Montserrat: The Pompeii of the Caribbean
July 2019: Paula and I couldn’t visit the Lesser Antilles without stopping in Montserrat, a British Overseas Territory often called the Pompeii of the Caribbean. In the 1990s, a devastating volcanic eruption buried the capital, Plymouth, under layers of volcanic ash, forcing the island to relocate its capital to the opposite side.
Visiting the Plymouth Exclusion Zone
Today, visiting Plymouth is only possible with a special permit due to the ongoing threat of volcanic activity and lahar flows. A massive lahar (volcanic mudslide), potentially triggered by an earthquake, is seen as inevitable—making any visit a calculated risk.
Because of this, strict safety measures are in place:
✔ Visitors must stay near a running vehicle at all times
✔ The driver must carry a radio in case of an emergency evacuation
✔ Travel deep into the ruins is strictly prohibited
To explore Plymouth, we arranged a personal tour with David from Gingerbread Hill, one of Montserrat’s most well-known historians and a long-time island resident.
Our travel route on the island
Montserrat: A Three-Day Escape to the Pompeii of the Caribbean
We spent three unforgettable days on Montserrat, an island that quickly became one of our favorite destinations. With its small population, looming active volcano, and serene, laidback atmosphere, Montserrat offered a unique blend of adventure and tranquility.
Our Itinerary
🌴 Day 1: Arrival in Montserrat
✈ Fly from JFK to Antigua
✈ Short 20-minute flight to Montserrat via Montserrat Airlines (twin-prop plane)
🚗 Private transfer to our guesthouse at Clover/Gingerbread Hill, overlooking the ocean
🛒 Visit the grocery store for supplies
🏡 Relax and retire to our private guesthouse
🌋 Day 2: Exploring the Volcanic Exclusion Zone & Coastal Adventures
🏚 Meet David for a guided tour of Plymouth, the former capital buried by the Soufrière Hills Volcano
🕍 Explore abandoned ruins, volcanic ash mining sites, and deserted luxury resorts
🛶 Kayak to the remote white sand beach at Rendezvous Bay
🦇 Visit bat caves along the ocean cliffs
🍹 Stop at local rum houses on the way back
🏡 Return to our guesthouse for the evening
✈ Day 3: Departure to Antigua
✈ Morning flight back to Antigua via Montserrat Airlines
Arrival in Montserrat: A Scenic Yet Bumpy Flight
Our journey to Montserrat began with a short flight on a small turbo-prop plane. Due to weight and balance restrictions, I wasn’t allowed to sit next to Paula, a common quirk of flying on small aircraft.
The 20-minute flight from Antigua was rough, with choppy seas below adding to the turbulence. But any discomfort was overshadowed by the breathtaking aerial views—the sight of Montserrat’s rugged coastline and its towering, smoldering volcano was truly unparalleled.
As we descended into the tiny, sleepy airport, there was no other visible activity—just our plane touching down on an island that felt untouched and waiting to be explored.
Montserrat Airlines flight from Antigua in small turbo prop 20 miniute flight
Montserrat Airlines flight from Antigua in small turbo prop 20 miniute flight
First Impressions of Montserrat: A Hidden Caribbean Gem
I knew right away that Montserrat was special. It wasn’t crowded or overdeveloped—instead, it felt like an undiscovered treasure, cherished by its small, close-knit community.
The island’s laid-back vibe was immediately apparent, especially in the rum bars, where Rasta bartenders poured strong rum drinks while reggae music drifted through the air. The atmosphere was relaxed, welcoming, and effortlessly cool, setting the tone for an island that seemed to embrace simplicity and authenticity.
Montserrat Rasta Man Bartender at a local rum bar
A Warm Welcome & Our Jungle Retreat
Upon arrival, we were greeted at the airport by the owner of our guesthouse, Gingerbread Hill House, who personally picked us up. From the very start, Montserrat felt warm and welcoming, with a hospitality that set it apart from more commercialized destinations.
Our guesthouse was perfect—a charming little retreat perched on a hill with a balcony overlooking the jungle-clad hills and the vast ocean beyond. The view was nothing short of absolute heaven.
For the next two nights, we soaked in the tranquility, enjoying the cool breeze, the distant sounds of the waves, and the feeling of complete seclusion. It was the kind of place that made you forget the rest of the world existed, and we loved every minute of it.
Island jungle view from our guesthouse
Relaxing to some red wine at night
Our private guesthouse and view of the island from our patio
Our private guesthouse and view of the island from our patio
Our private guesthouse and view of the island from our bed
Montserrat: A Secret Retreat for Music Legends
The next day, David, one of the owners of Gingerbread Hill House, and long-time Montserrat resident, historian, and all around great guy, picked us up for our tour to the Plymouth Exclusion Zone. Since visiting Plymouth requires special permits, we had arranged everything in advance through him.
As we drove, David shared stories about Montserrat’s history, including its fascinating connection to some of the world’s most legendary musicians. Over the years, many of these artists became his personal friends, drawn to the island’s seclusion and creative energy.
A Haven for Music Icons
Montserrat was once a hidden refuge for some of the world’s biggest rock stars—The Beatles, Sting, David Bowie, and many others. They came here to escape the paparazzi, the pressures of fame, and the chaos of their celebrity lives, finding peace and inspiration in Montserrat’s untouched beauty.
For years, the island was a sanctuary for creativity, where music legends could write, record, and unwind without distraction. Though Montserrat is no longer a major music hub, its legacy as a retreat for rock icons still lingers—a place where the echoes of their melodies remain woven into the island’s laid-back, soulful atmosphere.
Montserrat’s hidden musical past
Exploring Plymouth: The Ghost City of the Caribbean
Visiting the exclusion zone and the ruins of Plymouth was a surreal and haunting experience—something straight out of Night of the Living Dead.
From the moment we passed the entrance gate, with its stark warnings of danger, we saw no other living soul. The ruins of the once-thriving capital lay buried in volcanic lahar, frozen in time since the day the Soufrière Hills Volcano erupted.
A City Left Behind
Fortunately, residents were given enough warning to evacuate before the deadly lahar engulfed the city—had the eruption been sudden, thousands would have died.
However, the entire population of Plymouth was forced to relocate to the other side of the island, abandoning their homes, businesses, and lives. What remains today is a modern-day Pompeii, a city overtaken by nature, slowly decaying beneath layers of volcanic ash—a chilling reminder of nature’s power and the fragility of human settlements.
Warning Sign at entrance to exclusion zone
Exploring Plymouth: A City Swallowed by Ash
We explored Plymouth by both car and foot, completely awestruck by the sheer level of destruction and eerie desolation. Walking through abandoned apartments, stores, and hotels, it was hard to fathom that this was once a thriving capital, now left frozen in time beneath layers of volcanic ash.
A Constant Threat Looms
Despite the urge to explore deeper, we were not allowed to venture too far from the road. A massive ridge of lahar, precariously stacked on the slopes of the volcano, loomed over the city—a deadly ticking time bomb.
If that ridge were to suddenly collapse, we would receive an alert and have only minutes to escape before a catastrophic landslide crushed everything in its path. It was a chilling realization—a reminder that even decades after the eruption, Plymouth remains a dangerous and unpredictable place.
Plymouth ghost town
The volcano looming in the distance
An eerie shoe store
Shoes left in the store
Volcanic dust collecting on the shoes in the shoe store
Apartments
The volcano looms over its prey in the background
Our guide showing us the ashin an apartment balcony
A toilet in someone’s bathroom completely buried by volcanic ash
A luxury hotel now abandoned
Lobby of luxury hotel
Plymouth ghost town-old governor’s mansion
Before and after at a hotel pool
Kayaking to Our Own Private Paradise: Rendezvous Beach
One of the highlights of our time in Montserrat was kayaking to Rendezvous Beach, the island’s only white sand beach—and best of all, we had it completely to ourselves.
The feeling of arriving on a deserted beach, surrounded by nothing but nature, was pure magic. We swam in the crystal-clear waters, soaked in the island’s quiet beauty, and even explored an abandoned homestead hidden in the jungle nearby.
It was yet another example of Montserrat’s serenity—a place where time seemed to slow down, and we could truly disconnect from the rest of the world.
Local wildlife-Iguana
Rendevous Beach
Paula and I alone on Rendevous Beach after kayaking to it
Paula on Rendevous Beach
Farewell to Montserrat
After three unforgettable days on Montserrat, Paula and I boarded a Montserrat Airlines flight back to Antigua, ready to continue our journey through the Lesser Antilles.
Leaving the island, I couldn’t help but reflect on its haunting beauty, rich history, and peaceful seclusion. Montserrat felt like a hidden world, untouched by mass tourism, where nature’s power and resilience were on full display.