Chile is one of my favorite countries in South America, largely because of its extreme diversity in landscapes. From the towering Andes Mountains to the windswept plains of Patagonia, the lush temperate forests of the southern fjords, and the driest desert on Earth—the Atacama Desert—Chile is a land of contrasts. And, of course, there’s Rapa Nui (Easter Island), home to the mysterious Moai statues standing sentinel in the South Pacific.
Here are a few travel stories from my time exploring the Chilean mainland—when my wife and I rented a car and car-camped in the coastal Atacama Desert and from my visit to Torres del Paine National Park, the crown jewel of Patagonia.
About Chile
Location of Chile
Chile is a vast country, 87% larger than California yet with 19.1 million fewer people. Stretching along the spine of the Andes Mountains, it runs from the northern Atacama Desert—the driest place on Earth—all the way to the southern tip of South America. Rich in rare earth minerals, Chile is a global mining powerhouse, and despite its relatively low population compared to its neighbors, it is considered one of the wealthier nations in South America per capita.
Like most South American countries, Chile has faced its share of political turmoil. The country still struggles to escape the long, dark shadow of its past under the brutal military dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet (1973–1990), a period marked by thousands of executions, disappearances, and widespread torture. Civilians deemed a threat to the regime simply vanished, never to be heard from again. Though Pinochet is long dead, many of those who carried out his regime’s brutalities remain free and have never been brought to justice.
For those interested in Chile’s complex history, the Museum of Memory and Human Rights in Santiago serves as a powerful tribute to those who suffered under Pinochet’s rule. It stands as a stark reminder of the country’s past and its ongoing struggle for truth and justice.
Overview of Photographs of all of Pinochet’s Victims in the Human Rights Museum, Santiago
Close-up of Photographs of all of Pinochet’s Victims in the Human Rights Museum, Santiago
Torres Del Paine National Park
March 2008: My first visit to Chile was in March 2008, coming from El Calafate as part of a larger journey en route to Antarctica. One of the longest day trips of my life took me to Torres del Paine National Park, and the experience was simply mind-blowing.
The park’s jagged, majestic mountains towered over a landscape teeming with wildlife—herds of guanacos grazing in the open, rhea birds dashing across the steppe, curious Patagonian foxes watching from a distance, and Andean condors soaring high above.
Torres del Paine is also one of the best places in the world to spot a wild mountain lion (puma). The abundance of guanacos draws them into the open, making sightings surprisingly common. In addition to its wildlife, the park boasts hundreds of miles of wilderness trekking trails, making it a paradise for hikers and adventurers.
My brief visit left me wanting more, and one thing is certain—I will definitely return someday.
Torres Del Paine National Park
The Towers
Wild Guanaco
Patagonian Fox
Wild Guanaco
Atacama Desert
September 2013: I returned to Chile to visit Rapa Nui (Easter Island), the remote South Pacific island famous for its massive Moai statues. Since Rapa Nui is part of Chile, the best way to reach it was via Santiago, the country’s capital.
As part of this trip, Paula and I also took the opportunity to explore Santiago and venture into the Atacama Desert in the north—one of the driest and most surreal landscapes on Earth. This journey gave us a taste of Chile’s incredible diversity, from its bustling capital to its ancient island mysteries and vast desert expanses.
About the Atacama Desert
The Atacama Desert, which stretches between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes in northern Chile, is the driest desert in the world outside of Antarctica. It is 50 times drier than Death Valley, and some areas have never recorded a single drop of rainfall. As a result, much of the Atacama is completely devoid of vegetation—not even cacti can survive in its most arid regions.
Yet, despite the extreme dryness, life always finds a way. I first learned about the fog deserts of the Atacama from an episode of Planet Earth. These unique ecosystems exist along the coast, where the freezing Humboldt Current collides with the warm desert air, creating dense fog. This fog provides just enough moisture for specially adapted cacti to thrive, which in turn support animals like guanacos and desert birds. These herbivores rely on the cacti for hydration, while predators like foxes and pumas sustain themselves by hunting them.
The nutrient-rich Humboldt Current also brings a wealth of marine life to the Atacama’s coast, attracting Humboldt penguins, sea lions, and even whales to its cold waters.
After visiting Easter Island, Paula and I explored Santiago before flying north to Copiapó, where we rented a car and drove to Pan de Azúcar National Park. This national park was a perfect example of the fog desert ecosystem, with miles of trails leading up to towering cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It was surreal to witness such a harsh yet thriving landscape, where the ocean and desert coexisted in an unlikely balance.
Political themed street graffiti on buildings in Santiago
Copiapo Old Building
Paula and I spent four days exploring the Atacama Desert from our rental car, using a remote beach campground in Pan de Azúcar National Park as our base. The campground was more of a wilderness site—isolated, rugged, and breathtakingly beautiful. As far as we could tell, we were the only campers there.
Our site had a simple stone shelter to block the relentless desert wind, a fire grate for cooking, and a separate shower and toilet. We set up our tent and cooked all our meals using supplies we had picked up at a grocery store during our drive from Copiapó.
Watching the sunset over the ocean, with dolphins swimming by, a cozy campfire, and a glass of red wine in hand, felt like paradise. In such a vast and empty landscape, it was just us, the desert, and the sea—pure tranquility.
Our Campsite at Pan De Azúcar National Park
Paula Preparing Food at Our Campsite at Pan De Azúcar National Park
Going for a Freezing Swim at Pan De Azúcar National Park Beach
The main attraction of Pan de Azúcar National Park is the hike up to the clifftops, where groves of fog-adapted cacti thrive. These cacti have tiny hair-like structures designed to collect condensation from the ocean fog, allowing them to survive in one of the driest environments on Earth.
This rugged landscape is also home to desert guanacos and foxes, which roam the rocky terrain in search of food. But the real highlight of the hike is the breathtaking views—towering cliffs dropping off into the vast Pacific Ocean, with waves crashing far below. Standing at the edge, looking out over the endless blue, felt like witnessing a world untouched by time.
Desert Guanaco
Desert Fox that came very close to us looking for food
Paula next to a cactus in the desert with a towel to protect her from the sun
Fog desert cactus
Paula looking out over the desert
Incredible views
The dry interior desert of the Atacama was completely void of life—an endless expanse of barren, sun-scorched earth. After a brief venture inland, we quickly realized that the coastal desert was far more beautiful and dynamic. The presence of fog-supported vegetation, roaming guanacos, and breathtaking ocean views made it a far more rewarding place to explore. We found ourselves drawn back to the coastline, where the desert and the sea met in a stunning contrast of extremes.
Small roadside memorial to a car accident victim in the interior desert
Inside Pan de Azúcar National Park, there is a small fishing village where we found some of the freshest and cheapest seafood imaginable. We took a day trip to the village, indulging in delicious seafood straight from the ocean before joining a small fishing boat tour to a nearby island.
The island was home to a colony of sea lions and Humboldt penguins—the only penguin species that lives near the equator. These penguins thrive in Chile’s coastal waters thanks to the cold Humboldt Current, which flows northward from the southern Pacific, keeping the region’s temperatures surprisingly cool.
Seeing penguins in a desert setting was surreal, a reminder of how Chile’s unique geography creates some of the most unexpected and fascinating ecosystems on Earth.
Sealion
Humboldt Penguin Colony
While waiting for our flight in Copiapó, I got a firsthand experience of why Chile is one of the most earthquake-prone countries in the world. The country sits atop a massive subduction fault where the Nazca Plate collides with and is forced beneath the South American Plate, making it one of the most geologically active regions on Earth. Some of the largest earthquakes ever recorded have occurred in Chile, including the 9.5 magnitude Valdivia earthquake in 1960—the most powerful in history.
As I sat in the airport, I suddenly felt the ground tremble beneath me. It was brief—just a few seconds—but the force of it was undeniable. The building shuddered, and my heart raced. Looking around, I expected to see panic, but to my surprise, no one even reacted. It was just another day in Chile.
The quake caused no visible damage, but the experience left me shaken. I couldn’t help but imagine what it would have felt like if it had lasted 30 seconds to a full minute—long enough to bring buildings crashing down. The thought was terrifying, and it gave me a newfound respect for the sheer power of Chile’s restless earth.