A Journey to Togo: Discovering the Tammari People
November 2017: My friend Richard and I traveled in our own vehicle with a driver through Togo as part of a larger West Africa adventure, which also took us through Benin, Burkina Faso, and South Sudan.
Togo was one of those little countries with a cute name that I knew nothing about before visiting. Sandwiched between nations I was more familiar with, I wasn’t sure what to expect.
Unlike some destinations where I had clear objectives, in Togo, I arrived without a set plan.
Why Togo? Seeking the Tammari People
While researching, I stumbled upon something that piqued my interest—the Tammari people of northern Togo.
This unique tribal group is known for:
- Their fortified clay houses, resembling miniature castles built for both protection and practicality.
- A way of life deeply tied to their land, with traditional customs still largely intact.
- Their distinct architecture and traditions, which set them apart from other West African ethnic groups.
So, with no concrete itinerary but a clear goal, I set off into the unknown heart of Togo, eager to discover the untouched tribal culture of the north.
About Togo
Exploring Togo: From the Tammari Villages to Lomé
Togo is a small, French-speaking country with a complex colonial past. Originally controlled by Germany, it was handed over to France after Germany’s defeat in World War I.
Today, French remains the official language, but Togo is culturally diverse, split between:
- Christianity, Islam, and Voodoo—each influencing different regions of the country.
- Traditional animist tribes, such as the Tammari people of the north, who have maintained distinct cultural practices.
Crossing into Togo from Burkina Faso
We entered Togo from the north, crossing from Burkina Faso into a region that felt remote and untouched by modernity.
My main objective was to visit the Tammari people, a unique tribal group known for:
- Their fortified mud-brick houses, which resemble miniature castles, designed for protection and practicality.
- A traditional way of life, deeply tied to animist beliefs and the natural environment.
- A distinct cultural identity, setting them apart from the rest of Togo.
We spent time exploring their villages, learning about their unique customs, architecture, and daily routines.
A Final Stop in Lomé
After our time in the north, we headed south to Togo’s capital, Lomé, where we spent a single night before the end of our trip.
Compared to the tribal villages of the north, Lomé felt like a different world—a coastal city with French colonial remnants, busy markets, and a more cosmopolitan feel.
Though my time in Togo was short, it was a fascinating glimpse into a country often overlooked yet filled with rich culture, history, and tradition.
Route I took into Togo
Koutammakou, the Land of the Batammariba
Exploring Koutammakou: The Land of the Batammariba in Northern Togo
One of the greatest highlights of visiting Togo is exploring Koutammakou, the Land of the Batammariba—also known as the Tammari people.
This unique animist farming tribe remained isolated until recent decades, preserving their traditional religion, customs, and architecture in ways rarely seen in modern Africa.
The Enchanting Somba Houses: Miniature Clay Castles
The Tammari people are most famous for their fortified mud homes, known as Somba houses, which look like miniature castles.
These multi-level clay structures are among the most beautiful and fascinating traditional houses I’ve seen anywhere in Africa.
Though many Tammari today live in more modern mudbrick homes, each one still sits side by side with an ancestral Somba house, which remains essential for:
- Storing grains
- Performing animist rituals
- Honoring the spirits of their ancestors, whom they believe still reside in these structures
The high walls surrounding the houses were originally built for protection, designed to keep out rival tribes and wild predators like leopards.
Small altars placed at the corners of the houses serve as ritual sacrifice sites, reinforcing the belief that the spirits of the ancestors still live within the home.
Inside a Somba House: A Tight Squeeze
Stepping inside, I quickly realized that these houses were not built for someone of my height.
The interiors seemed custom-designed for hunchbacks or very short people, forcing me to bend and maneuver awkwardly through tight, low passageways.
But despite the cramped space, the architecture felt incredibly practical, with a clear purpose behind every design choice—a testament to how the Tammari people have adapted to their environment for generations.
Missed Opportunity: Sleeping in a Somba House
I had really hoped to arrive early enough to ask if we could stay in one of these traditional homes overnight.
But by the time we crossed into Togo, it was already too late.
- Entering Tammari lands in the dark wasn’t advisable.
- Since these villages don’t have electricity, approaching a stranger’s home at night to ask for lodging would have felt strange.
Instead, we opted to stay in the nearest town, finding a hotel for the night and heading to a local bar-restaurant to experience a bit of Togo’s nightlife.
A Spontaneous Journey into the Tammari Heartland
The next morning, we embarked on a journey deep into Tammari lands, following a series of rough, unmarked dirt roads that didn’t even appear on the map.
We had no real plan—just an adventurous spirit and a willingness to ask directions from locals walking along the roadside.
As we ventured further, we passed an incredible sight—a Tammari castle house surrounded by a crowd of about 50 people.
Some of the women wore elaborate headdresses made from antelope horns, a traditional marker of married women in the tribe.
Drums and Singing in the Distance: A Tammari Funeral
From a distance, we could hear drumming and singing—a rhythmic, powerful sound echoing across the landscape.
Instinctively, I thought:
“We need to check this out.”
We began to drive toward the event, excited to see what kind of cultural gathering was taking place.
But as we got closer, we realized what it was—a funeral.
Unsure if we would be received well as outsiders, we made the difficult decision to move on, resisting the urge to intrude on such a solemn and deeply personal moment.
Still, even from a distance, I could feel the richness of the Tammari culture, a world where tradition, architecture, and spirituality were deeply intertwined.
Somba house
A Glimpse into the Lives of the Tammari People
After navigating the rough, unmarked tracks leading into Tammari territory, we finally arrived in a small village where we were able to find and visit some of the famous Somba houses.
The villagers were more than happy to welcome us into their homes—for a small fee.
The Commercialization of Cultural Encounters
As we walked through the village, observing the daily lives of the Tammari people, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of detachment.
Every few steps, someone asked for money—whether for:
- Taking photos of their homes.
- Showing us the interior of a Somba house.
- Giving us a short tour of the village.
It wasn’t unexpected, but it cheapened the experience.
That said, I didn’t blame them for asking.
The income gap between a Westerner like myself and the villagers of northern Togo is astronomical.
Few travelers make it this far north, and the Tammari people remain largely untouched by mass tourism—so they have come to recognize that foreign visitors bring economic opportunity.
The Best Way to Connect with Tribal Cultures
From my experiences traveling to remote tribal communities around the world, I’ve learned that the best way to develop an authentic relationship is to spend time with them.
- A short village tour can only provide a superficial glimpse into their world.
- To truly understand their way of life, one must stay overnight—or even longer.
When you share meals, sleep in their homes, and spend time with their families, the barrier between outsider and local fades, and a genuine human connection emerges.
A Missed Opportunity
Unfortunately, my plan to stay overnight in a Tammari village didn’t happen.
We had been delayed in our journey, forcing us to settle for a short-day visit instead of the immersive experience I had hoped for.
While I was grateful for the chance to see their world firsthand, I left knowing that I had only scratched the surface.
The Tammari people still live largely traditional lives, and unlike many tribal groups in Africa that have been heavily influenced by modernity, they remain tied to their animist beliefs, ancestral architecture, and ancient customs.
If I ever return, I know exactly how I would do it:
I would stay with them—for at least a day, maybe longer.
Because to truly know a culture, you must live it.
Married woman with traditional antelope hat given to her by her husband
Somba house
Somba house
Somba house
Woman I spotted in the distance on her Somba house. I always prefer to photograph people when they arent watching to capture their natural pose
Inside of the Somba house
Crossing into Benin and a Final Stop in Lomé
Finding the Benin border was an unexpected challenge.
There were no clear signs, no official border post, and we had to rely on maps and word-of-mouth directions to eventually find a small village that marked the official crossing point.
A border station was non-existent—just a quiet, rural pathway leading from one country into another.
Returning to Togo: A Much-Needed Rest in Lomé
After traveling through Benin, we made our way back to Togo to catch our flight out of Lomé, the country’s capital.
Unlike my usual habit of exploring every inch of a city, this time I chose to do the opposite.
I had spent weeks immersed in tribal cultures, voodoo rituals, and long, rough travel days—I was ready for a break.
So, instead of wandering through Lomé’s voodoo markets or coastal streets, I checked into an old 70s-era luxury hotel—Hôtel Sarakawa.
A Different Kind of Experience: Luxury and Relaxation
The Hôtel Sarakawa is a relic of a different time, a place that still carried the faded glamour of the past.
For once, I had no itinerary, no adventures lined up. Instead, I:
- Relaxed at the beachside bar, sipping a cold drink as the ocean breeze rolled in.
- Enjoyed the Olympic-sized pool, letting the exhaustion of travel finally fade.
- Did absolutely nothing—and it felt amazing.
After so much time spent off the beaten path, surrounded by animist cultures, remote villages, and unfamiliar landscapes, it was strange but welcome to have a moment of stillness.
Flying Home: Lomé to Newark on Ethiopian Airlines
The next day, I boarded my flight, taking a direct Ethiopian Airlines flight from Lomé to Newark, New Jersey.
As I lifted off, I reflected on how little I had known about Togo before this trip—and how much I had come to appreciate this small, often-overlooked country.
From the Somba houses of the Tammari people to the deep spiritual traditions of voodoo, to the unexpected conversations and chance encounters, Togo had left an impression on me.
Sometimes, the places you know the least about before visiting are the ones that surprise you the most.