January 2024: Barbados – A Rocky but Memorable Start

The Final Push to Visit Every Country

As part of a two-week trip to visit my last five sovereign countries in the world, I began the journey in Barbados with my nephew, Dylan, and my friend, Jimmie. Over three days, we rented a car and set out to explore as much of the island as possible.

Camping at Harrison Point Lighthouse

The highlight of our time was camping on our first night at the abandoned, 100-year-old lighthouse at Harrison Point, perched on the northern tip of Barbados. The crashing waves, salty air, and eerie solitude of the old lighthouse made for a surreal and unforgettable experience.

Roadblocks and Breakdowns

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate, and we ran into engine trouble with our rental car, which limited how much of the island we could actually explore. Still, we made the best of it—rolling with the setbacks and leaning into the laid-back Caribbean pace of life.

Embracing the Island’s Charm

Despite the challenges, Barbados won us over with its natural beauty, colonial history, and vibrant culture. From windswept coasts to lively markets, the island had plenty to offer—even if we only scratched the surface.

Barbados: Gateway to the Eastern Caribbean

A Colonial Past

Barbados is the easternmost island in the West Indies, situated in the southern Caribbean. Once a British colony, it flourished through the cultivation of tobacco and sugar—industries built on the forced labor of African slaves. Today, Barbados is a proud sovereign nation with a democratically elected government, and the majority of its people are descended from those who endured slavery.

Easy to Explore

At just 166 square miles, the island is relatively small and easy to navigate—perfect for road-tripping in a rental car. Every corner can be reached in under a few hours, making it possible to see a wide range of landscapes, towns, and coastal views within a short stay.

Rum, Beaches, and Culture

Barbados is most famously home to Mount Gay rum, considered the oldest rum distillery in the world. Alongside its rich cultural history, the island attracts millions of visitors each year who come for its laid-back lifestyle, music, and warm hospitality.

Where Land Meets Sea

The landscape is predominantly flat, yet diverse. The most serene beaches are found along the island’s western shore, where calm Caribbean waters lap gently against white sand—perfect for swimming and relaxation. On the eastern Atlantic-facing side, however, rugged cliffs and pounding surf reveal a wilder, more untamed side of Barbados.

Location of Barbados

First Impressions of Barbados

Journey North from Bridgetown

We began our trip by flying into the south of the island, picking up our rental car, and heading northward through the capital, Bridgetown. As we made our way up the bustling west coast—the island’s most populated stretch—we stopped at beachside cafés where locals lounged with rum punches and plates of barbecue. The relaxed vibe, paired with stunning coastal views, set the tone for our time on the island.

Learning to Drive the Bajan Way

Adjusting to driving in Barbados took some time. The roads are narrow, and traffic flows on the left side of the street, but the experience wasn’t as intimidating as I had anticipated. Most drivers were patient and helpful, embodying the island’s easygoing spirit.

On one occasion, I nearly made the mistake of crossing illegally from a turn-only lane. Before I could go any further, a friendly local driver jumped out of their car to guide me, making sure I didn’t get into trouble. It was a simple but memorable gesture—proof of Barbados’ welcoming, community-oriented culture.

Local barbecue on the beach

Colonial architecture

A Presidential Connection

George Washington House

Along our journey, we made a stop at the house where the first American President, George Washington, once stayed in 1751, when he was just 19 years old. Washington had traveled to Barbados with his older brother, Lawrence, who was suffering from tuberculosis.

A Visit Marked by Loss

The hope was that the island’s warm, humid climate would ease Lawrence’s illness. Sadly, despite the change in environment, he passed away from the disease during their stay. The house, now preserved as a historical site, offered a window into this lesser-known chapter of Washington’s youth—an experience marked by personal tragedy.

A Fascinating Stop

Visiting the home was both sobering and fascinating, a reminder that even iconic figures like Washington had deeply human experiences shaped by loss and uncertainty. It added a surprising historical depth to our exploration of the island.

Home where President Washington Once Lived

One of the bedrooms inside

Military tunnels used as escape routes beneath the home of George Washington for soldiers to escape in the event of a seige 

A Night at Harrison Point Lighthouse

Fascination with Forgotten Beacons

Lighthouses have always fascinated me—especially the old, remote ones often paired with a small keeper’s house where someone once lived in solitude. Once essential for guiding ships away from dangerous reefs, most have now been made obsolete by modern navigation technology. Many stand abandoned, slowly crumbling into history.

Discovering Harrison Point

While planning the trip, I stumbled across Harrison Point Lighthouse on Google Maps—a 100-year-old relic with a decaying keeper’s house nearby. Unlike tourist attractions, there was no caretaker, no gift shop, not even a lock on the door. Anyone willing could climb its rusting staircase to the top. Tucked away on the far northern tip of Barbados, far from resorts and crowds, it seemed like the perfect place to camp.

Rum, Pizza, and Moonlight

Before heading out, we stocked up on rum and pizza in a nearby town. A few curious locals showed up to party but left after a while, leaving the lighthouse entirely to us. Dylan and Jimmie pitched their tents while I opted to sleep in the rental car.

A Surreal Campout

That night, the full moon rose over the ocean, illuminating the weathered brick tower. Its eerie glow gave the scene an almost cinematic quality—part ghost story, part dreamscape. It was a surreal, peaceful way to end our first day in Barbados, camping beside a forgotten beacon of the past.

Local Village Kids hanging Out at the Harrison Point Lighthouse

Harrison Point Lighthouse

Jimmie and my nephew, Dylan at the top of the lighthouse after climbing the rickety stairs 

Harrison Point Lighthouse at night

The old lighthouse keepers ruined home

Exploring the Forgotten Grounds

Remnants of the Past

The forests surrounding Harrison Point Lighthouse were dense and overgrown, concealing forgotten remnants of history. Scattered among the trees were crumbling buildings and the remains of an old American military base, relics slowly being reclaimed by the jungle. Exploring them gave the place an eerie, almost haunted quality, as if we had stepped back in time.

Strange Noises in the Night

That night, I decided to rest inside the decaying keeper’s house. As darkness settled, the isolation of the place grew heavier, and soon I began to hear unsettling sounds—soft rustling, shuffling movements that seemed to come from all around me. At first, I couldn’t shake the feeling that something supernatural might be at play.

The Land Crabs Reveal Themselves

For several tense minutes, the noises continued, echoing in the shadows. Then, as I looked closer at the ground, the mystery revealed itself. The earth was alive with movement—dozens of land crabs were crawling out of their burrows, scuttling across the floorboards and the ground in every direction. What I had mistaken for ghosts turned out to be a nightly ritual of nature.

An Unforgettable Encounter

Relieved—and slightly amused—I realized the source of the haunting sounds. Instead of ghosts, it was the local wildlife reminding me that this place, though abandoned by people, was far from empty. It was a surreal and fitting encounter in such a remote, historical setting, blending the eerie atmosphere of the lighthouse with the unexpected quirks of island life.

Abandoned American military base now overgrown by jungle

A Rain-Soaked Morning

Car Trouble at Harrison Point

The morning after our eerie night at the lighthouse, we woke to torrential rain that hammered down until late morning. To make matters worse, our rental car refused to start. I called roadside service for help, but the wait stretched on endlessly—five long hours with nothing but the pounding rain and the rustle of jungle life around us.

Exploring While Waiting

With time to kill, I set off to explore the lush forest that surrounded Harrison Point. The jungle was alive despite the storm—birds called from the canopy, and the leaves hissed under the constant rainfall. What began as a simple walk quickly turned into one of the most unexpected encounters of the trip.

Face-to-Face with Green Monkeys

Out of nowhere, I found myself staring at a troop of wild green monkeys. These animals are not native to Barbados—they are descendants of monkeys brought over from West Africa on slave ships more than 400 years ago. Over the centuries, they’ve adapted perfectly to island life, thriving in the forests and villages of Barbados.

The troop moved with confidence, leaping through the trees and even advancing toward me at one point. Their piercing eyes studied me intently, and I froze, unsure of how bold they might be. It quickly became clear that these monkeys were not intimidated by humans. They had lived alongside people for generations and had no reason to fear me.

Wonder in the Waiting

Eventually, the monkeys lost interest and moved on, disappearing into the dripping green canopy. I continued my trek through the wet jungle, reflecting on the strange resilience of these creatures—transplanted across the ocean centuries ago, yet now thriving as part of the island’s fabric.

Despite the frustrations of that soggy morning, the encounter turned an otherwise miserable wait into something unforgettable, reminding me once again that travel’s best moments often arrive unplanned.

Green monkey

Adjusting Plans in the Rain

A Visit to the Monkey Sanctuary

Once we finally managed to get our vehicle restarted, the rain still hadn’t let up. Our plans to visit the remote beaches on the island were thoroughly dampened, so we adjusted our itinerary and headed to a monkey sanctuary. After our wild encounter at the lighthouse, this gave us the chance to observe the green monkeys up close, watching them play, squabble, and interact in a more controlled setting. It was a welcome change of pace after the long morning of frustrations.

Discovering the East Coast

A Stark Contrast

Leaving the sanctuary behind, we drove southward, taking the eastern route down the island. The Atlantic coast was nothing like the calm, postcard-perfect beaches of the west. Here, wind-swept shores met powerful surf, the landscape rugged and untamed. Sparse towns dotted the coastline, and the scenery felt raw and desolate, yet undeniably beautiful.

Wild Energy of the Atlantic

As we wound our way along the coast, the wind picked up, rattling the trees and sending waves crashing against the black rocks. Even in the rain, the air felt alive with the ocean’s energy. We pulled over at a few scenic overlooks to soak in the views, taking our time despite the weather.

The Atlantic coast quickly became my favorite part of Barbados—an untouched slice of the island where nature still reigned supreme, far removed from the polished resorts of the west.

My nephew rock climbing on a hige boulder on the wild eastern Atlantic Coast

A Night in Bridgetown

A Legendary Body Building Host

We ended our Barbados adventure with a night in Bridgetown, staying at a surprisingly affordable apartment that overlooked the beach and sat just minutes from the airport, and only a few miles from all the local bars and restaurants. The place far exceeded our expectations—not only for its prime location near beachside dining spots, but also because of its owner, Earl Maynard.

Earl, well into his 80s, had a larger-than-life personality and was full of stories from an extraordinary life. Once a bodybuilder, he had earned the title of Mr. Universe in the 1950s and even placed third in the prestigious Mr. Olympia competition. Beyond bodybuilding, he stepped into the spotlight of both the wrestling and film worlds. Earl wrestled professionally in the WWWF (the early WWE) and went on to star in movies like Mandingo and The Sword and the Sorcerer. He even recounted his interactions with the great Arnold Schwarzenegger, who like Earl, had made the leap from bodybuilding into Hollywood. Sitting with him, listening to tales of his glory days, was an experience in itself.

A Surprising Morning

But not everything went as smoothly. The next morning, we woke up to a bizarre sight—worms had hatched and somehow invaded the apartment. It was strange and slightly unsettling.

We packed quickly, shaking off the odd encounter, and made our way to the airport. Caribbean Airlines would carry us to our next destination—Grenada.