Seeing Syria-One of the Least Visited and Most Rewarding Places on Earth Before the War

A Glimpse of Syria Before It Changed Forever

March 2005: As part of a larger Middle East journey, my friend and I spent three days in Syria, determined to see as much as possible in our limited time. Even then, we sensed that visiting as American travelers might soon become much more difficult. Looking back, I’m incredibly grateful we went when we had the chance.

Syria was a land of ancient wonders, bustling souks, and rich history, and in just a few days, we tried to absorb as much of its beauty and culture as possible. Though our time there was short, it left a lasting impression—one of a country with an extraordinary past and a people whose warmth and hospitality made the experience unforgettable.

Map of our route in Syria

Syria: A Step Into the Isolated Heart of the Middle East

Syria, an Arab nation bordering Iraq, Lebanon, Turkey, Jordan, and Israel, has long been entangled in conflict over the Golan Heights, a disputed territory that keeps the country in a perpetual state of war with Israel. Though direct fighting is sporadic, tensions remain high, and Syria and Israel are still technically at war.

The country is ruled by Bashar al-Assad, leader of the Ba’ath Party, the same political faction as Saddam Hussein’s regime in Iraq. Assad, like his father before him, has maintained an iron grip on power, eliminating political opposition and enforcing strict state control. As a result, Syria remains internationally sanctioned and largely isolated, with few foreign businesses or visitors. One striking detail I noticed—there was no Coca-Cola, reportedly banned by the government due to its alleged ties to Israel.

Arriving in Syria after visiting Israel, Jordan, and Egypt, where tourists are everywhere, the contrast was stark. Here, foreign travelers were rare, and I could feel the curiosity and appreciation of the Syrian people for our presence. In a country so often cut off from the world, simply being there felt like a meaningful exchange, a brief but eye-opening glimpse into a land so often misunderstood from the outside.

Mural of Bashar Al Assad

Bust of Father of Bashar Al Assad, Hafez Al Assad

The Ubiquity of Assad: A Dictator’s Presence Everywhere

Like all good dictators, Bashar al-Assad’s face was impossible to avoid in Syria. His portrait was everywhere—hanging in shops, plastered on billboards, and displayed in government buildings. It was a constant reminder of his firm grip on power, a tactic long employed by authoritarian rulers to reinforce their presence in daily life.

The Assad family has ruled Syria since 1971, with Bashar taking over in 2000 following the death of his father, Hafez al-Assad. The family and their regime are dominated by the Alawites, a minority sect of Shia Islam, despite the fact that the vast majority of Syrians are Sunni Muslims. This deep sectarian divide has played a significant role in Syria’s history, fueling long-standing tensions and power struggles beneath the surface of Assad’s authoritarian rule.

Entering Syria: A Late-Night Border Crossing

One of the reasons I’ve been able to see so much of the world is my efficiency with time—some might call it rushing, but with a full-time job and limited vacation, I’d rather move fast if it means experiencing more. This trip was no exception. With just one week to cover Jordan, Syria, and Israel, every hour counted.

Our plan was ambitious: cross the Syrian border late at night, drive through the desert to Palmyra, sleep in the car, explore the ruins by morning, then head to Damascus for the night. To make this work, I hired a car and driver to meet us at the border. We took a taxi from Amman and arrived at the border crossing well past midnight.

A Nerve-Wracking Immigration Process

The Jordanian side was a breeze, but entering Syria was another story. Though the border offices were open 24 hours, the Syrian side was eerily empty—just my girlfriend and me in a dimly lit room, alone with a group of large, mustached soldiers whose permanent scowls made them look straight out of a Cold War-era spy film. One even bore an uncanny resemblance to Saddam Hussein.

Despite having Syrian visas pre-approved from their embassy in Washington, D.C., our presence as two American tourists clearly shocked the officers. They took our passports and ushered us into separate interrogation rooms, seating us in tiny child-sized chairs with wooden desks.

The questions came in broken English: Who are you? What do you do? Are you in the military? What is your relationship? They asked the same questions separately and then compared our answers for inconsistencies. The atmosphere was tense, and though the interview lasted only 20 minutes, it felt much longer.

Afterward, we were made to sit and wait while the officials convened to discuss us. Their conversation, spoken in rapid and animated Arabic, caught my attention when I heard “Bush”—a clear reference to then-U.S. President George W. Bush, widely despised in the region. Their tone was aggressive, almost heated, and I couldn’t help but wonder if we were about to be turned away—or worse.

Then, just as suddenly as the tension had built, it died down. We were called back to the counter, our passports stamped without explanation, and with a curt wave, we were allowed to enter Syria. On the other side of the building, our driver was waiting, ready to begin the overnight journey into the heart of one of the world’s most enigmatic countries.

A Midnight Journey to Palmyra

From the border, we had a 4–5-hour drive through the desert to Palmyra, traveling through the Syrian night in near-total darkness. I had planned to sleep, but with our driver’s exhaustion in mind, I stayed awake to keep him engaged in conversation—the last thing we needed was a drowsy driver on these long, desolate roads.

Signs to Baghdad and a Journey Through the Unknown

As we pushed deeper into the desert, I noticed something surreal—highway signs pointing toward Baghdad. Just across the border lay Iraq, a war zone still engulfed in conflict, making it a sobering reminder of where we were.

Despite the late hour, the drive was fascinating. Along the way, we:

• Stopped to visit Bedouin shepherds, who welcomed us warmly by their roadside campfires.
• Paused in small villages, where smiling children ran up to greet us while we sipped on strong Arabic coffee.
• Drove through a dust storm, where for 30 minutes, visibility dropped to near zero, turning the road into a swirling haze of sand.

At one point, we passed something that truly made my heart race—a military convoy transporting Scud missiles, massive rockets loaded onto enormous trucks. The sight was both awe-inspiring and unnerving. Every fiber of me wanted to take a photo, but the risk of being caught—especially after our tense border crossing—was far too great.

As the desert stretched endlessly ahead, the air was thick with both dust and a feeling of stepping into a different world, one few foreigners had ever seen firsthand.

Beduin Sheperds

Beduin Sheperds we met on the side of the road

Village boy

Village kid in front of traditional desert house

Friendly Beduin Man

Palmyra at Dawn: A Lost City Frozen in Time

We arrived in Palmyra in the early morning, greeted by the sight of an ancient city lost in the desert, standing in silent grandeur. With no other visitors in sight, we had the entire site to ourselves, allowing us to take in its haunting beauty in complete solitude.

Palmyra is one of those rare places that leaves you utterly breathless—a place where history stretches back thousands of years, layered with the rise and fall of empires. Once a thriving hub on the Silk Road, it reached its peak around 200 AD under the rule of the renegade Queen Zenobia, who dared to defy Rome. Her ambition led to the city’s downfall when the Romans sacked Palmyra, destroying much of it and leaving behind the ruins we see today.

Now, Roman temples, towering columns, and crumbling archways stand scattered across the vast, empty desert. Looming in the background, a 13th-century Arab castle perches high above the ruins, a reminder of the many civilizations that have left their mark on this legendary city.

Standing there alone in the golden morning light, surrounded by the whispers of history, Palmyra felt like a dream—a city frozen in time, waiting to tell its story.

Palmyra temples

Roman temple ruins with the castle of Fakhr-al-Din al-Maani Castle in background

Me Climbing in the ruins

13th century Fakhr-al-Din al-Maani Castle

Me in Palmyra

Temple Balk

Ancient funeral pyre where bodies were cremated

Syrian Motorbike in palmyra

Damascus: A Night in the World’s Oldest City

After leaving Palmyra, we drove to Damascus, the ancient capital of Syria and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth. We checked into a small guesthouse near the Old City, which became our base for exploring the heart of Damascus on foot.

History and Spirituality at the Umayyad Mosque

One of the most awe-inspiring sites was the Umayyad Mosque, an architectural masterpiece and one of the holiest places in Islam. Though we couldn’t enter, standing outside was enough to feel its immense significance. Inside, it holds the final resting place of John the Baptist’s head, a revered figure in both Christianity and Islam. It is also believed to be the place where Jesus will return at the end of time. Adjacent to the mosque, we visited the tomb of Saladin the Great, the legendary general who defeated the Crusaders and reclaimed Jerusalem for Islam.

A Magical Night in the Old City

As night fell, we wandered the narrow, labyrinthine streets of Old Damascus, where the glow of hanging lanterns, the scent of spices and grilled meats, and the echoes of distant prayers created a truly timeless atmosphere.

For dinner, we found a hidden gem of a restaurant, set in a beautiful open-air courtyard adorned with traditional Syrian lanterns, ornate fountains, and live music. Since we were the only guests, the entire staff focused on us, making it a dining experience unlike any other. The meal itself was an unforgettable feast of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors, easily one of the best I’ve ever had.

Walking back through the ancient streets of Damascus, under the soft glow of old-world lamps, I couldn’t help but feel that we had stepped into a different era—one where history, culture, and legend seamlessly intertwined.

Souq

Friendly Shop Owner in Souq

Souq Scene

Umayyad Mosque meant to be the resting place of John the baptist’s head and a place where Muslims believe Jesus will return someday

Umayyad Mosque

Old city walls

Old city restaraunt 

A Journey to Bosra: Kindness, Ruins, and Living History

After a night in Damascus, we set out in the morning to find a bus to Bosra, a small town near the Jordanian border known for its remarkable Roman ruins. However, we quickly ran into a logistical challenge—we had arrived at the wrong bus station.

Just when we were unsure of what to do, a kind Syrian man came to our aid. Without hesitation, he walked us 30 minutes across the city to the correct station, refusing any compensation for his time. It was a simple yet powerful gesture, one that once again reinforced why I love the Syrian people—their hospitality and warmth are truly unmatched.

Bosra: A Roman City Still Alive

Bosra is a small town, but it holds one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Built entirely from black basalt, this massive structure could hold up to 15,000 spectators and remains astonishingly intact. Standing in its center, I could almost hear the echoes of performances and gladiator battles from centuries past.

Beyond the amphitheater, Bosra is overflowing with Roman ruins, but what makes it even more fascinating is how the ruins are still in use today. Bedouin families have made their homes within the remnants of ancient structures, blending past and present in a way that feels almost surreal.

Walking through the town, photographing both the people and the ruins, I was struck by how seamlessly history is woven into daily life here. It wasn’t just a site of ruins—it was a living, breathing piece of history, where the modern world and the Roman Empire still coexisted in the most unexpected ways.

Roman amphitheatre of Bosrah

Roman amphitheatre of Bosrah

Roman amphitheatre of Bosrah

A Night That Could Have Been: Exploring Bosra’s Roman Amphitheater

Entering Bosra’s Roman amphitheater felt like stepping into a portal through time. To reach the grand stage, we first had to navigate dark, musty tunnels, their shadows stretching endlessly before us. For a moment, it felt as if we might emerge on the other side in the heart of the Roman era, with the roar of an ancient crowd echoing through the stone corridors.

Like so many historic places in Syria, we had the entire amphitheater to ourselves. The eerie silence only added to its mystique, making it easy to imagine gladiator battles, theatrical performances, or political speeches once held here in front of thousands of spectators.

A Missed Opportunity to Sleep in History

Before arriving, I had hoped to spend the night inside the amphitheater, having read that a guesthouse was once located within its walls. My plan was simple—explore the ruins under the cover of night, when historical places feel their most atmospheric and haunting.

However, upon arrival, I discovered the guesthouse had closed. Undeterred, I considered bribing the guard for permission to stay. But when I subtly hinted at the idea, his expression made it clear—he wasn’t thrilled with the concept. With that, I reluctantly abandoned the plan.

Instead, we decided to head back to Amman, Jordan that night, leaving behind the amphitheater with one final look, imagining what it might have been like under the moonlight, empty and timeless.

Roman ruins used by locals as housing in Bosrah

Roman ruins used by locals as housing in Bosrah

Roman ruins used by locals as housing in Bosrah

Bedouin Lady in Bosra

Hitchhiking Back to Amman: The Final Stretch

After exploring Bosra, we made our way to the main road and began hitchhiking toward the Syrian-Jordanian border. Given how few foreign travelers visit this area, we weren’t sure how long we’d have to wait, but before long, a kind driver picked us up, taking us to the border crossing.

Once we crossed back into Jordan, we continued hitchhiking all the way to Amman. The journey was a fitting end to our whirlwind Middle Eastern adventure—riding with generous locals, watching the desert landscape roll by, and reflecting on the incredible places we had seen.