Three Days in Burkina Faso: An Underrated Gem of West Africa
November 2017: As part of a larger two-week journey through South Sudan, Benin, and Togo, I spent three days in Burkina Faso with my friend Richard.
We arranged for a 4WD vehicle with a driver/guide in Ouagadougou, the capital, to take us on an overland journey across West Africa—all the way to Lomé, Togo.
What astonished me the most was the cost—despite the long distances, rough roads, and ambitious itinerary, hiring a driver and vehicle was shockingly cheap, especially compared to other parts of Africa.
First Impressions: Burkina Faso’s Authentic Soul
Burkina Faso is a country that few tourists visit, yet it holds an incredible energy.
🎶 Its music scene is legendary—the streets of Ouagadougou pulse with the sounds of live drumming, West African rhythms, and traditional griot storytelling.
🤝 The people are warm and welcoming, with a genuine hospitality that felt untainted by mass tourism.
🌍 It maintains an authentic appeal—Burkina Faso is not polished for visitors; it is raw, real, and bursting with culture.
From the moment we arrived, it felt like we had stepped into a place where tradition and modernity intertwined seamlessly, where everyday life unfolded without the influence of mass tourism.
Burkina Faso may not be on many travelers’ lists, but for those who venture here, it offers one of the most authentic experiences in West Africa.
About Burkina Faso
Burkina Faso: A Country on the Edge, Yet Rich in Culture
Burkina Faso is a landlocked Sahelian nation that was once a French colony. While it is mostly Muslim, it also has a significant population of animists who practice traditional African religions, keeping ancient spiritual beliefs alive in the modern era.
It is one of the poorest countries in the world, and its history has been marked by frequent military coups—so much so that as a tourist, you have to accept the real possibility that you might find yourself in the middle of one.
A Nation in Conflict
In recent years, Burkina Faso has been embroiled in a war against Islamic militants, with violent extremist groups operating along the borders of Mali, Niger, and Benin.
These terrorist factions have targeted foreigners, particularly tourists and aid workers—kidnapping for ransom and, in some cases, murdering them.
As a result, Burkina Faso has largely disappeared from the tourist map, with much of the country too unstable to visit safely.
A Carefully Planned Route
For my visit, I carefully planned an itinerary that avoided the most dangerous regions, though heightened caution was still necessary—particularly near the Togo border.
Our plan was to:
✈️ Fly into Ouagadougou and hire a 4WD vehicle with a local driver-guide.
🐊 Visit Bazoulé’s Sacred Crocodile Pond, where locals believe the crocodiles are spiritually connected to their ancestors and even swim among them.
🎨 Explore the animist-painted village of Tiébélé, a small community known for its ornately decorated Kassena-style mud houses—where my guide happened to be from.
🚙 Cross overland into Kande, Togo, continuing our journey through West Africa’s hidden cultural gems.
Despite the increasing instability in Burkina Faso, my brief time there offered a glimpse into a country rich in history, culture, and resilience—a place that, under different circumstances, could be one of the most fascinating destinations in West Africa.
Our route
Ouagadougou
First Night in Ouagadougou: A Low-Profile Stay and a Love for Burkinabé Music
For our first night in Burkina Faso, I deliberately chose Hôtel Jardin De Koulouba, a small, French-run guesthouse on the outskirts of Ouagadougou.
My decision was not random—in recent years, several high-profile hotels in the capital had been attacked by terrorists, making it clear that luxury accommodations were a target. By choosing a lower-profile, less conspicuous guesthouse, I hoped to reduce the risk of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.
That being said, security was still tight.
The guesthouse was surrounded by a high wall, and armed guards patrolled the entrance, a stark reminder of the ever-present threat in Burkina Faso.
A Rough Start: Car Trouble Before the Journey Even Began
The next morning, before setting off on our long overland trip, we took our 4WD vehicle for a test drive—and it broke down just a few feet from the hotel.
At first, this felt like a terrible omen, but in hindsight, we were lucky—had this happened deep in the remote Sahel, it could have derailed our entire trip or left us stranded in a dangerous area.
Fortunately, we were able to swap the vehicle for another one before hitting the road.
Ouagadougou’s Nightlife: Discovering the Rhythm of Burkina Faso
The neighborhood around the guesthouse was quiet and rustic, a nice contrast to the chaotic heart of Ouagadougou.
As the evening settled in, I went for a walk through the dusty streets, drawn toward the sound of live music drifting from local bars.
Burkina Faso is home to some of West Africa’s most underrated music, and I’ve always loved its vibrant, percussive rhythms. So, I found a small bar with a live band, grabbed a beer, and soaked it all in.
As the only foreigner in the bar, I definitely attracted some attention—but it was all positive. Locals were curious, friendly, and welcoming, excited to see a traveler appreciating their culture and music.
Sitting there, watching the band play, sipping cold beer, and feeling the energy of the crowd, I knew I was in the right place.
For all of Burkina Faso’s instability and challenges, its spirit was undeniably alive in its music.
Bajoule, Sacred Crocodile Pond
Bajoulé’s Sacred Crocodile Pond: Sitting on 15-Foot Reincarnated Ancestors
Before coming to Burkina Faso, I had seen photos of foreigners sitting on the backs of crocodiles, their expressions a mix of thrill and unease.
It looked touristy, and in a country with so few visitors, it seemed like the one place every traveler eventually ended up.
But in my book, if I’m going to visit a touristy place, it might as well be a crocodile pond in Burkina Faso—where the villagers believe their ancestors are reincarnated into massive crocodiles, where you can feed live chickens to them, and, if you’re brave enough, sit on their backs.
The crocodiles are sacred to the animist villagers and are never hunted or harmed. Over the years, the pond has become a famous stop for travelers, but it still retains its eerie, mythical charm.
A Sudden Encounter with the Guardians of the Lake
The next morning, we drove an hour south to the dusty village of Bajoulé, where a local guide met us and led us toward the pond.
As part of our entrance fee, we were handed four or five live, malnourished chickens—a grim but necessary tribute to the crocodiles.
The pond itself was less of a pond and more of a muddy lake, located right in the heart of the village.
👕 Villagers were washing clothes along the banks.
🎣 A few fishermen cast their nets.
🐊 But there were no crocodiles in sight.
I turned to the guide and asked, “Where are the crocodiles?”
He simply smiled and said, “Turn around.”
As soon as I did, dozens of enormous crocodiles began emerging from the water, creeping onto the shore with eerie stealth.
Feeding the Beasts
The guide tossed the first chicken to a crocodile.
With a lightning-fast snap of its jaws, the chicken was gone—swallowed whole, like a Skittle.
The same process played out again and again, each time with the same brutal efficiency.
I felt a little bad for the chickens, but at least it was a quick end.
Then, something unexpected happened—one chicken actually managed to escape.
As the others were being swallowed whole, this little guy made a mad dash into the bushes.
I silently rooted for him—maybe this one would be the survivor, the chicken that got away.
For a moment, it seemed like he had made it. A clean break. A second chance at life.
But then, for reasons beyond comprehension, the chicken turned around and ran straight back toward the pond.
Before anyone could react, a crocodile lunged and snatched him up.
I could only shake my head—maybe freedom was just too overwhelming for him.
Sitting on a Predator: No Thanks
The crocodiles were massive, menacing, and fully capable of killing a man in seconds.
Yet, despite their lethal potential, they were shockingly calm, allowing us to stand right next to them—some villagers even encouraged us to sit on their backs.
The villagers claimed no one had ever been attacked—after all, the crocodiles were reincarnated ancestors, and as long as they were fed regularly, they posed no threat.
Still, having just witnessed their speed firsthand, I wasn’t about to gamble a limb for the sake of a photo.
I took a picture standing near one, but I passed on sitting atop a 15-foot prehistoric killing machine.
(That photo, unfortunately, is now lost—but the memory remains.)
A Tourist Attraction Like No Other
Despite its popularity, Bajoulé’s Sacred Crocodile Pond still felt genuine—a place where mythology and reality intertwined, where modern tourism met ancient beliefs.
Few places let you feed live chickens to a sacred predator, fewer still allow you to sit on their backs, and only in Burkina Faso would you find villagers treating massive crocodiles as revered ancestors rather than fearsome beasts.
Even for someone who usually avoids touristy spots, this one was worth every second.
Giant crocodile
Hungry Crocodile
Villager showing his affection for crocodiles
Feeding crocodiles live chickens
Tiebele Village Painted Village
Tiebele: A Window into the Timeless World of the Kassena People
From Bajoulé, we drove several hours south, traversing stark and desolate countryside.
Along the way, we passed picturesque villages that felt frozen in time—clusters of mud-brick homes, built using traditional materials, completely cut off from the modern world. No electricity, no paved roads—just pure, unfiltered life, untouched by globalization.
Tiebele: The Painted Jewel of Burkina Faso
Tiebele, along with a few other villages in the region, is famous for its elaborately painted houses, which belong to the royal court and nobility of the Kassena people.
Unlike other historical sites that have been abandoned or turned into museums, these houses are still lived in today, maintained through centuries-old traditions.
The designs are not just decorative—they hold deep symbolic meanings tied to the spiritual beliefs of the Kassena people.
🎨 Each house is covered in intricate geometric and animal motifs, representing:
✅ Strength and protection (crocodiles and tortoises)
✅ Wisdom and guidance (owls and serpents)
✅ Community and fertility (interwoven patterns and sacred symbols)
Every year, local villagers repaint the houses, ensuring that the artwork remains vibrant and well-preserved.
A Guide with Deep Roots
Luckily, our guide was from the village, which gave us an intimate, insider’s experience.
He wore his traditional handmade Kassena shirt, the same style that generations of men in this region have worn. His connection to the village made the experience less voyeuristic—we weren’t just outsiders peering in, but guests welcomed into a living culture.
Spiritual Rituals and Ancient Practices
As we walked through the village, we saw stone slabs stained from ritualistic sacrifices.
🐐 Goats and chickens are offered during certain ceremonies, often tied to protection, blessings, and communication with ancestral spirits.
🔥 These traditions have endured for centuries, and unlike in many parts of West Africa, modernization hasn’t erased them.
Here, animism is still alive—the belief that spirits exist in nature, animals, and even within the sacred houses themselves.
A Timeless Experience
Tiebele was one of the most visually stunning and culturally immersive places I had visited in Burkina Faso.
It felt like a place where history and the present coexisted seamlessly, where people still lived according to the customs of their ancestors.
Far from being just another tourist site, this was a breathing, functioning community, proudly preserving its identity in a rapidly changing world.
Tiebele Village
Tiebele Village
My guide in his traditional shirt of the Tiebele area inside one of the royal houses with fine interior wood paneling of polished mahogony
Friendly Village Girl
Village Life
Girl sitting on one of the stone slabs used to sacrifice animals during rituals inside the Royale village
Friendly lady and baby
Tiebele House
Village Life
School kid studying under a giant ancient boabab tree
Sleeping on a Rooftop in Tiebele and a Bizarre Early Morning Protest
That night, we stayed in one of the village compounds, surrounded by the intricately painted houses of the Kassena people.
With no electricity and temperatures still soaring even after sunset, sleeping inside was not an option—it would have been like roasting in an oven.
Instead, I dragged my mat up to the rooftop and slept beneath the open sky, with nothing but the faint sounds of distant voices and the warm Sahelian breeze.
It was one of those pure, uninterrupted nights, where modern distractions didn’t exist—just me, the stars, and the stillness of a place lost in time.
An Unusual Wake-Up Call: The Student Protest
I woke up early the next morning to the clatter of footsteps and the rhythmic chants of children.
Rubbing my eyes, I peeked over the edge of the roof and saw about 50 school-aged kids marching past the house.
Some carried bicycles, others clutched schoolbooks, and all of them were chanting in unison—a small but determined protest against their school.
It was truly bizarre—I had never seen children staging a demonstration against their own school before.
I wasn’t sure what exactly they were protesting, but one thing was clear:
They refused to go back to class until their grievances were addressed.
And honestly? I was envious.
I never staged a school protest as a kid, but looking down at these fiercely defiant students, I couldn’t help but wish I had.
Rooftop where I slept in the open on my sleeping mattress
School children protest
Navigating the Chaos: A Lost Journey to the Togo Border
Our last day in Burkina Faso was spent driving all day toward the Togo border—a journey that quickly turned into one of the most nerve-wracking experiences of the trip.
The roads? Terrible.
The GPS? Useless.
The route? Unclear.
At times, we found ourselves completely lost, following barely visible 4WD tracks, sometimes cutting straight through open fields.
The farther we went, the more we realized how isolated and vulnerable we were.
This wasn’t just a harmless detour—we were deep in a restive border region known for Islamic terrorist activity and armed bandits.
With no villages or checkpoints to ask for directions, we relied on instinct and scattered road signs, all while keeping an uneasy eye on our surroundings.
Every so often, we saw small figures moving in the distance—people on foot, some on motorbikes. Friend or foe? Hard to tell. Every wrong turn felt like a potential risk.
Kande Border: The Wildest Border Crossing Yet
After hours of frustration, anxiety, and trial-and-error navigation, we finally reached the Kande border—a place that can only be described as a dusty, chaotic mess.
🔹 Border officials moved at a glacial pace, treating the crossing as an opportunity for random interrogations and document inspections.
🔹 The process was confusing, slow, and riddled with bribes—a standard expectation in this part of the world.
🔹 And then, as if the scene wasn’t surreal enough, a crazed naked man was running around the border post, yelling at people.
No one seemed particularly concerned about him. He was just…there, adding to the general atmosphere of absurdity and exhaustion.
At this point, we knew we wouldn’t be able to navigate this bureaucracy alone, so we paid a local fixer—a guy who made a living helping foreigners cut through the red tape.
With his “assistance” (and a few discreet payments), we finally managed to cross into Togo, leaving behind one of the most grueling and bizarre border crossings I’ve ever experienced.
We had officially made it out of Burkina Faso—but the adventure was far from over.