Witnessing the Great Migration: A Budget Safari in Tanzania
November 2011: As part of a larger journey through Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, I spent a week in Tanzania to experience the legendary wildebeest migration across the Serengeti. To keep costs down, I booked a budget safari through a local Tanzanian operator, opting to tent camp every night instead of staying in expensive lodges.
In addition to exploring the vast Serengeti National Park, I also visited the Ngorongoro Crater Reserve, a breathtaking natural amphitheater teeming with wildlife.
This region of Africa undoubtedly lives up to its reputation as one of the greatest wildlife destinations on Earth, offering an unforgettable glimpse into the raw beauty of the natural world.
About the Serengeti
Map of my route to the Serengeti
Into the Serengeti: Wildlife, Maasai Warriors, and Ancient Traditions
The Serengeti, meaning “endless plains” in the Maasai language, is one of the most spectacular wildlife displays on Earth. It hosts the largest land migration in the world, as millions of wildebeest and zebras make their annual journey hundreds of miles from southern Kenya into the Serengeti.
With a 4WD jeep, a driver/guide, and a cook, I spent two days exploring the Serengeti, camping in a wild, unfenced campground with open access to the animals—a raw and immersive experience that brought me closer to nature than ever before.
Meeting the Maasai: Warriors of the Serengeti
Beyond the wildlife, I wanted to experience the Maasai way of life, so I arranged to visit villages not frequented by tourists. The Maasai are the warrior tribe of the Serengeti, known for their tall stature, pride, and legacy of courage.
Traditionally, young Maasai men proved their bravery by hunting a lion alone—a rite of passage into manhood. However, with conservation efforts and modern education, this ritual has changed. Today, young men spend time living in the wilderness with an experienced warrior, learning the ways of the bush rather than killing a lion.
The villages are fortified with circular thickets of thorn bushes, protecting livestock and people from predators like lions and leopards at night. Despite decades of exposure to tourism, the Maasai have held onto many of their traditional ways and beliefs.
In the village I visited, only one man spoke English, having studied in the city. He explained how the Maasai culture is evolving, balancing tradition with the realities of modern life. While the ancient warrior customs have adapted, the Maasai spirit remains unchanged—deeply connected to the land, their animals, and their heritage.
Me with some village kids
Massai Village-
Visiting a Maasai Village Outside Ngorongoro Crater
Just outside Ngorongoro Crater, I visited a Maasai village, a community belonging to the predominant culture of northwest Tanzania, including the Serengeti and surrounding plains. The Maasai are known for their tall stature, warrior traditions, and deep connection to their land and livestock.
The village, like many others, was fortified with thick thorny branches, forming a protective barrier against lions, hyenas, leopards, and other predators that roam the African wilderness. Despite the encroachment of modernity, the Maasai continue to uphold their traditions, living in harmony with the land as they have for centuries.
Massai woman-The majority of Massaii women and men wear abundant necklaces and piercings of colorful beads. Women typically shave all of their hair off and when married wear the white cap like the one above.
Massai man-
Massai women with shaved hair are married
For two days I explored the Massai and saw countless lions, perched on top of rocky outcroppings, massive herds of wildebeest mixed with zebra that can appear one moment filling the horizon in mass only to disappear from the area within just a few hours. I had my own vehicle, and my guide was good about driving to the parts of the park where there were no other tourist vehicles and on the most part we would be alone driving in the park.
The great migration-Every year over a million wildebeest and zebras migrate across the African plains in pursuit of greener pastors. It was one of the most amazing sights of my life. I didn’t appreciate the tetse flies that traveled with them.
Acacia tree
Nile Crocodile waiting for animals to cross the river-Every body of water no matter how small usually has some of these guys.
Safari vehicle watching a giraffe
lions perched on rocks
The leopard mother and her cubs were hiding under the safari vehicle on the run from a troop of baboons that were trying to attack and eat the cubs. The mother carried her cubs from the tree and under the vehicle until the baboons departed.
Mother leopard
Mother leoaprd hid her cubs in oiur wheel well for an hour to protect them from baboons
Pod of hippos
A pride of lions watched patiently over the herds of prey close by waiting for the cloak of darkness to set in before setting off for the hunt.
Chamelion
Thirsty giraffe
Elephant with baby
Migrating zebra
Lone elephant
Camping with Elephants
My guide was shocked when I asked to camp alone in the most remote part of the campground. I realized why later on. During the night, outside my tent I was visited by hyenas, buffalo, and a herd of elephant and a giraffe. Also, not too far away I could hear a lion howling. I love camping in wild places and besides the cost of compared to staying in a lodge was far cheaper. The downside is that wild animals can come and go freely into the campground including hyenas which I would watch at night skulking around the tents with their red eyes reflecting my my flashlight, the occasional lion which I didn’t see but could hear. But what I did see and up close was elephants. I was told by the rangers that once the sun sets to stay in my tent and to not leave under any circumstances which included going to the toilet. I realized why. In the middle of the night, I heard a chewing sound outside my tent. The moon was out and wind calm. I decided to unzip the tent fly just an inch to look out the tent and when I did there was an elephant standing above my tent and the moonlight illuminated the glint of its giant eyes looking down on me. I didn’t move to avoid spooking it and being crushed. The elephant was eating fruits from a tree 30 feet away from my tent and seemed unbothered by me. I stayed in the same position doe 20 minutes waiting for the elephant to go away and one by one the herd walked silently passed by tents like giant night shadows. A huge T-Rex sounds echoed in the distance and sounded like Godzilla was approaching. I stayed in my tent and hoped for the best. The sound never came too close to my tent but in the morning, I discovered the sound was a giant male elephant in must stalking the herd of females. Male elephants in must are very aggressive, dangerous and view anything that gets in between them and mating as the enemy. The big elephant, with an erection as long as its legs, was extremely vocal when we passed him in the morning and charged our vehicle.
My tent in the Serengetti-Seronera Public Campsite
From my tent I heard what sounded like a bunch of dinosaurs roaring and fighting during the night and later on just outside my tent. It turns out an aggressive bull elephant was stalking a herd of female trying to mate with them only to be fought of every time. Judging by the photo above I can understand why they would want nothing to do with this beast.
Ngorongoro Crater
it is hard to imagine going to the Serengeti without visiting the largest volcanic crater in the world, no longer active but full of rich wildlife occupied grasslands. Ngorongoro is also one of the last strongholds of the black Rhino in Tanzania. I camped in a tent on top of the sloped of the crater at Simba Public Campsite and ventured inside by vehicle in the day observing the wildlife.
Inside of the crater=The largest crater in the world with one of the highest densities of wildlife as well.
Cape Buffalo- This big beast frothing with sweat and saliva, also known as the second most dangerous animal in Africa, was one of many visitors outside of my tent my first night in the Serengeti. I was pretty sure to stay very quite.
Hyena
Hyena
Black Rhino
Elephants
Cheetah