Return Trip to Trinidad

February 2024: On what was my second visit to Trinidad, my plans were unexpectedly disrupted by a flight delay out of Saint Lucia. What was meant to be a full day and night on the island was reduced to a single night, forcing me to cancel an adventure I had been excited about: camping overnight in an abandoned Cold War–era military radar station hidden deep in the jungle.

Making the Most of Limited Time
Exploring the City by Taxi

Determined not to waste the visit, my nephew and friend Jimmie and I hired an airport taxi to show us around Trinidad. We wandered through the city’s lively street food scene, sampling whatever caught our eye—flavors rich, spicy, and unmistakably Trinidadian.

Pan Yard Rhythms
A Glimpse of Carnival Preparation

One of the highlights of our short stay was visiting a pan yard, one of the many open-air rehearsal spaces where steel drum musicians practice. With Carnival only days away, the performers were deep into preparations, filling the warm night air with the rhythmic, hypnotic pulse of steelpan music. Standing among the musicians, surrounded by the layered metallic tones of dozens of drums, felt like stepping right into the cultural heartbeat of Trinidad.

Trinidad and Tobago Background
A Wealthy but Complex Nation

Trinidad and Tobago is one of the wealthiest nations in the Caribbean, largely due to its powerful oil and gas industry. This economic strength also makes it one of the more expensive islands to visit, especially when compared to its neighbors.

Colonial Legacy
An English-Speaking Island

As a former British colony, Trinidad retained English as its official language, distinguishing it from many other Caribbean destinations where French, Spanish, or Creole dominate. Culturally, the island reflects a layered history. Much of the population is descended from African slaves who were brought by the British to work on plantation farms—a history that still shapes the island’s demographics and identity today.

Social Realities
Wealth, Poverty, and Crime

Despite its natural resources and overall prosperity, Trinidad grapples with deep social challenges. Poverty remains widespread, especially in and around Port of Spain. The city has one of the highest crime rates in the Caribbean, and safety concerns are very real. During our taxi ride, the driver pointed out several neighborhoods considered “no-go” zones for tourists, a stark and sobering reminder of the contrast between the island’s wealth and its day-to-day realities for many residents.

Trinidad and Tobago

Street Food Exploration

Despite its wealth and deep cultural roots, Trinidad and Tobago is also home to a thriving American fast-food scene. Chains like McDonald’s and KFC are scattered across the island, so much so that at times I felt more like I was in Florida than the Caribbean. Yet this commercial presence is balanced by something far more authentic and compelling: Trinidad’s extraordinary street food culture.

A Culinary Melting Pot
Flavors From Around the World

Trinidad’s cuisine is shaped by centuries of immigration—from South Asia, East Asia, the Middle East, and beyond. These communities brought their own culinary traditions, which gradually blended with Caribbean and African influences to create an entirely unique food landscape. The result is a fusion cuisine that feels both global and distinctly Trinidadian.

Sampling the Island’s Best
Taxi-Guided Food Exploration

Eager to explore this side of the island, my nephew Jimmie and I asked our taxi driver to take us to his favorite street food spots. He happily obliged, shuttling us between stands and stalls where we sampled everything from Indian-inspired rotis and curries to savory Chinese stir-fries. Each dish carried its own story, its own heritage, and its own burst of unexpected flavor.

Rum and Rhythm
A Night to Remember

And, of course, no trip to Trinidad would be complete without sampling the local rum. We enjoyed more than a few tastes as we wandered through the lively night scene, moving from one vendor to the next. The combination of rich street food, warm night air, and an atmosphere buzzing with life made our short stay in Trinidad unforgettable.

Dylan trying some street food

South Asian street food 

The Heartbeat of Trinidad
Steel Pan Culture

Steel drum music is the heartbeat of the Caribbean, and nowhere is its mastery more revered than in Trinidad. The sound of the steel pan is soothing yet rhythmic, carrying with it a rich cultural legacy. Born on the island, it has grown into an internationally recognized symbol of Caribbean identity.

Pan Yards
Community, Craft, and Tradition

Before visiting Trinidad, I had read about pan yards—community spaces where musicians gather to practice and perfect their craft. Often located in poorer neighborhoods, these yards are much more than rehearsal spaces. They are hubs of pride, unity, and cultural expression, where entire communities come together to support their bands.

Experiencing a Pan Yard
A Night of Rhythm and Community

Wanting to experience this firsthand, I asked our taxi driver to take us to a pan yard. We arrived just as a live practice session was underway for the upcoming Carnival. The setting was simple: a cluster of musicians surrounded by a small group of locals sitting on bleachers, watching with quiet intensity.

The energy, however, was anything but simple. The musicians played with stunning precision, their hands moving in rapid, practiced bursts as they struck the steel pans. The air vibrated with the hypnotic, layered rhythms that define Trinidad’s musical soul.

More Than Music
A Cultural Gathering Place

As we listened, it became clear that this was far more than a rehearsal. It was a community gathering. People chatted, shared food and drinks, and laughed together while the music carried through the warm night air. The pan yard felt alive—a place where tradition, celebration, and neighborhood spirit intertwined.

It was one of the most authentic cultural experiences I’ve had in the Caribbean, and I felt incredibly lucky to witness it firsthand.

Pan yard practice 

Pan yard full of local spectators

Steel drum band practice for carnival 

Final Hours in Trinidad
A Quiet Night Before a Big Day

We spent the night in a simple local apartment rental, savoring the last moments of our short but memorable time in Trinidad. After the whirlwind of street food, steelpan music, and cultural exploration, the quiet evening felt like a welcome pause.

A Milestone Departure
The Final Country: Saint Kitts and Nevis

The next morning, we packed up and headed to the airport for a flight unlike any other—our journey to Saint Kitts and Nevis. This wasn’t just another destination; it marked the final stop in a travel quest that had taken me across all 197 sovereign nations. A milestone years in the making, about to be completed with one last island-Visiting My Last Country of the World 197/197 & My 6-Month-Old Daughter’s First Country-Saint Kitts & Nevis | Venture The Planet.