Swimming with Beluga Whales While Trying to Avoid Being Eaten by Polar Bears in Churchill, Canada

In Search of the Beluga Whale

A Childhood Fascination That Never Left Me

One of the biggest motivators behind my travels has always been my desire to see wild animals—especially those I’ve been drawn to since childhood. That passion often leads me to some of the most remote and untouched places on Earth, and in this case, it led me to Churchill, Canada, in pursuit of one of my all-time favorites: the Beluga whale.

Growing up in Minnesota, I saw Belugas on school field trips to the Minnesota Zoo. I was instantly captivated by them. There was something magical and oddly human about these smiling white whales:

• Their gentle, curious nature

• Their playful behavior

• Their shiny, white, almost alien-like bodies

Even as a kid, I remember standing by the glass, imagining what it would be like to see them in the wild—free and thriving in the Arctic waters where they belong.

Churchill, Canada

Arctic Wildlife, Historic Roots

To see Belugas in the wild, few places are better than Churchill, a small, isolated town on the shores of Hudson Bay. Reaching it isn’t easy—it’s only accessible by plane or train—but that remoteness is part of the appeal.

Churchill’s history adds an extra layer of intrigue:

• Founded by the Hudson Bay Company as a fur trading post in the 1600s

• Played a strategic role during the Cold War as a missile detection site

• Now known more for its wildlife—especially polar bears and Beluga whales

Despite its military past, Churchill today is best known as a gateway to Arctic beauty, where each summer, thousands of Belugas migrate into the estuaries, creating a spectacle that’s both surreal and humbling.

Location of Churchill, Manitoba

The Belugas of Churchill

Arctic Whales With Personality

Every summer, thousands of Beluga whales migrate from Hudson Bay into the Churchill River, drawn by its warmer, shallow estuary waters—a perfect nursery for mating and giving birth.

But what makes Churchill truly unique isn’t just the number of whales—it’s their personality.

Belugas are famously:

• Friendly and curious

• Known to approach kayakers and snorkelers

• Playful enough to chase boats or gently bump into them

That kind of intimacy is incredibly rare in the wild. In Churchill, you’re not just watching these animals—you’re interacting with them, often from just a few feet away.

They’re also called the “canaries of the sea” thanks to their extremely vocal nature. Belugas communicate with a wide range of clicks, chirps, and whistles, and they navigate in murky Arctic waters using echolocation. Their oversized, bulbous heads—known as melons—allow them to focus sound waves, making them some of the most acoustically sophisticated marine mammals on the planet.

More Than Just Belugas

Churchill’s Other Iconic Visitor: The Polar Bear

While Churchill is world-renowned for its summer Beluga whale migration, it’s also one of the best places on Earth to observe Polar Bears in the wild.

Every September and October, hundreds of Polar Bears gather along the shores of Hudson Bay, just outside of town. They’re waiting for the bay to freeze over, marking the start of the hunting season when they can head out onto the ice in search of seals—their primary food source.

My First Polar Bear Encounter

October 2009: A Day Trip Into the Arctic Tundra

This trip to Churchill marked my second visit. My first time was in October 2009, when I joined a day-long expedition from Winnipeg specifically to see the Polar Bears.

• It was a long and expensive journey, but absolutely worth it.

• I boarded a massive 4WD tundra buggy, specially designed for Arctic terrain.

• The vehicle had a rear viewing platform, allowing safe observation of the bears up close.

From the safety of the tundra buggy, I saw numerous Polar Bears—some lounging in the snow, others wandering across the tundra with that slow, powerful gait that only a bear possesses. It was a bucket-list wildlife experience—and one that first put Churchill on the map for me.

Photo I Took from My 1st Visit of a Polar Bear outside of Churchil, Manitoba

Reaching the Edge of the Arctic

Getting to Churchill, Canada

Churchill is a remote frontier town perched on the southern edge of the Arctic wilderness. Its isolation is part of what makes it so magical—and so challenging to reach. There are no roads connecting Churchill to the rest of Canada.

Getting there requires commitment:

• A 2-hour turboprop flight from Winnipeg via Calm Air

• Or a grueling 45-hour train journey from Winnipeg

• That trip can be shortened to 12 hours by driving 500 miles north to Thompson and boarding the train from there

• In summer, two cargo ships make supply runs to Churchill when the northern sea routes are ice-free

On both of my trips to Churchill, I chose the faster option: flying Calm Air from Winnipeg. It’s a small plane with big views—gliding over endless boreal forest and tundra until the gray expanse of Hudson Bay comes into view, signaling your arrival at one of the most remote settlements in North America.

Downtown Winnipeg

A Necessary Stopover in Winnipeg

Gateway to Churchill and the Canadian North

Due to the limited flight schedules, traveling to Churchill almost always requires an overnight stay in Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba. Far from just a transit point, Winnipeg is a historically rich city nestled between the northern prairies and the vast boreal forest.

Once a thriving hub due to its strategic location along the transcontinental railway, Winnipeg saw its fortunes decline as cities like Toronto and Vancouver took center stage in Canada’s economy. With the fall of railway dominance, Winnipeg faded into relative economic neglect and has since earned a reputation as one of Canada’s more dangerous cities.

A City of Contrasts

Grit, Charm, and Quiet Revival

Yes, I saw some of that reputation in action. There were homeless encampments, and in one instance, a man openly using drugs in broad daylight. But despite this, I never felt unsafe—day or night—walking the streets.

The Winnipeg I experienced felt like a city in quiet recovery:

• Signs of revitalization were everywhere—new construction, trendy cafes, and independent restaurants filling out the historic downtown

• The old brick buildings, many repurposed, give the city a sense of character and resilience

• With its scenic riverside paths, affordable charm, and laid-back energy, Winnipeg is actually a great place to unwind for a few days before launching into the Arctic

It may not be a typical tourist city, but Winnipeg left an impression—a place defined as much by its past as by its potential future.

Life on the Edge of the Wild

Churchill’s History, Culture, and Challenges

Contrary to what many might assume, Churchill is not named after Winston Churchill, the famed British Prime Minister. The town actually takes its name from John Churchill, a 17th-century governor of the Hudson Bay Company, one of the oldest commercial enterprises in North America.

Today, this tiny frontier town—home to about 800 residents—sits perched between the boreal forest and Arctic tundra, accessible only by plane, train, or seasonal ship. Roughly two-thirds of the population is Indigenous, including Inuit and other First Nations groups. One tribe was forcefully relocated here in the 1960s from their ancestral homeland in the boreal forests to the south.

Like many remote northern communities, Churchill faces serious challenges:

• High unemployment

• Persistent struggles with alcoholism, especially among displaced and underserved Indigenous populations

A Town That Runs on Wildlife

Tourism, Seasons, and Survival

Despite its hardships, Churchill survives—and even thrives—on seasonal tourism. Almost everyone in town works during the tourist season, which runs from June to November:

• Summer brings the migration of Beluga whales, drawing whale watchers, kayakers, and snorkelers.

• Autumn is prime time for Polar Bear tourism, as hundreds of bears gather along Hudson Bay waiting for the sea ice to form.

Living With Polar Bears

Coexistence and Caution in the World’s Bear Capital

Churchill lies directly along a major Polar Bear migration route, which makes human-bear conflict a serious and ongoing risk. These aren’t ordinary animals—Polar Bears are the world’s largest land predators, and they are one of the few species known to actively hunt humans.

The town takes the threat seriously and has developed a robust bear safety protocol:

• Daily bear patrols

• A 10 p.m. voluntary curfew, signaled by a horn each night

• Bear-proof garbage cans installed throughout town

• Warning signs posted at every major junction

Perhaps the most unique measure is the town’s “Polar Bear jail”—a holding facility for so-called “nuisance bears.” Captured bears are:

• Held for up to 30 days

• Given only water to make the experience unpleasant, discouraging repeat visits

• Eventually airlifted by helicopter and released 30 miles away into the wild

These efforts have largely worked. There hasn’t been a serious incident since 2017, when a young woman walking home from a bar was mauled by a Polar Bear. The attack ended only after locals intervened—hitting the bear with a shovel, shooting it, and eventually ramming it with a truck. The woman survived but had to be airlifted to Winnipeg for emergency care.

Life in Churchill

A Peaceful Town on the Edge of the Wild

Despite its remote location and the ever-present risk of polar bear encounters, Churchill is a peaceful and beautiful town with plenty to offer. We were fortunate to have three days of sunny, warm weather, which we used to explore the area on foot and soak in the unique Arctic atmosphere.

Staying at the Lazy Bear Lodge

Rustic Charm and Friendly Faces

Our base was the Lazy Bear Lodge, a cozy log cabin-style retreat that perfectly matched the tundra surroundings. The rooms were warm and inviting, the food surprisingly good, and the staff genuinely welcoming. True to Churchill’s character, the lodge featured plenty of mounted polar bears, giving it a quirky and local flair.

Exploring the Town

Small, Walkable, and Full of Character

Churchill is small—you can walk across it in about an hour—but it makes an impression. We walked the sandy beach along Hudson Bay, followed the shoreline of the Churchill River, and wandered through quiet neighborhoods, always staying alert for wildlife.

In town, we stopped by the grocery store for supplies and popped into a local bar where slot machines blinked next to a pool table. It was the kind of place where locals and visitors alike gathered, giving Churchill a friendly, frontier-town vibe that felt as real as it was remote.

Paula in our room overlooking the Churchil River in the distance. According to one staff member wolves were seen outside of the lodge in view of our window just a week before our visit. 

Inukshuks on the Shore

Ancient Arctic Signposts

While walking along the beach of Hudson Bay, we came across several Inuit stone man rock formations, known as Inukshuks. These traditional stone structures have long been used by the Inuit people as navigation markers, helping travelers find their way across vast, featureless Arctic landscapes. They also served as signals to mark important locations—sometimes to guide friends, and other times to warn enemies to stay away. Seeing them standing stoically against the wind and surf was a powerful reminder of the deep Indigenous history and resilience tied to this land.

Inuit Stoneman Rock Formation on Hudson Bay

Unexpected Moments of Culture

Witnessing Private Tribal Ceremonies

On two separate occasions while walking around Churchill, we were pleasantly surprised to come across tribal ceremonies taking place in open areas of town. What made these moments truly special was that they were clearly not performed for tourists or for any commercial purpose—they were personal, community-centered gatherings held by and for the local Indigenous people.

I never found out the exact significance of the ceremonies, and I made a conscious choice not to linger too long. The atmosphere felt sacred, and it was clear these were private moments of cultural expression, not public performances. Still, catching even a glimpse of these ceremonies was a quiet privilege, a reminder of the living traditions that continue to shape Churchill beneath the surface of seasonal tourism.

A tribal ceremony

Churchil Government Housing at 10pm

A pioneer cabin that lays in ruins outside of Churchil

A World War II era cargo plane that crashed in 1979 because it was overloaded.

Paula in front of an old log cabin on the river

A Fortress Lost to Ice

When the Arctic Reminds You Who’s in Charge

One of the stops we were hoping to make during our time in Churchill was a visit to the historic Hudson Bay Company fortress, built in the 1700s during the fur trade wars between the British and French. The site is a powerful relic of colonial competition and the early commercial history that shaped northern Canada.

Unfortunately, nature had other plans. A large ice floe blocked the channel, making it impossible for boats to reach the site. It was a disappointing reminder that in the far north, the environment still dictates the itinerary—and even in summer, the Arctic can quickly reclaim its grip.

Hudson Bay Fort Built in 1700s by the British-where the French and British fought multiple battles for control of the northern fur trade

An old grain handling facility where grain is sorted and loaded from train to boat. The facility was abandoned and recently purchased by a new owner.

A Warm Welcome from the Arctic

Early Summer in Churchill—and Our First Encounter With the Belugas

We arrived in late June to a sunny and unseasonably warm Churchill, with temperatures in the high 50s°F (~14°C). For a region better known for icy winds and polar extremes, this was as good as it gets. Even better, summer was still young, and we had just missed the worst of the mosquitoes—a notorious nuisance later in the season.

A Town Waking Up

The First Tourists of the Season

Being some of the first tourists of the season, we had Churchill mostly to ourselves. The town, which heavily depends on eco-tourism, was just starting to come to life. Restaurants, lodges, and tour operators were opening their doors, and locals were preparing for the busy months ahead.

• Few tourists meant quieter excursions and more personal interactions

• We could feel the anticipation and energy of a place ready to welcome back the outside world

First Glimpse of the Belugas

A Zodiac Cruise on the Churchill River

To take full advantage of the rare good weather, we booked a zodiac boat cruise on the Churchill River—our first chance to see Beluga whales in the wild.

The experience was magical. As we zipped across the calm waters, we began spotting the iconic white shapes below the surface. Moments later, they surrounded our boat—dozens of Belugas, surfacing, chirping, and even trailing behind us with curiosity. They felt more like playful companions than distant wildlife.

Into the Water

Kayaking and Snorkeling With the Whales

The next day, we opted for a more intimate experience—kayaking and snorkeling alongside the Belugas. While kayaking offered close encounters at the surface, the real highlight was snorkeling.

• We were towed behind a zodiac on a foam board, silently gliding through the water

• Belugas swam underneath and beside us, their high-pitched calls echoing through the Arctic water

• It was surreal—as if they were singing directly to us

Being in the water with such gentle, intelligent creatures was one of the most powerful wildlife encounters of my life.

Ice Sheets on Churchil River with the towering walls of ice in the background formed along the Hudson Bay

The Ice Breaks—and the Belugas Arrive

A Front-Row Seat to the Start of the Migration

We soon discovered that our timing had been even luckier than we realized—the Belugas had just started arriving that very week.

A recent windstorm over northern Hudson Bay had blown towering sheets of sea ice southward, piling them up along the shoreline and temporarily blocking the inlet to the Churchill River. But somehow, the whales had still found a way in.

As we cruised out onto the water, we were greeted by a breathtaking sight:

• Hundreds of Beluga spouts misting into the air all along the river

• Whales everywhere, their pale bodies cutting through the surface

• Groups of Belugas swimming beside our Zodiac, playing in the wake like underwater dolphins

Beluga Behaviors Up Close

Mothers, Calves, and Bubble Nets

We watched mothers with their calves, gently gliding alongside one another, and pods of massive adult males, likely hunting together. Belugas don’t have large teeth—instead, they swallow their prey whole, mostly fish. To help them hunt:

• Belugas use a unique strategy called bubble netting

• Groups work together to surround and trap fish, cornering them by blowing walls of bubbles

It was fascinating to observe, even from the surface.

The color contrast was striking:

• Adults were a brilliant white, glowing beneath the water like polished ice

• Juveniles were gray, a natural camouflage

• Within their first year of life, young Belugas begin to lose their gray coloring as they develop the species’ signature white pigmentation

Seeing so many Belugas—mothers, babies, and entire pods—all in one place made it clear why Churchill is one of the best Beluga-viewing spots on Earth.

Paula and I in a tandem kayak

Kayaking With Belugas

A Front-Row Seat to Their Playful Curiosity

Of all our wildlife experiences in Churchill, kayaking with the Belugas was by far my favorite. Paula and I shared a tandem kayak, and for nearly three hours, we paddled through the Churchill River surrounded by whales. It wasn’t just a sighting—it was a constant, interactive encounter.

Though the water’s visibility was poor—tinted dark by tannins from spring runoff—we could still hear and feel the whales around us. We later learned that August offers better underwater visibility, but even in June, the experience was unforgettable.

Singing to the Whales

And Other Ways to Make Friends

We’d been told that Belugas are attracted to movement, especially from kayak rudders, and to high-pitched sounds. So, naturally, Paula began singing the children’s song “Baby Beluga” in hopes of drawing them in.

Did it work? Hard to say—the whales were already everywhere, but it definitely added to the fun. We noticed the younger, gray Belugas were the most curious and playful, while the larger white adults seemed more focused on mating or competing for mates, gliding by with less interest in us.

Belugas in Action

Curious Encounters and GoPro Mischief

Some of the whales came so close, it felt like they were inspecting us:

• A Beluga floated upside down beneath our kayak, blowing a stream of bubbles at us

• One bumped into our kayak gently

• Another slapped our friend’s kayak with its tail

• I dragged my GoPro in the water, and a young Beluga tried to swallow it—a moment I luckily caught on video

One particularly curious whale stayed beside our kayak for a long time. As I rested my hand in the water, it brushed up against me, a soft and unexpected connection I’ll never forget.

Beluga Group

Young Beluga Fluke

Pod of Belugas

The foam board pulled by the Zodiac that we snorkeled with the Belugas from 

Open mouth of Beluga that tried to eat my Gopro

baby beluga

beluga I saw snorkeling

beluga I saw snorkeling

Singing Friendly Beluga Who Visited me Underwater  

A Shipwreck on the Tundra

Hiking to the Ithaca at Low Tide

On the morning of our last full day in Churchill, we set out for one final adventure—a hike to the wreck of the Ithaca, a rusting cargo ship stranded offshore since the 1970s. It’s one of the region’s most haunting and photogenic relics.

We drove 20 miles outside of town on a dirt road, deeper into the Arctic wilderness. Due to the risk of polar bear encounters, our guide brought along a rifle, a reminder that in Churchill, even a short hike requires real caution.

Crossing the Bay on Foot

Icebergs, Sea Rocks, and a Forgotten Vessel

Reaching the wreck required timing our hike with the low tide, when the sea floor briefly becomes walkable. From the road, we hiked a mile across the exposed Hudson Bay seabed, navigating over:

• Icebergs stranded on the mudflats

• Slippery sea rocks and patches of seaweed

• Frigid wind sweeping across the open bay

Then, rising out of the fog and water, stood the Ithaca.

The Ghost of a Storm

A Shipwreck Frozen in Time

The Ithaca was a 1920s-era steel cargo ship that met its end during a fierce storm in the 1970s. Though the crew safely evacuated, the ship itself was a total loss, and it has remained lodged in the shallows ever since—a hulking, rust-stained skeleton with its bow pointed inland, as if forever trying to make it back to shore.

It was eerie and beautiful, standing in the middle of the tidal flats with nothing but Arctic silence around us, except for the crunch of ice underfoot.

Hudson Bay Shoreline

Cold War Remnants

Exploring a Forgotten NATO Radar Site

Just before the turnoff to the Ithaca shipwreck, we stopped at an abandoned NATO early-warning radar station—a Cold War relic once used to detect potential Soviet missile threats.

After scanning the area for polar bears, we cautiously climbed the rusted ladder to the top. The old radar dome still stood, weathered by time and Arctic winds.

From the top, we looked out over the vast tundra—a hauntingly quiet place once on high alert for nuclear war. Now it’s just another ghost of history slowly being reclaimed by the north.

Cold War Era NATO Nuclear Missile Radar detection Site

Radar Site

Walking to the Ithaca

Ice, Tides, and Caution in Polar Bear Country

Reaching the Ithaca shipwreck is only possible at low tide. From the dirt road, we hiked about a mile across tidal pools, weaving around stranded icebergs and slick sea rocks.

Our guide carried a rifle in case of a polar bear encounter, and we stayed close together, both for safety and to appear more intimidating to any curious predator.

Thankfully, we saw no bears—only a pair of Canadian geese, who startled at our presence and flew off, abandoning their young. In their confusion, the goslings ran straight toward us, unsure of where to go. It was a brief but surreal wildlife moment amid the stark Arctic silence.

Canadian Geese Ducklings

Stranded Ice Bergs

Wreck of Ithaca

Wreck of Ithaca

Wreck of Ithaca

Wreck of Ithaca

Wreck of Ithaca