Learning to Love Hawaii
First Impressions from Afar
August 2025: When I hit my 100-country milestone in my early 30s, I remember someone asking if I had ever been to Hawaii. My answer — no — left them shocked. How could I have seen so much of the world and never set foot in America’s Pacific paradise?
But to me, Hawaii had always felt like a place for other people’s dreams. Growing up in the Midwest, it was the ultimate vacation spot for many families I knew — but the version I pictured was one of mega-resorts, manicured golf courses, and tourists in matching aloha shirts. I saw it as a playground built at the expense of Native Hawaiian land and culture. And so, I never felt drawn to it.
When Kauai Changed Everything
That perception began to shift after I finally visited Kauai. Hiking and camping along the Kalalau Trail, I discovered the raw and untamed side of the islands: jagged cliffs plunging into turquoise seas, hidden beaches, and the wild beauty of the Nā Pali Coast. It was a revelation — a Hawaii far different from the postcard resorts I had once dismissed.
The Big Island — Where Fire Meets Sea
Years later, for Indie’s second birthday, we set out to explore the Big Island. Like Kauai, I knew it offered incredible natural beauty — but it also promised something even more extraordinary: active volcanoes. In the last year alone, they had been erupting on an almost biweekly basis, sometimes sending lava fountains a thousand feet into the sky. That raw, unpredictable energy of the Earth was something I couldn’t pass up.
Here, volcanoes soar above 14,000 feet, their slopes draped in cloud forests and rivers of lava rock. On the coast, black-lava beaches stretched for miles, dotted with resting sea turtles. We wandered through misty valleys and visited sacred Hawaiian sites, from Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau — the Place of Refuge — to the emerald cliffs of Waipiʻo Valley.
Hawaii in the Bigger Polynesian Picture
By then, I had already explored other Polynesian islands — the Marquesas, Samoa, Tonga — each with its own beauty and cultural depth. Yet Hawaii stood apart. It was the most diverse of them all, offering volcanic craters and tropical rainforests, barren lava plains and white-sand beaches. Its history, language, and traditions have influenced far more of the world than most people realize.
Four Days, One Celebration, Endless Memories
In the end, our trip was about more than landscapes. It was about family. For four days and three nights, I celebrated Indie’s birthday with her mom, grandma, and her Filipina titas, discovering a Hawaii that is very much alive — a place of wild beauty, deep history, and a culture that still beats at its heart.
Our driving route on the Big Island
Arrival in Kona – A Perfect Starting Point
Fortunately, from San Diego there’s a direct flight to Kona, which meant we could skip the usual connection in Honolulu and save precious hours of travel time. Even better, we had a friend whose mom owned a beachside condo in Kona and graciously offered it to us for two nights. Not only did this save us a good chunk of money, but it also gave us a perfect, central location to base ourselves from.
Balancing Comfort and Adventure
Our plan was simple: spend two nights in Kona and then camp one night inside Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park on the night of Indie’s 2nd birthday. I couldn’t resist the chance to celebrate her special day surrounded by one of the most unique and powerful landscapes on Earth.
Traveling in a Big Crew
With Paula, her mom, Indie, and three of Indie’s titas all coming along, we had no choice but to rent a massive vehicle. While parking in Kona was occasionally a headache, once we got outside of town, the island opened up — endless roads, open space, and scenery that demanded we pull over more than once.
Kona’s Charm and Limited Time
I really liked Kona and the comfort of the condo, but our time on the island was short, and the pull of exploration was strong. Most of our days were spent on the road, chasing experiences rather than lounging on the beach.
Day 1 – Swimming With Gentle Giants
A manta ray that emerged beneath us
Swimming With the Angels of the Ocean
A Passion for the Underwater World
Paula and I have always shared a love for swimming with marine giants — from bull sharks to humpback, sperm, and beluga whales. So when I learned we could snorkel with giant manta rays in Hawaii — each spanning 12 to 15 feet — I knew it was an experience we couldn’t pass up. I booked it months in advance, knowing the tours fill quickly.
I’d scuba-dived with manta rays in Yap before, but this was different. This time, I would be in the open ocean at night, hand-in-hand with my wife, floating above a natural feeding ground under the stars.
Into the Night
Just before sunset, we climbed aboard a small zodiac-style boat for the short 20-minute ride from shore. The captain stopped over a calm, dark bay and tossed a large paddleboard into the water, its edges wrapped with rope. This would be our base. A cluster of lights beneath the board shone down into the black water — attracting swirls of plankton, which in turn drew the mantas.
The First Approach
We slid into the ocean, gripping the rope as our bodies floated face-down, heads submerged. The sea was alive with motion. Shapes began to emerge from the darkness below — first shadows, then wings, then the unmistakable, graceful spirals of the mantas. Six of them glided around us, looping and swooping in slow-motion acrobatics.
They were enormous — a few tons each — yet moved with such grace they felt like ocean angels. They brushed past us, inches from our faces, never aggressive, almost playful. One even grazed me with its wing, and instead of fear, I felt a strange sense of connection, as if it was acknowledging me.
The Magic of the Moment
We were told sharks often roam these waters at night, but with so many manta rays around, they kept their distance. The thought barely crossed my mind anyway — I was too mesmerized. The only challenge was keeping my legs lifted on floating noodles to avoid accidentally kicking the mantas as they passed beneath us.
For an hour, in the pitch-black Pacific with only eight people in our group and no other boats nearby, it felt like we had the ocean to ourselves. The rhythmic rise and fall of the swells, the glow of the lights, and the constant ballet of these gentle giants combined into one of the most magical marine encounters of my life.
Manta Ray Acrobatics
Video of our night with giant manta rays
Day 2 – Moonlight, Coffee, and Hidden Beaches
A Morning to Remember
Even though the condo’s ocean-view balcony tempted us to sleep in, we were all awake by 4 a.m., buzzing with excitement for the day ahead. Indie padded out onto the balcony with me, and together we watched her favorite thing in the whole world — the moon. On this morning it was full and setting over the Pacific, casting a silver path across the waves. Sitting there with her in awe, I felt like the trip was already worth it.
Fueling Up Big Island Style
After our quiet moonset moment, we grabbed steaming Kona coffee and refreshing açaí bowls, the perfect fuel for a long day of exploration. Then we set out north of Kona toward our first beach stop.
Mahaiʻula Beach — Beauty on a Lava Road
Reaching Mahaiʻula Beach meant navigating a rough lava-rock road that shook our big rental car more than a few times. But the reward was worth it: a quiet, picturesque beach with hardly anyone else around. We searched for turtles and monk seals along the sand and tidepools but came up empty this time. Still, the raw beauty of the place — white sand framed by black lava — made it feel like our own private slice of Hawaii.
Looking Ahead to Kīholo Bay
As much as I loved the solitude of Mahaiʻula, my mind was already pulling me toward our next destination: Kīholo Bay. I had been looking forward to it for weeks — not just because it’s a hotspot for sea turtles, but because I wanted to swim in the freshwater lava tube caves tucked behind the bay. The mix of volcanic landscape, turquoise ocean, and hidden springs sounded like the perfect adventure.
Mahaiʻula Beach
Mahaiʻula Beach
Kīholo Bay – Turtles, Springs, and Lava Tubes
A Bay Full of Life
From Mahaiʻula, we continued along the coast to Kīholo Bay, a place I had been especially eager to explore. The bay is famous for its calm turquoise waters and its resident population of Hawaiian green sea turtles, or honu. We wandered the shoreline scanning the shallows until, sure enough, we spotted them — ancient, slow-moving figures grazing on seaweed in the gentle surf. Watching Indie’s face light up as she saw her first wild turtle made the detour feel unforgettable.
Paula and I took Indie into the ocean with us and let the warm waves lap over our shoulders while we watched the turtles glide past. In Hawaiian culture, the honu are more than just animals — they are symbols of longevity, wisdom, and peace, often regarded as guardians of ancestors. Many Hawaiians believe that if you treat the honu with respect, they will bring protection and guidance. Holding Indie close as the turtles swam by, I felt that blessing in a way I’ll never forget.
Swimming in the Lava Tube Springs
The real adventure waited just inland, where freshwater springs bubble up inside lava tube caves. One of the most famous spots is known as Queen’s Bath — a sacred pool where, in ancient times, only Hawaiian nobility were allowed to bathe. Today, anyone can step inside, but knowing its past added weight to the experience.
When we arrived, we discovered we had it entirely to ourselves. I carried Indie into the cool water, holding her tightly as the chill wrapped around us. At first she cried from the shock of the temperature, but soon she relaxed and began to love the experience. Together we stood in the stillness of the cave, sunlight filtering through the entrance while the darkness stretched into untold depths. It felt both intimate and otherworldly — a rare moment of solitude in such a sacred place.
A Perfect Blend of Wild and Serene
Kīholo Bay struck me as the essence of the Big Island: volcanic, raw, yet teeming with life. Between the turtles basking on black rock and the underground springs hidden in the lava, it was both untamed and peaceful. Sharing it with Indie made it even more meaningful. It quickly became one of my favorite stops of the trip — the kind of place where time slows down and you realize you could happily stay all day.
Kīholo Bay
Kīholo Bay
Kīholo Bay sea turtle
Group posing behind sea turtle
Indie and I in a lava tube freshwater spring-Queens Bath, Kīholo Bay
Indie and I in a lava tube freshwater spring-Queens Bath, Kīholo Bay
Waipiʻo Valley – The Sacred Valley of Kings
Through Cowboy Country
From Kīholo Bay, we drove inland through the rolling green highlands of Waimea, a town often called Hawaiʻi’s cowboy country. Here, paniolo — Hawaiian cowboys — have worked cattle ranches for generations, and the landscape feels more like the wide-open American West than a tropical island.
The Overlook at the End of the Road
Our drive ended at the Waipiʻo Valley Lookout, perched above one of the most storied and sacred places in all of Hawaii. From the overlook, the view was breathtaking: steep emerald cliffs dropping into a fertile valley floor, a black-sand beach stretching along the shoreline, and waterfalls cascading down the ridges beyond. It felt like a glimpse into a wilder, untouched Hawaii.
At the entrance, a booth stood with a man who stopped non-Hawaiian vehicles from driving down the narrow, treacherous road into the valley. This wasn’t just about safety — it was also about respect. Waipiʻo Valley is sacred to Native Hawaiians, and those who still live there prefer to keep their way of life private. Outsiders may hike down to the beach, but access to the inner valley is reserved.
The Valley of Kamehameha
Waipiʻo is not only stunning but deeply historical. It is said to be the childhood home for Kamehameha I (Kamehameha the Great), who would go on to unite all the Hawaiian Islands under his rule. Here, as a boy, he learned to live off the land, hunting and farming in the fertile valley, and developed the toughness that would later define him.
Kamehameha was remembered not only for his leadership but for his towering size and unmatched strength. Oral traditions describe him as a giant of a man, over six and a half feet tall in an age when most men were much smaller, with the build of a warrior and the ferocity of a chief destined for greatness. His legendary feats included overturning the Naha Stone, a massive boulder said to weigh more than two tons — a task only a future king was believed capable of. Stories of his power and battlefield dominance spread across the islands, making him both feared and respected long before he claimed the throne.
Dreams of Another Trip
Looking out over Waipiʻo, I felt both awe and longing. Beyond the visible beach and valley floor lie wild, roadless lands — cliffs, hidden valleys, and trails that stretch into remote wilderness. There are campsites and multi-day treks that call to me, but with a toddler in tow and only a few days on the island, those adventures will have to wait for another trip.
Waipu Valley
Family Photo at Waipu Valley
Forest Trails and Akaka Falls
Into the Island’s Old Growth
After leaving Waipiʻo Valley, we made our way toward one of the largest remaining old-growth forests on the Big Island at Kalōpā State Recreation Area . Walking beneath towering trees draped in vines, we felt a shift from the open coastal views into a shaded, almost primeval world. It was a reminder of how diverse the island is — from lava fields to cloud forests, each turn feels like a different planet.
Akaka Falls — Impressive but Crowded
Our next stop was ʻAkaka Falls, one of Hawaii’s most famous waterfalls. At 442 feet, the falls plunge dramatically into a gorge surrounded by lush rainforest. On paper, it should have been one of the highlights of the trip.
But for me, it wasn’t my favorite. The area was crowded with visitors, and when we finally reached the viewpoint, the sun was positioned directly behind the falls, making photos difficult. While the sheer scale of the waterfall was impressive, I found myself wishing for the quiet, more intimate places we had seen earlier in the day
Paula by a forest giant/Kalōpā State Recreation Area
Kaumana Lava Caves – Into the Earth
A Quick Stop Underground
Not far from Hilo, we made a short detour to the Kaumana Lava Caves, a wild and rugged reminder of the island’s volcanic power. Unlike some of the more developed caves in Hawaii, Kaumana feels raw and untamed — just a staircase from the roadside drops you into the mouth of a massive lava tube formed by an 1881 Mauna Loa eruption.
Exploring With Flashlights
Armed with our own flashlights, we scrambled over boulders and uneven rock, making our way a short distance into the dark tunnel. The air grew cooler, the light dimmer, and the cave stretched ahead into an endless black corridor. It was thrilling, but with a baby in my arms and Indie’s titas alongside us, it quickly became clear this wasn’t the time for a deep exploration. After a taste of the underground world, we turned back toward daylight.
A Glimpse Into Hawaii’s Volcanic Heart
Even in that brief visit, Kaumana gave us a sense of the raw power that shaped the island — tunnels carved by rivers of molten rock, now frozen in time. It was the perfect prelude to what awaited us next: the living, breathing volcanoes of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
Kaumana Lava Caves
Day 3 – Snorkeling and Sacred Ground
Two Step Beach – Beneath the Surface
On our third morning — Indie’s second birthday — we packed up, checked out of the condo, and headed south to Two Step Beach, often considered one of the finest snorkeling spots on the Big Island. The water was clear and teeming with colorful fish, and though the coral was beautiful, the crowds made it feel a little less serene than I hoped.
I had read that dolphins often swim into this bay at dawn, almost tame in the way they glide right alongside snorkelers. Spinner dolphins, in particular, are known to rest and play in these waters, sometimes leaping into the air and spinning as if to show off. The thought of being in the water with wild dolphins — so close you could almost reach out to them — had me thrilled with anticipation. Sadly, none appeared while we were there, but just knowing that this was a place where people often share the water with them made the experience feel electric with possibility.
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau – The Place of Refuge
Just next door lies Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, one of the most sacred places in all of Hawaii. Known as the Place of Refuge, this was where anyone who had broken a kapu (taboo) — even those facing a death sentence — could be spared if they managed to reach these protected grounds. Once inside, they were absolved by priests and allowed to live.
Walking through the site, you can still see one of the few remaining traditional Hawaiian structures, surrounded by ancient stone walls. It feels quiet, powerful, and deeply spiritual. Beyond its role as a sanctuary, this sacred ground also served as a royal burial site, where generations of Hawaiian kings were laid to rest.
A Private and Magical Experience
Unlike the crowded waters of Two Step, the Place of Refuge felt intimate and timeless. Standing there with Indie on her birthday, surrounded by the sound of the ocean and the whisper of palms, it was easy to imagine the gravity this place once held for those whose lives depended on reaching it. For us, it was one of the most moving stops of the trip — a glimpse into Hawaii’s history and spirituality that still resonates today.
Indie at Two Step beach
Indie and I swimming at Two Step Beach
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
Toward the Volcanoes
Driving the Southern Coast
Leaving the Place of Refuge, we began the long drive along the southern stretch of the island toward Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. The road carried us through stark volcanic landscapes where endless fields of black rock stretched to the horizon, reminders of the island’s fiery origins.
We stopped at the famous Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach, its shoreline glittering with fine volcanic grains washed smooth by the sea. This beach is known for being one of the best places on the island to spot Hawaiian green sea turtles basking on the sand. Unfortunately, the beach was busy with visitors, and no turtles had come ashore that day.
The Ghost of a Hotel
What I found most striking at Punaluʻu wasn’t the sand itself but the haunting ruins nearby. Just inland stand the remains of the Sea Mountain Hotel, once a thriving seaside resort. In 1975, a powerful earthquake triggered a tsunami that swept through the area, devastating the hotel and forcing its permanent closure. Today, its concrete skeleton lies in quiet ruin, slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Standing there, it was hard not to reflect on the sheer force of the Pacific and the way Hawaii’s beauty is inseparable from its volatility. The black sand and the abandoned hotel together told a story — of paradise, yes, but also of impermanence.
Volcano House – Dinner by the Crater
Our ultimate goal was to reach the Volcano House Campground, where we would spend the night. For Indie’s 2nd birthday dinner, we had something truly special planned: a meal at the historic Volcano House Restaurant, first built in 1846, perched on the rim of Kīlauea’s massive summit crater.
To dine overlooking one of the world’s most active volcanoes — one that has erupted on and off for decades — felt surreal. The view itself was a celebration: steaming vents, the vast crater floor, and the knowledge that beneath our feet, the Earth was very much alive. Sharing that moment with Paula, Indie, her grandma, and titas made the evening unforgettable.
Southern coast
A tsunami destroyed abandoned Sea Mountain Hotel
A tsunami destroyed abandoned Sea Mountain Hotel
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park – A World of Fire and Forest
A Familiar Symbol in a Faraway Place
The highlight of our trip was Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. It felt almost surreal passing through the gates and seeing the familiar National Park Service emblem — the same one you’d find in Yellowstone or Yosemite — but now standing in the middle of the Pacific on the volcanic lands of Hawaiʻi.
Rain, Cold, and Lava Fields
When we arrived, it was cold and raining. Hiking was tough, and fog covered much of the crater rim. We still managed to walk across a devastated area of fresh lava rock and stood on the crater’s edge, though we could barely see anything through the mist. Although we had just missed the most recent eruption episode by only a few days — and the next wasn’t predicted for weeks — volcanic activity was everywhere. Steam hissed from vents in the ground, smoke billowed out of the crater, and when the wind shifted, the sharp smell of sulfur drifted through the air, a constant reminder that this landscape is alive and shifting beneath your feet.
Into the Cloud Forest
From the barren lava fields we entered the cloud forest, where giant ferns and old-growth trees towered above us. The sudden shift from volcanic wasteland to lush jungle showed how alive and diverse the park truly is.
The Thurston Lava Tube
The best part was hiking into the Thurston Lava Tube (Nāhuku). The tunnel, carved centuries ago by a river of molten lava, was dark, dripping, and echoing. Walking through it gave us a visceral sense of the immense volcanic forces that built this island — a reminder that the Big Island is still being created even as we explored it.
Thurston Lava Tube
Thurston lava Tube
Into the Cloud Forest
The cloud forests of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park were alive with the sounds of insects and frogs, dripping fresh from the morning rains. The air was cool and damp, the ground lush and green, and everywhere we looked were native plants and ferns that made the place feel ancient and untouched.
I wanted to share my love for rainforests — my favorite ecosystem — with Indie. We hiked slowly into the forest together, letting her see the massive ferns and moss-covered trunks. Eventually, we came across a giant rainforest tree, likely hundreds of years old, standing long before Captain James Cook arrived in the 1700s.
I showed Indie what I’ve always done with old trees: placing a hand gently on the bark. She pressed her tiny palm against the trunk, connecting with the tree’s mana — its spirit, wisdom, and power. Watching her do that was one of my favorite moments of the trip, a quiet lesson in respect for the natural world.
Cloud Forest of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Cloud Forest of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Indie’s hand on a giant tree, Cloud Forest of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Cloud Forest of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Hike through an area of volcanic devastation
A Birthday Dinner at Volcano House
A Historic Lodge on the Edge of a Volcano
That night we celebrated Indie’s 2nd birthday at the historic Volcano House Restaurant, perched on the rim of Kīlauea’s crater inside Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. The site has hosted travelers for nearly two centuries — the first shelter here was a thatched hut built in 1846 for early visitors to the volcano.
Over time it grew into a lodge that welcomed Hawaiian royalty, including Queen Emma in 1866, and later famous guests such as Mark Twain, who wrote about the volcano’s fiery displays, Amelia Earhart, and Franklin D. Roosevelt. The current stone building, completed in 1941, still preserves that old-world character while offering one of the most dramatic dining views in the world.
Dinner with a View
We sat down to plates of fresh island fish as steam drifted from the crater outside the windows. It was surreal to share a meal in a place where history and geology come together so vividly — fine dining on the edge of one of the world’s most active volcanoes.
Indie’s Birthday Celebration
After dinner, the staff brought out a small cake with candles for Indie. She was thrilled, leaning in to blow them out, but got too close to the flame and I had to catch her hand. Her first try was interrupted, and she burst into tears just as the entire restaurant clapped and sang “Happy Birthday.”
We relit the candles, gave her another chance, and this time she blew them out in one joyful breath, smiling ear to ear as the room cheered again.
A Night to Remember
It wasn’t a grand party — just family, a cake, and a historic hotel on the rim of Kīlauea — but it became one of our most memorable celebrations. Indie’s 2nd birthday was shared in the same place where kings, queens, writers, and presidents once stayed, with the living volcano glowing just beyond the window.
Indie’s 2nd Birthday party at the Volcano House Restaurant
Indie’s 2nd Birthday party at the Volcano House Restaurant
A Final Morning at the Crater
Clear Skies at Last
After a chilly night of camping in our tent at 4,000 feet — cuddling tight with Indie to preserve our body heat — we woke before dawn and made our way back to the crater’s edge. This time, unlike the fog and rain of the day before, the skies were clear.
Moonlight Over Kīlauea
The full moon hovered above the vast smoking crater, casting a silvery glow across the volcanic landscape. It was a surreal sight — the moon hanging over one of Earth’s most active volcanoes, both celestial and earthly forces meeting in one scene.
A Living Landscape
From the overlook, the scale of Kīlauea became clear. On one side, cool mist poured like a waterfall over the crater rim, drifting into the abyss below. On the other, a broad field of fresh, smooth black lava stretched out like a frozen sea, evidence of eruptions not long past.
It was a powerful reminder that this island is still being born, shaped daily by fire, smoke, and stone. Standing there with my family, watching the volcano breathe under the moonlight, felt like the perfect ending to our Big Island journey.
Kīlauea Crater
Kīlauea Crater, Paula, Indie and Tita Fe
Kīlauea Crater-morning cloudfall over the crater edge
Kīlauea Crater
Crossing the Central Highlands
Perfect Weather for the Drive
On our return drive across the central volcanic highlands of the Big Island, the weather was perfect — clear skies and crisp air that revealed sweeping views we had missed before.
Giants of the Pacific
From the road, we could see the immense silhouettes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, the two volcanoes that dominate the island. Their sheer size is hard to comprehend.
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Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain in the world when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its summit, rising more than 33,000 feet in total. Its summit, at 13,803 feet above sea level, is famous for its astronomical observatories and for offering some of the clearest skies on Earth.
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Mauna Loa is the largest mountain on Earth by volume, sprawling across nearly half of the Big Island. Though slightly shorter than Mauna Kea at 13,681 feet, it is still active and has produced some of the island’s most destructive eruptions in recorded history, most recently in 2022.
Awe of the Highlands
Driving between these colossal peaks, it was impossible not to feel small. Few places in the world let you witness mountains of such scale, one renowned for its height and the other for its sheer bulk and volcanic power. It was the perfect last drive of our journey, framed by the twin giants that define Hawaiʻi.
Mauna Loa
Mauna Kea
The Journey Home
Saying Goodbye
Sadly, our trip came to an end. We dropped off the titas, who continued on to Honolulu for the next leg of their adventure, while Paula, Indie, and I prepared for the journey back home.
Indie’s First “Big Kid” Flight
This return flight was a milestone for Indie. At just two years old, she was no longer a lap baby — this was her first paid seat on a plane. For six hours back to San Diego, she sat proudly in her own spot, a small but meaningful step in her young life as a traveler.
Reflections on the Big Island
As the plane lifted off, I thought about how much Hawaii had surprised me. I had once dismissed it as a resort destination, but on this trip I found wild beaches, sacred valleys, rainforests, lava tubes, and the living presence of mighty volcanoes. Most importantly, I found memories with family that will stay with me forever — especially celebrating Indie’s birthday on the edge of the Kīlauea volcano.