Road Tripping Across Oman: A Gulf Adventure
In November 2013, as part of a two-week trip through Djibouti, Somaliland, and Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression, I made a stop in Dubai to visit my friend Evan, who was living there at the time. From there, we drove his car across the UAE and into Oman, spending a week camping and exploring some of the country’s wildest landscapes.
Oman: The Gulf’s Hidden Gem
Oman is hands down the most relaxed country in the Gulf. While it has its share of foreign workers, the chances of interacting with native Omanis are much higher than in other Gulf states. Unlike its neighbors, Oman is easy to explore independently, making it a haven for adventure travelers.
A Playground for Outdoor Exploration
The country boasts a burgeoning adventure scene, with opportunities for desert camping, oceanfront camping, wadi exploration, and mountain trekking. I was especially drawn to Oman’s massive cave systems, particularly the Majlis al Jinn (Cave of the Genies)—a nearly 1,000-foot vertical drop into a vast underground chamber. I had hoped to abseil into the cave, but unfortunately, the government and local villagers closed it off to foreigners due to past disrespectful behavior by visitors.
Even without the cave, Oman delivered—from its empty, untouched landscapes to its freshwater wadis, dramatic mountains, and endless desert horizons, it was the perfect off-the-grid adventure in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula.
Route we took in Oman
Oman’s Sultan: A Nation’s Beloved Leader
Oman is a Sultanate, ruled by Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, who had been in power since 1970. His image was everywhere—from public buildings to shops and billboards, always strikingly posed, glancing to his right.
Unlike many authoritarian rulers in the region, Sultan Qaboos was widely adored. During his reign, he modernized Oman, transforming it from a desert backwater into a developed, prosperous nation. Many Omanis seemed genuinely grateful, optimistic that even more progress was ahead.
Throughout the country, he had dozens of opulent palaces, but his rule felt less about excess and more about stability and national pride. His presence—both literal and symbolic—was unmistakable across Oman.
Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said Portrait in Sheraton hotel
Qaboos bin Said Al Said on front page of the Omani newspaper
Delays in Muscat: A Change of Plans
Evan and I planned to spend just one night in Muscat, staying at the Sheraton using points, but our stay stretched into two nights due to unexpected visa complications at the Yemen consulate. Our next destination after Oman was intended to be Socotra, Yemen.
Training for 7th Hole Cave… Only to Cancel
We had signed up to abseil into the legendary 7th Hole Cave, a massive underground sinkhole, and spent an entire day training at a climbing gym with instructors to prepare for the descent. However, my Yemen visa was not issued as expected.
Blacklisted in Yemen?
When we arrived at the Yemen consulate, we learned that authorities had flagged me—apparently, my activities from a previous trip to Yemen had raised suspicion, and I had been added to some sort of red list. The cave expedition was canceled, and we had to rethink our next move.
Salvaging the Trip: Heading South
Rather than waste time in bureaucratic limbo, we decided to cut our losses and drive south, exploring Oman’s vast countryside, eager to see what lay beyond Muscat’s city limits.
Me in the Muscat Souq with traditional Omani hat
The Mosque Alarm Clock Prank War
While wandering through Muscat’s souq, Evan and I each bought a mosque alarm clock, designed to remind the faithful of prayer time five times a day. Having always found the calls to prayer from mosques around the world to be beautiful, I assumed the alarm clock’s version would be the same.
I was wrong.
The sound was shrill, high-pitched, and screechy, more suited for torture than devotion. Naturally, we saw an opportunity for mischief.
For the rest of the trip, we took turns terrorizing each other, hiding the clock near each other’s tent so it would blare at the worst possible moment—in the dead of night, at dawn, or when least expected. With its strategic placement in inaccessible spots, retrieving it quickly was impossible, turning every rude awakening into a frustrating yet hilarious battle.
What started as a simple souvenir became the ultimate travel prank, adding a dose of chaos and comedy to our Oman road trip.
Mosque alarm clock
Evan and I with his vehicle we drove across Oman
Oman Road Trip: Open Roads, Kerala Burgers & Bootleg Booze
With a map, our own vehicle, and endless open roads, Evan and I drove wherever adventure led us, passing through quiet villages with curious locals.
We mostly ate fast food. Surprisingly, every village had a fast-food burger joint, all run by South Indian expats from Kerala—these became our go-to meals.
Since alcohol is restricted in Oman, we smuggled liquor from Dubai, enjoying a nightly drink under the stars, embracing the freedom of the road.
Goats eating the soccer net in an Omani village
Ubiquitous roadside burger and coffee shops run by South Indian expats from Kerala
Evan showing a local man his photo
Friendly Omani man we met at a cafe
Omani Boy
Omani girl
Friendly girl
Serene Campsites & Unbothered Solitude
We camped in beautiful, remote spots, where permission wasn’t needed and solitude was guaranteed. Mornings brought fishermen on the beaches or Bedouins grazing goats in the desert, but no one ever hassled us—just quiet coexistence in Oman’s vast, open landscapes.
Camping on empty beach
Camping on empty beach
Camping on empty beach
Bimah Sinkhole: A Stunning but Chilly Stop
We visited the impressive Bimah Sinkhole, a breathtaking natural limestone crater filled with turquoise water. Though it was tempting to swim, the water was too cold, so we simply admired the view before continuing our journey.
Bimah Sinkhole
Wadi Shab: A Canyon Oasis
Hiking Wadi Shab was a trip highlight—with its dramatic cliffs, turquoise pools, and hidden caves, it was perfect for swimming and exploring. We spent the day immersing ourselves in this natural wonder, but Oman has many more remote wadis that require overnight treks and camping—an adventure I’d love to tackle on a return trip.
Wadi Shab
Wadi Shab-where we swam and did some cliff jumping
Into the Wild: Selma Plateau & Oman’s Deep Caves
From Wadi Shab, we drove into the rugged, remote Selma Plateau, where only 4WD vehicles can handle the rough roads—though we still got stuck a few times.
This plateau is home to Oman’s largest sinkhole caves, including 7th Hole Cave and the legendary Cave of the Genies. While our 7th Hole Cave descent didn’t happen, I plan to return and complete it.
Rumors suggest the Cave of the Genies might be turned into a tourist attraction with an elevator, though this hasn’t materialized yet. I hope it never does—some places should stay wild.
Road up the Selma Plateau
Road up the Selma Plateau/Frankinsense Trees that Oman was famous for during biblical times
Random camels
The Cave of the Genies: A 1,000-Foot Abyss
At the edge of the Cave of the Genies, a gaping 1,000-foot pit plunged into darkness, the wind howling eerily from within. A small group of local villagers stood at the unfenced entrance, peering into the abyss.
With no barriers or safety measures, it would be far too easy to misstep and fall to certain death. The cave carried an ominous energy, its name rooted in local legends of spirits that were said to dwell within its depths.
Omani locals standing next to the entrance of the Cave of Genies.
Into the Dunes: Camping in Wahiba Sands
After a long drive, we arrived at Wahiba Sands, a vast coastal desert of rolling dunes—not to be confused with the Empty Quarter, the world’s largest sand sea along the Saudi border.
Reaching Wahiba at night, we followed a sand track, then simply pulled over on a dune, lit a bonfire, and enjoyed a few drinks under the endless desert sky—a perfect, unplanned night in Oman’s wilderness.
Camping in Wahiba Sands
Sunrise Over the Dunes & An Unexpected Exchange
At dawn, we woke to a breathtaking sea of rolling sand dunes stretching endlessly before us. Climbing to the top of a dune, we watched the sunrise paint the desert in golden hues, a surreal and peaceful moment.
As we broke camp, a Bedouin man from a nearby tent encampment approached us, carrying a small pot of sweet boiled tea. He graciously offered us a cup, and we gratefully accepted, savoring the warm hospitality Oman is known for.
Just as we were about to leave, he gestured again. Initially, I thought he was inviting us to his camp for more tea, but after a few more signals, it became clear—he was asking for money.
It was disappointing. After experiencing Oman’s remarkable hospitality everywhere else, I hadn’t expected a simple act of kindness to come with a price tag. Still, I handed him a few dollars, and we continued on our journey, leaving Wahiba Sands behind.
Sunrise in Wahiba Sands
Camping in Wahiba Sands
Exploring Oman’s Empty Forts
Scattered across the country, Oman’s historic forts stood as silent guardians of the past. Like much of Oman, they were empty and untouched by crowds, making them fun to explore freely, with no barriers or restrictions—just centuries-old walls, winding staircases, and sweeping desert views.
Locals at an Omani Fort
Ras Al Jinz: A Glimpse of Turtle Conservation
Our final stop was the turtle nesting sanctuary of Ras Al Jinz, where we hiked to the beach at sunrise, hoping to catch a glimpse of nesting sea turtles. While we didn’t see any turtles, we spotted tracks leading to the ocean and marked nesting areas, protected by local villagers from predators like stray dogs.
It was reassuring to see fishermen also playing a role in conservation, actively involved in protecting the turtles rather than harming them—a rare balance between tradition and preservation.
Ras Al Jinz Turtle nesting beach
The Forgotten Tomb of Bibi Maryam
As evening fell, we wandered along the beach near Ras Al Jinz and stumbled upon the abandoned ancient tomb of Bibi Maryam. She was the wife of Bahauddin Ayaz, prince of Hormuz, and the daughter-in-law of the empire’s founder.
Bahauddin Ayaz retired to Qalhat, his ancestral home, where he died in 1312 AD (712 AH). In his honor, Bibi Maryam built a grand mausoleum, a structure that still stands in crumbling solitude today.
Famed traveler Ibn Battuta recorded that she also constructed a splendid mosque overlooking the sea and harbor, likely near the mausoleum. Even centuries later, her legacy endures in the ruins, a testament to a powerful and pious woman whose reputation even the Portuguese respected.
Tomb of Bibi Maryam
The Long Drive Back & a Surfing Detour
From Oman, we embarked on the long drive back to Dubai, making just one stop in Al Ain to surf in a manmade wave pool—an unexpected yet fun way to wrap up our Omani road trip before crossing back into the UAE.