March 2023: Before this trip, I knew next to nothing about Tuvalu, and I imagine the same goes for most of the world. It’s rare for Tuvalu to make headlines, and if it does, it’s usually about the threat of rising sea levels that could one day submerge the nation entirely. With such limited visibility, it may well be one of the least-visited countries on Earth. Nauru may have fewer tourists, but with a larger number of foreign contractors stationed there, Tuvalu likely claims the title as the least-visited by international travelers. Paula and I spent three days in Tuvalu, arriving from Suva, Fiji, as part of a larger “babymoon” trip across the Pacific Islands. Our visit was short but unforgettable, and this is the story of our experience.
About Tuvulu

Tuvalu on map
Tuvalu is a tiny island nation along the equator, composed of an archipelago that feels as remote as it does close-knit. With a population made up mostly of Micronesian people, Tuvalu is often noted as the least-visited country in the world. Currently, only three flights a week connect it to the outside world via a 2.5-hour flight from Suva, Fiji on Fiji Airlines. Flights are so infrequent that, in between them, the runway doubles as a playground for children—a testament to the laid-back pace of life here.
Despite its small size, Tuvalu has one of the strongest communal spirits I’ve experienced in my travels. Everyone seems to know each other, and the friendliness is genuine and infectious. The island is impressively clean, with little litter, well-maintained streets, and tidy houses that show a collective pride. While the island may not offer a wealth of activities, we felt comfortable, welcome, and enjoyed our stay immensely.
The economy of Tuvalu is modest, yet it has thrived through some enterprising moves. Early in the internet era, the country claimed the highly coveted “.tv” internet domain. Leasing this domain has brought in over $50 million, which has helped fund social programs and healthcare for its small population. Tuvalu has also found an international market for its rare stamps, catering to collectors around the world. Visiting the post office—one of the nicest buildings in Tuvalu and one of the only places with blasting air conditioning—was fascinating. The walls were decorated with old, rare stamps for sale, beautifully curated, and clearly treasured. The stamps and Tuvalu’s other philatelic items are even available for purchase online, adding an unexpected connection between this tiny nation and the world beyond.
The Runway
We flew to Tuvalu aboard a small ATR turboprop plane from Suva, Fiji, which took about 2.5 hours. Upon landing, the plane touched down on a modest tarmac runway nestled in the heart of the island, positioned between both shorelines. Immigration was quick, and within minutes, we were heading to our accommodation, the Filamona Hotel, which felt more like a homestay than a traditional hotel. Tuvalu has no luxury resorts or hotels, and accommodations here are simple but comfortable. The Filamona Hotel is located just alongside the runway, so the walk from the airport was so short, I’m certain I set a personal record for getting from the plane to the hotel. The whole process was wrapped up in less than 20 minutes.
From the hotel, I sat on the balcony, beer in hand, and watched as my plane departed for Fiji. With that, we were left with just a few other adventurous tourists for the next three days, until the next international flight would return to Tuvalu. Until then, Paula and I would be staying on this peaceful island atoll in the middle of the Pacific.
Tuvalu might have the only international airport runway that doubles as a playground. An hour after the plane had left, the runway was filled with children playing a variety of games: volleyball, soccer, dodgeball, and even riding their bikes. Locals also use the runway as a shortcut for their motorbikes and vehicles on occasion.
Paula and I enjoyed strolling along the runway in the late afternoon when the sun began to set and cool off. We loved watching the children play, and I even attempted to join a dodgeball game. However, I quickly realized my age and lack of agility were against me, as I failed miserably to hit any of the nimble 10-year-olds and almost managed to throw my shoulder out in the process.
Another interesting aspect of life on the island was the strong Christian faith of the locals. Most of the people are Protestant Christians, and they take their faith very seriously. Every afternoon, a loud siren would sound from the airport to signal prayer time. At this cue, all the children would stop their games and kneel down to pray for 15 minutes before returning to their play. It was a peaceful and reverent tradition that added another layer to the island’s unique charm.

Our plane departing after dropping us off

Kids playing volleyball on the runway
The sun in Tuvalu is undeniably intense, and exploring the island on foot was challenging as we tried to avoid overheating. Paula, especially, was starting to feel unwell, and with her pregnancy, she was extra careful not to overexert herself. The streets, though lively, were narrow, and it was difficult to walk without stepping aside for the motorbikes zipping past along the thin shoulders of the road.
Despite these challenges, we did manage to explore parts of the island, taking in the local sights and the tranquil atmosphere. We were able to catch a stunning sunset, watching as the sky transformed into a mix of vibrant colors over the horizon. The landscape was serene and beautiful, and while the heat made it difficult to fully immerse ourselves in all the island had to offer, the peacefulness of the place still captivated us.
The people of Tuvalu were incredibly friendly and kind. Whether it was a simple nod, a smile exchanged with a passerby, or a greeting from a local, everyone we met seemed genuinely welcoming. Even though we were strangers in their tight-knit community, it felt as though we were part of something much larger, and the warmth of the people made our short stay even more memorable.

Local girls holding a puppy

Kids playing on a boat in the ocean with a sand dredging boat in the background that is dredging sand to counter the erosion and rising sea levels.

Sunset
Funafuti Conservation Area
I’ve always loved the idea of tropical, deserted islands, and Tuvalu has a few of them nestled within a nearby marine reserve. If Paula hadn’t been pregnant, I would have organized a camping trip to one of these islands, but we decided that a day trip would be the best option for now. This excursion turned out to be the highlight of our trip to Tuvalu.
We traveled to the reserve by small boat, about an hour from Funafuti, the main island. I’d heard about these protected islands from a fellow traveler, so I made arrangements with the manager of our hotel. Along with a few other guests, we shared the cost of the boat ride. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate, as torrential downpours fell throughout the night and morning, almost jeopardizing our plans. However, after a brief break in the rain, we made our way to the islands.
The moment we set out, the storm clouds gathered again, and the sky quickly grew darker. Our boat, a small open-top craft with a tiny outboard motor, felt particularly vulnerable with no life jackets to be found. What should have been a 20-minute ride stretched to 40 minutes, as the choppy waves and rising winds tossed us around. Soon, we couldn’t even see the main island behind us, surrounded by thick clouds and the looming threat of more rain.
We were relieved when we finally arrived at the first island in the marine reserve, just beyond the coral rim of the lagoon. We rushed to seek cover under the jungle canopy and an old, rusted metal structure, remnants of a bygone era that seemed like something out of a WWII relic. Thankfully, the rain held off long enough for us to make landfall, but it wasn’t long before the downpour started again. We sheltered for a while, watching the rain, before eventually venturing out to enjoy the island.
Despite the storm, the island was a paradise. We swam in the clear, blue water and walked around the entire island, which took us about 40 minutes. Even though the storm had stirred up the water, it also created a striking contrast between the dark blue ocean and the lighter hues of the lagoon. After a few hours of exploring, we visited a couple more islands before heading back to Funafuti, where the weather had calmed down, and the storm seemed to have passed over for good. The experience was a reminder of the raw, unpredictable beauty of the Pacific islands—and the resilience of the people who call them home.

Deserted island in Funafuti Conservation Area


Deserted island in Funafuti Conservation Area

Deserted island in Funafuti Conservation Area

One of the deserted islands had a lush and well preserved jungle forest infested with small forests that I really thought was beautiful

Deserted island in Funafuti Conservation Area

Paula Talking to Our Daughter to be on a Deserted island in Funafuti Conservation Area
On the third and final day of our stay in Tuvalu, we eagerly awaited the arrival of our flight, the excitement almost palpable as we watched the kids continue to play on the runway. It was a strange sight, considering the importance of the plane arriving, but there was no confusion. Everyone seemed to know the routine, and as the time for the plane’s arrival drew near, the authorities began clearing the area with surprising efficiency.
The process was managed with a series of audible sirens spaced 10 minutes apart, signaling the different phases of preparation. The first siren let everyone know they had to clear the area, and the authorities quickly got to work ensuring that no stray animals—dogs or pigs—were left on the runway. They also set up cones to block off the entrances. The last siren was a final alert, telling everyone that the plane was just 10 minutes away. And then, sure enough, the plane arrived as expected.
What struck me most about this experience was the significance of the plane’s arrival in such a remote place. It wasn’t just another flight; it was an event that brought people together. The airport, small as it was, would be packed with people—some greeting relatives who could be gone for years, others shipping or receiving cargo. For us, the process was refreshingly smooth.
The check-in process was surprisingly efficient and one of the best I’ve ever experienced. We left our luggage at the hotel, walked just 20 feet to the airport, and there were no lines. A few Tuvalu police officers, part of the national forces, were there to greet us, and they asked a few curious questions about our country. When one of them learned we were from the USA, he smiled and commented that we were lucky to be from the world’s most powerful country. He also shared that he had visited Norfolk, Virginia, while working on a ship and had loved our country.
After this pleasant and casual check-in experience, we walked back to our hotel, had lunch, enjoyed a cold beer, and waited for about an hour before boarding our flight back to Fiji. It was a simple but memorable end to our brief yet enriching time in Tuvalu, a place that, despite its remote location and limited infrastructure, had a warmth and sense of community that made it feel like a home away from home.