001 that the Taliban—seeing them as symbols of idolatry—reduced the statues to rubble, erasing one of Afghanistan’s most treasured historical sites.

A Moment of Normalcy in Bamiyan

Unlike much of Afghanistan, Bamiyan felt safe, and there was no need to disguise myself or blend in. Still, for fun, I decided to buy a local turban in the market. The people were friendly, welcoming, and full of life, enjoying a rare sense of peace in a war-torn country.

Sadly, just months after my visit, a suicide bombing ripped through this very market, killing 50 people. I often wonder about the kind faces I met that day—the shopkeepers, the passersby, the men who helped me tie my turban. Were they among the victims? Did they survive?

In a country where war is constant, even the safest places can change overnight.

Caves where giant Buddhas once stood

Exploring the Hidden Caves of Bamiyan

Around the empty Buddha niches, a network of ancient caves sprawls across the cliffs—many of which were once home to Buddhist monks, pilgrims, and artists. Some of these caves still contain the oldest known oil paintings in the world, predating even the techniques used in the European Renaissance.

The walls of these caves are adorned with faded yet intricate murals, remnants of a time when Bamiyan was a flourishing Buddhist center. It was surreal to stand inside these ancient chambers, imagining the artists who once mixed pigments and carefully painted these sacred spaces—never knowing that, centuries later, their creations would outlive the very Buddhas they once honored.

Local Guide Posing in a Buddha Cave

Restoration work is underway on the giant Buddhas but is slow moving and the scaffolding seems to be more useful as a playground for local kids

Even normal things like drivers license tests ocur in places like Aghanistan. Here a police officer tests the applicants parallel parking skills in the parking lot of the giant Buddhas.

The drivers license test was a great spectator event for local men

Echoes of the Silk Road in Bamiyan

Before reaching the giant Buddha niches, we explored ancient Hazara tombs and the ruins of Silk Road bazaars, once bustling with traders from Persia, India, and China. These remnants of market stalls and caravanserais stand as silent witnesses to Bamiyan’s past as a vibrant hub of commerce and culture.

Hazara tomb

Hazara Man who posed for me in a photo

City of Sceams where Genghis kahn killed every man, woman and child as punishment for killing his grandson. The Ghurid kingdom was devastated in the attack and city was given this nickname because the screams of the dying could be heard all throughout the Bamiyan valley.

Village Life and Ancient Fortresses in Bamiyan

My favorite part of Bamiyan was exploring its villages, where farmers still used ancient cultivation methods, tending their fields much as their ancestors had for centuries. The hospitality of the locals was unforgettable—every greeting was accompanied by a warm handshake and genuine kindness.

Scattered among these villages were ancient castles and fortifications, their weathered walls standing as silent remnants of a long-lost history. Some had known origins, linked to the region’s rich past, while others remained a mystery, their stories lost to time. Wandering through these remote and timeless landscapes made Bamiyan feel like a place untouched by modernity, where history and daily life coexisted seamlessly.

Farmer

Local Hazara man

Random castle in Hazara Village

Bamiyan’s Unforgettable Kebabs

One of my favorite parts of Bamiyan was the kebab shops, where the aroma of sizzling meat filled the air. The thick, doughy bread, especially when fresh, was the perfect complement to the smoky, flavorful kebabs. Simple yet delicious, every meal felt like a comforting taste of Afghan hospitality.

Cook in kebob shop

Traditional seating on the floor of restaraunt 

Afghanistan’s Unexpected Love for Volleyball

One of the biggest surprises in Afghanistan was discovering the widespread popularity of volleyball. Originally introduced by Americans, the sport has rapidly gained traction across the country. In villages and towns, I often saw locals enthusiastically playing, a reminder of how sports can transcend cultures and bring people together in unexpected ways.

Volleyball game at an arena donated by the USA

Spectator at volleyball game in front of mural of a Hazara cleric

The Valley of the Dragons: Hot Springs and Curiosity

In a remote corner of Bamiyan, we explored the Valley of the Dragons, named for its striking, dragon-shaped rock formations. The landscape was surreal, with hot spring water bubbling up from the ground, painting the earth in vivid mineral-rich colors.

As we admired the scene, a friendly old man relaxing at the springs greeted us warmly. He was full of curiosity, asking me all sorts of scientific questions about the origin of the hot water—where it came from, why it was warm, and what made it different from regular water. It was a charming moment, blending natural beauty with the universal human love for learning and discovery.

I thought it was interesting that he didn’t ask the driver or my guide. My guide mentioned he is asking you because he figures you are educated since you are a foreigner.

Old man at the Dragons Valley who asked me questions about hot spring water and where it comes from

Fortified Guesthouses and a Lonely Stay in Bamiyan

Like many foreigner guesthouses in Afghanistan, mine was heavily fortified with barbed wire, guard towers, and armed guards, a stark reminder of the lingering threats of kidnapping, banditry, and Taliban attacks.

Inside, my room was cozy but dark and dusty, and the nights were bitterly cold. To keep warm, I lit a wood stove fire, which filled the space with warmth and a faint scent of burning wood.

The hotel itself felt eerily empty—I was the only guest, meaning I had the full attention of the staff. While their hospitality was generous, the silence of the nearly deserted guesthouse added to the surreal and isolating experience of traveling through Bamiyan’s rugged beauty.

Hotel Security

The Solitude of Traveling in Afghanistan

This sense of isolation was nothing new to me in Afghanistan. While tourists do visit, they are so few and far between that encountering another traveler on any given trip is rare.

Unlike other destinations where backpackers cross paths at hostels or local cafés, here, I often found myself alone—wandering through historic sites, staying in empty guesthouses, and exploring villages where foreign visitors remain an unusual sight. It’s a unique kind of solitude, one that makes travel in Afghanistan feel both deeply personal and profoundly immersive.

Snowy Peaks and the Journey to Band-e Amir

While the Bamiyan Valley itself wasn’t covered in snow during my visit, the towering mountains surrounding it were dusted in white, creating a stunning contrast against the rugged landscape.

My plan was to visit Band-e Amir National Park, Afghanistan’s first national park, home to a breathtaking chain of turquoise-green lakes. These natural wonders are uniquely dammed by travertine deposits, creating an otherworldly landscape that has remained largely untouched. The journey ahead promised both adventure and the chance to see one of Afghanistan’s most stunning and remote natural treasures.

Driving Conditions to Band-E-Amir National Park in Winter

Battling Snow and Avalanches on the Way to Band-e Amir

Reaching Band-e Amir National Park was no easy feat. To get there, we had to drive over the mountains, climbing to an altitude of 10,000 feet, where the snow was piled several feet deep off the main road.

While the paved highway was plowed, the real challenge began when we had to turn onto a bad dirt road leading into the park. This path was a messy mix of trodden snow, deep mud, and ruts from other vehicles, making the drive treacherous.

And we weren’t in a rugged 4×4—we were navigating this terrain in a Toyota Corolla, slipping and struggling our way forward. It was slow, rough going, but the promise of Afghanistan’s most beautiful lakes kept us pushing ahead.

The drive was brutal, and our Toyota Corolla got stuck in the snow multiple times. At one point, we were so deeply wedged in that I genuinely thought we’d have to walk for hours back to the highway and hitchhike.

Along the way, we encountered a local man shoveling snow, clearing the aftermath of an avalanche that had blocked the road. Unfortunately, the snow was too deep for vehicles to pass, leaving me no choice but to walk the final few miles to the Band-e Amir lakes.

Local man shoveling snow from avalanche

Frozen Lakes and a Ranger’s Hospitality

Despite the knee-deep snow and tough hike, the breathtaking landscape made every step worth it. As I trudged toward Band-e Amir, I noticed fresh wolf tracks, a reminder of the untamed wilderness of Afghanistan’s highlands. The wolves had likely descended from the mountains in search of sheep, reinforcing just how remote and wild this place truly was.

When I finally arrived, I found the frozen lakes completely deserted—I had them all to myself. I carefully walked across the ice, mindful that it was thin in places—a single misstep could mean falling through into frigid waters, a risk that would be deadly in such extreme cold.

As I wandered, a lonely park ranger spotted me and waved me over. He invited me into his simple home, where we sat by the fire, warming our hands and sharing tea in the quiet solitude of Afghanistan’s first national park. It was a moment of human connection in an otherwise vast and isolated wilderness.

Wolf tracks as big as my shoes

Frozen lakes

Some parts of the lakes were not frozen and the scenery with the jagged mountains covered in snow with the emerald green lakes in the foreground was jaw-dropping

Leaving Bamiyan and the Long Journey Home

After spending a few incredible days in Bamiyan, I caught a Kam Air turboprop flight back to Kabul—amazingly, it departed on time, a rarity in Afghanistan. Just days after my visit, however, most flights were canceled for weeks due to bad weather, making me appreciate my lucky timing even more.

From Kabul, I began my long journey home to California, flying first to India. The flight took an extra three hours due to Pakistan’s airspace being closed—the result of escalating tensions and clashes between India and Pakistan.

Though the trip home was long, the memories of Bamiyan, Band-e Amir, and the wild Afghan highlands made every extra mile worth it.