March 2023: As part of a larger “babymoon” trip through the Pacific Islands, my pregnant wife, Paula, and I spent three days in Taiwan. I had only experienced Taiwan during layovers in the past, so this was my first proper visit. A major motivation for the trip was the escalating tensions with China—I wanted to see Taiwan while it was still peaceful. During our stay, Paula and I explored Taipei and visited a few mountain villages. This is the story of our trip.
About Taiwan
After World War II, China erupted into civil war between communist forces led by Mao Zedong and the Kuomintang (KMT), the nationalist forces under General Chiang Kai-shek. This brutal civil war claimed millions of lives, ultimately leading to the retreat of the KMT to the island of Taiwan. They brought with them many of Beijing’s riches and gold reserves and established a separate government, the Republic of China. In the early years under Chiang Kai-shek, Taiwan was ruled under martial law, with authoritarian measures that led to thousands being arrested or killed on suspicion of disloyalty or espionage.
Eventually, Taiwan transitioned into a democracy and grew into an industrial and technological powerhouse. However, China views Taiwan as a renegade province and has vowed to reunify it by force if necessary. Taiwan’s security relies heavily on the U.S.’s deliberately ambiguous promise to defend it in the event of an invasion. Over recent decades, Taiwan has sought international support for its independence, but China has used its economic power to prevent Taiwan from gaining official recognition in the U.N. Many military analysts believe that a conflict over Taiwan is likely inevitable.
Despite its small size and one of the world’s highest population densities, Taiwan is rich in rugged mountains, hot springs, and lush, verdant forests. While it may lack the ancient historical landmarks of its larger neighbor, Taiwan is known for its warm-hearted people, diverse cuisine, and breathtaking landscapes.
Location of Taiwan
Paula and I flew into Taipei, the capital of Taiwan, which would serve as our base for exploring the area. Initially, I had planned for some adventurous mountain hikes, but with the rainy weather and Paula being pregnant, I decided to save the hiking for another trip. I was also interested in visiting the Matsu Islands, a group of islands under Taiwanese control that lie just eight miles from mainland China and are right on the front lines of the tension between the two countries. However, this would have required another flight and additional travel time, so I opted to save this idea for another day as well.
Instead, I booked us a comfortable stay at the Royal Biz Taipei Hotel, conveniently located near the Dongmen area. Dongmen is known for its vibrant outdoor market, filled with traditional food stalls, local vendors, and restaurants. Our hotel’s location was also within walking distance of Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Square, offering us easy access to one of the city’s most iconic sites. Staying here allowed us plenty of time to explore Taipei, dive into the local food scene at the market, visit the memorial, and make use of the nearby metro station and train connections to explore some of the surrounding mountain villages
Flight into Taipei on United Airlines
Chiang Kaishek Memorial Square
Despite General Chiang Kai-shek’s authoritarian rule—marked by ruthless governance that led to the imprisonment or execution of approximately 140,000 people—and the near-cult of personality he fostered with statues of himself erected across the country, he remains respected as Taiwan’s founding figure. In Taipei, a massive square named in his honor stands as a tribute, surrounded by grand, ornate buildings reflecting traditional Chinese architectural style. At the heart of the memorial sits an imposing statue of the general, enthroned in one of the palatial buildings, with Taiwanese soldiers standing guard. Every hour, visitors gather to witness the solemn changing of the guard ceremony, a tradition that continues to underscore his complex legacy in Taiwan’s history.
View of Chiang Kaishek Memorial Square
Chiang Kaishek Changing of Guard Ceremony
Chiang Kaishek Changing of Guard Ceremony
Day Trip to Shifen Village Waterfalls
Originally, I had planned some waterfall hikes, but with the rain and wanting to keep things easy, we opted for the more accessible Shifen Waterfalls, reachable by a paved trail. Getting there involved about three hours of travel from Taipei, including an underground metro ride. Though COVID face masks are mostly a thing of the past in many places, they’re still legally required on public transit in Taiwan. Even in places where they aren’t mandatory, it’s rare to see anyone outdoors without a mask; people wear them even while riding motorbikes or driving solo.
From Taipei’s central station, we caught a train toward the mountains outside the city. At the last metro station, where the tracks start winding steeply through a mountain river gorge, we switched to an old diesel train that filled the cabin with faint diesel odors, but the stunning mountain scenery more than made up for it.
Shifen turned out to be a popular weekend destination for locals, with the town lively and bustling. The main attractions here are the waterfalls, mountain trails, and traditional restaurants lining the town’s streets. Despite the drizzle, we enjoyed exploring on foot, as the entire town—including the falls—is accessible from the train station, making for a charming and convenient outing.
Shifen bridge over the river
Shifen Falls
Forest Reserve
Small Buddhist Temple
Chinese Lanterns
Small Buddhist Temple
Sending Off a Chinese Lantern for Our Daughter
As soon as we stepped off the train in Shifen, we were captivated by the sight of dozens of colorful lanterns floating up into the sky. Shifen is famous for its lanterns, a traditional Chinese art that involves sending personal wishes or blessings into the heavens. For a small fee, locals in town assist visitors in crafting these lanterns and releasing them from the train tracks near the station. Once lit, the lanterns rise like tiny hot air balloons, drifting higher and higher until they vanish from sight.
Paula and I decided to join in, writing a message of love and good luck for our future daughter, now almost four months along in Paula’s belly. With guidance from a friendly lantern shop owner, we carefully wrote our message in both English and Chinese characters. Then, with excitement, we set our lantern aloft as the shop owner snapped photos of us releasing it.
In our enthusiasm to take part in this beautiful tradition, we hadn’t considered the environmental impact of the lanterns. But as we later noticed several spent lanterns scattered along the riverbed, it struck me that each lantern eventually falls back to earth, adding to local pollution. It was a poignant reminder of the balance between honoring traditions and protecting the environment.
Both Paula and I wrote several messages to our future daughter on the lantern before sending it up
Paula and I sending our lantern up into the sky that is dedicated to our daughter with messages of love to her
Our Lantern in the sky
Taiwan Traditional Chinese Market
Taipei’s bustling food markets are legendary, and we had initially planned to explore several, but we kept returning to Dongmen Market, just a short walk from our hotel. Nestled in an old industrial building and spilling out into the surrounding streets, Dongmen had everything we could want: a maze of cheap, varied food stalls that made us feel like kids at a state fair, eager to sample as many dishes as possible.
The market offered an impressive spread: fresh meats, pork, exotic fish, traditional desserts, vibrant fruit drinks, noodles, egg sandwiches, and countless hole-in-the-wall eateries with a cozy, mom-and-pop feel. One morning, we skipped the hotel’s overpriced, formal breakfast and opted for a more immersive experience. For just a few dollars, we bought coffee and fried egg sandwiches from a street vendor. Sitting on tiny plastic chairs in the alley, we enjoyed our meal surrounded by the lively buzz of the market—a true slice of everyday Taipei life.
The market reminded me of the traditional Chinese marketplaces I’d come to love during my previous visits to China, full of life and tradition. It felt special to find this culture thriving here in Taiwan, and returning each day only deepened our appreciation for Taipei’s vibrant food scene.
Entrance to Dongman market
Dongman Market
Paula in the Dongman Market
Fruit Drink vender
Butcher
Food vender
Dongman Market
One evening, craving a nice dinner, we wandered back to Dongmen Market, but as it was winding down, our hopes for a good meal were low. Yet, we stumbled upon a small sushi restaurant still open, with a few lively patrons who warmly welcomed us in. One of them spoke English and kindly helped translate the menu. Soon, we were immersed in this unexpected moment of camaraderie, treated to free Taiwanese beers and even shots of Taiwanese whiskey to go along with the sushi. Paula declined, being pregnant, and when the owner, who doubled as the sushi chef, heard the news, he congratulated us with genuine warmth, shaking our hands.
He proudly shared photos of his young son, who he said was studying at home despite it being Friday night. Then, to our amazement, he pointed to a framed pair of tiny wooden shoes hanging on the wall and explained they were his son’s baby shoes. He wanted us to have them. We hesitated, unsure if he was serious or simply being generous in his happy, slightly tipsy state. Glancing at his wife, who was busy working behind the bar, I realized she was just shy and didn’t speak English—but there was no hint of objection. The chef insisted, posing for a photo with us as he presented the framed shoes to Paula.
It was a deeply touching gift from our new Taiwanese friends, and we carried those framed shoes with us for the rest of our trip. Safely back home, they now hold a place of honor as a beautiful reminder of this warm-hearted encounter in Taipei, one that made our experience of Taiwan even more special.
To Our new friends in the small sushi restaraunt
The chef presenting his sons shoes to paula and our future daughter as a gift
Paula and I even found a small, affordable massage stall within the market, where we enjoyed a relaxing, side-by-side massage—a perfect way to unwind. Our time in Taiwan was brief, but the kindness of its people and the warmth we felt left a lasting impression on both of us. We hope to return someday, to explore more of the country with our daughter and, of course, to visit that cozy sushi restaurant again. We’d love to bring a photo of our daughter, holding those tiny wooden shoes that had belonged to the chef’s son, as a heartfelt way to show our gratitude and share in this beautiful connection across borders.