Arrival in Northern Saudi Arabia
From Egypt, we flew into Tabuk, where we began the next part of our journey—a week-long adventure driving across northern Saudi Arabia between Tabuk and AlUla.
This region is one of the most dramatic in the country, and easily one of the most beautiful desert landscapes I’ve seen anywhere in the world. It’s filled with rugged desert mountains, ancient trade routes, and archaeological sites that have only recently opened to travelers.
This part of Saudi Arabia felt far more visually striking than what I experienced on my first trip nearly ten years ago, when I focused on the eastern desert near Riyadh, exploring caves and more barren terrain.
Highlights of the Journey
Our plan was simple: rent a car and explore the region, stopping wherever the landscape or history pulled us in. But along the way, there were a few mandatory stops.
Climbing Jebel al-Lawz
One of the most exciting goals of the trip was climbing Jebel al-Lawz, a remote mountain that some believe could be the biblical Mount Sinai.
Reaching the summit and exploring the surrounding desert landscapes was something I had wanted to do for years.
Camping at Al Hisma Oasis
We also planned to spend time camping in the stunning desert landscapes of Hisma Desert, where towering sandstone formations rise from the red sand. The area is quiet, remote, and incredibly scenic — perfect for a night under the stars.
Exploring the Tombs of Hegra
The final highlight would be visiting Hegra, located near AlUla.
These ancient tombs, carved directly into sandstone cliffs by the Nabataeans over 2,000 years ago, are often compared to Petra in Jordan but are far less visited.
It was the perfect next chapter after Egypt — continuing the journey through ancient civilizations, deserts, and forgotten landscapes.
Jebel Namqla, Mount Sinai
About Jebel Namqla (Real Mount Sinai)
Climbing Jebel Namqla
Climbing Jebel al-Lawz, also known locally as Jebel Namqla and believed by some Christians and biblical scholars to be the real Mount Sinai, was one of the main motivations for my return to Saudi Arabia.
Preparing for the Climb
My family took the opportunity to rest for the day at our hotel in Tabuk, which they badly needed after the long stretch of travel through Egypt and the desert.
Meanwhile, my friend Jimmie — who had flown in to meet my family for the week in Saudi Arabia — joined me for the climb.
Finding the Mountain
We also had the help of a local Filipino resident who knew the location of the mountain. He drove out with us and helped guide us to the base of the mountain, which is not always easy to find in the remote desert terrain.
He was willing to help us reach the starting point and give us some basic guidance on the route, but he wasn’t planning to climb with us. Instead, he stayed behind with our car while Jimmie and I set off toward the mountain.
A Difficult Climb
The hike turned out to be much harder than we expected. There were no marked trails — just steep rock, loose gravel, and rough desert terrain. We had to pick our way upward carefully, often scrambling over rocks and climbing through narrow gaps in the mountain.
Over the course of about six hours we pushed upward, collecting plenty of cuts and scrapes along the way.
Eventually, we reached the summit.
Standing at the top after such a difficult climb felt incredible, especially knowing the long history and speculation surrounding the mountain. After taking in the views and catching our breath, we began the descent and finally made our way back down to our vehicle where our driver had been patiently waiting for us.
Mount Sinai
Me in Elijahs Cave
Elijah’s Cave
Early in the climb, we scrambled up to a small cave known as Elijah’s Cave, a place some believe is where the prophet Elijah once waited for God. The cave sits tucked into the mountainside and provided a brief moment to rest and take in the silence of the surrounding desert.
Toward the Blackened Peak
From the cave, the climb became steeper. We scaled a difficult section of rock to reach another plateau higher up the mountain. From there, we could clearly see the darkened summit of Sinai rising above us.
Seeing the peak in full view was both encouraging and daunting.
From that plateau it took roughly another hour of climbing to reach the summit. The final stretch involved more scrambling over rough rock before we finally stood on top of the mountain.
Blackened peak of Mount Sinai
View from the Summit
The Engraved Calf Stones
At the base of Jebel al-Lawz, believed by some to be the true Mount Sinai, there is a remarkable collection of large boulders covered with ancient engravings.
Carved into several of these stones are figures of calves. Many people who visit the site believe these carvings symbolize the Golden Calf described in the biblical account, where the Israelites created a golden idol while waiting for Moses to return from the mountain.
Standing among these massive stones, with the engravings etched into their surfaces, it is easy to see why the location has sparked so much interest and debate among visitors, historians, and biblical researchers.
Altar of the golden calf
Me at altar of golden calf
Into the Hisah Desert
From Tabuk, we drove a few hours through empty desert roads, first following stretches along the Red Sea before turning inland toward the small village oasis of Al Hisah Desert.
The landscape changed dramatically as we approached the region. Towering sandstone mountains rose from deep red sand, forming one of the most beautiful desert landscapes anywhere in the world.
Exploring the Canyon Landscape
At Al Hisma we hired a jeep and local driver to take us deeper into the desert. The terrain here is extremely rugged, filled with narrow canyons, steep rock formations, and winding desert tracks that would be nearly impossible to navigate without a proper vehicle and someone who knows the area.
The drive itself became part of the adventure as we bounced through sandy valleys and carved sandstone corridors.
Camping with the Bedouin
That night we camped out in the desert with the Bedouin. As the sun disappeared behind the sandstone cliffs, the desert turned quiet and cool.
We sat around a small fire in the sand, surrounded by towering red rock formations and endless desert in every direction — one of those places where the silence feels as vast as the landscape itself.
Al Hisah Desert
Al Hisah Desert
Al Hisah Desert
Al Hisah Desert
Al Hisah Desert
Al Hisah Desert
Al Hisah Desert
Camping in the Red Desert
Camping under the stars in the red desert of Hisma Desert with the Bedouin was an incredible experience, and the second time on our trip that we had spent the night camping in the desert.
After the sun dropped behind the towering sandstone cliffs, the temperature cooled quickly and the desert fell into complete silence. We sat with the Bedouin around the fire while they prepared a simple meal, the red sand glowing softly under the moonlight.
Looking up, the sky was completely filled with stars — far from any cities or artificial light. Between our night in Egypt’s White Desert National Park and this camp in Saudi Arabia, the trip had given us two unforgettable nights sleeping under some of the darkest skies in the world.
Desert Camping
Indie and Paula
Desert Camping
Morning in the desert
Campfire
Arrival in AlUla
From Hisma Desert near Al Hisah, we drove about four hours across the desert to AlUla, one of the most historically rich regions in Saudi Arabia. The drive itself was spectacular, with desert mountains and sandstone cliffs appearing across the horizon as we approached the oasis valley.
We stayed in a simple apartment rental in town, which made a comfortable base for exploring the area.
The Tombs of Hegra
Our main reason for coming to AlUla was to visit the ancient Nabataean tombs of Hegra. These massive tombs were carved directly into the sandstone cliffs more than 2,000 years ago by the Nabataeans — the same civilization that built Petra in Jordan.
Walking among the tombs felt surreal. The enormous façades rise directly out of the desert rock, each one carved with intricate architectural details and inscriptions that have survived for centuries.
Despite their scale and beauty, the site feels remarkably quiet compared to other famous archaeological sites in the region, giving visitors the rare feeling of exploring something ancient and largely undiscovered.
View from Hegra
Hegra Rocks
Tombs
Indie next to a tomb
Hegra
Hegra
Hegra
Hegra
Hegra
The Final Leg of the Journey
From AlUla, we flew north through Jeddah and onward to Istanbul, beginning the final chapter of our long family adventure.
The trip had started more than two weeks earlier in Prague, and since then we had crossed deserts, climbed mountains, explored ancient tombs, and visited some of the most fascinating places in the world.
One Last Stop: Cappadocia
Our last destination before heading home would be Cappadocia, a region famous for its surreal landscapes of stone pillars, cave dwellings, and ancient underground cities carved into the soft volcanic rock.
After Cappadocia, our long journey would finally come to an end as we returned home to San Diego — carrying with us memories from a trip that had taken us across Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East.