November 2013: An Unplanned Country

Dakar Nights and West African Characters

The day began like any other in Dakar—recovering from a night out that involved beach bars and conversations with an intriguing new American acquaintance. He was one of those characters you seem to meet only in West Africa: a man who provided security training in developing countries, had overseen security at a logging camp in Angola, and somehow also owned a bar in Kabul. I couldn’t help but wonder if he might have been connected to the CIA. People like him have a way of appearing in places like Mali or Senegal, always with stories that sound half unbelievable and entirely plausible.

A Flight Bound for Sierra Leone

Later that day, I boarded an ASKY Airlines Boeing 737 bound for Sierra Leone. The flight was almost entirely West African passengers, with only three Americans onboard—myself, a Peace Corps volunteer, and a Sierra Leonean-American returning home to build a second house. We quickly struck up a conversation, trading travel stories as we flew east across West Africa.

Midway through the flight, the pilot came on the intercom in a thick Russian accent to announce an unexpected stop in Banjul, The Gambia. Banjul was definitely not on my itinerary—but it was about to become the only country I would ever visit completely by accident.

Stranded in Banjul

The plane landed without incident, but after thirty minutes on the tarmac, the pilot walked down the aisle and announced we had suffered a tire rupture and would need repairs before continuing. The cabin doors were opened, allowing us to stretch our legs and take in the humid evening air.

Another thirty minutes passed before the pilot returned with worse news. The mechanics had gone home for the night, and immigration officials were gone as well. We couldn’t leave the terminal, and repairs wouldn’t happen until morning.

A Fortunate Twist

Eventually, an airline representative arrived with unexpectedly good news. The airline had arranged hotel rooms, meals, and even a small cash allowance for each passenger until the plane could be repaired. After sitting in a powerless, sweltering terminal with nowhere to sit, the idea of a beach hotel felt like winning a small lottery.

We were escorted out of the airport—bypassing immigration entirely—and loaded onto a shuttle bus. Just like that, I found myself enjoying a “free” overnight stay in a country I had never planned to visit.

Making the Most of It

Once at the hotel, my new friends from the flight and I decided to embrace the situation. Armed with our modest airline stipend, we headed out to explore nearby bars and enjoy the evening. What had started as a frustrating delay had turned into an impromptu beach getaway—and an unexpected Gambian memory I never could have planned.

The Accidental Country

The Gambia is the smallest country on mainland Africa and very much a product of colonial design. Formerly a British colony, it would almost certainly be part of Senegal—and French-speaking—had colonial borders been drawn differently.

A Nation Built Around a River

The country follows the winding course of the Gambia River, which defines its geography, economy, and history. Agriculture remains important, with peanuts as one of its major exports.

Sun, Sand, and Europe

Today, The Gambia is best known for its tropical beaches and relaxed atmosphere. Tourism fuels much of the economy, particularly from Europe. British travelers, in particular, come in large numbers, drawn by affordable resorts and the promise of an easy, sun-soaked beach holiday.

Location of Gambia

Crumbling main terminal building

A Night on the Gambian Coast

We arrived at our beach hotel late in the evening, and it looked promising even in the dark. I dropped my backpack in my room and headed straight down to the beach. Despite the lack of light, it felt calm and inviting, and I made a mental note to return in the morning to see it properly.

Dinner and a Small Stipend

I met up with friends from the plane for a quick buffet dinner included with our stay. We also cashed in the airline’s $20 spending stipend and set off along the quiet coastal roads, searching for the beach bars known for their nightlife.

An Unexpected Scene

It didn’t take long to find them—rustic bars with live music and a scene that was impossible to ignore. There was a heavy presence of both male and female sex workers, with many young local men seated alongside older European women, most of them British.

At first, I only suspected what was happening. That changed after a few candid conversations. One British woman in her 60s, openly affectionate with a young local man—often referred to by locals as a “toyboy”—told me bluntly that she came to The Gambia specifically for sex with younger African men, often involving gifts in exchange. In her exact words, she said, **“I like African **.”

The women around her laughed together as she spoke, almost as if they were sharing a private joke or unspoken agreement.

It struck me as a complete reversal of the more familiar sex-tourism dynamic I had seen elsewhere in the world. Here, it was largely women participating, not men.

A Very Short Night

After a few drinks, my friend and I headed back to the hotel in the early hours, ready for sleep. Just as I was settling into bed, loud knocking echoed at my door. An airline employee was urgently rounding up passengers—the plane had been repaired, and we were leaving immediately.

It was 2 a.m. I remember thinking, Really? Now? But there was no choice.

Back in the Air

I tried waking my friends; one was already passed out with his door locked. I suspected several passengers would miss the flight, but I wasn’t one of them. We returned to the airport and boarded the plane. The pilot explained that he wanted to test the repaired tire while taxiing.

Somewhere during that test, I fell asleep.

When I woke up, we had landed in Sierra Leone.

A Free Country, Courtesy of ASKY

Just like that, my accidental visit to The Gambia was over—an unplanned, free country added to my travels, courtesy of ASKY Airlines. All I could do was laugh at how surreal the entire detour had been.