March 2023: As part of a larger multi-country trip on our babymoon, Paula and I spent four days on Tarawa, a remote island in the Pacific that witnessed one of the fiercest WWII battles. Tarawa’s landscape still holds numerous relics from the battle, including bunkers, rusted tanks, and submerged warships, giving the island a haunting historical weight. Our goal was twofold: to connect with the local community and understand what life is like for the people of Tarawa, and to learn more about the tragic events that took place here during the war. This is the story of our time on Tarawa.
About Tarawa
Location of Tarawa
Tarawa is a small, low-lying island in the Gilbert Islands chain, which itself is just one part of the vast archipelago nation of Kiribati. This equatorial nation stretches across thousands of miles of the Pacific Ocean, yet Tarawa remains its most populated island, with around 100,000 residents, most of whom are concentrated in Betio, the southern part of the island. Betio was also the site of one of WWII’s most brutal battles. Japanese Admiral Keiji Shibasaki once boasted that the U.S. could not capture Tarawa with a million men in 100 years, but he was wrong. In just 72 hours, the Battle of Tarawa claimed the lives of 1,000 U.S. Marines and Navy personnel and 5,000 Japanese soldiers, with only 17 Japanese survivors. Today, reminders of this brutal conflict remain all over Betio. Children play on beached tanks at low tide, machine gun nests overlook volleyball courts, and homes are built atop concrete bunkers. Live ordnance and the remains of fallen soldiers are still occasionally unearthed beneath people’s homes, bearing silent witness to the cruelty of war.
Impressions of Tarawa
Our visit to Tarawa started a week earlier than planned after a canceled flight from Nauru to Fiji forced us to reroute. By adjusting our Nauru Airlines flight, we flew into Tarawa in just an hour, salvaging our travel plans. We arrived on a lively Friday night, and our hotel, Betio Lodge, picked us up from the airport, giving us a glimpse of Tarawa as we made our way to the hotel. It happened to be payday for many residents, and the main road was crowded with people celebrating, which slowed the drive even further due to constant speed bumps. Right away, I noticed the evidence of poverty in Tarawa—the run-down houses, piles of garbage, and rusting, abandoned cars. I had been warned of issues with alcohol abuse and related violence and drunk driving, as well as the presence of aggressive stray dog packs. For these reasons, we were advised not to walk around Betio at night.
I chose Betio Lodge because it was right in the heart of the area affected by WWII, within walking distance of historical war relics. The next morning, eager to explore, we ventured out, only to be immediately drenched in sweat from the intense equatorial heat. Intermittent downpours had filled the dirt streets with puddles, and stray dogs, garbage, and human and animal waste littered the area. Houses were a patchwork of materials—some with thatch roofs alongside pieces of metal and recycled junk, even incorporating WWII relics. One house had a fence made from tank tracks, while others were built on Japanese concrete bunkers now repurposed for storage. Many homes had open walls to allow ventilation in the sweltering heat. In the lagoon, abandoned rusting ships lay scattered, with children playing on top while residents without plumbing waded into waist-deep water to relieve themselves. Despite my best efforts to avoid it, I accidentally stepped in human waste, leading to an hour spent thoroughly sanitizing my flip-flops.
Abandoned Ships
As Paula and I explored Betio, we encountered friendly locals eager to chat and share stories. It didn’t take long to stumble upon WWII relics, with the most striking being an American Sherman tank half-buried in the beach sand. At low tide, the tank was fully exposed, and we watched as a child played atop it, a surreal contrast to the bloody history of that very spot. I tried to imagine the horrific battle that must have unfolded here, picturing American soldiers who likely lost their lives in that tank—a deadly machine now serving as a playground.
Remnants of WWII were woven into the daily lives of the people here: tanks, rusting artillery, and concrete bunkers mingled with homes and playgrounds. Before visiting, I’d wondered how Betio’s residents might feel living on a land marked by so much bloodshed, with soldiers still lying in unmarked graves beneath their homes. Yet, after seeing Betio firsthand, I realized they’ve managed to distance themselves from its grim past. They’re focused on surviving amid the encroaching threats of rising sea levels and beach erosion, making the most of every inch of dry land left in Tarawa. For them, life moves forward despite the weight of history underfoot.
American Sherman Tank
Kid walking along beach with abandoned ships in background
Kid playong on a Japanese WWII Ship
Tracks from a landing boat and a Sherman tank in the background at low tide
Young Tarawa girl on beach
WWII Guns Next to the Volleyball Court
WWII Guns
The poverty, trash, and human and dog waste that littered the streets and beaches of Betio were disheartening to witness. The lack of plumbing meant many people had no choice but to relieve themselves in the water, a stark reminder of the island’s infrastructural challenges. As I took a photo of Paula, a man urinated openly on the beach just behind me, a moment that highlighted the harsh reality of daily life in this part of Tarawa. The beaches of Betio, with their polluted waters and lack of sanitation, were far from the idyllic destinations many tourists might envision. If there were any tourists here, it was clear they wouldn’t be spending their time swimming or relaxing on these shores.
Paula near one of the big guns
We did enjoy the people of Tarawa, who were quick to exchange a smile and always friendly when we met them on the streets. At one point, seeking relief from the unbearable sun, we walked into a tent encampment where a group of 30-40 people, along with their children, were relaxing in the shade. We took a seat on an empty chair, and soon, a group of young girls approached us, giggling with curiosity. Their parents explained that the gathering was a memorial celebration for the family’s great-grandfather. Though we felt bad for intruding, the family insisted we stay as long as we liked, making us feel welcome despite our unexpected appearance. It was a touching reminder of the kindness and warmth of the people, even in such challenging circumstances.
Girls we became friends with at a families get together we stumbled across.
WWII Gun
Many of the WWII ruins in Betio are abandoned, with modern life gradually encroaching upon them. One striking example is the Japanese headquarters building, where commanders of the Imperial Navy were bombed and killed. Today, this historic site is surrounded by a fence marking the grounds of a Mormon school. It’s a stark contrast—a place of intense historical significance now bordered by the everyday reality of life on Tarawa.
Japanese Command Structure Where Generals Were Killed
Most of the WWII bunkers in Betio doubled as public toilets, making them too disgusting to explore. However, there was one building that piqued my interest—a structure once used by the Japanese to store power equipment. Now in ruins, it stands near a police station. The police have repurposed it to store old WWII munitions, including grenades and explosives that locals find in their yards. While most of these devices are likely harmless after so many years of corrosion, some may still pose a risk, with the potential to explode just by touch. There are no safeguards in place, and the building is completely open, allowing anyone to walk inside.
When we arrived, the police were grilling and drinking beers nearby, while an intoxicated woman screamed from the prison cell just a few feet away, her cries echoing through the air like something from The Exorcist. Despite the strange and unsettling scene, we decided to take a look inside the building. We carefully navigated around the explosives scattered haphazardly across the floor, trying to avoid any potential danger. After a few minutes, one of the officers ducked his head in and casually informed Paula that she was standing on top of a grenade. That was enough for us. We quickly decided it was time to leave.
Me looking at WWII Munitions in a Japanese Bunker
Japanese Grenades
The warmth and friendliness of the people in Betio were truly remarkable. We could casually walk up to the homes of locals, many of whom had incorporated Japanese bunkers into their living spaces. One family, in particular, giggled playfully as I took their photo. The father of the house warmly shook my hand and welcomed us. It was clear that the people of Tarawa hold Americans, especially the older Marines who liberated them from Japanese occupation during WWII, in high regard. This deep sense of gratitude and respect toward the U.S. was evident everywhere we went, and it made our visit to the island even more meaningful.
Family Living on a Japanese Bunker
Family leaving in top of a Japanese Bunker
Paula in front of a Memorial
On our last full day in Tarawa, Paula and I decided to explore the more rural parts of the island, so we hired a local from Betio to drive us to North Tarawa. Since there were no rental cars available at the hotel, the man—a friend of the Betio Lodge—borrowed a car from a friend to take us on the journey. As we drove away from Betio, the island became noticeably less congested. The beaches grew more beautiful, and the homes and yards began to take on a more traditional, rustic feel.
To reach North Tarawa, there are two options: you can either take a small boat at high tide or walk across the water at low tide, which is knee-deep. We opted to walk, crossing the channel with locals who were making the journey by foot and motorbike. Once in North Tarawa, the pace of life slowed even further. There were fewer vehicles, and the people led a much simpler, traditional lifestyle.
During our visit, we were welcomed by a local family who prepared coconuts for us and shared some of their traditions. It was a unique opportunity to witness how they live off the land and maintain their cultural practices. For lunch, we enjoyed a delicious coconut curry fish dish at a small hotel with rustic overwater bungalows. The peaceful atmosphere of North Tarawa was a stark contrast to the more densely populated Betio, and it was a fitting way to end our trip.
American marine Built Bridge Connecting tarawa Islands
Kids playing in the ocean
Crossing at low tide to North tarawa Island to visit villages and eat sea food
Tarawan Residents Crossing atlow tide to North Tarawa
Typical Village House
Visiting a Village Family
Visiting a Village Family
Poormans Abovewater Bungalows-low tide
At the end of our trip in Tarawa, we boarded a 3-hour flight on a Boeing Max 8 with Fiji Airways to continue our journey to Fiji. From there, we would catch our connecting flight to Tuvalu, marking the next destination in our adventure. The flight was smooth, and we were excited for what awaited us in Fiji and beyond.