May 2015: Swaziland (now officially Eswatini) is one of the most unique countries I’ve ever visited. Ruled by King Mswati III, Ingwenyama, since he turned 18 in 1986, it remains Africa’s last absolute monarchy. The king, known for his lavish lifestyle, has 15 wives and 36 children. Every year, during the famous Umhlanga (Reed Dance) ceremony, thousands of young, topless girls adorned in traditional miniskirts participate, with one chosen as the king’s new bride. The scene is something straight out of a real-life version of Coming to America.
But Swaziland isn’t just about royal pageantry—it also faces deep socio-economic struggles. Despite the king’s immense wealth, around 70% of the population lives in poverty, and the country has one of the highest HIV rates in the world at nearly 40%.
Intrigued by this contrast of tradition, royalty, and hardship, Paula and I set off on a three-day journey to Swaziland. Our adventure included staying in a remote mountain village and exploring the wild Gobholo Cave—an unforgettable spelunking experience in one of the least-developed cave systems I’ve ever seen.

Billboard of the King

Location of Swaziland
Home Stay in a Mountain Village
To reach Swaziland, Paula and I rented a car in Kruger National Park, South Africa-One of Africa’s Greatest National Parks and One of the Only Parks Where You Can Drive Your Own Vehicle Up to Wild African Animals, South Africa | Venture The Planet, and set off on a long drive toward the tiny kingdom. By the time we arrived in Mbabane, Swaziland’s chaotic capital, night had already fallen. Navigating the city was nerve-wracking, and I nearly got into an accident in a massive, disorganized roundabout.
We were following our GPS to a small mountain village called Kaphunga, where we had arranged to stay in a local homestay. However, our GPS kept sending us in circles. Frustrated and exhausted, we finally pulled over at a small mechanic shop and asked a local family for directions. It was already dark, and we debated whether to just get a hotel in town, but we didn’t want to give up on the idea of experiencing village life.
Fortunately, the family at the shop not only knew where Kaphunga was but also insisted on guiding us there. Concerned for our safety, they led the way in their own car. The journey was far from easy—at times, the rough dirt road required nearly 4WD capability. We followed them for over an hour through winding, unmarked roads until we finally reached the small, electricity-free village high in the mountains. When I stepped out to thank them and offer money for their trouble, they refused. It was one of those moments in travel that restores your faith in humanity—the pure kindness of strangers going out of their way to help.
Our host was already waiting for us. Since the village had no electricity, I had arranged the homestay through a South African tourism website that helps local villagers earn income. The host, a friendly young man, had built several beehive huts in the traditional Swazi style, using intricate weaving techniques rarely seen in modern homes.
It was late, so we only had time for dinner, which he cooked over a large open fire. We sat together, sharing a traditional meal under the stars before Paula and I crawled into our hut and settled onto a simple mattress on the floor, falling asleep to the sounds of the African night.

Dinner time

Our hut

Paula in our hut

Traditional beehive huts
In the morning, we woke to stunning mountain views and enjoyed a traditional breakfast with our host. Afterward, we explored the village, meeting locals and gaining insight into daily life. A highlight was visiting the village school, where enthusiastic children welcomed us warmly.

Village

Paula taking photos

Meeting the villagers

Friendly village lady

Village chief who informed us he has multiple wives,a common practice in Swazi culture

Village school

School kid
Gobholo Cave
The highlight of our trip was spelunking in Gobholo Cave, one of the largest granite caves in the world. Unlike limestone caves, which are formed by acidic water eroding rock, Gobholo is an erosional cave carved out by a flowing stream of water carrying small rocks and sand.
I booked the trip through a local caving organization, and Paula and I met our guide at night. We hiked through the forest in darkness up the side of a mountain until we reached the entrance of the cave. We had the entire cave to ourselves, though I soon realized that the space was so tight that there wouldn’t have been room for anyone else anyway. The tunnels of this granite cave were the smallest I’ve ever explored, and it didn’t take long before we were squeezing into small chutes. The experience was incredibly claustrophobic. Most of the tunnels were barely wide enough to walk through, and some required crawling.
For Paula, the tight spaces were easier since she’s smaller, but for me as a tall and stocky guy, I often got stuck. At one point, I found myself completely unable to move. I felt overwhelmed with panic, but our guide helped me stay calm and guided me through breathing techniques and movements to get loose and keep going. The worst part was a chute about 30 feet long called the “nut breaker,” named for the sharp rock that jutted out in the middle, forcing you to crawl over it. True to its name, it hurt in that specific spot. We also saw some cave life—a bat was nesting near our heads, and we encountered a few cave spiders.
The cave ended at a waterfall, where the water disappeared into a dark hole. From there, we circled back to the entrance. The whole trip took around five hours, and by the time we emerged, we were completely exhausted.
But the best part was yet to come. Our guide drove us to a natural hot spring known as the “cuddle puddle.” It’s typically visited by topless Swazi women, but since it was nighttime, we had the place to ourselves. Our guide had pre-ordered hot pizza and cold beers for us, and we soaked our tired muscles in the warm waters, celebrating our victory over the cave.

Me in Gobholo cave in the nut cracker chute

Paula and I

Paula in her element

Gobholo Cave

Paula and I in Gobholo cave
Paula and I spent one night at Hotel Manzini, where we rested and reflected on our adventure in Swaziland. The following day, we flew to Namibia- Etosha National Park, the Desolation of the Skeleton Coast & Camping with the Himba Tribe in the Deserts of Northern Kaokoland, Namibia | Venture The Planet to continue our trip, eager for the next leg of our travels.