Swimming with Giants: Our Journey to Tonga
In September 2017, my wife and I traveled to Tonga, the last Pacific kingdom still ruled by a king, for six days as part of a two-week journey that also included Samoa and New Zealand. Our main goal in Tonga was to swim with humpback whales, a once-in-a-lifetime experience that the country is famous for.
From Whaling to Conservation
Ironically, humpback whales were once heavily hunted in Tonga, their numbers plummeting from thousands to just 50 by the late 1970s. Recognizing the dire situation, the King of Tonga banned whaling in the 1980s, and since then, the whale population has rebounded to nearly 5,000.
Today, Tonga remains the only country in the world where swimming with humpback whales is legal, and when done responsibly, it has become a powerful tool for conservation, helping promote awareness and protection of these gentle giants.
Choosing the Road Less Traveled
Tonga is a vast island nation made up of hundreds of islands, many of which offer whale snorkeling tours. Most visitors head to the busier islands like Vava‘u, but wanting a more secluded and intimate experience, we chose ‘Eua Island—one of the least-visited and most affordable locations for whale encounters.
This decision would lead us to one of the most incredible marine encounters of our lives.
Hundreds of whales migrate between Tongatapu and Eua Island every year. We went to Eua Island to Swim with them
Exploring Tongatapu: The Heart of the Tongan Kingdom
Our journey to Tonga began on its main island, Tongatapu, the most populated island and home to the king. We arrived via a flight from Auckland, New Zealand, timing our visit with the humpback whale migration season.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side—most of our stay was cloudy, windy, and rainy—but we didn’t let that stop us from exploring the island’s natural and cultural wonders.
A Bungalow by the Sea
We stayed at Keleti Beach Guesthouse, located on the southern end of the island. Our bungalow was perched on rugged sea cliffs, overlooking a secluded beach cove. The waves here were massive, crashing violently along the shore, making the beach too dangerous to swim or even walk along for long. But despite the unforgiving ocean, the views from our bungalow were spectacular.
Exploring the Island’s Wonders
To make the most of our time, we hired a taxi to take us around Tongatapu’s most interesting sites.
- The highlight of the day was Anahulu Cave, where we swam in an underground lake and even went cliff jumping inside the cave. The dark cavern, cool waters, and echoing sounds made it feel like we had stepped into a lost world.
- We also visited Tonga’s version of Stonehenge, a massive stone arch built in the 14th century that once housed the king’s throne. Standing before the ancient megalith, I couldn’t help but imagine the centuries of history and ceremony it had witnessed.
Despite the challenging weather, our first days in Tonga set the stage for an unforgettable adventure—one that would soon take us to ‘Eua Island, where we would fulfill our dream of swimming with humpback whales.
Waves crashing over the coral
A brief moment of good weather in between ocean swells that came powering through the little beach cove
A Pricey Mistake at the Ancient Monument
At the ancient stone arch monument, Paula asked me for some Tongan money, and without thinking much of it, I handed her the equivalent of $70 USD. She wandered over to a small souvenir booth run by local women, looking to pick up a few trinkets.
When she returned, she was holding a few necklaces and a shell wristband. At first, I didn’t think much of it—until I realized that she had seriously miscalculated the exchange rate and had been wildly overcharged.
It didn’t take long to connect the dots—the vendor had taken advantage of the situation, aggressively upselling her at an outrageous price.
I wasted no time.
I walked over to the stand and politely but firmly made it clear that I knew exactly what had happened. The vendor, at first dismissive, quickly changed her tone when I mentioned that I was more than happy to involve the police if necessary.
After some tense back-and-forth negotiations, we renegotiated the purchase to a fairer price.
It was a lesson learned—even in a country as laid-back as Tonga, you always have to be mindful when making purchases, especially in tourist-heavy areas.
14th century stone archway that once covered the kings throne-Tongan Stonehenge
Anahulu Cave
Flying to Eua Island
Getting to ‘Eua: The World’s Shortest Flight or a Brutal Ferry Ride
There are two ways to reach ‘Eua Island from Tongatapu:
- A 3-to-6-hour public ferry ride across notoriously rough seas
- The world’s shortest commercial flight—a mere 8-minute journey on a single-engine plane
Without hesitation, we chose the flight.
Though it wasn’t exactly comfortable, it was mercifully quick. Before we even had time to settle into our seats, we were already descending toward ‘Eua.
In hindsight, it was the best decision we could have made. The seas turned out to be rougher than expected, and the ferry was canceled indefinitely. Had we chosen the ferry, we never would have made it to ‘Eua—and we would have missed out on one of the most incredible experiences of our lives.
Our flight
Our Eua Island Guesthouse
Eua Island: A Wild, Untamed Paradise
‘Eua Island is my kind of place—rarely visited by tourists, still wild and pristine, and home to dense rainforests, towering sea cliffs, and traditional Tongan villages. Unlike the more developed islands of Tonga, ‘Eua has a remote, untouched feel that immediately drew me in.
The island is crisscrossed with hiking trails, leading to hidden beaches, jungle waterfalls, and dramatic viewpoints. Though camping is technically forbidden, there are plenty of secluded spots where it would be perfect. Unfortunately, the heavy rains during our trip made it impractical, so even though I brought my tent, we opted for a guesthouse instead.
The Hideaway Guesthouse: A Stay Like No Other
We ended up at Hideaway Guesthouse, run by a Tongan woman who split her time between Tonga and New Zealand. Staying there turned out to be a great decision—we loved it.
The communal outdoor seating area was the heart of the guesthouse, where we ate our meals overlooking the ocean. From our table, we could watch humpback whales breaching in the nearby channel, making for an unreal dining experience.
But the most unique part of Hideaway wasn’t the whales—it was Prince.
Prince: The 300-Pound Boar Who Ruled the Guesthouse
Prince was no ordinary pig—he was a massive, 300-pound, tusked boar that roamed the property and restaurant in search of scraps.
Unlike most pigs in Tonga, which are raised for food, Prince was more like a pet, having fathered dozens of piglets who were also free to wander wherever they pleased. The guesthouse owner tried to keep them out of the restaurant, but Prince, despite his size, always found a way in. He had mastered the art of charming tourists into giving him food, and we were no exception.
Despite his intimidating size, Prince was a big softie who loved being scratched by both Paula and me. But while Prince was harmless, his piglets were another story.
These little opportunistic food thieves had no boundaries.
I quickly learned to fear them more than their giant father—they had a sneaky habit of creeping up and nibbling on our feet before we even realized they were there. Unlike Prince, they were small enough to squeeze through any gap, making them impossible to keep out of the dining area.
But in the end, this quirky, pig-infested guesthouse just made our experience on ‘Eua even more unforgettable.
Me with the giant boar, Prince and his piglets
Paula with Prince and a piglet
Exploring Eua island
Exploring ‘Eua: A Step Back in Time
Our guesthouse was perfectly located—just outside the village, with dirt roads and jungle foot trails leading to nearly every part of the island. Paula and I explored as much as we could on foot, but for the more remote areas, we hired a vehicle and driver through our guesthouse.
One of the things I loved most about ‘Eua was that it wasn’t dependent on tourism. Unlike many other Pacific islands, where resorts dominate the landscape, ‘Eua remained untouched and authentic. The people here lived off fishing and farming, maintaining their traditional ways of life. Despite their simple, self-sufficient lifestyle, they were incredibly welcoming and always happy to share their culture.
The Ta‘ovala: A Symbol of Tongan Identity
One of the most distinctive aspects of Tongan culture was the ta‘ovala—a woven laufala mat worn around the waist and secured with kafa, a braided coconut fiber cord.
We noticed that many older villagers and students wore it as daily attire, but on Sundays, nearly everyone—men and women alike—wore the traditional mat to church.
Curious about its origins, I asked a Tongan woman at our guesthouse about the tradition, and she shared a fascinating legend:
The Legend of the Ta‘ovala
Centuries ago, a European ship wrecked on one of the Tongan islands. The surviving crew was summoned by the king, but their clothing was in tatters—unfit for an audience with royalty.
Desperate to appear more respectable, the sailors tore strips of sail rope from their ship and wrapped them around their waists before presenting themselves to the king.
Rather than being offended by their improvised attire, the king admired the look and adopted the style himself. Soon, the rest of the island followed suit, and over time, the ta‘ovala became a deeply rooted part of Tongan tradition.
Hearing this story made me appreciate the culture even more—it was a perfect example of how history, legend, and identity are intertwined in Tonga.
Schoolchildren with ta‘ovala mat uniform
A Tongan family relaxing on the porch of their home. The mother is wearing a ta‘ovala mat.
A Sunday Like No Other: Worship in ‘Eua
Paula and I fell in love with ‘Eua Island, but one of our favorite experiences was attending a Sunday morning church service.
It’s true—everything in Tonga shuts down on Sundays. No businesses operate, no one works, and even at our guesthouse, restaurant service was extremely limited. Tongans take God’s day of rest very seriously, and we wanted to embrace the culture rather than fight it.
A Chapel Filled with Song
We attended a small wooden chapel with open windows, letting in the warm tropical air. The congregation, dressed in their finest clothes and traditional ta‘ovala mats, gathered inside for worship.
The highlight of the service, without a doubt, was the hymns.
I’ve always loved the church hymns of the South Pacific—they have a distinct, powerful harmony that is completely unique to the region. But hearing them in person, in a tiny island chapel, was overwhelming in the best way.
As the voices of the congregation rose in perfect harmony, I felt completely immersed in the moment. There were no instruments, no microphones—just pure, powerful voices.
It was one of those rare travel moments that stirs something deep inside you, a reminder that some of the most meaningful experiences are found in the simplest places.
Graveyard
Swimming beach we hiked to when the rain stopped
Tongan girls
Exploring the Wild Side of ‘Eua: Hiking Through Untouched Jungle
‘Eua Island is a hiker’s paradise, with dense jungle, dramatic cliffs, and hidden trails—especially on its wild western side. This part of the island felt completely untouched, rugged, and remote, the kind of place that few travelers ever set foot in.
We spent time hiking through the thick rainforest, following narrow, overgrown trails that wound through towering trees, tangled vines, and dramatic coastal cliffs. The deeper we went, the more I felt like we had stepped into another world—one completely untouched by time.
A Place I Could Have Stayed Forever
With so many hidden paths, caves, and viewpoints, I knew I could have easily spent days exploring and camping here. The jungle was alive with the sounds of birds and rustling leaves, and the lack of crowds made it feel like a secret waiting to be discovered.
Unfortunately, heavy rain and the logistics of our trip kept me from camping—but this part of the island left a lasting impression. It was the kind of place that makes you dream about returning, just to see what else is hidden in its depths.
Exploring the highland jungles
Our driver climbing into a pit
Spider
100′ rainforest pit
Hiking ‘Eua’s Wild Sea Cliffs
We hiked along towering sea cliffs, facing the vast, open ocean. The waves crashed violently against the jagged rocks below, sending plumes of white spray into the air. The wind howled around us, adding to the feeling that we were on the edge of the world.
Despite the fierce elements, the views were absolutely breathtaking—rugged cliffs, endless blue ocean, and not another soul in sight.
A Wild Encounter
As we continued along the cliffs, we stumbled upon a majestic herd of wild horses, grazing peacefully on the grass. They paid little attention to us, used to the isolation of their home, but their presence only added to the untouched beauty of the landscape.
It was one of those moments that felt straight out of a dream—standing on the windswept cliffs, surrounded by the raw power of nature, with wild horses roaming freely nearby.
It was yet another reason why ‘Eua felt so special—untamed, undiscovered, and completely unforgettable.
Lokupo cliffs
Natural archway
Wild horses
Swimming with Humpback Whales
Swimming with Giants: Our Unforgettable Whale Encounters
Paula and I booked two day trips to swim with humpback whales, choosing to go with a local fisherman named Kiki. He was a kind, quiet man who spoke very little English, but his understanding of the ocean, tourists, and whales was unmatched.
On our first day, Kiki took us out in a small skiff with his young son as the only crew member. He provided wetsuits and life jackets, and we set off into the rough waters of the channel.
The ride was wet and wild—waves frequently lapped over the sides of the boat, soaking us as we scanned the horizon for whales.
A World Full of Whales
At first, spotting the whales was difficult—low-hanging clouds obscured the water spouts that normally revealed their locations. But soon, we realized it didn’t even matter.
There were whales everywhere. Some were breaching fully out of the water, their massive bodies crashing back into the sea with a thunderous splash.
As expected, we had them mostly to ourselves. There was no aggressive chasing or harassment. Instead, Kiki carefully positioned the boat ahead of their path, then gently dropped us into the water before pulling the skiff away.
We floated in the open ocean, snorkeling in anticipation, waiting for the whales to glide past.
An Overwhelming, Otherworldly Encounter
Snorkeling in the rough waves was challenging—water sloshed into our snorkels, and Paula struggled to breathe. The deep blue abyss beneath us felt endless, both mesmerizing and intimidating.
Kiki casually mentioned that he had occasionally seen tiger sharks in these waters, which kept me on high alert. The ocean’s bottom was nowhere in sight, so I kept Paula close, constantly scanning in all directions while gripping my GoPro stick as a makeshift deterrent—just in case.
Then, in a moment I will never forget, we laid eyes on our first humpback whale underwater.
Their grace beneath the surface was breathtaking—they moved with a slow, effortless ballet, their massive fins barely needed to propel them forward. Every few minutes, they glided to the surface for a breath, sometimes lingering to observe us before vanishing again into the dark abyss with a few powerful strokes.
A Close Call
Over two days, we swam with the whales at least a dozen times.
On one particularly close encounter, I found myself within 10 feet of a mother and her calf.
For a brief second, I thought they were going to collide with me, their sheer size overwhelming in the water. But at the last moment, they effortlessly veered in the opposite direction, disappearing into the deep.
A Spiritual Experience
Swimming with these gentle giants was more than just an adventure—it was almost a spiritual experience.
There are few moments in life that make you feel so small yet so connected to something greater.
For Paula and me, this was one of those moments—an experience we will carry with us forever.
Kiki
whale closer to shore
Whale fluke
Whale fin
Our Final Day with the Whales: A Private Encounter in the Storm
Our last day snorkeling with the whales turned out to be the most unforgettable yet.
The seas were rough, rain poured down, and there wasn’t another boat in sight. This time, Kiki’s son wasn’t with us, and instead of dropping a group into the water, Kiki would release just Paula and me—alone with the whales.
Completely Alone in the Open Ocean
The experience felt even more intimate, yet at times, intimidating.
Floating in the vast, churning ocean, just the two of us, knowing that enormous creatures were lurking beneath us, was both exhilarating and humbling.
There was a moment when nothing but the sound of rain and waves surrounded us, and then, out of the deep blue, a massive humpback slowly emerged, gliding effortlessly toward us.
The whale seemed even more curious than before, lingering just long enough to make eye contact, as if acknowledging our presence. It was a moment of pure connection, one that words fail to capture.
A Final, Unforgettable Goodbye
As the rain continued to pelt the ocean’s surface, we watched the whales disappear once more into the deep, their powerful tails slicing through the water.
Even though we didn’t want it to end, we knew this was the perfect farewell—one final, breathtaking moment with these incredible giants, in their world, completely on their terms.
It was a raw, wild, and humbling experience—the kind that leaves an imprint on your soul forever.
Nearby whale 10′ away
Mother and baby
Whale encounter
Video of our whale encounters
Whale diving after breaching out of the water right in front of me
A Lucky Escape from ‘Eua
On the day of our departure, we learned that the ferry had been canceled and that all flights were fully booked for the next several days.
We were relieved that we had secured our tickets weeks in advance—otherwise, we would have been stranded indefinitely on the island.
That evening, we flew back to Tongatapu, spent one final night on the main island, and the next morning, we continued our journey to Fiji before finally heading home to San Diego.
Our time in Tonga had been nothing short of incredible—a mix of wild landscapes, rich traditions, and intimate encounters with some of the most majestic creatures on Earth.