February 2024:On what was my second visit to Trinidad, what was meant to be a full day and night was reduced to just one night due to a flight delay from Saint Lucia. This unfortunately ruined my plans to visit an abandoned Cold War-era military radar station hidden in the jungle. Instead, my nephew and friend Jimmie hired an airport taxi to take us around the city. We explored Trinidad’s vibrant street food scene and visited one of the many pan yards where musicians practice for the annual steel drum competitions. In this case, the musicians were rehearsing for the upcoming Carnival, just a few days away.
About Trinidad
Trinidad and Tobago is one of the wealthiest countries in the Caribbean, largely due to its thriving oil and gas industry. However, this prosperity also makes it one of the more expensive destinations in the region. As a former British colony, Trinidad retains its English-speaking status, which makes it unique among many other Caribbean islands. The population is largely descended from African slaves brought to work on the island’s plantation farms during British rule.
Despite its wealth, Trinidad faces significant social challenges. There is considerable poverty, particularly in Port of Spain, which has one of the highest crime rates in the Caribbean. Our taxi driver pointed out that certain neighborhoods in the city are considered “no-go” zones for tourists due to safety concerns.
Trinidad and Tobago
Street Food Scene
Trinidad and Tobago, despite its wealth and vibrant culture, is also home to a thriving American fast-food scene, with chains like McDonald’s and KFC making their presence felt on the island. This proliferation of American businesses sometimes gave me the feeling of being in Florida rather than in the Caribbean. However, this side of the island’s food culture was balanced by its incredible street food scene, which was rich and diverse, influenced by a mix of cuisines from around the world.
Due to the island’s history of immigration, particularly from South Asia, East Asia, and the Middle East, Trinidad has an eclectic blend of food cultures. Many of these immigrant communities have fused their traditional dishes with Caribbean and African influences, creating unique flavors and combinations that are distinct to Trinidad.
My nephew, Jimmie, and I asked our taxi driver to take us to some of the best street food spots, where we sampled an array of dishes that were both unexpected and delightful. From Indian-influenced rotis and curries to Chinese stir-fries, we enjoyed the wide variety of offerings that reflect the melting pot of cultures on the island. Of course, no visit to Trinidad would be complete without a taste of the local rum, which we eagerly sampled as we wandered from one food stand to another. The combination of the rich street food culture and the lively atmosphere made for an unforgettable experience.
Dylan trying some street food
South Asian street food
Steel Drum Music
Steel drum music truly defines the soul of the Caribbean, and Trinidad, in particular, is renowned for its mastery and innovation of this distinctive instrument. The sound of the steel drum is not only relaxing but also carries a rich history, originating from the island and becoming an internationally recognized symbol of Caribbean culture. Before our trip, I had read about the pan yards – the schools and community centers where local musicians hone their skills and perfect their craft. These pan yards are often situated in poorer neighborhoods, creating a sense of unity and pride as locals gather to support their musicians.
Eager to experience this unique aspect of Trinidad’s music scene, I asked our taxi driver to take us to a pan yard. We arrived at one where a live practice session was taking place in preparation for the upcoming Carnival. The pan yard had a humble but vibrant atmosphere, with a small group of local residents sitting in the bleachers, watching the musicians practice. The energy was electric, as the musicians played with incredible skill, their hands moving with precision as they hit the steel drums, filling the air with the sounds of Trinidad’s musical heartbeat.
It was a community event, with people chatting, eating, and drinking, all while enjoying the live music. It was clear that these pan yards were not just places for learning and performance; they were a gathering spot, a place for people to come together, enjoy one another’s company, and celebrate their shared culture. It was a rare, authentic experience that truly captured the essence of Trinidad’s soul, and I was fortunate to have witnessed it firsthand.
Pan yard practice
Pan yard full of local spectators
Steel drum band practice for carnival
We stayed the night in a local apartment rental, and the next morning we departed for my final country, 197/197, Saint Kitts and Nevis.