Touchdown in Portugal
December 2019 – One Day, One Country, No Sleep
After a long and exhausting overnight flight on TAP Airlines from Bissau, Guinea-Bissau, I landed in Lisbon, Portugal, early in the morning. Despite running on almost no sleep, I was determined to make the most of my time. This was my first visit to Portugal, and I only had one full day and night—no time to waste.
A Surprising Upgrade
At the Lisbon airport, I picked up my economy rental car, only to be handed the keys to a BMW—the nicest rental I’ve ever had. I didn’t ask for it, but the agency explained it was all they had left, and as luck would have it, their “economy” cars were all BMWs that day.
The Dilemma: Surf or Stones
I had two possible directions for my quick Portugal road trip:
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Head north to Nazaré, home of the world’s most legendary monster wave surfing, where waves can reach up to 100 feet
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Or head east into the Alentejo region to explore the medieval town of Évora, rich in history and architectural charm
I checked the surf forecast—no swell, no monster waves. Decision made: I turned eastward toward Évora, a nearly three-hour drive from Lisbon, through the rolling countryside of southern Portugal.
With a luxury car, a sunny winter sky, and an open road ahead, I was ready to dive into the cultural heart of Portugal.
Drawn to Darkness: Capela dos Ossos
But it wasn’t just the Roman history or quaint architecture that drew me here. What intrigued me most—and ultimately became the centerpiece of my visit—was the haunting and unforgettable Capela dos Ossos, or Chapel of Bones.
Tucked within the Igreja de São Francisco, this small, dimly lit chapel is made almost entirely of human bones—skulls, femurs, and ribs from an estimated 5,000 corpses. Arranged in meticulous, symmetrical patterns along the walls and columns, the bones create an atmosphere that’s as macabre as it is mesmerizing.
A chilling inscription above the entrance reads:
“Nós ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos”
(“We bones that are here, await yours.”)
It was equal parts eerie and fascinating—a stark reminder of mortality, but also of the deep spiritual and historical traditions that shape this country.
My Route in Portugal
The Road to Évora: A Fitting Prelude
Leaving Lisbon, I drove mostly along the highway, but for the final stretch—about an hour—I veered off onto quiet countryside roads that wound through small villages and open fields. The scenery was peaceful and picturesque, offering glimpses of rural Portugal’s charm.
The weather added to the mood: cold, overcast skies, and occasional drizzles misted the windshield. But I didn’t mind. As long as it wasn’t pouring, I was content.
In fact, the melancholic atmosphere felt strangely appropriate—a perfect prelude to visiting a chapel made of bones.
Exploring the Backroads-An Old Castle Structure
Portuguese Stonehenge-Almendres Cromlech
A Detour into Deep Time: Almendres Cromlech
Portugal’s Stonehenge, Lost in the Hills Outside Évora
Just outside of Évora lies one of Portugal’s most mysterious and ancient treasures—the Almendres Cromlech, a Neolithic stone circle often referred to as Portugal’s version of Stonehenge. Believed to have been built around 6000 BC, it predates England’s Stonehenge by over a thousand years and is thought to have been constructed by a Celtic, Druid-like culture that once spanned much of Western Europe.
The Bumpy Road to the Ancients
Getting there wasn’t easy.
I turned off onto a narrow dirt road, riddled with mud puddles and deep ruts. My pristine white BMW rental quickly transformed into a mud-streaked rally car. With every sudden bottom-out, I cringed—half expecting to see pieces of the undercarriage left behind in the road. It was one of those moments where luxury met off-roading in the most unlikely of pairings.
Still, something about venturing off the main road made the experience feel more authentic and exploratory—like I had stumbled onto something secret.
Alone Among the Stones
When I finally reached Almendres Cromlech, I found myself completely alone among the dozens of ancient standing stones, arranged in elliptical formations across a scenic hilltop. The silence was profound.
The purpose of the site is still debated, but it’s widely believed to have served a religious or ceremonial function, perhaps aligned with astronomical events. Standing among the stones—worn by thousands of years of wind and rain—it was easy to feel the weight of time.
It wasn’t just a historical site—it felt spiritual, like the land still held echoes of its ancient builders.
Almendres Cromlech
Almendres Cromlech
Évora: A Walk Through Portugal’s Past
Roman Roots, Medieval Walls, and a Chapel of Bones
After a few hours of peaceful driving through the Alentejo countryside, I arrived in Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Portugal’s most enchanting small towns. Surrounded by ancient medieval walls that date back to Roman times, the town is a living museum of layered history.
Inside the walls, Évora is a maze of cobblestone lanes, whitewashed houses, and an abundance of historical landmarks. Among its treasures are a remarkably well-preserved Roman temple, aqueducts, and countless Gothic and Baroque churches that seem to appear around every corner.
Walk along the medieval walls
Exploring Évora on Foot
Stone Walls, Autumn Leaves, and Narrow Streets
I parked just outside the medieval walls of Évora, deciding against navigating the narrow, winding streets within the old town. I had read that parking was scarce, and frankly, I welcomed the chance to explore on foot.
A scenic walking path led me along the ancient walls and through a grove of autumn-colored trees, their orange and gold leaves carpeting the ground. One of the unexpected joys of traveling in Europe in November is the lack of crowds—most of the people I passed were Portuguese locals, out enjoying their town in peace.
Into the Old Town
From the wall, I descended into the heart of old Évora, following cobblestone streets flanked by whitewashed buildings with red-tiled roofs. Many streets were one-way, and barely wide enough for a car—pedestrians had to press themselves against the walls as vehicles crept past.
The Search for the Chapel of Bones
I tried to find the Capela dos Ossos using GPS, but the twisting alleyways had other plans. Reluctantly, I did what I usually avoid—I asked for directions.
The first people I came across were two middle-aged Portuguese men, laughing loudly and clearly several drinks into their afternoon. It was immediately clear they were quite intoxicated, and just as clearly on their way to the next pub.
But to my surprise, they were incredibly kind and helpful. Rather than simply pointing me in the right direction, they decided to walk with me—a leisurely, chatty 30-minute stroll through the town’s winding streets.
Their company was unexpected, but memorable and generous—a reminder that the spirit of a place often lives in its people, not just its landmarks.
Sentry post
Midievel Tower
Winding cobble stone streets
An old 1000 year old ruined church
Old town
Winding streets
Inside the Chapel of Bones
Where Mortality Meets Architecture
After wandering the old streets of Évora and arriving at the chapel with the help of my two cheerful guides, I purchased my entrance ticket and stepped inside, eager to witness one of Portugal’s most macabre and thought-provoking landmarks.
The Capela dos Ossos is connected to a larger church, where a solemn service was underway as I entered. But I hadn’t come for a sermon—I was here to see skeletons. I moved quietly past the chapel doors and into the smaller, darker adjoining chamber, where thousands of bones lined the walls in intricate, symmetrical patterns.
A Sacred Reimagining of Death
Built in the 1600s, the chapel was constructed during a time when Évora’s cemeteries were being relocated to make room for the growing city. Rather than discard or rebury the disinterred remains elsewhere, the Franciscan monks envisioned something more spiritual—a way to honor the dead while delivering a stark message to the living.
Their reasoning was twofold:
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For the souls of the dead, it was considered more sacred to be interred within church grounds.
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For the living, the sight of so many bones would serve as a powerful reminder of mortality—a tool for reflection and humility before God.
The chapel wasn’t designed to horrify, but to humble. It’s not a monument to fear—it’s a quiet invitation to contemplate life’s impermanence.
The Chapel’s Message: Mortality in Stone and Bone
Many of the skeletons interred here were not anonymous townspeople—they included infants and even monks, some of whom had helped build the chapel itself. Their inclusion was intentional: a symbol of devotion, sacrifice, and spiritual continuity.
The monks believed that by forcing the living to confront death so intimately, they could inspire a more meaningful connection with the divine.
Etched into one of the chapel’s pillars are a series of poems written by the monks, all meditations on death and the fleeting nature of life. One verse, in particular, stayed with me:
“Ponder, you so influenced by fate,
Among the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death.”
It was sobering—but powerful.
A Must-See in Évora
I came to Évora seeking a peaceful, historic escape—and I found that. But I also stumbled upon something deeply profound inside the quiet, bone-lined walls of this humble yet unforgettable chapel.
Visiting the Chapel of Bones wasn’t just a stop on my itinerary—it was a spiritual experience, and one I’m grateful not to have missed.
Pillar of skulls
Altar of Chapel of Bones
Skull Assortment
Wall made of skeletons
Chapel of Bones
Chapel of Bones
Romans in Évora: The Oldest Stones in Portugal
Temples, Aqueducts, and a Rental Car Mishap
As if medieval churches and a chapel built from bones weren’t enough, Évora is also home to some of the most impressive Roman ruins in Portugal. Just outside the city walls, you can still see the towering Roman aqueducts, which once carried water into the city. And within the old town lies Portugal’s oldest standing structure—a 2,000-year-old Roman temple, believed to have been built in the 1st century AD.
A Temple, A Lunch, and A Tight Squeeze
Running short on time, I hopped back into my rental BMW and decided to drive to the Roman temple. I found it easily enough and enjoyed lunch at a nearby restaurant with a view of its weathered columns—a stunning blend of history and casual modern life.
But leaving the old town proved more difficult.
Évora’s narrow medieval streets—a maze of one-way alleys barely wider than a wheelbarrow—quickly got the better of me. Even with my side mirrors retracted, I accidentally turned into a downhill alleyway so tight that I ended up scratching the side of the car. And since there was no way forward, I had to do the most painful maneuver imaginable: reverse uphill.
Saved by Insurance
Thankfully, I had opted for full coverage insurance, and the scratch was fully covered—turning what could have been a stressful ending into just another travel tale with a shrug and a laugh.
Évora may be an open-air museum of Roman, medieval, and spiritual history—but for me, it will always be remembered as the town where I squeezed a BMW through a street built for donkeys.
2000 Year Old Roman Temple
Roman Aqueduct
The Road Back to Lisbon
A Sleepy Drive and a Promise to Return
After a full day of exploring Évora’s Roman ruins, medieval streets, and bone-filled chapels, I began the drive back to Lisbon, where I had a hotel booked near the airport for my early flight the next day.
The drive, however, was miserable. Exhaustion hit hard, and I found myself nodding off at the wheel. I had to pull over at a gas station, catch a desperately needed hour of sleep, and fuel up on caffeine just to make it safely back.
A Taste of Portugal
Despite the fatigue and the scratched BMW, Portugal left a great impression. With only one day and one night, this was more of a teaser trip—a quick glimpse into a country rich with history, charm, and character.