Yemen: Venturing into Old Arabia

Discovering a Forgotten Land – November 2007

Yemen rarely made headlines for positive reasons. Whenever it appeared in the news, it was typically due to suicide bombings or ongoing conflicts. Even during its prolonged civil war, few in the international community seemed to pay attention to this country at the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Before my visit, I had little understanding of Yemen’s decades-long civil war or that it had once been divided into North and South Yemen—a division that served as another proxy battleground between the Soviet Union and the West.

Seeking Authenticity

What initially drew me to Yemen, however, wasn’t its turbulent political history. Unlike some of its affluent northern Arab neighbors, Yemen didn’t boast oil-funded extravagance, luxury cars, Louis Vuitton handbags and abayas, or towering, characterless skyscrapers. Instead, Yemen offered a glimpse into an older, authentic Arabia preserved in its purest form.

Timeless Traditions

Men wore ornate jambiya daggers at their waist, and many openly carried assault rifles. Buildings, including those in the capital city Sana’a, were still constructed from traditional mud bricks, reflecting centuries-old architectural styles. Yemen’s rich cultural traditions appeared virtually untouched by the passage of time.

For these reasons, Yemen remains one of the most rewarding destinations I’ve ever explored.

A Land of Contrast

Yemen is the poorest country in Arabia. While it does have oil, it lacks the seemingly endless reserves of black gold that enrich its neighbors. Decades of civil war and political instability have rendered Yemen unattractive to foreign investment, especially in its oil infrastructure. Despite this, Yemen holds immense cultural and historical value.

On this trip, I visited three main regions: Sana’a, the Haraz Mountains, and Marib. The capital, Sana’a, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, famous for its mud brick skyscrapers. To the west lie the beautiful Haraz Mountains, home to ancient stone villages perched on dramatic hilltops. In stark contrast, to the east lies the lawless Marib District, a region of ancient ruins dating back to biblical times, situated along the edge of the Rub al Khali—the Empty Quarter—the largest sand sea in the world.

A Fragile Peace

At the time of my visit, Yemen had just emerged from a civil war between the Shiite Houthis of the north and the Sunni factions of the south and capital. A fragile truce was in place, but it threatened to unravel at any moment. Adding to the tension were Al-Qaeda factions operating within the country, known for kidnapping and executing foreigners.

While kidnapping had long been a part of Yemen’s tribal tradition—often used as leverage to pressure the government into building roads or schools—such hostages were typically treated with hospitality and never harmed. That old custom still exists in some areas, but the presence of extremist groups like Al-Qaeda made the risk far more serious. The prospect of being kidnapped, tortured, and executed was not part of the adventure I was seeking. So we did our best to keep a low profile throughout the journey.

For these reasons, Yemen remains one of the most rewarding—and complex—destinations I’ve ever explored.

Yellow line marks the general route I took when visiting Yemen

Arrival in Sana’a

I flew from Dubai to Sana’a on Yemenia Airlines. My friend Evan had arrived the day before and was waiting for me. Our plan was to spend a week in Yemen, though we had only a loose itinerary and figured we would make decisions once we arrived. On the flight over, I was awestruck by the vastness of the Empty Quarter as we flew over it, observing the mesmerizing shapes and patterns of the sand dunes.

I arrived in Sana’a at night and breezed through immigration—at the time, no visa was required for American citizens. I hailed a taxi, a beat-up old sedan with visible bullet holes, and rode from the airport to the old town. There, I met Evan at an outdoor restaurant.

A City from Arabian Nights

I instantly fell in love with old Sana’a. It was more than I had hoped for—truly a page ripped from the tales of Arabian Nights. We stayed in a mud brick skyscraper hotel for $40 per night, which had an incredible rooftop view overlooking the city. Each morning, we would enjoy breakfast and coffee on the rooftop, serenaded by the majestic call to prayer echoing across the ancient city.

Life in Sana’a appeared unchanged for centuries. Donkeys roamed the streets, bread was baked in open clay ovens, and men strolled through alleyways with large jambiya daggers strapped to their waists.

Meeting Our Guides

Evan had met two young local men, Ali and Muhammed, the day before my arrival. They owned a 4WD vehicle, spoke English, and were eager to help us explore. Though unofficial guides, they were full of ideas and enthusiasm. When I arrived, the four of us met to agree on an itinerary and daily rate.

We absolutely loved these guys. They turned out to be not only helpful and knowledgeable but also a lot of fun—excellent travel companions who made our journey through Yemen even more memorable.

Saana Old City

Saana Old City

Kids playing soccer in the Saana Old City

Bakery

Souq

Souq

Kaat market

Man chewing kaat

man chewing kaat

Jibya dagger

Man presenting his jibya, dagger

Fortresses in the Sky

The history of Yemen has always been a tribal and feudal one, where villages often found themselves in conflict with neighboring communities. As a result, fortification was essential for survival. Many villages were built on mountaintops, with commanding views of the surrounding countryside, allowing residents to spot potential invaders well in advance. Massive stone walls added further protection to these elevated settlements.

These fortified villages are scattered throughout the Haraz Mountains, and most can only be reached on foot. We explored dozens of them through a combination of hiking and four-wheel driving. The roads to access them were extremely rugged—many passable only with a 4WD vehicle—but the effort was always rewarded with stunning views and a deep sense of history.

Mountain Villages

Mountain Villages

Haraz Mountains

Exploring the Wild Haraz Mountains

A Rugged Landscape of Nature and Tradition

Some areas of the Haraz Mountains remain wild, undeveloped, and still home to native wildlife. While we had hoped to spot more elusive creatures, all we encountered were domestic goats, wandering freely across the rugged terrain. Despite this, the raw beauty and remote charm of the mountains made the experience unforgettable.

Mountain Villages

Evan and a villager

Village man

Encounters with Local Women in Yemen

Navigating Cultural Boundaries

In conservative Yemen, we didn’t see many women in public. When we did, we made sure to give them a wide berth out of respect for their customs. However, on one occasion, while walking past a group of women who appeared to be caught off guard, they responded by throwing rocks at us.

Women in Yemen

Mountain Villages

Hospitality in Yemen

Warm Welcomes from the Locals

The people of Yemen were incredibly kind and hospitable—by “people,” I mean men, as we didn’t have the opportunity to interact with women. In one village, a man waved us down and invited us into his house for tea and lunch—goat and bread, a simple yet delicious meal shared in the warmth of his home.

Man inviting us into his castle house

Evan and I

Mountain Villages

Mountain Villages

Evan and I

Mountain Villages

Mountain Villages

A Journey into the Empty Quarter

Navigating Marib’s Unstable Terrain

We decided to visit the Empty Quarter and camp with the Bedouins in Marib. This meant driving east of Sana’a, into a region considered unstable and dangerous. As soon as we left the city and arrived at our first police checkpoint, we were informed that we needed a permit from the district headquarters. This led to a few hours of waiting and negotiating over tea. Eventually, they allowed us to pass, but only on the condition that we had a mandatory escort, which I don’t recall having to pay for. From there, we followed a jeep full of gun-clad officers into Marib District.

Our Police Escort

Me with a police escort

Tension on the Road to Marib

A Suspenseful Encounter with a Mysterious Driver

The police in our escort were on edge at times. On one occasion, a man in a vehicle saw us and sped toward us at breakneck speeds, only to veer away at the last moment. It seemed strange, almost as if it was some sort of test. Then, an hour later, it happened again—this time, a man in a vehicle that looked like it had survived a bomb sped up alongside us as soon as we passed. The man pulled up parallel to us, trying to catch up.

I pointed to him and alerted a police officer in our vehicle, and he was already watching nervously. The police truck quickly reacted, assuming this was an attack. Our vehicle pulled over, and, expecting a detonation of some kind, I jumped out of the car and backed away. But to our surprise, the man pulled up to the police, and instead of blowing himself up along with all of us, he started shaking hands with the officers. They exchanged smiles and more handshakes.

It was a strange encounter, but typical in a place like Yemen. In all likelihood, he could have been a terrorist, and perhaps our next encounter could end differently.

Man who we thought was a suicide bomber

The Wild East

A Journey Into Tribal Territory

The further east we went, the wilder the people and the countryside became. In addition to knives, everyone now openly carried rifles and assault rifles. The people were more tribal and fiercely Islamic, with strict customs that included a complete prohibition on alcohol.

During one stop at a restaurant on our journey, we drank non-alcoholic beers. Despite being labeled “non-alcoholic,” these drinks still contained less than one percent alcohol, and after a few of them, they provided a slight buzz.

Evan and I with one of our Yemen Friends

Lunch in Marib

Marib: A Dangerous, Yet Intriguing Territory

Navigating a Terrorist Hot Zone

According to the US State Department, Marib was a terrorist hotspot, and a no-go area for American citizens. Our Yemeni friends were extremely careful and protective of us while in Marib, knowing the risks firsthand. After all, they had been kidnapped here by Al-Qaeda, along with a few French tourists. They were held captive for weeks, with ransom demands and constant threats to their lives. Ali managed to escape and send for help, leading to a rescue mission by French special forces in the middle of the night. The operation ended with the killing of the kidnappers, and as a reward, Ali received the 4WD vehicle that he was now using to drive us around.

If anything were to go wrong, it would be here. Men walked the streets carrying assault rifles, exchanging fierce looks with us. It didn’t appear to be the friendliest of places. But despite the tough exterior of these men, I asked them for photos, and no one refused. Everyone seemed genuinely interested in us, even though I avoided revealing that we were American—after all, Americans, especially after 9/11, are often prized targets for some groups in this part of the world.

Aware of how they might appear to Westerners, one man said after I took his photo, “Please don’t show people my photo and say that I am a terrorist. We are good people, not terrorists.”

Marib Locals

Marib Locals

Marib Locals

Marib Old City

Marib Old City

Marib Old City

Marib Old City

Ancient Temple dating back to Times of Queen Sheeba

A Temple of History and Tragedy

Queen of Sheba’s Empire

This temple is thought to be part of the ancient Queen of Sheba’s empire, dating back to biblical times. It is a place rich with history, though it’s also marked by tragedy. Just a few months prior to our visit, a tour bus full of tourists was targeted by a suicide bomber, who pulled up alongside them and detonated the explosion, killing everyone on board.

Into the Empty Quarter

Camping with the Bedouins

We traveled to the edge of the Empty Quarter and found some Bedouins willing to take us into the vast sand dunes for a night of camping. It was an unforgettable experience, surrounded by nothing but endless desert and the warmth of their hospitality.

beduin truck

Exploring the dunes in our vehicle

vast sand dunes of empty quarter

My footprints in the dunes

Empty dunes

Empty Quarter

The Majestic Sand Dunes

Camping Under the Full Moon

The sand dunes of the Empty Quarter were enormous. At night, we camped in the open dunes, surrounded by the vast emptiness, with only a small bonfire for light. The full moon illuminated the sand, creating a magical atmosphere. Exploring the dunes under the moonlight, running down the steep slopes, was an incredible experience.

We also had some fun with our Bedouin guide’s AK-47, shooting at cigarette butts scattered across the sand—an unexpected and exhilarating part of the adventure.

Shooting practice

me with an AK47

Our guide having fun with an AK47