Ending the Journey in Turkey
As part of an almost three-week trip across Eastern Europe, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia with my family, we decided to end our journey by visiting Cappadocia for a few days before heading home.
Our plan was to spend three nights in Turkey — two nights in Istanbul and one night in Göreme in Cappadocia, staying in one of the famous cave hotels carved into the soft volcanic rock.
What We Planned
We had planned a fun few days exploring Cappadocia and Istanbul — visiting the underground cave cities, doing some hikes through the dramatic valleys, eating at great restaurants, and seeing traditional whirling dervish dancing.
In Istanbul, I was especially excited to show my family the beauty of the Sultanahmet district — including the stunning Blue Mosque and the incredible Hagia Sophia, two of the most iconic landmarks in the city.
When Plans Change
Unfortunately, things didn’t go as planned.
While we were in Göreme, Indie became very sick. She came down with Respiratory Syncytial Virus, COVID-19, and an ear infection all at the same time.
We ended up having to take her to a hospital, which meant much of our time in Turkey was spent focused on making sure she was okay rather than exploring.
It turned what we had hoped would be a relaxing final stop into a stressful one — and unfortunately made our stay in Turkey on this trip far less enjoyable than we had imagined.
Cappadocia
Cappadocia: Our Main Goal in Turkey
Our main goal in Turkey was to visit Cappadocia, a remarkable region filled with fairy chimney rock formations, limestone mountains, and tall stone spires dotted with cave homes and tunnels that have been used for thousands of years.
A Landscape Shaped by History
Across the valleys and hillsides, entire communities were carved directly into the soft rock. Many of these cave homes and underground tunnel systems were used by some of the earliest Christians more than 1,500 years ago, who lived in hiding from their enemies.
These early communities built massive underground cities and carved homes into the strangely shaped chimney-like rock towers that dot the mountainsides. Walking through the region feels like stepping into another world — one where history, geology, and human survival are deeply intertwined.
Sleeping in a Cave
We had planned to stay in a cave hotel in Göreme, where many of the hotels are carved directly into the ancient rock formations. Our particular hotel had once been part of a cave Christian temple, adding another layer of history to the experience.
That evening we were also hoping to attend a traditional Whirling Dervish Ceremony, one of the most iconic cultural performances in Turkey.
We were incredibly excited about the plan.
But fate had other plans for us.
Beautiful mountains in Gerome
Cave Homes Carved from Mountain
Fairy Chimney Homes
Fairy Chimeny Homes
Arrival in Cappadocia
We flew into Kayseri, a city that sits at the base of Mount Erciyes, a massive 13,000-foot volcano whose upper slopes are often covered in snow and glaciers.
From the airport we picked up a rental car and drove about an hour across the Anatolian countryside to Göreme, the small town at the heart of Cappadocia.
Our Cave Hotel
We checked into our cave hotel, one of the many accommodations carved directly into the soft volcanic rock that defines the region. The rooms were built into the hillside, giving the feeling of stepping into one of the ancient dwellings that people have used here for centuries.
A Sudden Fever
Not long after arriving, Indie started to spike a fever. Instead of heading out to explore, we decided it was best to lay low for the evening.
I set off into town to find some Tylenol for her while the rest of the family stayed back at the hotel.
Our family run cave hotel
Our cave hotel
The Whirling Dervish Ceremony
Paula stayed in the room with Indie while Jimmie, Paula’s mom, and I went out to attend a Whirling Dervish Ceremony in a nearby cave hall in Göreme.
A Mesmerizing Ritual
Inside the stone chamber, the atmosphere felt ancient and quiet. The ceremony began with musicians playing traditional instruments — drums and chanting voices echoing softly off the cave walls.
Then the dervishes began to spin.
For nearly an hour we watched as they worshipped through the hypnotic ritual of whirling, their white robes fanning outward as they rotated in slow, controlled circles. The rhythm of the music, the chanting, and the steady motion of the dancers created something almost trance-like.
For that hour I felt completely transported to another world, overwhelmed with awe at the beauty and depth of the ritual.
When the Trip Turned
Unfortunately, after that moment, our visit to Cappadocia would only begin to go downhill.
Devish ceremony
A Long Night
After dinner, Indie’s fever spiked dangerously high. Her breathing became deeper and more labored, and her cough worsened. She stopped drinking and eating entirely. We gave her Tylenol every four hours, but while her fever would dip slightly, it never truly broke.
It was a long and restless night. None of us slept.
By early morning we knew we couldn’t wait any longer. Her fever had climbed to 104°F, and her breathing had become frightening.
The Race to the Hospital
We decided to take her to a private hospital about twelve miles away from Göreme. We hired a taxi, and the driver — sensing our urgency — drove incredibly fast across the quiet morning roads.
When we arrived, the hospital was almost empty.
The doctor only spoke Turkish, so I used ChatGPT on my phone to translate our conversation. Through translation, the doctor explained that Indie needed to be hydrated, given antibiotics, and treated to bring down her temperature.
The IV
They decided she needed an IV.
It wasn’t easy to insert. Indie screamed as the nurses tried to place it, and the whole experience felt like torture. To try and calm her, I played the Fairytale from the Shrek soundtrack — the same song I used to play for her when she was first born.
Eventually the IV was successfully placed, and slowly her fever began to break.
Recovery — and a Difficult Journey Home
The doctors also gave her an inhaler to help open her airways. It helped her breathing, but it made her very emotional and unsettled for the next few days.
Because of that, our journey home became extremely difficult. Our return flights were rough, and when Indie’s fever returned during the trip, we had to extend our journey and spend an extra night at an airport hotel in Berlin before continuing home.
It gave her a little more time to recover before the final flight.
Eventually, after everything, we made it back to San Diego — exhausted but relieved to finally be home.
Indie in the hospital with IV
Back Home
Once we finally made it home to San Diego, Indie continued recovering. After a few days of rest and another round of antibiotics, she made a full recovery.
The stress of the hospital, the difficult flights, and the long journey home slowly faded behind us.
Looking Ahead
As always seems to happen after a big trip, once things settled down we found ourselves doing what travelers tend to do best.
We started planning the next adventure.