January 2024: As part of a two-week trip to visit my last five sovereign countries in the world, I began the journey in Barbados with my nephew, Dylan, and friend, Jimmie. Over the course of about three days, we drove around the island in a rental car, eager to explore as much as possible. The highlight of our trip was camping our first night at the abandoned 100-year-old lighthouse at Harrison Point on the northern tip of Barbados.
Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate, and we encountered some engine trouble with our rental car, limiting how much we were able to explore. Despite these challenges, we made the best of our time in Barbados, soaking in the island’s beauty, history, and culture. Here’s the story of our time there.
About Barbados
Barbados is the easternmost island in the West Indies, situated in the southern Caribbean. Once a British colony, it flourished through the cultivation of tobacco and sugar, industries heavily supported by enslaved Africans. Today, Barbados is a sovereign nation with a democratically elected government. The majority of its population is descended from these African slaves.
The island is relatively small and easy to navigate, making it ideal for exploration by car. Famous for its Mount Gay rum, Barbados attracts millions of tourists every year, drawn to its beautiful beaches and vibrant culture. The landscape is predominantly flat, and the island’s most serene beaches can be found along the tranquil Caribbean waters on the western side.
Location of Barbados
We began our trip by flying into the south of the island, picking up our rental car, and driving northward through the capital, Bridgetown. As we made our way up the west coast, which is the most populated part of the island, we stopped at beachside cafes where locals relaxed with rum punches and barbecue, enjoying the laid-back atmosphere and stunning coastal views.
Adjusting to driving in Barbados took some time, especially with the narrow roads and driving on the left side of the street. However, it wasn’t as difficult as I had anticipated. Other drivers were generally patient and helpful. On one occasion, I almost made the mistake of illegally crossing a road that was marked as a turn-only lane. Before I could go any further, a friendly local driver quickly ran out of their car to give me guidance, ensuring I didn’t break the rule. It was a sign of the island’s welcoming, community-oriented spirit.
Local barbecue on the beach
Colonial architecture
Home of American First President George Washington
We made a stop to visit the house where the first American President, George Washington, once stayed when he was 19 in 1751. Washington had traveled to Barbados with his older brother Lawrence, who was suffering from tuberculosis. The hope was that the warm, humid climate would help alleviate Lawrence’s condition, but unfortunately, he passed away from the disease during their stay. The house, now a historical site, provided a glimpse into this chapter of Washington’s early life, highlighting the personal loss he experienced during his time in Barbados. It was a sobering but fascinating stop on our journey.
Home where President Washington Once Lived
One of the bedrooms inside
Military tunnels used as escape routes beneath the home of George Washington for soldiers to escape in the event of a seige
Camping at an Abandoned Lighthouse-Harrison Point
Lighthouses have always fascinated me, especially old ones in remote places, often accompanied by a small house where the lighthouse keeper once lived alone. These structures, once crucial for guiding ships away from dangerous shorelines, are now mostly obsolete, replaced by modern navigation technology. As a result, many of these lighthouses are abandoned and fading into history.
While researching for the trip, I discovered Harrison Point Lighthouse on Google Maps—a 100-year-old lighthouse with a crumbling keeper’s house nearby. There was no gift shop, caretaker, or even a lock on the door, making it open for anyone brave enough to climb its decaying stairs to the top. The location was remote, tucked away in the northern part of Barbados, far from the tourist crowds and resorts. It seemed like the perfect place for us to camp for the night.
We stocked up on rum and pizza in a nearby town before making our way to the lighthouse. After a few locals showed up to party, they eventually left, leaving the area to us. Dylan and Jimmie set up their tents while I decided to sleep in the rental car. As the full moon rose over the ocean, it illuminated the lighthouse’s decaying brickwork, casting an eerie glow across the scene. It was a surreal and peaceful way to end our first day in Barbados.
Local Village Kids hanging Out at the Harrison Point Lighthouse
Harrison Point Lighthouse
Jimmie and my nephew, Dylan at the top of the lighthouse after climbing the rickety stairs
Harrison Point Lighthouse
The old lighthouse keepers ruined home
The forests surrounding the lighthouse were dense and full of forgotten structures, including old, abandoned buildings and the remnants of an American military base. These were fascinating to explore, giving the area an eerie, almost haunted atmosphere. The isolation of the place made it feel like we had stepped back in time.
That night, as I was resting in the old lighthouse keeper’s house, I began to hear strange noises—soft rustling and shuffling sounds coming from around me. At first, it felt unsettling, like something supernatural might be at play. The eerie noises continued, and I thought I had encountered a ghost. I tried to pinpoint the source, but there was nothing in sight.
Then, as I looked down at the ground, I realized the truth. The earth around me was alive with movement. Land crabs, suddenly very active, were emerging from their burrows and scuttling across the ground in every direction. Their movements explained the strange noises, and I was both relieved and amused to discover the source of the mystery. It was a surprising and unique encounter with nature in such a remote and historical setting.
Abandoned American military base now overgrown by jungle
Invasion of African Monkeys
The morning after our eerie night at the lighthouse, we woke to torrential rain that lasted until late morning, further adding to our misfortune. To make matters worse, our rental car refused to start. I called roadside service for help, but the response time was agonizingly slow—five hours of waiting with nothing but the sound of rain and the occasional rustle of wildlife to keep me company.
While I waited for the help that never seemed to come quickly enough, I decided to explore the jungles surrounding the lighthouse. The lush, dense forest was alive with the sounds of birds and rustling leaves, but my exploration took an unexpected turn when I came face-to-face with a troop of wild green monkeys. These monkeys, descendants of those brought over from West Africa on slave ships over 400 years ago, were now fully adapted to life in Barbados. They ran freely through the trees in large groups, seemingly unbothered by the rain or my presence.
The monkeys were bold and curious, cautiously observing me as I passed by. At one point, a few of them advanced toward me, sizing me up with their piercing eyes, causing me to halt in my tracks. I realized that they were not afraid of humans—they had grown accustomed to their presence over centuries of coexistence on the island. Eventually, the troop moved on, and I continued my trek, reflecting on how these monkeys had survived and thrived in this foreign land for generations. It was a surreal experience, and despite the frustrations of the morning, it added a sense of wonder to our time at the lighthouse.
Green monkey
Once we finally managed to get our vehicle restarted, the rain still hadn’t let up. Our plans to visit the remote beaches on the island were thoroughly dampened, so we decided to adjust our itinerary and head to a monkey sanctuary to get a closer look at the green monkeys we had encountered earlier. The sanctuary gave us the opportunity to see these fascinating creatures up close, watching them interact with each other and their surroundings in a more controlled environment. It was a much-needed change of pace from the unpredictable weather and the earlier car troubles.
After leaving the sanctuary, we drove southward, taking a different route down the island’s eastern side. The Atlantic coast is a stark contrast to the calm, tourist-friendly west coast. With its wind-swept beaches and powerful surf, the eastern side of Barbados felt wild and untamed. The landscape was hillier, more rugged, and much less developed. The towns were sparse, and the coastline looked as though it had been shaped by centuries of battering winds and waves. I found the east coast to be far more desolate and raw, yet it had a certain beauty to it that I couldn’t shake. It became my favorite side of the island.
As we drove along the coast, the wind picked up, whipping through the trees and crashing against the rocks at the water’s edge. Despite the rain, the air was fresh, and I could almost feel the energy of the ocean filling the air. It was a welcome contrast to the busy west coast, and we took our time, stopping at a few scenic overlooks to take in the view. The Atlantic coast felt like a place that hadn’t been touched by tourism—an untouched slice of Barbados where nature still reigned supreme.
My nephew rock climbing on a hige boulder on the wild eastern Atlantic Coast
We ended up staying the night in Bridgetown, at a surprisingly affordable apartment that overlooked the beach and was conveniently close to the airport. The place far exceeded our expectations, offering a great view and being situated near all the beachside dining spots in Bridgetown. The apartment’s owner, Earl Maynard, was a fascinating man in his 80s with an incredible life story. He shared stories from his youth, revealing how he had once been a bodybuilder in the movie business. In fact, he had been Mr. Universe in the 1950s and had placed third in the Mr. Olympia competition. His passion for fitness and his rich history in the industry made for some unforgettable conversation.
However, our stay didn’t come without a few surprises. The next morning, we woke up to a bizarre invasion of worms in the apartment. It was a strange and slightly unsettling way to start the day, but we did our best to pack up and leave quickly. We had an early morning flight to catch, so we gathered our things and headed to the airport for our next destination—Grenada. As we boarded the Caribbean Airlines flight, I couldn’t help but reflect on our time in Barbados, despite the rain and challenges, and looked forward to the next chapter of our adventure.