April 2024 – Alpine Escape in Northern Austria
A Quiet Family Retreat in the Heart of the Alps
As part of a three-week family adventure through Europe and Morocco, my wife, mother-in-law, infant daughter, and I spent three peaceful days exploring the Alps of Northern Austria. We traveled by rental car from Munich, Germany, with our sights set on the picture-perfect village of Hallstatt.
Hallstatt and the Charm of Obertraun
Hallstatt, famous for its stunning alpine lake setting and storybook village charm, was our primary destination. But instead of staying amid the crowds, we based ourselves in Obertraun—a quieter and more affordable lakeside village just a few miles down the road. It offered all the beauty of the region without the bustle, and served as an ideal launching point for exploring the surrounding mountains and scenery.
Related Journey: Germany’s Shadows of the Past
For those interested in the earlier portion of our trip, we also documented our time in Berlin and Bavaria in a separate travel report titled:
In Search of the Nazi and Cold War Past, Berlin & Bavaria, Germany | Venture The Planet.
Staying in Obertraun
A Base in the Alps
Hallstatt’s Charm and Obertraun’s Calm
I’ll be honest—Hallstatt wasn’t high on my bucket list. Known as one of Austria’s most touristy destinations, with crowds and inflated prices, it felt like a place to pass through, not linger in. But my main motivation for visiting wasn’t Hallstatt itself—it was to have a base for exploring the nearby Alps and to experience the tranquility of an alpine lake setting.
Fortunately, we arrived just as spring was beginning. It was still the off-season, so the crowds were manageable. The meadows were green, the air was warming, and the mountains above us were still capped in snow—a perfect balance of seasons.
Obertraun – The Better Side of the Lake
While Hallstatt makes for a charming day trip, I found the best way to enjoy the area was by staying in nearby Obertraun. Just across the lake, Obertraun is a small, peaceful village without the tourist frenzy. It may not be as photogenic as Hallstatt, but I actually preferred its quiet vibe. The town sits right on the lake and is great to explore on foot, with hiking trails leading into the surrounding mountains and along the shoreline.
A Chalet with a View
We spent two nights in a spacious, affordable chalet near the lakeshore. Each room had a private balcony, and the views of the snowcapped mountains reflected in the lake were breathtaking. The chalet was cozy and perfect for our family, but unfortunately, I came down with a nasty cold, which slowed me down and cut back my hiking plans.
We had also hoped to visit the region’s famous Dachstein Ice Cave—one of the largest ice caves in the world—but it was still closed for the winter, reopening just a few days after our departure.
Peace Over Plans
Even with a cold and a few missed adventures, the trip to Obertraun was peaceful, scenic, and memorable. It reminded me that sometimes, the best parts of travel aren’t in the checklist of attractions—but in the quiet moments, the views from a balcony, and the unexpected calm of a little lakeside village in the Alps.
Indie in her bear suit and I
An Old Church Tower in Obertraun
Traditional wood building
Traditional wood building
Hallstatt
Hallstatt – Tourist Magnet with Timeless Roots
Crowds, Clones, and Ancient Salt
It’s easy to feel put off by Hallstatt’s popularity. As Austria’s top tourist destination, it draws huge crowds year-round and suffers from highly commercialized tourism. It’s especially popular with Chinese visitors—to the point that there’s even a full-scale replica of Hallstatt in China, which has itself become a tourist attraction.
But as touristy as it is, Hallstatt’s fame is understandable.
Where Beauty Meets Deep History
The village’s history stretches back to 800 BC, with settlements founded during the early Bronze Age. This ancient legacy is tied to the salt mine carved into the surrounding mountains, which is believed to be the oldest salt mine in the world. The town’s name even inspired the term “Hallstatt culture”, referring to an entire era of early European civilization.
Despite the crowds, Hallstatt holds a unique and undeniable charm. Its historic churches, old Alpine buildings, and dramatic lakeside setting all combine to make it something special. Wandering the narrow lanes or enjoying a meal by the lake, you can still feel the magic of the place, rooted in natural beauty and thousands of years of human history.
Iconic view of Halstatt that happens to be the most popular on Chinese social media platforms too because a line of Chinese tourists were waiting toget a photo of themselves in front of this view and when I took more than 10 seconds to take my photo I was asked to make way -politely at least-by the tour guide.
Krampus – Austria’s Dark Side of Christmas
Folklore, Fear, and Festive Tradition
Krampus is one of the most unique and eerie figures in Austrian folklore—a horned, beast-like creature who serves as the mischievous counterpart to Saint Nicholas. Instead of rewarding well-behaved children with gifts, Krampus is said to punish the naughty ones, sometimes with switches, chains, or even by stuffing them in a sack and carrying them away.
Every year, villages across Austria host Krampus parades, where locals don terrifying handmade masks and costumes. The result is a spectacle that’s both festive and unsettling—equal parts carnival and cultural ritual.
A Glimpse of Tradition in Hallstatt
During my visit to Hallstatt, I came across a house displaying several Krampus masks, intricately crafted in the traditional style. Seeing these masks up close gave me a deeper appreciation for the local artistry and folklore that continue to thrive in Austria’s Alpine regions.
The Krampus celebrations are more than just a spooky tradition—they’re a reminder of Austria’s deep cultural roots, blending pagan mythology, Catholic tradition, and handcrafted creativity into one unforgettable holiday event.
Evil Santa-Krampus Masks
Salzwelten Hallstatt Salt Mine
Hallstatt Salt Mine – Beneath the Alps, Into the Past
The Oldest Salt Mine in the World
No visit to Hallstatt would be complete without exploring its most famous treasure hidden deep beneath the mountains—the oldest salt mine in the world. Salt has been mined here since the Bronze Age, sourced from deposits left behind by a prehistoric ocean that once covered the region. As that ancient sea evaporated, thick layers of salt were left behind. Later, when the tectonic plates of Africa and Europe collided, the Alps rose, pushing those salt beds high into the mountains—where they’ve been mined ever since.
Stunning Views and a Welcome Break for New Parents
To reach the mine, you can either hike up or take a tramway, and the views from the top are spectacular—panoramic vistas of Hallstatt, the alpine lake, and the jagged peaks all around.
Since babies aren’t allowed on the mine tours, my wife and I took the opportunity to leave our daughter with my mother-in-law and enjoy one of our first real outings together as new parents. It felt like a mini adventure in itself.
Inside the Mountain: History, Salt, and Slides
The tour of the salt mine was undeniably touristy—but also fun and informative. We learned about the still-active mining operations, and toward the end, we got to see some fascinating archaeological finds, including a petrified ladder from the Bronze Age—a surreal reminder of just how long people have worked in these tunnels.
The best part? The slide and mine cart ride. Sliding down a polished wooden chute like miners once did, and riding the little rail car back out of the tunnels with Paula was a lot of fun.
Leaving the Alps Behind
From Austria to Germany, and Back to San Diego
Our two nights in Austria were incredibly relaxing, and I found myself mesmerized by the beauty of the Alps at every turn. It was the kind of scenery that makes you itch to lace up your hiking boots and get lost in the mountains—but with a baby in tow and a limited window, we soaked in what we could and kept things light.
After Hallstatt, we drove across the mountains into the German Alps, eventually making our way back to Munich, where we boarded our direct Lufthansa flight home to San Diego.
A Travel Hack Worth Sharing
One small win: we saved thousands of dollars by booking round-trip tickets from Munich instead of a more expensive one-way flight home. For some reason, one-way fares were significantly higher, so we booked round-trip and simply canceled the return leg once we were back in the U.S.—a useful trick for long-haul international flights.
A Journey to Remember
Bonding, Discovery, and New Beginnings
And just like that, our three-week baby bonding trip across Europe and Morocco came to an end. It was a journey filled with new experiences, peaceful moments, unexpected challenges, and deep connection—not just with the places we visited, but with each other.
We returned home with wonderful memories, and a longing to explore even more—together, as a family.