Exploring Kuwait: A Gulf War Memory and a Unique Stopover
November 2013: Kuwait wasn’t originally at the top of my Middle Eastern travel list, but when planning a long 20-something-day journey through the Middle East and West Africa, I saw an opportunity. The main goal of the trip was visiting Socotra, the legendary Yemeni island known for its otherworldly landscapes, but I hadn’t been to Kuwait yet, and a stopover felt like a natural addition. Unlike other Gulf states like Bahrain, the UAE, and Qatar, Kuwait intrigued me in a different way—its history, its role in the Gulf War, and the fact that I had watched the country unfold on TV as a kid when Saddam Hussein’s Iraqi forces rolled in, sparking the first Gulf War.
I traveled with my friends Tim and Dan, spending three days exploring Kuwait City and beyond. My goal? To see if I could find relics from the Gulf War, experience the country firsthand, and gain a deeper understanding of its place in the modern Middle East.
A Few Things You Might Not Know About Kuwait
- Ancient Mesopotamian Ties: Most of present-day Kuwait was historically part of ancient Mesopotamia, one of the cradles of civilization.
- A Contested Past: Iraq’s claim over Kuwait wasn’t just about oil—historically, Kuwait had been part of the Ottoman Empire’s Basra province. Iraq considered it rightful Iraqi territory, but Kuwait became a British protectorate before gaining full sovereignty.
- Ruling Emirate: Kuwait is ruled by an Emir, maintaining a monarchy in a region where leadership structures vary widely.
- Foreign Workers Outnumber Locals: Expats and migrant workers make up nearly two-thirds of Kuwait’s population.
- Oil Wealth: Kuwait has the sixth-largest oil reserves in the world—a key factor in its economic standing and the Gulf War.
- Water from the Sea: With no natural freshwater sources, Kuwait relies entirely on desalination plants for drinking water, drawing from the Persian Gulf.
- Slavery Abolished in 1949: While it might be shocking, Kuwait formally abolished slavery just a few decades before gaining independence in 1961.
Location of Kuwait
Mural of Ruling Kuwaiti Sheiks and Emir commonly displayed
Dan at the airport in Kuwait City looking out of place
Arriving in Kuwait: First Impressions and an Early Wake-Up Call
My friends and I landed in Kuwait City late in the evening, flying in on Kuwait Airways from the USA. After navigating immigration, we checked into the Hotel-Continental Suite Farwaniya, one of the more budget-friendly options—though in Kuwait, “budget-friendly” is relative. Thanks to the Kuwaiti dinar being the most valuable currency in the world, everything from food to accommodations comes at a premium.
We only had two nights in Kuwait, so we wanted to make the most of our time. But before we even had a chance to properly settle in, our first cultural experience came at dawn—and it caught my friends off guard.
The Unexpected Alarm Clock
Before sunrise, my friends were jolted awake by the sound of multiple mosques broadcasting the call to prayer across the city. It was loud, insistent, and unlike anything they had ever heard before. I couldn’t help but laugh at their confusion as they groggily tried to process what was happening.
“Why is this happening so early?” one of them muttered.
While they were perplexed, I found it oddly enchanting—as I often do when traveling in the Muslim world. The adhan (call to prayer) is a quintessential part of daily life in many countries, and while its timing can be jarring for first-time visitors, there’s something undeniably atmospheric about hearing it echo through the streets before the city fully awakens.
For my friends, it was an unexpected initiation into Middle Eastern culture. For me, it was a familiar reminder that we were far from home—and that the real adventure was just beginning.
Desert Trip to look for an Iraqi Tank Graveyard
A Day in Kuwait: Searching for War Relics in the Desert
With just one full day to explore Kuwait, I had one mission in mind—venturing into the vast desert west of Kuwait City, a barren, almost post-apocalyptic landscape that looked like a no man’s land. I had read about an Iraqi tank graveyard—a haunting remnant from the Gulf War—rumored to still exist out there. While its exact status was uncertain, I had GPS coordinates and some vague directions from other travelers. That was enough for me to give it a shot.
First, Coffee—Because Kuwait Is More American Than You Think
Before heading into the desert, we flagged down a taxi and negotiated an hourly rate with the driver. Unlike in many countries where meters run by default, taxi fares in Kuwait are often settled upfront through bargaining. With a deal in place, we set off—but not before stopping at Starbucks for some much-needed caffeine.
It might sound strange to start an adventure into the Middle Eastern desert with a caramel macchiato, but Kuwait is surprisingly Americanized. Between its luxury malls, fast food chains, and Western franchises, you’re never too far from a reminder of the U.S.—a side effect of its close political and economic ties. Yet, step beyond the shiny modernity of Kuwait City, and the landscape quickly transforms into something completely different—endless dunes, forgotten war relics, and a silence that tells its own stories.
Fueled by coffee and curiosity, we left the city behind, pushing deeper into the desert in search of history. Would the tank graveyard still be there? That was the mystery we were about to uncover.
Tim in the Kuwait desert
A Wild Goose Chase in the Kuwaiti Desert
Fueled by caffeine and optimism, we drove for hours into the desert, following rough directions and GPS coordinates, hoping to find the Iraqi tank graveyard—one of the last physical remnants of the Gulf War. The deeper we went, the more isolated the landscape became. The city and its modern skyline faded behind us, replaced by an endless, barren expanse of sand and scorching heat.
Eventually, we reached an American military guard post, where we got the disappointing news:
The tank graveyard no longer existed.
All the wreckage had been recycled for metal, and the site was now on a restricted military base. There was another rumored tank graveyard on Failaka Island, but reaching it would require a ferry ride, and with limited time, it wasn’t an option. Our grand plan had fizzled out, leaving us in the middle of nowhere with nothing to do but keep exploring.
A Desert of Garbage and Camels
Kuwait’s desert was unlike any I had seen before. I’ve been to some of the world’s most spectacular deserts—the dunes of the Namib, the Martian landscapes of the Atacama, the red sands of Wadi Rum—but this? This was different. It was a flat, windswept wasteland, and instead of dramatic rock formations or rolling dunes, the most prominent features were plastic bags and trash scattered across the sand. Of all the deserts I had visited, this was one of the least visually appealing.
The only excitement came from the occasional camel wandering in the distance and the sight of large Bedouin-style tent camps set up in the middle of nowhere. Our taxi driver, a foreign worker, explained that these were used by Kuwaiti families looking to escape the city for a taste of their ancestral desert life. They’d spend the weekend in the tents, having family gatherings and barbecues, a modern take on their Bedouin heritage.
It was an interesting contrast—on one hand, Kuwait is one of the richest countries in the world, with glittering malls and a skyline of glass and steel. On the other, its people still cling to traditions that connect them to a time before oil wealth transformed their society.
Wrapping Up Our Day in the Desert
With no tank graveyard to explore and nothing but heat, wind, and garbage stretching to the horizon, we eventually decided to call it a day. The adventure hadn’t gone as planned, but it had still given us a glimpse into a different side of Kuwait—one far removed from its modern, high-rise capital.
Kuwait may not be known for its epic landscapes, but in its own way, the desert still told a story—one of history, tradition, and the surprising ways the past and present coexist in this small yet significant Gulf nation.
A patch of desert with no garbage, except the slab of wood Tim found and tried to smack Dan across the head with.
Camel being hauled on the back of a truck on the highway
Kuwait’s Iconic Water Towers
After exploring the desert, we visited Kuwait’s famous Water Towers, built in the 1970s and shelled by the Iraqi army during the Gulf War. These futuristic structures serve as both water storage and a tourist attraction, though they were closed during our visit, so we couldn’t climb to the top.
Despite this, standing beneath them was a reminder of Kuwait’s resilience, a country shaped by both modern wealth and a turbulent past.
Iraqi water tanks
Iraqi water tanks
Nighttime in Kuwait: The Best Way to Explore
Our favorite part of Kuwait was exploring on foot at night along the Persian Gulf waterfront and souq. With the heat and humidity making daytime walks unbearable, the city truly came alive after sunset.
We strolled along the shoreline, sat at the end of a pier, and relaxed at outdoor waterfront cafés, sipping tea and smoking hookah while watching the city lights reflect off the water. Most of the markets we found were indoor and air-conditioned, including a bustling fish market.
Kuwaitis stood out as friendlier than people in some other Gulf countries—if you could actually find one, as most workers were expats. While wandering the waterfront, we met a few locals and even got invited in for tea by a group of men when we mistakenly walked into their home while searching for a café. It was a genuine, unplanned moment of Arab hospitality, and a memorable way to end our time in Kuwait.
Cafes
Dan smoking a hookah pipe in an outdoor cafe
Fish market
An Unexpected Cinema Experience in Kuwait
Wanting a break from the heat, we decided to watch a movie at a shopping mall theater. While watching a film itself wasn’t exciting, doing it in Kuwait added an exotic twist. The theater was nearly empty, so we picked prime seats in the middle—only to be quickly relocated to a corner where a group of men were already seated.
A theater worker explained that we had unknowingly sat in the family section, which was off-limits to lone men. Even though the section was empty, the possibility that a woman might sit there meant we had to move to the only occupied area, even if it meant worse seats. It was an unexpected cultural rule, but as visitors, we played by it.
Kuwait’s Malls: Wealth on Display
Like much of Kuwait City, the mall was filled with American chain stores—Burger King, Starbucks, luxury designer boutiques—a testament to the country’s wealth and Western influence. Kuwaitis came here to spend their money, and it was clear who had it.
Most men wore traditional thobes, and women dressed in black abayas, but beneath the modest attire, luxury was everywhere—designer handbags, gleaming watches, and high-end accessories. It was a fascinating contrast: a culture that blended deep-rooted traditions with opulence, all under the fluorescent glow of a shopping mall.
Typical scene in shopping mall
Onward to Dubai and Sharjah: The Journey to Socotra Begins
After our time in Kuwait City, we caught a flight to Dubai, spending the night in Sharjah, the neighboring emirate known for its more conservative atmosphere. This was just a quick stopover, as the next morning, we would finally embark on the main goal of our trip—Socotra Island, Yemen.
With our adventure in Kuwait behind us, we were now one step closer to one of the most remote and untouched places on Earth.