April 2024: As part of a 3-week baby bonding family vacation with our 9-month-old daughter, we spent 6 days in Gibraltar and Andalucía, Spain. We chose this region for its rich blend of Spanish, Moorish, and Gypsy culture. To explore more conveniently, we hired a car and drove around the area. This was our itinerary during the trip:
Day 1:
Depart Ryan Air via Marrakesh to Malaga
1.5 hours’ drive to Grenada in a rental car
Grenada cave hotel
Day 2:
Visit Alhambra
Gypsy cave flamenco show at night
2md night Granada Cave hotel
Day 3:
Drive to Ronda 1.5 hours
Visit Castillo de Turon
Stay in Ronda in Hotel Don Miguel overlooking the old bridge
Day 4:
Gibraltar 1 hour drive,
Gibraltar Nature Reserve
Gibraltar Cable Car
O’Hara’s Battery
The World War II Tunnels
Stay in hotel near Gibraltar in Spain
Day 5:
Drive to Arcos de la Frontera 1.5-hour drive
Sleep in old town
Day 6:
Drive to Seville and depart to Sardinia via Ryan Air, 1.5-hour drive
A map of our route in Andalucia
A Gypsy Cave Hotel in Grenada
We started our trip by driving from Malaga to Grenada arriving in the evening in our rental car. We had a hell of a time searching for our accommodation, a gypsy cave in Sacromonte hill that had been converted into a guesthouse. It was a challenge to find this location in the Grenada old town in the area of the Alhambra fortress. The streets were unbearably narrow, and our SUV nearly scratched the surface of the alley walls or parked vehicles in single lane roads on numerous occasions. To top it off, our GPS was easily confused in the old town streets with the various one-way streets and would often lead us to a dead end or an alley where we were too big if to fit. After hours of trying to find our guesthouse and messaging my contact, we finally found a place to unload our luggage, but we still had to walk up hill 30 minutes with all of our luggage and then I had to find a place to park the vehicle for the night on the public street. Fortunately, the guesthouse manager was able to use the small vehicle of the guesthouse’s owner, a friendly Gypsy woman who had a common love of traveling the world. We were able to haul our luggage to the cave guesthouse and then I had a chance to practice my parallel parking skills. Almost a mile away, I parked my SUV on a steep hill with nearly zero margin of error in between other vehicles and after a few attempts to I was able to squeeze the car in and I vowed to not drive again for the two nights were staying in Grenada so that I didn’t have to repeat this very stressful night of driving.
Once the stress of checking in and parking our car was behind us, we were able to soak in some of our surroundings. The Sacromonte hill was a magical place at night under a full moon. Across the canyon on the other side was the grand illuminated castle walls of the Alhambra. The Sacromonte Hill was best explored on foot since the roads were narrow and steep and we walked around looking for food, but it was too late, and all restaurants were closes. Most of the restaurants and homes were carved out of the mountain into caves. Some were guesthouses and renovated to look nice while others were shabby where normal people lived and had clothes lines with clothes hung out to dry. The only life was the rhythm of tap dancing, and guitars and gypsy flamenco singers. I came across a couple private gatherings of friends in their courtyards playing flamenco guitar and singing melancholic tunes that gave me goosebumps. I have always loved flamenco guitar and wish I could have learned how to play it.
Our cave guesthouse
We loved our guesthouse, a unique two-bedroom space tucked away inside a cave with white-painted walls. It likely was once home to a gypsy family for generations, much like many other cave guesthouses in the area. However, due to the significant influx of tourism, it has been converted into a guesthouse for visitors. This was one of the most distinctive places I have ever stayed during my travels.
Indie in our bed at Our cave guesthouse
Our cave guesthouse
Happy memories in our cave guesthouse
Mixed in with the tourist guesthouses were other cave homes where gypsy families lived, many of which had not been renovated to the same level of sophistication. While it’s common for areas inhabited by gypsies in Europe to experience higher incidents of crime, we didn’t encounter any issues during our stay. Our only interactions were a few innocuous encounters with some intoxicated gypsy men.
A cave home
Alhambra Moorish Castle
Of course, a visit to the 11th-century Moorish Alhambra palace is a must when in Granada. The Alhambra sits imposingly on a hilltop overlooking the city, and within its gates lies sheer opulence and extravagance, making it one of the best-preserved Islamic era palaces in Europe. Built by the Islamic Moors, it served as a palace for their kings during their 700-year reign in medieval Spain. After the Moors were defeated, the palace became the residence of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain. It was at the Alhambra that explorer Christopher Columbus was commissioned by Ferdinand and Isabella before setting off to the Americas.
To reach the Alhambra, we walked from our cave guesthouse. One of the highlights of the visit was the walk up the hill past the old walls, where we encountered few tourists and enjoyed the quieter parts of the castle’s ramparts, complete with a flowing creek and waterfalls.
We had purchased tickets in advance for a specific time slot due to the crowds. While we enjoyed our visit, the sheer number of tourists made it challenging to fully appreciate the magnitude of history that the Alhambra represents.
Alhambra Palace
Me carrying Indie to the Alhambra Palace
Family Portrait at the Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace
Gypsy Cave Flamenco Show
Probably even more important than visiting the Alhambra when in Granada is seeing a gypsy cave flamenco show. We attended one near our cave accommodation and felt a bit underdressed, as many Spanish visitors and performers were wearing fancy clothes. Before the show, we enjoyed red wine, sangria, and a few tapas on the patio. The performance took place in a small cave, with spectators lined up in chairs against the walls while dancers sang, tap danced, and played guitar to passionate gypsy songs that have been passed down through generations. It was an amazing experience, and Indie loved it, but I had to remove her after ten minutes because it was too loud for her little ears.
Indie and me at the cave gypsy show
Cave Flamenco show
Paula, Cienne and Indie watching the Cave Flamenco show
Exploring the Back Roads
After Ronda, I planned to take back roads to explore all sorts of interesting off-the-beaten-path places, like abandoned castles and caves. However, traveling with a baby slowed us down, and we got a late start, so we only had time to visit the ruined Castillo de Turon—a hilltop Moorish castle that was defeated by Castellan soldiers in the 1400s. This little castle turned out to be one of our favorite experiences in Spain.
It was completely off the tourist trail, and to reach it, we navigated winding dirt roads, even having to ask local farmers for directions along the way. At one point, we nearly got stuck crossing a river and were momentarily engulfed by a massive herd of goats led by a shepherd. The castle, long forgotten by time and civilization, had only a few walls remaining, standing sentinel over a hilltop that offered sweeping views of the rolling green hills and mountains. It was spring, the weather was beautiful, and flowers were in full bloom. Paula and I hiked up to the castle and found we had the entire place to ourselves. These are the types of adventures I love most when traveling.
Castillo de Turon
Castillo de Turon
The World’s Most Incredible Bridge-Ronda
We loved Ronda! Our hotel was conveniently located near charming street cafés and tapas bars. However, the real attraction was the magnificent Puente Nuevo bridge. At 390 feet tall, this stone marvel towers over a lush river canyon that divides the medieval town of Ronda. Completed in 1793, it is the most impressive bridge I’ve ever encountered, and I couldn’t get enough of its grandeur. I even booked a hotel room with a balcony overlooking the bridge and the canyon.
While the beauty of the bridge is undeniable, it also has a dark history. A section of the bridge was used as a prison during the Spanish Revolution in the 1950s, under the rule of dictator Franco. Heavy fighting took place in Ronda, resulting in thousands of deaths, and political prisoners were tortured and executed by being thrown from the top of the bridge into the canyon. Today, that section of the bridge serves as a museum, but unfortunately, it was closed during our visit.
I also hoped to climb the via ferrata, a series of cables that descend the cliffside to the bottom of the canyon beneath the bridge. However, I needed a few more climbers to join me for a rock-climbing guide to accept me.
Paula in the balcony of our hotel overlooking the puente nuevo bridge
We stayed at Hotel Don Miguel because it was the most affordable option with a patio overlooking the canyon and a fantastic view of the old bridge. Since there was only one room with a patio, I was eager to book it. However, the hotel only allowed a maximum of two adults since there was just one bed. Valuing the view over comfort, I decided to book the room anyway, even though we were three adults and one baby, planning to sleep on the floor while the others took the bed.
The challenge was sneaking past the check-in desk. Upon arrival, it quickly became clear that the hotel was strict about their policies and required passports for all guests in the room. I checked us in, and had Paula’s mom cleverly blend in with a group of Chinese tourists, allowing her to slip through unnoticed.
Sleeping on the floor wasn’t particularly comfortable, but I can manage to sleep anywhere. The experience was well worth it, as I spent my evenings sitting on the balcony sipping red wine and gazing at the magnificent bridge—an unforgettable sacrifice for such a breathtaking view.
Puente Nuevo
Puente Nuevo
The British Territory of Gibraltar
At the tip of a peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean, Gibraltar stands as a strategic territory of the United Kingdom, historically significant and often contested throughout the centuries. Visiting Gibraltar is a highlight of traveling in southern Spain, thanks to its majestic rock and rich history.
From Ronda, we drove through a spectacular mountain range to reach the coast, following a main highway until the iconic Rock of Gibraltar came into view. I booked a hotel just across the border in La Línea de la Concepción, still within Spain and conveniently within walking distance of the border. Our hotel offered an incredible view from the balcony, overlooking the Rock of Gibraltar and the airplanes taking off and landing at its airport.
The border crossing was smooth, and once we arrived, we hired a private driver to take us to the main attractions: St. Michael’s Cave, the World War II tunnels, the breathtaking views from the top of the rock, and of course, to see the wild macaque monkeys that roam freely on the mountain.
Rock of Gibraltar
Gibraltar Macaque
A group of hundreds of wild macaques inhabits Gibraltar, making them the only monkeys to live in Europe. These fascinating creatures have been in Gibraltar for hundreds of years, likely arriving from Morocco aboard an odd sailor or pirate ship. Now, they roam freely, surviving on foliage from the nature reserve on the Rock of Gibraltar and food they steal from tourists. Unfortunately, these monkeys have developed a bad reputation, often deservedly so. Before our trip, I had heard numerous stories of tourists being attacked by them, and my main concern was for Indie.
Fortunately, we didn’t encounter any serious issues. One monkey did jump on our car and attempt to break in through the window, but for the most part, they ignored us, lounging lazily in the sun and seemingly oblivious to our presence. For Indie, this was the second species of monkey she had ever seen, after the vervet monkeys in Nevis Island. She stared at them curiously but didn’t seem overly impressed.
Our favorite part of Gibraltar was undoubtedly St. Michael’s Cave, which featured a spectacular sound and light show that illuminated the incredible stalactites and stalagmites. Normally, such attractions don’t impress me, but seeing Indie mesmerized by the display was truly magical.
St Michaels Cave-Indie and Paula and Indie mesmerized by the cave
Wild macaque in a tourist shop right before being chased away by a cashier
Paula and Indie with new friend
At the top of the Rock of Gibraltar, we hiked along the ridge, taking in some truly incredible views. I decided to venture further to the very summit, navigating the jagged rocks and thorn bushes that dotted the landscape. The vista was simply breathtaking, with sweeping views of both Africa and Europe laid out before us. It was a moment that felt surreal, standing at the crossroads of two continents, surrounded by such natural beauty.
View from top of the island that I had to hike to
Decades of conflict to secure Gibraltar led the British to construct an intricate system of deep defense tunnels within the mountain. We explored several of these tunnels, where it was not only enlightening to learn about the island’s military history but also a refreshing escape from the heat outside. The cool, dark passages offered a unique glimpse into the strategic importance of this remarkable territory.
Paula and Indie in a WWII tunnel
On our way back to the border between Gibraltar and Spain, we had to walk across the runway of Gibraltar’s international airport. When there are no flights arriving or departing, the runway serves as a pedestrian walkway connecting the main city of Gibraltar to the border. The police close off this path whenever planes are preparing to land or take off. In the midst of our crossing, Indie lost one of her shoes on the runway, adding a bit of excitement to our journey back to Spain!
Pedestrian walkway across the Ginraltar airport runway
Hilltop Walled Mideivel Town of Arco de la Frontera
Our final night in Spain was spent in a charming family-run guesthouse located in the medieval village of Arcos de la Frontera, which once marked the edge of the Moorish domain in Spain. This village, over a thousand years old, sits atop a cliff that offers stunning views of the agricultural lands below. The narrow, cobblestoned streets, along with the stone houses and historic churches, create an enchanting atmosphere that clings to the cliffs. We stayed in a beautifully renovated guesthouse full of character in the old town, opting to leave our car in a parking lot below to avoid the hassle of navigating the narrow streets and searching for parking. The guesthouse owner kindly picked us up to take us to our accommodation.
View of the hilltop town
We absolutely loved Arcos de la Frontera and decided it was our favorite place to stay in southern Spain. The village exuded a sense of tranquility and felt far less touristy compared to other destinations we had visited. Despite its historical significance, Arcos maintained an authentic old-world charm that truly captured the essence of southern Spain. The peaceful atmosphere allowed us to relax and fully immerse ourselves in the rich culture and history of this remarkable village.
Paula in one of the old town plazas
On the rooftop above our guesthouse, we enjoyed relaxing and taking in the breathtaking views over the rooftops of the old town. The sight of the bell towers of the ancient churches added to the charm of the landscape, and it was wonderful to sit back and watch the sunset. The soothing sounds of church bells ringing and the flutter of pigeons flocking about the towers created a magical ambiance, making those moments truly unforgettable.
View of the hilltop town fromour rooftop terrace
Paula at our rooftop terrace
The churches in Arcos de la Frontera were beautiful yet macabre, steeped in a rich and haunting history. Inside, we found many striking scenes depicting fire and brimstone, as well as mummified corpses of saints displayed from medieval times. These remains had been brought from the catacombs of Rome, adding a layer of intrigue and reverence to the otherwise serene atmosphere of the town.
One of the old churches
One of the old churches
Mideivel era Mummified saint on display in the church
A skull of a saint next to a porcelin cherub
Old wooden scenes of hell and brimstone
Old wooden scenes of hell and brimstone
One of the old churches
Paula and Indie in the luxurious church interior
A medieval tapestry in one of the churches
Sadly, we only had one night in Arcos de la Frontera, and the next morning, we had to depart early for a 1.5-hour drive to Seville. Our flight to Sardinia via Ryanair awaited us, marking the next chapter of our travels.