February 2008: One of my life’s quests is to swim with as many marine mammals as possible, and the adorable, roly-poly manatee was high on my list. There’s no better place to see manatees in the wild than Central Florida in winter, when they gather in the freshwater springs. As ocean temperatures drop, the springs remain a stable, warmer refuge, drawing manatees inland along rivers to seek warmth and feed on the abundant aquatic plants.
Determined to swim with them, I cashed in some airline miles and flew to Florida for a weekend trip, with my sights set on Crystal River and Homosassa Springs—two of the best places to encounter manatees up close.
I flew into Tampa Bay, rented a car, and immediately drove north to Fort Cooper State Park, where I camped for two nights at a remote site on the edge of a lake. This tranquil spot held historical significance—it was the site of battles between the U.S. government and the Seminole Indians during the Second Seminole War (1835–1842). Though I was in Florida, the winter chill was intense. To keep warm in my tent, I maintained a roaring bonfire all night, feeding it with a generous stack of firewood.
Fort Cooper State Park/view from my campsite
The next morning, I drove to Crystal River and snorkeled with dozens of laid-back manatees. Crystal River is a guaranteed spot to see them, but unlike the wilder Homosassa River, it winds through residential neighborhoods, making the setting feel less remote. Certain areas are roped off exclusively for manatees, and local neighborhood watchers monitor snorkelers to ensure they keep their distance. While it was still an incredible experience, it lacked the untouched, natural feel I had found in Homosassa.
After an hour with the manatees, I headed to nearby Rainbow River for a scuba dive—one of the highlights of my trip. The water was crystal-clear, with near-perfect visibility at a depth of about 30 feet. The riverbed featured small limestone caves to explore, and enormous, prehistoric-looking alligator gar fish glided past, sometimes swimming right up next to me. Unfortunately, my underwater camera was only rated for five feet of depth, making it impossible to capture a good photo of the gar lurking along the bottom.
I also visited Devil’s Den, a stunning underground spring cavern perfect for snorkeling. Descending into the cavern felt like entering another world, with the sunlight filtering through the rocky opening above, illuminating the deep blue water below. It was the perfect way to wrap up my time exploring Florida’s unique freshwater springs.
Crystal River Manatee
Rainbow River
Devils Den Cave Springs
On my last day in Florida, I packed up my tent and drove to the Homosassa River before sunrise, determined to catch the first boat out to the outer springs where the manatees congregate. Unlike Crystal River, which has houses along its banks, Homosassa River remains wild and forested, offering a more untouched setting for encountering manatees in their natural habitat.
With only a handful of other tourists, we set out on the boat toward the outer springs. As we arrived, we spotted a dozen manatees lazily floating on the water’s surface. The captain simply turned to us and said, “Go ahead and jump in.” There were no strict rules, no other boats, and no crowds—exactly the kind of raw, immersive experience I had hoped for.
The morning air was crisp, and steam rose from the warm spring water as I slipped in. Unlike the crystal-clear waters of Crystal River, the water here was murkier, and the thought of alligators—also known to inhabit these waters—briefly crossed my mind. But there was no time to worry. As soon as I entered, the manatees came to me.
One swam right up and nudged me curiously. I instinctively reached out and began scratching its belly, and it rolled over like a giant, underwater puppy. For the next hour, I simply floated, surrounded by these gentle giants. As long as I remained calm and non-threatening, they continued to approach, investigating me just as much as I was admiring them.
It was an unforgettable experience. After leaving the springs, I raced back to Tampa Airport and caught my flight home—still buzzing from my incredible morning with the manatees.
friendly manatee eating plants off a rope connected to our boats anchor- Homosassa River
Eye to Eye with a manatee
Snorkeling with manatees floating on the surface of the water in Homosassa River with morning mist rising from cold early morning waters