Visiting One of the Most Magical and Conflicted Cities on Earth-Jerusalem, Israel & Palestine

Walking Through History: Three Days in Jerusalem

March 2005: As part of a larger 10-day journey with a friend—one that took us through Jordan, Syria, and even Amsterdam—I spent three days in Jerusalem, Israel. From the moment I arrived, I was acutely aware that I had stepped into one of the most historically and religiously charged cities in the world. The deep-rooted conflict between Muslims and Jews, one of the oldest in history, seemed as unmovable as the ancient stone walls surrounding the Old City. With Islam, Christianity, and Judaism all laying claim to Jerusalem’s most sacred sites, the city carries a weight unlike any other.

For me, as a Christian, there was also a deeply personal reason for visiting—I wanted to walk in the footsteps of Jesus. Of course, no one knows with certainty the exact locations where He walked, where He was crucified, or where His tomb truly lies. Yet, standing in the presence of the places that hold such significance in the story of Christ was an indescribable experience. There is something undeniably powerful about being in Jerusalem, where history, faith, and conflict all intertwine in a way that few other places in the world can match.

Location of Jerusalem

The Long Road to Jerusalem: Crossing from Jordan into Israel

Our journey to Jerusalem started in Amman, where we hired a Palestinian taxi driver to take us to the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge—the only border crossing into Israel that does not place an entrance stamp in your passport. This was a deliberate choice on my part, as an Israeli stamp would effectively bar me from entering several Muslim countries and force me to get a new passport.

What I hadn’t fully anticipated was just how grueling Israeli immigration and security would be. Out of all the border crossings I’ve encountered in my travels, this was by far the most difficult. It didn’t help that my friend and I both had fresh Syrian visa stamps in our passports—something that immediately raised red flags. Syria and Israel are still technically at war, and trying to explain to Israeli officials that we had visited Syria for the “beautiful scenery and friendly people” was not exactly convincing.

What followed was a four-hour ordeal of intense scrutiny. We were subjected to multiple layers of security, including strict body checks and interrogation by Israeli intelligence officers. They questioned us extensively about our travels, our purpose for visiting, and even personal details that seemed irrelevant. Eventually, after what felt like an endless back-and-forth, we were granted entry.

Once inside Israel, we found ourselves in a kind of no-man’s land within the Palestinian Territories. There were no clear transport options, and we had to negotiate with local drivers to take us deeper into Palestine. We eventually secured a ride to Jericho, one of the oldest cities in the world, where we could catch a shared Palestinian bus.

From Jericho, we traveled across the arid, sun-scorched landscape of the Palestinian Territories, heading toward the border that separates Palestine from Israel. The approach was stark and unmissable—barbed wire fences, military barricades, towering concrete walls under construction (eerily resembling the Berlin Wall), and heavily armed Israeli soldiers.

At the checkpoint, the bus was stopped, and we underwent another round of screening. We were patted down, checked for weapons, and questioned once again. After a 30-minute process, we were finally allowed to cross into Israel.

From there, the bus continued to Jerusalem, winding through the hills until we reached the gates of the Old City—a place layered with history, conflict, and deep religious significance. The journey had been exhausting, but stepping into Jerusalem felt like stepping into the pages of history itself.

First Impressions of Jerusalem: A City of Faith, Chaos, and Tension

Jerusalem is a city of contrasts. My first impressions were a whirlwind of sensory overload—busy, chaotic, modern in some places yet ancient and well-preserved within the Old City walls. The energy was intense, the streets alive with a constant flow of people, from pilgrims and tourists to locals going about their daily lives.

It was also unapologetically touristy. Religious tourism is big business here, and it was clear that many were making a living off it. Endless rows of stalls lined the narrow streets, selling everything from rosaries and menorahs to postcards and plastic trinkets. And where there are eager pilgrims and curious travelers, there’s no shortage of people ready to swiftly separate them from their money.

But beyond the commerce, Jerusalem was undeniably a meeting ground of cultures and faiths, all blending together—whether they liked it or not. Orthodox Jews walked the streets in their traditional black robes, beards, and wide-brimmed hats. Muslim worshippers gathered in groups, their call to prayer echoing across the city. Christians of all denominations could be found retracing the footsteps of Jesus—some carrying heavy crosses through the streets, others whipping themselves in acts of devotion.

Everyone seemed to claim a part of Jerusalem. Wars have been fought over this city for centuries, and even today, there is no shortage of religious fanatics willing to die for it. That history—of faith, of conflict, of deep-rooted belief—gave Jerusalem an ever-present undercurrent of tension. It wasn’t something you could see, but you could feel it, lingering in the air like an unspoken truth.

Old city gates

Trinkets for sale at souvenir stalls 

The Western Wall: A Sacred Place of Prayer

One of the holiest sites in Judaism is the Western Wall, also known as the Wailing Wall—a name derived from the many pilgrims who come here to weep in prayer. It is one of the last remaining original walls of the ancient Jewish Temple, built during the time of King Solomon and later expanded under Herod the Great.

Despite its deep significance in Judaism, the Western Wall is not just a place for Jewish worshippers. People of all faiths visit this sacred site, pressing their foreheads against the massive stones, whispering prayers, and tucking handwritten notes into the crevices—messages of hope, gratitude, and devotion. The atmosphere is thick with reverence, a quiet intensity that lingers in the air as people bow their heads in silent reflection.

Standing before the wall, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of history, faith, and the unshaken resilience of those who have prayed here for generations.

Orthodox Jews at the Wailing Wall

Orthodox Jews at the Wailing Wall

Orthodox Jews at the Wailing Wall

The Two Sites of the Crucifixion: A Tale of Faith and Dispute

One of the most interesting things I learned in Jerusalem is that there are two locations where Christians believe Jesus was crucified—and which one is “correct” depends on who you ask.

For Roman Catholics and Eastern Orthodox Christians, the holiest site is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This ancient church, built over what is believed to be both the site of the crucifixion and Jesus’ tomb, is an awe-inspiring but chaotic place. The church is shared under a fragile agreement between different Christian factions, but tensions sometimes flare. In fact, disputes over control have occasionally led to broom fights between priests—a bizarre but very real reminder of the deep divisions that still exist.

For Protestants, however, the preferred location is an entirely different place—the Garden Tomb, an outdoor site near the city’s bus station. Despite its modern surroundings, the garden itself is a serene and beautiful place, with a rocky cliff containing ancient tombs. Many Protestants believe that this is the true site of Jesus’ burial and that the adjacent hill is where He was crucified.

I visited both locations, and while neither can be confirmed as the exact place where Jesus’ death and burial took place, both are undeniably powerful and historically fascinating. Standing in these places, whether within the ancient, incense-filled halls of the Holy Sepulcher or in the quiet, sunlit Garden Tomb, it was impossible not to feel the weight of history, faith, and the devotion of millions who have journeyed here before me.

The slab of stone believed to be where the body of Jesus lay. 

Entering into the tomb of Jesus

The Garden Tomb: A Place of Peace and Reflection

Of the two places where Christians believe Jesus was crucified and buried, the Garden Tomb felt the most plausible based on biblical references—and, more importantly, it just felt right. Unlike the crowded and chaotic Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the Garden Tomb was a place of serenity and natural beauty. The trees, the birds, and the calm atmosphere created an overwhelming sense of peace, a stark contrast to the rest of Jerusalem’s intensity.

Here, I had an experience I will never forget. I was able to sit alone inside the tomb, close the door behind me, and meditate in total darkness. There was something deeply moving about that moment—being in the stillness of a place believed to be where Jesus was laid to rest. Whether or not this was the true site, the experience itself was profound. It was not just a visit, but a moment of spiritual reflection, one that left a lasting imprint on my journey through the Holy Land.

Me in front of Tomb of Jesus

Inside tomb of Jesus

The Temple Mount: A Sacred but Inaccessible Site

Jerusalem is not just holy to Jews and Christians—it is also home to some of the most sacred sites in Islam. One of the most significant is the Temple Mount, crowned by the striking golden Dome of the Rock, which dominates the city’s skyline. This site, built atop the ancient Temple of Solomon, is considered the third holiest place in Islam, believed to be where Prophet Muhammad ascended into heaven during the Night Journey.

Given its immense religious importance—and the long history of conflict surrounding it—the Temple Mount is heavily regulated by Israeli authorities. Security is tight, and during my time in Jerusalem, foreigners were not allowed to visit. Israeli police patrolled the area, ensuring strict control over who could enter.

Standing outside, looking up at the gleaming golden dome, I felt the weight of history and faith pressing down on this contested piece of land. It was a reminder that Jerusalem is not just a city—it is a battleground of belief, where the world’s great religions intersect, sometimes in harmony, but often in tension.

Temple Mount

Old City with Temple Mount and ancient cemetery as seen from Mount of Olives

Walking Through History: The Mount of Olives to the Old City

One of the most unforgettable parts of my time in Jerusalem was my visit to the Mount of Olives, a site layered with religious and historical significance. Partly located in the Palestinian territories, this is where Jesus gave one of His most famous sermons and, according to Christian belief, ascended into heaven. But beyond its Christian importance, the Mount of Olives is also home to a Palestinian village and an ancient Jewish cemetery with tombs dating back over 3,000 years—one of the oldest continuously used burial sites in the world.

Rather than taking a taxi back, my friend and I chose to walk from the Mount of Olives back into the Old City—a decision that turned out to be one of the highlights of our visit. The route was packed with fascinating sights, from historic churches and panoramic viewpoints to quiet alleyways and bustling street markets. Walking allowed us to truly absorb the energy, diversity, and layers of history that make Jerusalem such a remarkable place. It was an incredible experience, and one that made me appreciate the city even more.

Me at the Mount of Olives

Ancient cemetary

Jerusalem at Night: A City Frozen in Time

Nighttime was my favorite time in Jerusalem. Even as the city settled into quietness, its history seemed to come alive. The crowds thinned, the chaotic energy of the day faded, and the shadows of the past stretched across the ancient streets. Walking through the dimly lit alleys and corridors of the Old City felt like stepping back in time—I never knew what I would stumble upon, and I loved every moment of aimless wandering and exploration.

For my stay, I chose a small guesthouse in the Old City, a place with history of its own—Mark Twain once stayed here. But the real highlight of this guesthouse was its rooftop terrace, a simple space with chairs where guests could sit and gaze out over the rooftops of Jerusalem. I spent countless hours here, both at night and in the early morning, watching the city stir to life. The best moments were at dawn, when the sound of church bells clashing with the haunting call to prayer echoed through the ancient streets, a powerful reminder of the spiritual significance of this place.

Jerusalem is a city that evokes strong emotions—many travelers find it overwhelming or difficult to love. But for me, it was magical, mysterious, and unforgettable.

Walls of the old city at night

The Church of the Sepulcher, where Catholics believe Jesus was crucified  

King Herod’s pool, now a garbage pit

The Forgotten Remains of King Herod’s Villa

All that remains of what was once a grand and opulent villa of King Herod is now nothing more than a pit—a hollowed-out remnant of its former glory. Once the site of a luxurious pool, a symbol of extravagance and power, it has now been reduced to a garbage dump, where residents of the nearby apartment buildings casually toss their trash from their windows.

The contrast is striking—what was once a place of royalty and indulgence is now a neglected, forgotten ruin. It’s a reminder of how time spares nothing, not even the legacies of kings

Leaving Jerusalem: Crossing Back into Jordan

After our time in Jerusalem, we retraced our steps back to Jordan, crossing once again through the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge—the same border crossing we had used to enter Israel. This time, the process was a little smoother, though still slow and heavily monitored.

Once back in Jordan, we continued our journey, ready to explore more of what this fascinating country had to offer. The transition from the intensity of Jerusalem to the more open landscapes of Jordan felt like stepping into a different world—one just as rich in history, but with a different kind of energy.