In April 2024, as part of a three-week family trip across Europe and Morocco, my wife, mother-in-law, infant daughter, and I spent three days exploring the Alps of Northern Austria. We traveled by rental car from Munich, Germany, with Hallstatt as our primary destination—a charming village set on an alpine lake, renowned for its breathtaking scenery. However, we opted to stay in Obertraun, a quieter and more affordable village just a few miles down the lake from Hallstatt.
For those interested in our Germany itinerary, we also documented our journey through Berlin and Bavaria in our report, In Search of the Nazi and Cold War Past, Berlin & Bavaria, Germany on Venture The Planet.
Staying in Obertraun
I’ll be honest—I wasn’t too excited about Hallstatt at first, knowing it’s one of Austria’s most touristy spots with pricey accommodations. My main reason for visiting was to have a base for exploring the nearby mountains and to enjoy the beauty of an alpine lake in the Alps. Luckily, we were there during the off-season, so tourist numbers were lower than usual. Spring had just begun, the weather was warming up, the meadows were lush and green, and the mountains were still capped with snow.
Hallstatt is definitely a charming town, perfect for a day trip, but I found the best way to enjoy the area was by staying in Obertraun, a small, quiet village just across the lake. Obertraun was still right on the lake and great to explore on foot. It’s a world apart from Hallstatt; it may not be as picturesque, but I actually preferred its peaceful vibe. Plus, there are many hiking trails from town leading up into the mountains and around the lake.
We stayed in a large, affordable chalet near the lakeshore for two nights. The chalet was cozy, spacious, and each room had a balcony. The views of the mountains and lake from the chalet were incredible. I had plenty of hiking plans but unfortunately caught a nasty cold, which slowed me down quite a bit. We also wanted to visit the massive ice cave in the mountains—one of the largest in the world—but unfortunately, it was still closed for the winter and scheduled to reopen just a few days after we left.
Despite the setbacks, the trip was still rewarding, and the peace and scenery of Obertraun made it memorable.
Indie in her bear suit and I
An Old Church Tower in Obertraun
Traditional wood building
Traditional wood building
It’s easy to feel put off by Hallstatt’s overwhelming popularity, especially with the crowds and highly commercialized tourism. As Austria’s top tourist destination, it’s particularly popular with Chinese tourists—so much so that there’s even a replica of Hallstatt in China, which is also a major attraction. But as touristy as it is, Hallstatt’s popularity is understandable. Settlements have existed here since 800 BC, dating back to the early Bronze Age, thanks to the ancient salt mine in the mountains, which is believed to be the oldest in the world.
Beyond its history, Hallstatt offers plenty of charm. The old buildings, historic churches, and picturesque lakeshore are remarkable, and the abundance of eateries along the lake makes for an enjoyable experience. It’s one of those places that, despite the crowds, has an undeniable magic rooted in both its natural beauty and its deep historical significance.
Iconic view of Halstatt that happens to be the most popular on Chinese social media platforms too because a line of Chinese tourists were waiting toget a photo of themselves in front of this view and when I took more than 10 seconds to take my photo I was asked to make way -politely at least-by the tour guide.
Krampus is a unique figure in Austrian folklore—a mischievous counterpart to Santa Claus who punishes naughty children instead of rewarding them with gifts. Every year, various villages host Krampus parades, featuring people dressed in frightening Krampus masks, creating a lively and somewhat eerie spectacle.
During my visit to Hallstatt, I saw a house displaying several of these masks, which appeared to be locally crafted in the traditional style. It was fascinating to witness how this distinctive cultural tradition is preserved and celebrated, adding a fun and spooky twist to the holiday season in Austria. The Krampus celebrations truly highlight the rich tapestry of Austrian folklore and the creative artistry of its people.
Evil Santa-Krampus Masks
Salzwelten Hallstatt Salt Mine
No visit to Hallstatt would be complete without exploring the oldest salt mine in the world. Salt has been mined here since the Bronze Age, originating from ancient deposits left behind by an ocean that once covered this region long before the Alps were formed. As the ocean dried up, it left exposed salt deposits that were pushed up into the mountaintops of the Alps when the tectonic plates of Europe and Africa collided, elevating the salt to its present location.
Getting to the salt mine involves either a hike or a tramway, and the views of the lake and surrounding mountains from the area around the mine are absolutely stunning.
Since babies are now allowed on the mine tours, my wife and I took advantage of the opportunity to leave our daughter with my mother-in-law and enjoy one of our first outings together as parents. The tour itself was touristy but fun. It included insights into the section of the mine that is still producing salt today, and the latter part of the tour showcased historical landmarks, such as a petrified ladder from the Bronze Age.
The highlight of the experience was definitely the slide and the ride in the mine cart—both of which added an element of excitement to our adventure in this fascinating historical site.
Our two nights in Austria were incredibly relaxing, and I found myself mesmerized by the stunning beauty of the Alps. However, it was difficult to be in such a picturesque location without indulging in some serious hiking. After our time in Hallstatt, we drove across the mountains to the German Alps and then onward to Munich, where we caught a direct flight home to San Diego with Lufthansa Airlines.
We managed to save thousands by purchasing round-trip tickets from Munich to San Diego instead of one-way flights, as the latter was significantly more expensive for some reason. Once we returned home, we simply canceled the return portion of our tickets.
Sadly, our amazing three-week baby bonding trip across Europe and Morocco came to an end, leaving us with wonderful memories and a longing to explore more together as a family.