April 2024: Morocco was a country I’d visited briefly in the past but had never explored in depth. I used to think it was too touristy for my taste, with so many other North African countries offering more intrepid experiences. But I wanted to give Morocco a fair chance, especially now that I was planning a 3-week trip with my family and infant daughter. Ironically, I chose Morocco this time for the very reasons I once avoided it: its popularity with tourists and well-developed infrastructure, which I figured would make it easier and safer to navigate with a baby.
I’m so glad we decided to go, as we all agreed that Morocco was our favorite part of the trip. The country’s beauty, exotic appeal, and countless sights made it unforgettable. We stayed for four days, though in hindsight, I wish we’d allocated more time. Our itinerary also included southern Spain, Sardinia, and other parts of the region, but Morocco truly left a lasting impression. This was our itinerary:
Day 1: Fly direct from Paris Orly via Transavia Airlines to Ouarzazate. Hire a car and drive to Skoura and stay in LaMa Desert Lodge in Sahara Desert oasis village.
Day 2: Drive to Telout via Bennadou casbah. Stay in a guesthouse in Telout in the Atlas Mountains.
Day 3: Drive to Marrakesh and stay in a 500-year-old family-run traditional riad in the old city.
Day 4: Depart Marrakesh to Malaga Spain via Ryan Airin afternoon.
Our route
Skoura-Sahara Desert Oasis Village
Our first stop in Morocco was Ouarzazate, and we arrived just after the end of Ramadan, on the first day of Eid al-Fitr. This holiday, known as the ‘Festival of Breaking the Fast,’ marks three days of family gatherings, celebrations, and feasting. The airport and city were quiet, with few people in the streets. At the airport, the manager of our rental car agency greeted us in his casual Islamic robes, noting he was only there because of our reservation. I received a free upgrade to a Land Cruiser—a luxurious vehicle for this part of Morocco—which felt like a lucky break given that no other rental cars or taxis were available due to the holiday.
We had an hour’s drive through the desert to Skoura. With a baby in tow, I was taking every precaution and wanted to buy water, but finding an open store was a challenge. Gas stations were only selling fuel, and after some searching, we finally came across a small shop open on a residential street. However, we didn’t have Moroccan currency since there wasn’t an ATM at the airport, and all we had were euros. Paula and her mom went into the shop to buy water, but the shopkeeper had trouble making change. The scene attracted a lot of attention, and soon a small crowd of welcoming, veiled Moroccan women gathered around out of curiosity.
With water and snacks in hand, we set off to Skoura along empty desert roads, occasionally passing the ancient ruins of a casbah.
An old casbah in Skoura
Skoura is best described as a small oasis village in the Sahara Desert, with the Atlas Mountains visible in the distance. We turned onto a narrow dirt track leading to our hotel, the L’ma Lodge, a charming Moroccan retreat known for its traditional architecture nestled within a lush, walled date plantation. The lodge was on the pricier side, but I felt we deserved a treat at this point in our travels. With nearly a full day to unwind, it was the perfect place to recharge, allowing us to relax in the gardens and lounge by the pool in a serene setting.
Paula in our beautiful room
Morocco is renowned for its hospitality, and the L’ma Lodge was no exception. From the moment we arrived, we were pampered with a warm welcome, served tea, and treated to delicious Moroccan food. We sipped tea at an outdoor table overlooking the beautifully manicured garden, and before long, the relaxation set in. Once our rooms were ready, we took a much-needed nap in the cool, air-conditioned comfort.
In the afternoon, refreshed by the cooler temperatures, I ventured out to explore some of the abandoned casbahs beyond the lodge grounds. These mudbrick ruins once served as fortifications to protect Skoura from bandits and invading armies. The village life here is rural and timeless, with date plantations stretching as far as the eye can see. Farmers in mudbrick homes worked the land, combining mechanical machinery with traditional methods, including the help of donkeys.
My favorite spot at the lodge was the rooftop terrace, which offered breathtaking views of Skoura’s lush date palm plantations and the distant Atlas Mountains. Watching the sunset from the terrace was the perfect way to unwind and soak in the peaceful beauty of the area.
Indie enjoying the view from our rooftop terrace at L’ma Lodge
View from the roof top terrace of the garden and date plantation
At night, the gardens came alive with an Aladdin-like magical atmosphere. Most of the other guests were British families with children, and the air was filled with the sounds of children playing. Cozy tents, adorned with colorful carpets and cushions, were scattered throughout the garden, illuminated by the soft glow of candles and lanterns. There was even a small hut filled with toys where Indie could play before dinner.
As the evening progressed, we gathered around a beautifully set candlelit table for a large Moroccan dinner, complete with multiple courses and locally grown red wine. Dining al fresco in this enchanting setting was a truly memorable experience.
Aladinn like tent in the garden lit up with candles and lanterns at night
Aladinn like tent in the garden lit up with candles and lanterns at night
Paula and Indie
Indie and Paula in the toy tent
Cienne and Indie
Magical Nighttime garden
The following day, we enjoyed a leisurely morning, sleeping in before having breakfast in the garden. Afterward, I took Indie into the oasis-like pool for a swim. She loved every moment, giddily fluttering her feet in the water, and I found myself caught up in her joy, enjoying the refreshing experience alongside her.
Indie and I in the pool
Family pool experience
Route Across the Atlas Mountains
From Skoura, we drove into the Atlas Mountains, the highest mountain range in North Africa, which separates the coast from the Sahara Desert and stretches almost the entire length of Morocco. Our destination was a small family-run guesthouse in Teloua, but we made a few stops along the way, including the 11th-century fortified mudbrick city of Ait Benhaddou, which might just be Morocco’s most popular tourist attraction.
Today, the ancient city is still inhabited by several families who depend heavily on tourism. Visiting Ait Benhaddou was enjoyable, but the path leading to it was heavily commercialized, lined with shops, cafes, and a multitude of tourist enterprises. While it’s a lovely place to explore for a few hours and undeniably photogenic, I find myself drawn more to lesser-known villages that offer a more authentic experience of Morocco.
Mud Brick City of Bennadou
Paula and Indie at the Mud Brick City of Bennadou
I was initially worried about the condition of the winding roads through the Atlas Mountains, but I was pleasantly surprised to find them in great shape. There were few vehicles on the road, likely due to the holiday, which made for a more relaxed driving experience. However, I did receive my first speeding ticket ever for going just 2 miles per hour over the limit at the entrance of a village. A team of Moroccan policemen in old-fashioned uniforms lay in wait with a radar gun.
I was waved down and escorted to a small chair on the side of the road, where I felt like a middle school student being scolded by the principal. After a brief reprimand for speeding, I was handed a $15 fine that I had to pay on the spot, and my passport and license were recorded.
View of a village along a river deep in a canyon gorge
Snow capped Atllas Mountains
Berber Village in the Mountains
After a few hours’ drive, we arrived in the Berber village of Telouet, where our guesthouse was perched on the edge of a river canyon in the mountains. When we arrived, I went inside to check in, but found no one there. The doors were open, and after searching all the floors, I realized I was alone. I figured the owner was at the mosque praying, so I made a few calls. A man answered apologetically and, ten minutes later, showed up at the door, half dazed from having just awakened from a nap in the vehicle parked next to ours.
He was instantly drawn to Indie, making googly faces at her and tickling her feet. We would soon discover that this was a common reaction among men in Morocco, who seemed to adore babies even more than women. The guesthouse itself was comfortable and cozy, albeit a bit dusty and not the most sanitary. Normally, this wouldn’t bother me, but with a baby, I felt a bit more concerned. However, the highlight of our stay was the large traditional Moroccan meals and the endless kettles of sweet tea that we enjoyed.
Paula, Indie and Cienne in the guesthouse
Large Moroccon dinner in the guesthouse
Old wooden doors in the flower bed outside the guesthouse in morning
Near our guesthouse was a casbah that I was eager to see, renowned for its stunning murals and beautiful interior. This was the casbah of a ruler who had betrayed one of the previous kings, resulting in his family’s ostracization from Morocco and the slow decay of the fortress. The structure had also suffered greatly from a recent powerful earthquake that devastated thousands in the Atlas Mountains. Unfortunately, the Telouet casbah was now deemed unsafe for entry and awaited restoration, a process that seemed unlikely to begin anytime soon.
Despite this, I was determined to visit, so we drove down small dirt roads in search of it. Upon arrival, we found the front of the casbah lined with shuttered tourist shops, while schoolchildren played soccer nearby. Only two shopkeepers were present, both desperate for any tourism income. Their rivalry escalated into a heated verbal altercation that threatened to become violent, prompting me to quickly put Indie back in the vehicle and say goodbye to them.
Soccer match in front of an old abandoned casbah in Telouet
Staying in a 500 Year Old Riad in Marrakesh
On the third day, after navigating the winding mountain roads and the chaotic, narrow streets of the 1,000-year-old imperial city of Marrakesh, I found myself dodging donkey carts and motorbikes amidst a completely disordered flow of vehicles. The heat was intense, reaching 110 degrees—much warmer than in the Sahara. Exhausted, I decided it would be easier to return our rental car a day early rather than deal with the challenge of parking it in the old city.
After waiting in a long outdoor queue under the scorching sun, I hired a taxi from the rental car center at the airport to take us to our riad, a traditional family-run home said to be 500 years old. Our taxi dropped us off at the entrance of a narrow alleyway, accessible only on foot or by motorbike. We hired a nearby man with a wheelbarrow to carry our luggage as we walked for 20 minutes through the winding walkways to reach the riad.
Upon arrival, we instantly fell in love with its tranquility and architectural beauty. The interior rose three floors high, featuring an open ceiling that revealed the sky above. A small swimming pool with a fountain graced the space, and we were welcomed with afternoon tea and biscuits while relaxing in this serene oasis. The air was sweet with the scent of incense, commonly found in Moroccan homes. The riad offered a calming atmosphere, enhanced by the soothing sounds of water flowing from the stone fountain into the pool and the distant calls to prayer from nearby mosques, lulling me into a much-needed nap in our blissful retreat for the next few days.
Old mosque in marrakesh as scene from the roof top terrace of our riad
Pushing Indie down the side walk to the riad
Inside the riad
Magical riad
Common area
Paula and Indie in our bedroom
Indie and I going for a swim in the pool inside the riad
At night, we enjoyed a lavish traditional dinner on the rooftop terrace of the riad, with breathtaking views of the old city of Marrakesh. A friend had arranged for us to meet a Moroccan girl who lived in Marrakesh and freelanced as a guide. She joined us for dinner, and afterward, I took care of Indie while she accompanied Paula and her mom to explore the vibrant city.
Post-Ramadan, Marrakesh was alive with energy, the night filled with music, clapping, and the rhythmic beats of drums echoing throughout the medina. It was a joy to see so many locals celebrating, rather than just tourists. However, I felt that the crowds and noise would be overwhelming for a baby, so I opted to stay back with Indie, having already visited the medina on a previous trip.
Our meal on the roof top terrace of our riad
Tea and biscuits
Reluctantly, we left our cozy riad in the afternoon and headed to the airport for our flight with Ryan Air to Málaga, Spain. Though we were sad to say goodbye to the tranquility of our riad, we were excited to continue our journey.