September 2019: Making the Most of France—One Layover at a Time
I’ll admit it—France is a country I’ve yet to fully give the attention it deserves. Despite its rich history, incredible food, and undeniable cultural allure, I’ve never dedicated an entire trip solely to exploring it. That said, I’ve done my best to make every layover count.
My first visit to Paris was in 2010, during an 8-hour layover. With barely enough time to spare, my friends and I raced into the city, made a beeline for the Eiffel Tower, climbed it, soaked in the sweeping views of Paris, and explored the nearby area—all before sprinting back to catch our next flight. It was rushed, chaotic, and exhilarating—but it gave me just enough of a taste to know I’d be back.
Someday, I’ll return with more than a layover and finally give France the deep dive it deserves.
Jason and I on top of the Eiffel Tower
A Welcome Change: From the Congo Rainforest to the Comforts of France
After a long and grueling backpacking expedition through the dense rainforests of eastern Cameroon, the Central African Republic, and the Republic of Congo, my friends Scott, Jason, and I were more than ready for a change of pace—and climate. Landing in France felt like stepping into an entirely different world.
Gone were the sweltering jungles, mud-caked boots, and bone-rattling bush taxis. Instead, we found ourselves breathing in crisp, cool air, surrounded by the comforts of modern Europe. It was a welcome contrast, and we embraced it fully—ready to trade the raw wildness of Central Africa for a few well-earned days of wine, fresh bread, and historic charm.
Scott and I at the Eiffel Tower
A Stormy Arrival at a Haunted Château: My French Layover Adventure
Admittedly, I’ve yet to give France the full attention it deserves. Though I haven’t dedicated an entire trip to the country, I’ve made the most of several long layovers—squeezing in glimpses of charm and history whenever possible. My most recent visit was no different.
Landing in Paris on a rainy autumn evening, I picked up a manual-shift Renault at the airport and immediately set off into the countryside. My destination: Château de la Plumasserie—a 19th-century manor built in 1846 atop the ruins of a medieval fortress, tucked away about 50 miles from the city.
As the rain intensified and night fell, the GPS seemed intent on leading me astray. The further I drove, the more deserted and surreal the roads became. Fields blurred into shadow, and mist clung to the trees lining narrow lanes. At last, after a phone call with the kind—but slightly cryptic—caretakers, I followed their directions and pulled into the estate.
I arrived soaked and road-weary, greeted only by silence and the looming silhouette of the château. I was the only guest that night. The old manor sat at the edge of a dark forest, surrounded by windswept fields—majestic, yet undeniably eerie. It felt like I had stumbled into the pages of a Gothic novel.
And honestly, I loved every minute of it.
Farmland outside the cheateau the next morning
Morning at the Château
I woke before sunrise, eager to explore the quiet grounds of the old chateau. The estate was even more magical in the soft morning light—stone statues, mossy fountains, manicured gardens, and farm animals roaming freely. A rooster crowed in the distance, and a curious cat followed me through the misty paths. The peaceful charm of the countryside made the eerie night before feel like a distant memory. It was a perfect, unexpected moment of calm after weeks of intense travel.
Chateau de la Plumasserie
Chateau de la Plumasserie
Chateau de la Plumasserie Statues
Chateau de la Plumasserie Statues
Morning Solitude at a French Château:
Wandering the Grounds AloneI was the only guest at the château, and in the quiet of the morning, I wandered the estate alone, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Afterward, I enjoyed a simple yet perfect breakfast of cheese, croissants, and coffee. The friendly family overseeing the estate welcomed me warmly and helped unlock gates to different corners of the grounds, allowing me to explore hidden gardens and tucked-away paths. It felt like I had the entire place—and its history—all to myself.
Chateau de la Plumasserie Donkey
Chateau de la Plumasserie horse that kept licking my head
Searching for Abandoned Châteaux – Hopping Through the French Countryside
With about eight hours to spare before my flight, I decided to make the most of the morning by exploring a few nearby castle and château ruins I had mapped out the night before. Driving through misty farmland and winding country roads, I made my way toward the village of Fontenay-Trésigny—a charming little town with a cobblestone old quarter and a quiet, timeless character.
Just outside the village center, I stumbled upon a partially restored château. Its weathered stone walls and crumbling towers seemed to whisper stories from another era, begging to be explored. But a nearby construction crew made it clear that sneaking onto the property wouldn’t be happening that day.
Before the trip, I’d read that many old abandoned châteaux still dot the French countryside—centuries-old relics slowly being reclaimed by time. But these hidden gems are becoming harder to find. Increasingly, they’re being bought up by developers or independent owners, sometimes even through crowdfunding platforms, and turned into luxury rentals or boutique accommodations.
I reluctantly abandoned my plan to slip inside and instead admired the château from a distance—just another reminder that even a short layover in France can feel like stepping into a storybook. With every village and ruin holding its own chapter of history, it’s a country that never stops revealing its magic.
Abandoned 200 year old chateau under renovation
Abandoned 200 year old chateau under renovation
A Fairytale Finale
The highlight of the morning was stumbling upon a ruined castle tucked a little further outside of town—an ivy-draped relic that looked like it had been plucked straight from the pages of a fairytale. Crumbling towers stood against the gray sky, and the surrounding countryside added to the quiet, dreamlike atmosphere.
It was a perfect reminder of what makes France so special: every village, every bend in the road, holds centuries of stories waiting to be uncovered. With so much history woven into the landscape, it’s impossible to see it all in one visit. But that just gives me another reason to come back—and next time, I plan to stay much longer.
Fontenay-Tresigny Ruined Castle
Fontenay-Tresigny Ruined Castle