Crossing into Nagorno-Karabakh: A Journey into a War-Torn Republic
March 2018 – While traveling through Armenia, my friends Jimmie, Frank, and I decided to venture into the disputed and conflict-ridden breakaway republic of Nagorno-Karabakh (NKR). At the time, the only way to enter was via Armenia, as the border with Azerbaijan was closed due to the ongoing war over the region.
Our main goal in Nagorno-Karabakh was simple but incredibly risky—to sneak into the ghost town of Aghdam, a ruined city at the heart of the war zone. The challenge? Avoiding landmines, soldiers, and not earning a Darwin Award in the process.
About Aghdam and Nagorno Karabakh
Aghdam: The Forbidden Ghost Town of Nagorno-Karabakh
At the time of my visit, Aghdam straddled the volatile frontlines between Azerbaijan and Nagorno-Karabakh (NKR). Once a thriving town with a population of 20,000 ethnic Azeris, it had become a post-apocalyptic wasteland, resembling something out of Hiroshima or Chernobyl.
A City Erased by War
Aghdam had been obliterated during decades of fighting between Armenian, NKR, and Azerbaijani forces. The entire population had been driven out, fleeing into Azerbaijan, and what remained was a vast, desolate ruin, littered with landmines, barbed wire, and booby traps.
The Risk of Entering Aghdam
The ruins of Aghdam weren’t just dangerous—they were forbidden. The town lay in the crosshairs of ongoing conflict, patrolled by Armenian soldiers on one side and watched by Azerbaijani snipers on the other. If caught:
- Best-case scenario: Detained by Armenian military.
- Worst-case scenario: Trigger a landmine, get caught in a firefight, or be picked off by a sniper.
Despite the dangers, Aghdam’s close proximity to the peaceful NKR capital, Stepanakert (just 30 miles away), made it tempting for adventurous or reckless travelers—and I suppose I fell somewhere between the two.
Defying the Ban on Tourists
Tourists were explicitly banned from entering Aghdam, and even the NKR visa stamp included a warning prohibiting entry. Finding a driver in Armenia or NKR willing to take us there was impossible—but we had already made up our minds.
Nagorno-Karabakh: A Disputed Land
Aghdam’s destruction was a direct consequence of the Nagorno-Karabakh War, a conflict that erupted after the Soviet Union collapsed. Before then, Armenians and Azeris had lived together peacefully in NKR, but with Moscow’s grip loosening, both sides vied for control of the territory.
At the time of my visit:
- Armenia controlled most of NKR, and the majority of ethnic Azeris had fled to Azerbaijan.
- Despite Armenian control, most of the world—including Google Maps—recognized NKR as part of Azerbaijan.
- NKR functioned as its own self-declared republic, with a government, military, and immigration checkpoints requiring a special entry stamp for visitors.
For now, Aghdam remained a no-man’s land, frozen in time, a monument to a brutal war that had never truly ended. And yet, we were determined to see it for ourselves.
Location of Aghdam in NKR that shows up on Google Earth as being within the boundaries of Azerbaijan
Crossing into Nagorno Karabakh and Spending the Night in the Embattled Town of Shushi
Entering Nagorno-Karabakh: A Journey Into a Disputed Land
We crossed into Nagorno-Karabakh (NKR) from Goris, Armenia, accompanied by our driver, Gagik, a former Armenian soldier who had fought in NKR against Azerbaijani forces. His connection to the conflict was deeply personal, and he made it clear—if war broke out again, he would return to fight.
At the NKR border, we checked in at a small immigration booth and were given instructions to visit the immigration office in Stepanakert to obtain our official visas.
The Road to Shushi: A Defensive Landscape
From the border, only one paved road winds through the country, a breathtaking yet desolate route that twists through barren, treeless mountains for about an hour until reaching the mountaintop town of Shushi.
One of the most ominous sights along the way were massive steel cables stretched invisibly across deep canyons and valleys. Gagik explained they were designed to take down any invading Azerbaijani helicopters—a stark reminder that war was never far from NKR’s consciousness.
Shushi: A City Marked by Conflict
Once a major cultural and economic center, Shushi bore the scars of war, with bombed-out buildings, skeletal remains of concrete structures, and abandoned mosques serving as reminders of the town’s violent past.
Ghazanchetsots Cathedral: A Symbol of Survival
Our first stop was Ghazanchetsots Cathedral, Nagorno-Karabakh’s most revered church, which had been destroyed during the war and later rebuilt. Despite the surrounding destruction, an Easter Sunday service was underway, and we stepped inside to witness the candlelit prayers and haunting chants echoing through the church.
The Ghosts of Shushi’s Past
Walking through the mist-shrouded town, we stopped at an abandoned Azerbaijani mosque, a solemn reminder of the thousands of Azeris who had once lived here but were forced to flee. While the mosque itself was gutted, the Azeri gravestones remained, a silent testament to those who had been displaced.
Shushi felt like a city suspended between past and present, its ruins whispering stories of war, loss, and an uncertain future. And we were only just beginning to explore the depths of this disputed land.
Frank overlooking the mountains
NKR kids playing on a tank that serves as a war memorial
Old Shushi Medieval Walls
Ghazanchetsots Cathedral in Shushi rebuilt after being destroyed in the war
Ghazanchetsots Cathedral-Easter Sunday Service in Shushi. NKR soldiers attending service
NKR kids lighting candles Easter Service-Ghazanchetsots Cathedral
World War II Memorial
Abandoned bombed out buildings in Shushi
Abandoned bombed out buildings in Shushi
Abandoned Azeri Mosque
Gutted Interior of Mosque
Old Tombstone at Azeri Mosque
A Night in Stepanakert: Staying with a Family Featured by Anthony Bourdain
In Stepanakert, Nagorno-Karabakh’s de facto capital, we stayed in a local guesthouse, hosted by a warm and hospitable Armenian family. Our host was no stranger to foreign visitors—he had even appeared in an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s travel show when Bourdain visited Nagorno-Karabakh. That appearance, however, had made Bourdain persona non grata in Azerbaijan, a stark reminder of how deeply politicized even the act of visiting NKR could be.
Feasting on Armenian Hospitality
That evening, our host prepared a massive traditional Armenian feast. We gathered around the table, gorging on freshly baked lavash, khorovats (Armenian barbecue), stuffed grape leaves, and endless plates of fresh vegetables and cheese, all washed down with plenty of rich, homemade Armenian red wine.
Stories of War and Survival
As the night stretched on, our host shared stories of Armenian and Nagorno-Karabakh history, from the Soviet era to the wars that had shaped the region. He spoke with passion and sorrow, detailing the resilience of the people and the uncertain future of NKR.
Sitting in the warmth of his home, surrounded by good food, wine, and conversation, it was hard to imagine the same streets had once been ravaged by war—and could be again. It was a night of hospitality and history, camaraderie and conflict, a true glimpse into life in a disputed land.
Jimmie and Frank are listening to our host share stories about the region’s history
Capitol of NKR-Stepanakert
I am standing next to the monument called, “We Are Our Mountains”, the faces of an old man and woman represent the mountain people of NKR and their Armenian heritage.
Stepanakert: A City on the Brink of War
Stepanakert, the de facto capital of Nagorno-Karabakh (NKR), is a heavily militarized city, its streets lined with soldiers in uniform, ever-present reminders of the fragile ceasefire with Azerbaijan. The atmosphere was tense yet resolute, with billboards promoting military service and patriotism dominating the landscape.
Navigating NKR’s Immigration Process
Before continuing our journey, we stopped at the immigration office to obtain our official entry visa. The officials were curious about our visit, asking a series of probing yet friendly questions about our reasons for coming. Unlike a traditional visa that gets stamped into a passport, our NKR visa was issued on a separate piece of paper, ensuring there would be no direct evidence of our visit in our travel documents—a necessary precaution since Azerbaijan considers travel to NKR illegal and could deny entry to anyone with proof of having been there.
With our paperwork in hand and the tension of the frontline never far from our minds, we prepared to continue our journey deeper into this disputed land—where history, politics, and personal narratives intertwine in ways few other places in the world can match.
Stepanakert
Risk of Visiting NKR: Persona Non-Grata & Legal Consequences
Visiting Nagorno-Karabakh (NKR) via Armenia is considered illegal entry by Azerbaijan and its allies, leading to potential travel bans, detention, or worse.
- Anthony Bourdain was permanently banned from Azerbaijan after visiting NKR.
- A Western European traveler was arrested in Belarus and extradited to Azerbaijan for having an NKR visa.
- Azerbaijan maintains a blacklist of visitors to NKR, restricting entry to its territory and allied nations.
To avoid issues, NKR visas are issued on separate paper, but travelers may still face interrogation if suspected of visiting.
Sneaking into the Warzone of Agdham
Entering Aghdam: A Risky Journey into a War Zone
Finding a driver willing to take us into Aghdam was difficult. The risks were high—vehicles could be impounded by the military, or worse, targeted by snipers or mortars.
Our Armenian driver, Gagik, refused, so we hired a local taxi driver in Stepanakert with an old Soviet Lada, offering extra payment for the risk.
- Secrecy was crucial—the driver requested we sit in the back to remain inconspicuous and avoid being detained.
- The 30-minute drive took us from the rolling hills of NKR into open plains near the Azerbaijan front lines.
- We turned onto a potholed dirt road, passing through abandoned villages where nature had begun reclaiming bombed-out homes.
- As we got deeper into Aghdam, the density of destroyed buildings increased—signs of intense past warfare and ongoing danger.
We were now entering one of the most dangerous and forbidden places in the region.
Entering Aghdam
Abandoned vehicles
Navigating Aghdam: A Forbidden and Dangerous Ghost Town
As we ventured deeper into Aghdam, we occasionally saw local herders guiding goats through the ruined cityscape and the occasional Lada carrying passengers. While locals were allowed entry, no one permanently lived there, per an agreement with Azerbaijan.
- We passed an empty checkpoint—fortunately, no soldiers were present, but we still kept our heads low in case.
- In the distance, Armenian soldiers patrolled the area, and we did our best to avoid them to prevent possible detainment.
- Our driver only let us out briefly, allowing us to take quick photos near the car before urging us to continue.
I had hoped to climb the minaret of Aghdam’s abandoned mosque, which stood dangerously close to the Azerbaijan trenches, but it was far too risky.
- Azeri snipers were known to target climbers, and there had been documented cases of foreigners being shot while attempting it.
- Others had been detained and robbed by NKR soldiers patrolling the area.
The threat of sniper fire, landmines, and military patrols made Aghdam one of the most perilous places I had ever explored.
Aghdam Buildings
Minaret of an abandoned mosque
Aghdam Buildings
A Surreal Exit from Aghdam
After 30 tense minutes in Aghdam, we made a quiet retreat to Stepanakert and spent our final night in Shushi at the same guesthouse. Our host was stunned we had managed to enter Aghdam, given the military presence and risks.
The next morning, we left NKR for Armenia, reflecting on our rare glimpse into a war-torn ghost town, a place few outsiders will ever see.
2020 Update
The Fate of Aghdam and NKR Post-2020
In 2020, Azerbaijan launched a full-scale invasion into NKR, triggering a brutal conflict. A peace agreement between NKR, Armenia, and Azerbaijan resulted in Aghdam and Shushi being returned to Azerbaijan. The war claimed approximately 10,000 lives on both sides, reshaping the region and ending Armenian control over much of NKR.
Aghdam, once a ghost town, is now under Azerbaijani administration, marking a dramatic shift in the region’s geopolitical landscape.