Singapore: Gateway to the Sumatran Wilderness

A Strategic and Comfortable Transit Point

September 2008: To reach Sumatra, Tim and I used Singapore as our transit hub, both coming from California and again on the way home.
It turned out to be an ideal place to recover—first from the long international flight, and later from a grueling week deep in the jungles of Gunung Leuser.

Although I usually find big cities less compelling than remote wilderness, Singapore surprised me.

Impressions of Singapore

A First-World Powerhouse in a Tiny Package

Despite being one of the smallest countries in the world, Singapore punches far above its weight:

• A multicultural society, blending Chinese, Malay, Indian, and British influences

• An economic powerhouse with one of the highest per capita GDPs globally

• Impeccably clean and orderly, with efficient public transportation and strict laws

• Amazing food and hotels, from humble hawker stalls to luxury fine dining

Two Different Experiences: Budget and Luxury

On the way to Sumatra, we stayed one night in a no-frills guesthouse near Little India.
The neighborhood had a rougher edge, lined with suspicious massage parlors and bored-looking Filipino workers—a side of Singapore not usually shown in tourist brochures.

On our return from Sumatra, we decided to splurge.
We booked a night at a 5-star hotel, and while pricey for us at the time, it was a great value considering the elegance we received.
The hotel featured fine hardwood architecture, built in an exotic Southeast Asian style with a British colonial flare.
It was the perfect place to relax and recharge before the long journey back to California.

Location of Singapore

China Town,Singapore

Hindu Temple, Singapore

Hindu Temple, Singapore

Hindu Temple, Singapore

What I Missed in Singapore—and Wouldn’t Next Time

Lessons for a Future Visit

Although I spent hours endlessly wandering and exploring Singapore’s streets, there were a few iconic experiences I missed—things I would definitely prioritize on a second visit.

If I returned, I would:

• Search for the wild river otters that are often spotted along the city’s riverbanks.

• Visit the Supertree Grove at Gardens by the Bay at night, when the towering man-made “trees” are illuminated in an otherworldly, Avatar-jungle style glow.

• Stay a night at Marina Bay Sands, the hotel famous for its sky-high infinity pool overlooking the Singapore skyline while sipping a classic Singapore Sling, the city’s signature cocktail, while taking in the views fromthe pool. 

Singapore had far more layers to uncover, and next time, I’d make sure to dive a little deeper into its vibrant, futuristic side.