November 2005: The Sunderbans, the largest mangrove forest in the world, forms the delta of the Ganges River’s tributaries. Spanning across both Bangladesh and India, this vast forest is home to a rich array of rare and endangered wildlife, including crocodiles, Ganges River dolphins, and the elusive Bengal tiger. Despite the dense populations of both Bangladesh and India, wildlife continues to thrive in the Sunderbans, largely due to the region’s protection and the reverence that local communities, mostly Hindu and animistic, hold for the area’s creatures.
The people of the Sunderbans share an almost spiritual connection with their environment, viewing the wildlife as sacred rather than as threats. Approximately 100 Bengal tigers live in the region, and each year, at least 50 people are killed by these tigers. However, rather than seeking to eliminate the tigers, the people accept these deaths as the will of the Gods and a reflection of their karma. This unique worldview fosters a harmonious coexistence between humans and nature, despite the inherent dangers.
For generations, the people of the Sunderbans have relied on the forest’s resources—honey, fish, wood, and plants—understanding that the risks are part of the natural balance of life. To minimize the threat of tiger attacks, many locals wear masks on the back of their heads, as tigers are ambush hunters and are less likely to strike if they feel they are being watched. The people also honor Banbibi, the God of the forests, believing she watches over them and ensures their safety in this perilous but sacred land.
Where is the Sunderbans
Location of Sunderbans in India and Bangldesh
As part of a larger trip through eastern India and Bhutan, my friend and I traveled to Bangladesh with the goal of visiting the Sunderbans and hopefully catching a glimpse of one of its legendary man-eating tigers in the wild. To make this happen, I contacted a local company operating boats into the mangroves, convincing them to allow us to sleep overnight in one of the park’s watchtowers. The core area of the Sunderbans, with its densest tiger population, was the prime location for a tiger sighting. However, arranging permission to stay overnight in the watchtower was no easy feat. The park rangers initially hesitated due to concerns about our safety, and the decision was only granted at the last moment, under strict rules and conditions.
We entered Bangladesh from India, having pre-arranged visas. The moment we crossed the border, we were immediately surrounded by curious Bangladeshi men. Everywhere we went, we were greeted with a barrage of questions—”Where are you from? Are you married? How old are you?” This constant attention was a stark contrast to India, where, for the most part, people largely ignored us. Despite the intensity of the attention, it was never aggressive. It always felt genuine and came from a place of kindness and curiosity. In fact, Bangladesh, in all of my travels, ranks as one of the top countries for friendly people.
World’s Friendliest People
Warm Greetings from Locals
Bangladesh is a Muslim country, and the men commonly have long beards and wear Islamic clothing.
Friendly Locals
Train Journey Due to Transportation Strike
I had pre-arranged a taxi to pick us up and take us to meet our boat, but when we arrived, there was no taxi waiting. I thought it would be no problem, as we could easily find another, but the locals informed me that the roads were closed due to a national strike. No vehicles or buses were allowed to travel. I quickly called my fixer from a local payphone, and he apologized, explaining that travel was completely blocked by the strike. I asked him what would happen if we tried to go anyway, and he told me that our vehicle could be set on fire, or we might face violent repercussions.
After some quick thinking, we learned that the trains were still running despite the strike. Although there was still a risk involved since the train service technically wasn’t exempt from the strike, we decided to take the chance. We boarded the train and made our way across the country to Khulna, the city at the entrance to the Sunderbans. On the train, we attracted a lot of attention. Everyone stared at us, watching our every move and smiling, clearly intrigued by our presence.
Train travel
Locals inside the train
Our fellow train travelers
Our fellow train travelers
vender on the train selling food at stops
Village boy
Starting the Boat Journey into the Sunderbans
After spending the night in Khulna, we met our boat for the journey into the Sunderbans. With everything packed and ready, we set off on our 3-day adventure into the heart of the mangrove forest.
Boat we stayed on
Locals watching us from the boat docks
Inside our boat cabin where we slept
Villages that Live Side by Side with Man Eating Tigers
Inside the Sunderbans, the villages are mostly inhabited by Hindu and animistic people who hold a deep belief in forest gods. These communities live a fragile existence, relying heavily on the forest for their survival. Their relationship with nature is incredibly close, as they depend on the mangroves for resources like honey, fish, and wood, while also maintaining a deep spiritual connection with the land around them.
Village children harvesting crabs in the mud
Village children harvesting crabs in the mud
Me showing the village children their photos
Each year, clay figures are crafted to honor the forest gods, particularly Banbibi, and offerings are made as a plea for protection while fishing and harvesting in the forest. Once the ceremony is completed, the clay figures are destroyed, and new ones are created the following year as part of a continuous cycle of reverence and respect for the forest’s spiritual guardians.
Bonbibi Clay figures in the village
Local fishing boats
Fisherman
Fishing boats
The Sunderbans is one of the last refuges for the critically endangered Ganges River dolphin, which faces a rapidly declining population.
Ganges river dolphin swimming by a boat
Into the Core Part of the Sunderbans
I arranged permits for us to enter the park’s core area, a restricted zone where access is limited, and where tigers are most concentrated. We traveled along the river inlets, searching for tigers, but instead encountered crocodiles, monitor lizards, monkeys, and deer—yet no tigers. I hoped that my plan to walk to a nearby watchtower and spend the night there would increase our chances of spotting one.
Lush vegetation
Monitor lizard
Easy to imagine a tiger ready to pounce in this thick jungle setting
Fishing eagle
Macaque
Deer eating seeds at low tide in mangroves
Sleeping Overnight in a Watchtower looking for Tigers
In the evening, we took a small rowboat from our main vessel into a narrow stream, venturing deep into the jungle. Two rangers armed with rifles accompanied us as we rowed to shore. As we entered the stream and were engulfed by the thick jungle, a tiger’s roar echoed through the forest. According to one of the rangers, the tiger was nearby. I felt a surge of excitement, though I knew the dense foliage would make any sighting challenging—especially as night was falling.
We walked a few hundred yards across a field to a watchtower, approximately 75 feet tall, accessible by a spiral staircase. The rangers warned us that we were not permitted to come down at night and would need to relieve ourselves off the side of the tower. They then left us, promising to return for us in the morning.
We spent the night on inflatable mattresses on wooden boards, and I shone my flashlight over the forest below, catching the red reflections of dozens of deer grazing in the grass. Somewhere, I knew, a tiger lurked. I stayed awake, scanning the shadows, but eventually succumbed to sleep.
At sunrise, the rangers returned as promised and led us on a walk to a beach along the ocean. While we didn’t see a tiger, we found a large pugmark in the mud—proof that one had recently passed through. Amazingly, despite the tigers in the area, there were still fishermen on the beach and tree sap gatherers in the surrounding trees. The rangers explained that these men were permitted to be in this part of the park because their activities had a minimal impact on the wildlife.
Rangers escorting us with guns for tiger protection
The watchtower we slept in to spot a tiger in the core area of the park
Tiger pug mark
Man harvesting palm sap
Viper snake
Fisherman
Fisherman
Catch of the day
At the end of our Sunderbans trip, we traveled back upriver by motorboat, and then took a taxi to the India border. The driver who accompanied us for the day refused the tip I offered, insisting that he was duty-bound by God to help us, and that he wasn’t doing it for money. His kindness left a lasting impression on me.
On the Indian side of the border, we met our original taxi driver from Calcutta, who had waited in his car for four days, even though I hadn’t asked him to. He was eager for business and knew that we would eventually return. Despite the unexpected wait, I had no choice but to hire him again for the next leg of our journey.